Perfume Reviews

Reviews by teardrop

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Total Reviews: 711

Jungle Jezebel by Sarah Baker Perfumes

Well, this is certainly a weird one, at least in the opening phase. First out of the gate is an unmistakable burst of good old-fashioned pink bubblegum, supported by a fruity accord that reads as mainly banana, although there are dark hints of civet lurking in the background. Tuberose hoves into view, & then twenty minutes in, the bubblegum races off into the distance, leaving room for what feels for all the world like an old-school animalic chypre. lt remains warm, sweet & fruity rather than dirty, similar in feel to Schiaparelli's Shocking, although it also reminds me of something else that l can't quite figure out. Four hours in, it feels more like a fruity floriental, with creamy sandalwood, vanilla & tonka, but the civet continues to weave in & out for the duration. The projection is moderate rather than overpowering, & it lasts around twelve hours before fading out.

This is not one l would have chosen to try, had l not been sent it as a freebie with a purchase. And as l suspected, it's really not my style, but it's certainly interesting...
22nd September, 2020

Clash : Chlorophyll Gardenia by Comme des Garçons

l get a delightful dose of rhubarb in the opening, of the raw, unsweetened kind. lt makes me smile, as it's a relatively unusual note in perfumery, & always reminds me of the rhubarb my dad used to grow in the garden when l was a child. lt's supported here by a crisp, green note of galbanum, which doesn't become too sharp or strident as it sometimes does on my skin. There's spearmint here too, & a faint rubber/vinyl note, & then twenty minutes in l begin to detect a creamy gardenia beneath it all. After an hour the gardenia takes centre stage, & it's wonderfully realistic, projecting very nicely. A little later, the gardenia is joined by an ozonic/marine note, & three hours in there's a sweeter fruity aspect. Four hours in it settles very close to the skin, but it's still going as a soft, creamy floral with white musk after seven hours.

l dabbed this rather than spraying, as l wasn't sure if l'd like it. l'll need to try spraying it to see if that improves the performance, but l think this would be a lovely fragrance for spring or early summer. Rather than clashing, l think these notes work very well together, the green notes adding a cooling effect to what can sometimes be a rather cloying floral when the heat is on. Thumbs up!
15th September, 2020

Musc Monoï by Nicolaï

This is an interesting exercise in noticing the difference between dabbing & spraying. l transferred the contents of the dabber vial into a spray atomiser before applying this for the first time. The few drops that landed on my skin during the transfer process smelled strongly of milky coconut suntan lotion & ocean breeze, very much like Ensoleille Moi by Andre Gas, one that l own & love. However, spraying it on skin produces a quite different impression. l clearly smell each of the opening citrus notes of neroli, lemon & petitgrain, & these last close to an hour rather than being fleeting, as these notes often are. Over that first hour, the citrus slowly takes on a sweet, slightly powdery-vanillary quality, rather like lemon sherbet or perhaps lemon drizzle cake. After this, some faint floral notes appear, but two hours in the scent has almost disappeared! l have to stick my nose right onto my skin to catch a whiff of calone, white florals & white musk, with just a trace of coconut & maybe some sandalwood. There's the faintest whiff of animalic musk at the four hour mark, but no monoi, & at this point it's barely there.

On paper, the notes list reads almost like my idea of the perfect summer scent, & l was quite excited to try this one. Sadly, although what l smell is very pleasant, l confess to being disappointed with its performance, hence the neutral rating.
15th September, 2020
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Lilylang by Sylvaine Delacourte

This opens with bergamot, pink pepper & a white floral accord laid over a lot of white musk. l don't get any lime or mandarin. lt quickly goes from crisp & clean to a darker, woody-spicy feel. The floral notes aren't easy to pick out until around two hours in, & they're mostly dominated by the tropical note of ylang ylang. As it dries down, l increasingly detect the scent of hot skin drenched in milky suntan lotion, minus the coconut that's usually associated with beachy fragrances. Later on, there's a mineral note which could be interpreted as sand, & seven hours in it's still going softly.

l expected more of a Big White Floral here, but the jasmine & tuberose don't stand out enough to put it into this category. lt is a nice beachy perfume though, & the woody notes make it somewhat similar to Bronze Goddess. l think it would work well in cooler weather, too.
26th July, 2020

Champaca Supercritique by Les Eaux Primordiales

Again, the notes list for this one seems to vary depending on where you look:

Basenotes: blackcurrant, jasmine, champaca, labdanum.

Fragrantica: plum, champaca, magnolia, ylang ylang, cinnamon, cloves, labdanum, orris.

For me the Fragrantica list seems most accurate. l get a fruity opening that lacks the tartness of blackcurrant, along with a spicy accord dominated by cinnamon, as well as woods. The fruit fades around thirty minutes in, & then there's a soft heart of white & yellow flowers, mostly ylang ylang. Just when l'm really enjoying it though, it fades very close to the skin, barely detectable at the four hour mark.

l was hoping for something far richer & more powerful here, & although it's not unpleasant, the performance is a letdown. l've now tried two from this house, & found both of them disappointing, so l don't plan on trying any more.
26th July, 2020

Gardénia Supercritique by Les Eaux Primordiales

Listed notes for this one seem to vary depending on where you look. The Basenotes Directory lists peach, pear, gardenia & warm milk. Fragrantica replaces the warm milk with woody & earthy notes, while Les Senteurs adds patchouli & jasmine.

l'm glad l checked the Les Senteurs listing, because when l first sprayed this l thought my sample must have been mis-labelled. This is far more of a woody oriental than a floral, & l definitely smell patchouli here. There is a little fruitiness after a few moments, & l sense a white floral accord struggling to make its presence felt, but... NO GARDENIA! The fruit slowly fades, there's a lactonic aspect in the heart, but three hours in it's very soft & there's been no further development. After six hours, it's barely there.

Those of you who know how much l adore gardenia will understand my disappointment with this one. lt's a pleasant enough perfume, but it irritates me no end when a perfume house tries to con me into expecting gardenia where there is none. That crime gets a firm thumbs down from me.
26th July, 2020

Totally White / 126 by Parle Moi de Parfum

The strongest impression here is of lilac, but there's also a prominent note of new-mown grass. l don't really get hawthorn, but there is a similarity with Dame Perfumerie's Soliflore Wisteria. l think this might be a little cloying if overapplied, but a couple of sprays on my arm give off a nice little cloud of spring floral loveliness. Two hours in it's a little softer, but otherwise there's no real development except for perhaps some white musk in the base. It's still going after ten hours.

l'm not sure l'd reach for this all that often, as lilac is something l prefer to smell "in the wild" rather than on me, & l was hoping for more of the earthiness of hawthorn here. But if you're looking for a lilac soliflore, l think this is really well done & worth a try.
26th July, 2020

Tuberose & Moss by Rogue Perfumery

For me this is a sweet tuberose with a slightly "turned" vibe in the initial phase, & a woody cedar base. l don't detect any citrus until around forty-five minutes in, & just after this the moss makes a brief appearance. After a couple of hours, it's a crisp, yet still sweet white floral, quite pretty & feminine. Seven hours in it's close to the skin, & there's a creamy vanilla in the base.

l like this one ok, but it doesn't compare to what l think of as reference tuberose perfumes like Carnal Flower, Beyond Love or Fracas. l guess l like my tuberose to pack more of a punch!
17th July, 2020

Flora & Fauna by Rogue Perfumery

ln the beginning, this is a retro-style fruity chypre with just enough animalics to make it interesting. Bergamot can sometimes come off as sharp for me, but here's it's soft & rounded, aided perhaps by the "dried apricot" note. The amber & leather are apparent early on as well, & fifteen minutes in after the fruit has faded, moss & labdanum come into play. After thirty minutes, the labdanum takes centre stage, & it's glorious: warm, smooth & rich, still dominating the drydown several hours later. I get a whiff of a soapy, clean musk thirteen hours in as it's fading.

lt's a long time since l tried Mitsouko, but from memory l can see a distant relationship here. Chypres are not my usual style, but this one is very well done, quite an achievement considering it's all-natural. And l adore that labdanummmmm...
17th July, 2020

Ishtar by Rogue Perfumery

A sparkling, nose-tingling, piney-lemony frankincense, with a pinch of cinnamon & the bitterness of myrrh. lt's kind of metallic, not soapy at all to my nose, & l'd say it leans masculine. One of the reviews makes much of the sweetness here, but l don't really get that, although the bitter sharpness recedes over the first hour, & then it's more smooth & woody. l get a whiff of lily if l put nose to skin, but otherwise this note is not obvious to me. Four hours in there's just a slight sweetness from the benzoin, & later l swear l get a note of smoky tobacco. It all lasts a good ten hours before fading out.

l agree with others here that this is a summer incense, in the same ballpark as Passage d'Enfer, but less floral. lt's not a love for me, but certainly an interesting & different take on incense.
17th July, 2020

Jasmin Antique by Rogue Perfumery

For the first fifteen minutes, this is a fruity jasmine with just a touch of indole, but not quite enough to produce that "magic marker/acetone" scent that can be so off-putting to some, & seems more present in jasmine sambac. After this, it settles into the softer, yet deeper & more floral jasmine grandiflorum that l adore. Over the next hour, a hint of powdery vanilla sweetness develops, but it's not overly sweet, & the projection is excellent. lt continues in this fashion, slowly fading close to the skin, but seven hours in it's still very much there if l put nose to skin. l should mention that l was doing vigorous housework on a warm & humid day when l tried this, so it may have burned off quicker than it might have done otherwise. l don't get any clove or musk here, but as l've said before elsewhere, l may be anosmic to certain types of musk.

l agree with others here that this is a top-notch reference jasmine, especially of the grandiflorum variety. l'm not sure it'll knock Jasmin Full off it's perch as my favourite ever jasmine fragrance, but it's pretty darned close...
17th July, 2020

India Café by Neil Morris Fragrances

The opening of this one is similar to Midnight at the Crossroads Cafe, minus the patchouli. It has that same chocolatey, spiced coffee, but the amber adds some sweetness, & there's also a slightly savoury quality to it. A faint incense adds a little smokiness thirty minutes in, but the star of this show is a deliciously nutty labdanum, lightly powdery, which slowly becomes richer & more intense. Six hours in it begins to fade, still going very softly after nine hours.

That wonderful labdanum note pushed this one from a "like" to a "love" for me, & put it firmly on my list of favourites from this house.
14th June, 2020

Midnight At The Crossroads Café by Neil Morris Fragrances

Coffee with a hint of chocolate & spices is the dominant note over the first hour, then there's a slight fruitiness, followed by smoke & oakmoss. Four hours in, there's an almost disturbingly realistic accord of animal fur, like a physical presence on my skin. It's not at all filthy, but incredibly sensual in the way that L'Ombre Fauve is to me, & I can't stop huffing my arm at this point. Seven hours in this impression remains, slowly fading, & after twelve hours there's still a faint white musk in the base.

This one is a very pleasant surprise, & will definitely be joining my list of favourites from this house. I'd say it's certainly unisex, in fact I think it would be irresistible on a man...
14th June, 2020
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Gotham by Neil Morris Fragrances

I get a sharp, peppery opening underpinned by a salty leather, with just a whiff of the fruity note listed as yuzu. An inky narcissus begins to bloom thirty minutes in, & after an hour a beautiful rose, making this much more intensely floral than I expected. Three hours in, there's a softly animalic element, & later on I distinctly smell sandalwood, although it's not listed. I don't get any amber/labdanum, but it's still going softly after eight hours.

With a name like "Gotham", I thought this would have a much darker, almost menacing feel, & be somehow more traditionally masculine. But far from suggesting "bat cave" to me, it's more of an English country garden, filled with rambling roses & crammed with narcissi. And all the more lovely for it.
14th June, 2020

Ambra Obscura by Neil Morris Fragrances

First of all, the juice in this sample vial is particularly thick, dark & oily, & the sprayer must be partially blocked because this stuff went everywhere when I sprayed it on my arm! I don't know if that's normal for this fragrance, or whether this is a very old sample and/or its ingredients are especially prone to this kind of ageing.

It's pretty much a straight-up amber, with the merest trace of patchouli & woods, & very soft. Over the first couple of hours, the patchouli fades & a rich vanilla takes its place, producing a scent rather like sweetened hot milk. It's not overly sweet though, & although the projection is low, it's still present on my skin after seven hours.

All in all a nice, uncomplicated amber that's worth a try if you can get a decent sample!
09th June, 2020

Scrumptious by Neil Morris Fragrances

I get a whiff of amber, & then a lot of sticky, overripe fruit: mostly pear along with bergamot. Within fifteen minutes it gets even sweeter, literally as if someone poured an entire bowl of sugar over the fruit. One hour in it becomes more bearable as the sugary fruit fades & some vaguely floral notes come into play, underpinned by an ambery base. Four hours in, it fades very close to the skin, finally disappearing after ten hours.

There are similarities with the previously sampled Vanille d'Ete here, but where I found that one quite wearable (if unexciting), this is way too sweet & fruity for my taste. A definite no from me.
09th June, 2020

Earthtones #5 : Tropical Lagoon by Neil Morris Fragrances

This opens with juicy, tropical fruit, mostly pineapple to my nose, along with coconut. Over the first couple of hours the fruit fades, & it becomes more of a creamy-lactonic tropical floral with a suntan lotion vibe. I don't get anything aquatic or marine-like here; more of a warm sand kind of feel. Four hours in there's vanilla in the base, & after seven hours it's still humming along nicely.

This isn't a sophisticated fragrance, but it's a fun & cheerful beachy scent, youthful & sweet, & would make a great mood lifter when one is longing for a tropical vacation. It reminds me quite a bit of Golden Paradise by Hawaiian Tropic, without the ambery base. I already own a bottle of that one, but I think I could make room in my wardrobe for both.
09th June, 2020

Midnight Flower by Neil Morris Fragrances

This opens with a mix of strong aldehydes & orange peel, swiftly followed by indolic jasmine. The notes list mentions "melati blossom", which apparently means the unopened buds of jasmine sambac in Javanese, so that explains what I'm smelling here. The fragrance develops into a thick, sweet tropical floral underpinned with patchouli & an animalic note, & slowly smooths out into a more milky, lactonic floral. Four hours in it's settled very close to the skin, there's a faint sandalwood in the base, & after eight hours it's almost faded out.

I enjoyed the drydown of this one, but that first hour was rather suffocatingly dense on a warm day. I might prefer it in cooler weather...
09th June, 2020

Seaflower by Neil Morris Fragrances

This opens as another fruity floral, but there's a cold, green & almost metallic vibe to this one. Two hours in, it's morphed into a milky & warmer floral, with the "sand accord" lending a suntan lotion-like feel. It doesn't exactly say "sea" to me, though. Six hours in, it's very close to the skin, but still detectable after twelve hours.

The second phase here is pleasant, but those first two hours are really not my cup of tea.
09th June, 2020

Coral by Neil Morris Fragrances

Bright, sweet, fruity air freshener. One of the reviews here mentions that it has the smell of a candle store, & I totally get that. I even smell the wax used to make the candles, increasingly so as it dries down. Three hours in, the base is similar to that of Dreaming California, but this is more cloyingly fruity, & far less pleasant, still going softly after eight hours.
09th June, 2020

Dreaming California by Neil Morris Fragrances

This opens as a sunny, cheerful fruity floral with a hint of ocean breeze. I smell pear here, although it's not listed. After an hour, a vanilla sweetness underlies the fruit, & three hours in when the juicy fruit fades, warm, smooth floral notes come to the fore. At the six hour mark, the base is jasmine, vanilla & sandalwood, putting me in mind very much of my beloved Samsara! It all begins to fade from here..

There is nothing objectionable about this one, but I'm not hugely fond of fruity fragrances, & I already have a good stock of Samsara to draw on whenever I need a jasmine & sandalwood hit.
09th June, 2020

Musk Eau de Toilette by Alyssa Ashley

EDT:

My first impression is that this is pretty much a straight-up clean musk, but it does have subtle nuances. In the beginning these nuances are overpowered by a kind of "starched white linen" accord, like freshly-washed laundry being ironed. After ten minutes or so however, I pick up a hint of baby powder, some florals, perhaps rose, & a trace of citrus. Two hours in, the laundry accord fades away, & the scent slowly sweetens into a powdery vanilla base. The projection opens strongly, & quickly fades close to the skin, but it's still going softly after twenty hours.

I'm sure this one has been reformulated since its release, but I was still hoping for something more sensual & suggestive of musky skin. It's possible that I'm anosmic to some of the musks being used here, but for me it would make a good "office scent", or something to wear after a bath when you just want to feel clean. I might try using it as a linen spray.

Perfume oil:

This has the same clean musk/fresh laundry/baby powder accord as the EDT, but it's softer, less sharp, & the citrus & floral notes are far less apparent. Ninety minutes in, there's a cool, crisp, mineral & slightly floral feel, but from here it's very soft indeed. Around the three-hour mark I get a sweet, almost coconutty vanilla, but six hours in it's barely there.

I know that oils tend to wear much closer to the skin than alcohol-based fragrances, but I expected better longevity than this. For that reason, I think I prefer the EDT.
08th June, 2020

White Musk Eau de Parfum by Alyssa Ashley

This review is for the perfume oil:

This one is warmer, more full-bodied & floral than the Musk version, & more like the musks that I remember from the seventies/eighties, though still not as sensual/animalic. It has that same clean musk with an air of fresh laundry, but doesn't have the sharpness or the powderiness of Musk. Hints of ylang ylang & jasmine push it more into feminine territory, & I don't really get the bergamot or tarragon, although these might be more apparent in the EDP. It's very soft & smooth, & four hours in it's sweeter, with a touch of vanilla. Seven hours in it's faded so close to the skin as to be barely perceptible, but when I move around & my body warms up I still get the odd waft.

Despite the lacklustre performance, I prefer the scent of this one to Musk, & I find myself wishing I'd bought the EDP of this one instead when I had the chance...
08th June, 2020

Soliflore Mimosa by Dame Perfumery

Once again ClaireV nails it, with her comparison of this one to vegetable oil, along with cucumber & puffs of pollen. If this sounds odd, it is, but over the first hour that oiliness recedes, & a wonderful effect takes place: it's that indefinable smell when you open the windows one morning & realise spring has arrived. The chill has gone from the air, buds are blooming, grass is growing, & the earth is beginning to warm in the sun. If this were a colour, it would be golden yellow, with touches of pale green & purple. It projects beautifully, before settling closer to the skin around four hours in, & at this point there's a fruitiness to the scent. It's still going softly after ten hours.

There's an innocence to this fragrance; the mimosa note uncorrupted as opposed to perfumes like Une Fleur de Cassie (which I love, BTW) which give it a dirtier, more earthy character. It's really quite lovely, & I cannot help but fall under the spell of a scent that evokes my favourite season so perfectly.
08th June, 2020

Soliflore Narcissus by Dame Perfumery

ClaireV's review of this one is spot on, it really does smell like bathroom cleaner/disinfectant/antiseptic during the initial phase, & this effect is indeed more pronounced when sniffed up close. There's a hefty dose of inky indole here, along with a green, stemmy floral that reminds me a lot of sambac jasmine. Two hours in it calms down into a sweeter, cleaner & lightly powdery floral, suggesting nectar & pollen. Later still, there's a hint of coconut, & four hours in it's very soft, fading out after seven hours.

This one might be a little too intense for me, & I think I prefer this note as part of a composition, but it is strangely compelling. I'm glad to have experienced it at least.
08th June, 2020

Soliflore Wisteria by Dame Perfumery

I don't recall ever experiencing the scent of wisteria, although it does grow around here, so I can't comment on this perfume's resemblance to the real thing. It's hard to describe, but I'd say it's a spicy, earthy spring floral with a fuzzy texture, much like mimosa, but with more of a bitter/green element. It starts out quite strong, but softens around three hours in, still going softly after twelve hours.

There's no real development here - it is a soliflore, after all - but the quality shines through, & I'd recommend this one highly to anyone who loves green florals.
08th June, 2020

Chilehead by Dame Perfumery

The opening is rather herbal-medicinal for me, dominated by a celery-like vetiver, & a fiery pepper, instead of chillis (note that its name is Chile, like the country, rather than chilli, as in chilli peppers). A procession of notes jump out at me in quick succession: bergamot, lime, neroli, wormwood, thyme & patchouli. It's an interesting mix of warm & cool notes, but then suddenly, after only ten minutes, a strong & animalic accord of civet & cumin emerges, & proceeds to block out everything else. It's the same "wall of filth" that I experienced with Papillon's Salome, obliterating all of the floral notes that others spoke of, & I wonder if there's an ingredient common to both of these fragrances that I'm hyperosmic to. This accord lasts a good five hours before it begins to calm down, & there's a whiff of smoke & then moss later on. The projection is thankfully quite low, but it's still going steady eighteen hours in.

Other reviews I've read led me to expect more of what I experienced in those first ten minutes, & not the degree of skank that I got for the rest of the duration. It's certainly unique, & I'd recommend it to those interested in the strange & unusual, but I don't think I'll be wearing this again.
08th June, 2020

Chocolate Perfume Oil by Dame Perfumery

Yep, this is chocolate alright. Starting off like the kind of chocolate syrup you find on an ice cream sundae, moving through Lindor milk chocolate truffles, & finally settling into Palmer's Cocoa Butter lotion. Chocolate is the only listed note, & that really is all I get, but it's very realistic, smooth & mellow. Nothing dusty, dry or artificial-smelling here. The projection is low to moderate, & thirteen hours in it's still humming along.

This sample was a freebie sent with an order, & it's not something I would usually wish to smell of. It's very high quality though, & I might try some layering experiments with it...
08th June, 2020

Night Star by Scents of Time

This begins as an aldehydic floral with iris, heliotrope & an unusually realistic hawthorn note. I also sense hyacinth here, although it's not listed. Half an hour in it's a little sweeter, with vanilla & sweet violet joining the hawthorn to produce a rather lovely spring floral accord. Other reviews I've come across make much of the rose note in this fragrance, but that's one thing that I don't get here at all. The projection is low to moderate, & five hours in, there's little further development except for a faint whiff of sandalwood in the base, but it's still detectable on my skin after twenty hours. Outstanding tenacity for something so delicate!

There's a coldness to this scent, despite the sweetness, evoking for me a bunch of purple flowers dusted with snow. It's quite delightful, & perfect for springtime.
08th June, 2020

Paradoxe by Pierre Cardin

This has a strongly aldehydic opening: crisp, "white" & soapy, along with bergamot & perhaps some white florals. I can't really pick out the floral notes individually, except for a little carnation a few minutes in. From here the leather note slowly builds, until ninety minutes in it's all leather & moss, with a hint of castoreum. Later there's sandalwood in the base, & four hours in it's a softly animalic skin scent. There are echoes of Magie Noire deep in the late drydown nine hours in, & it's still quetly persistent after eleven hours.

I can see where the "paradox" comes from: there's a distinct contrast between the brightness of the opening & the darkness of the drydown here. And it's quite an enjoyable ride.
08th June, 2020