Perfume Reviews

Reviews by hedonist222

Total Reviews: 91

Le Barbier de Tanger by MDCI

An Aventus flanker.

IMO much better then Aventus because it's , slightly, more complex.

Calone & pineapple.

For shame MDCI....piggybacking on Aventus' success...
15th December, 2016

Petit Matin by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

It's a very nice perfume. Just not a very nice Maison Francis K. perfume.
It starts out lemony with a bit of orange blossom and a tiny hint of lavender. If I didn't read that it included lavender, I wouldn't have noticed.
The ambroxan is there but muted. It gives it modern touch.
I'm not sure what litsea cubeba smells like but it didn't have a strong presence either.
The dry down is basically a musky orange blossom.

Again, a great present to give or if you don't have 50 plus perfumes, something to use up once and not re-buy it. But it didn't have enough character to warrant a spot in my 400 plus closet.
A good perfume - a poor MFK.

I should've prefaced this by saying I love MFK perfumes and own a lot. So I went in wanting to like them. But like it was just really mediocre.
18th September, 2016

Fêtes Persanes by MDCI

Soft pepper & cardamom opening.

A lot of labdanum, some vanilla and cinnamon.

It's not a bright perfume.
08th June, 2016
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Armani Privé Fil Rouge by Giorgio Armani

Opens with an aldeyhde note, a lot of iris & muted angelic note.

Later on, the angelica, iris and musk become powdery.

I much prefer the opening.

I'd have culled the musk note & amplified the angelica.

Nice but not full bottle worthy imo.
21st May, 2016

Les Absolus d'Annick Goutal : 1001 Ouds by Annick Goutal

A refreshing take on oud.
The menthol (papyrus) note blends well with the smoky/oud note.
29th January, 2016

Etoile d'Or by Volnay

Very very nice

Take the suede note in habit rouge, the thick concentrated vanilla from vintage shalimar & the viscous bilge note from petroleum.
Add some lavender & benzoin.

Great perfume.

Worth seeking out to try.
25th December, 2015

Oud Palao by Diptyque

Dior Leather Oud, you're right.
Very similar - sans the fecal note.

Needless to say, this is based on the smell of oud wood burning.
The other notes, rose, labdanum & vanilla are muted.
I.e: the rose isn't as prominent as in Oud Ispahan for example.
15th November, 2015

The Botanist by MiN New York

vetiver and apple

unique in that I've never smelled vetiver with apple

the vetiver is the botanical note

unless you've fallen in love with the above accord, theres nothing special.
12th November, 2015

Dahab by MiN New York

ugh terrible synthetic oud that doesn't smell like oud

a derivative of black afghano
12th November, 2015

Moon Dust by MiN New York

the "moon dust" note is east african incense (aka somali incense)
12th November, 2015

Narciso Rodriguez for Him Bleu Noir by Narciso Rodriguez


Was hoping I'd be the first one to say it smells like Terre de Hermes. A flanker at least.

Less minerals, more cedar, & a grapefruit-vetiver accord.

Actually, that's not a bad thing - the clone scenario.

Great for TdH lovers.
24th October, 2015

Esprit du Tigre / Spirit of the Tiger by Heeley

Inigo, Lisa, thanks.
I've been wanting a menthol/confirous/camforous perfume for a while now.
Tried many.
Some were too weird - Fille en Aiguilles

Tubereuse Criminelle came close but veered off into tuberose territory

Others were ok but veered off into an herbal prospective (Geoffrey Beene bowling green)

Others started out nice but ended up flaking away - Richard Lüscher Britos 46°N 08°E - Valais

Norne is ughh .. nauseating

Blenheim Bouquet is a good alternative -

Between this & Granville , my tiger balm needs are satiated.
Granville and Esprit du Tigre are like Coromandel & Borneo 1834.
The former are elegant, polished, regal & everything that a St.Regis calls for.
The latter are the rugged, utilitarian & unadulterated complementary specimens.
26th April, 2015

Fève Délicieuse by Christian Dior

As usual, another excellent addition to Dior. Without a doubt, it contains that high end, upscale and generally chic finishing that we've come to know, enjoy and expect from Dior's prive line.

Let me preface this by saying it is not sweet at all. Let not the caramel not deter you.

Its easy to review Feve Délicieuse by comparing it to my reference tonka perfume, Serge's Fourreau Noir.

Take Serge Lutens' FN, take out all the lavender.
Replace lavender with a teensy bit of warm cocoa powder and caramel.

The caramel note here isn't the type of caramel you'd find at convenience stores and terrible mass market places like the fair or a theme park.
Its artisinal caramel. Sweet with a teeny bit of smoke.
Easily made at home if you have a professional thermometer (message me for details).

The combination of earthy cocoa (similar to the one in Borneo 1834), smoky sweetness (not at all tooth achingly sweet) and tonka make it the perfect tonka perfume.
25th April, 2015
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Aqua Vitae by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

This is what perfume is:

A spray of something that's just pleasing to wear.

No jagged edges.

Aqua Vitae is subtle but rich.

A soft tonka base infused with hedione & soft woods with a dash of aromatic bergamot.

20th April, 2015

masculin Pluriel by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

It really isn't new or unique. A modern fougere.
Some excellent quality lavender, a bit of tonka.
No traditional lemony opening.
I'm detecting some galbanum. A superbly fine & delicate vibe of it.

But what sets it apart and makes it full bottle worthy is the quality of the perfume.
More than ingredient quality, composition quality. It had that upscale Francis K signature finishing.
And ingredient quality is amazing as well.

I'm adding it to my "grab n go" list of perfumes. Something you can wear days in a row when not in the mood to sit and pick from your collection.
18th April, 2015

Lôbitt by Santi Burgas

It opens up with the most scrumptious & ripest orange/mandarin note, with hefty lemon as well.
Very real to life smell.
A bit into it & a white musk & neroli dominate.

I can see this being popular in summer. Nice but nothing groundbreaking (don't think it was intended to be groundbreaking). For niche perfumes, I personally crave a classic composition, like Lobitt, but with an added twist giving it character & setting it apart from other citric/neroli perfumes.
14th April, 2015

Lôence by Santi Burgas

What expectations does one have prior to trying a perfume that's been deemed the 'flagship' item of the perfume house, is limited edition and most importantly,a hefty price tag?

Needless to say, expectations are naturally going to be high.
This is the flagship perfume, it's priced like perfumes from other established perfumers & perfume houses. Oh and a fancy wooden cap.

To succinctly put it, Loence is a diet Sahara Noir with a teeny bit of juniper berries & wood accord(cedar wood dominated).
Projection was good till it abruptly died prematurely.

Quality of Omani frankincense is excellent, then again it's not a particularly ingredient. We buy it by the kilogram here in the gulf. Nonetheless, excellent quality.
It is completely void, though, of Somali & Indian incense. Maybe it's physically there, but the Omani frankincense envelops them in totality.

I was so underwhelmed that I chose to wear something from my wardrobe the next day, instead of trying the other 7 samples I bought.
I mean, if the limited edition flagship was so underwhelming, what is one to expect from the regular line? I'll eventually get round to trying them, but I'm not in a hurry.

Further to this, why make such a simple composition the flagship?
Considering that Tom Ford just recently swept the market with his reference frankincense Sahara Noir.
I'd have delayed Loence or not deemed it the limited edition flagship perfume.

An emerging perfume house employing established perfume house prices in mediocre scents.

Hopefully the other perfumes in the line redeem Loence.
14th April, 2015

Benjoin 19 by Le Labo

Very little benzoin
Little olibanum
Little amber
A lot of disappointment

I should've prefaced this by saying I own 10 le labo bottles.
I love le labo & had high hope for Benjoin 19.
08th April, 2015

Cologne Indélébile by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

A big juicy orange flower note.

Very fresh (not very citric really) smelling.

It's not bad, but where's the Editions de Parfums flare?

07th April, 2015

Oud Ankaa by YS Uzac

smells very very high quality oud that I use.
but i can get the oud for a bit less than this perfume.
and at that point, be wearing real oud as opposed to something that smells (very much so) like real oud.

but the above point remains true for everything oud perfume.

02nd April, 2015

Complex by Boadicea the Victorious

Deep dark resins (galbanum, labdanum, balsams).

Hidden gem.

This is the intense version of Pioneer.
29th March, 2015

Pioneer by Boadicea the Victorious

Deep dark resins (galbanum, labdanum, balsams).

Hidden gem
29th March, 2015

L'Incendiaire by Serge Lutens

et tu, Serge?

for shame Serge, for shame...

This is coming from a man who owns 25 full bottles of your perfumes, real perfumes.

What is this nonsense that is L`incendiaire ?

I walked into the store with the cash in my palms ready to pay because I truly expected it to be worth your asking price.

For Shame.
29th March, 2015

Anubis by Papillon Artisan Perfumes

this is pretty much Cuir de Lancome but a bit smokier.
thumbs down for lack of creativity
27th March, 2015

Misia Eau de Toilette by Chanel

It starts out with a dense rooty iris note.

Shortly, the rooty iris is candified with violet & rose.
Lipsticky but not very feminine.

This is what I smell via projection.

On my skin I smell a faint birch tar/galbanum accord.

Very very nice.
07th March, 2015

Bergamask by Orto Parisi

It reminds me of Eau d'Hermes.

It's a bright citric bergamot dredged by an animalic musky accord. Maybe a hint of blooming jasmine (when blooming at night, jasmine projects more than during the day).
Not fecal, animalic.

Since I own semi-vintage eau d'hermes & not huge on the genre personally, I'll pass.
04th March, 2015

Pear + Olive by Slumberhouse

Build it & they will come.
Blend it & they will spray (anything).


25th January, 2015

Smoke for the Soul by By Kilian

This is Kinski.
Thumbs up because I love Kinski.
Thumbs down because it's a blatant copy (homage?)

Nothing more to add.
22nd January, 2015

Bayolea by Penhaligon's

I love lemongrass - in food.
That said, the lemongrass note in Bayolea is photorealistic.
Smells very natural & quality. Like my fingers after I've crushed lemongrass stalk into iced lemon juice.

There's a lot of lemongrass in it.
That's not good or bad. It depends on how much you like it.

Similar in how Vetiver Extraordinaire has a lot of vetiver , it depends on how much the note appeals to you.

It sits on a creamy base of sandalwood (similar to Tam Dao) with hints of cardamom , pepper & cedarwood.

The lavender is not very prominent but it's medicinal facet is indeed at work in the accord.

The perfume didn't appeal to me but I still have it a thumbs up because of the balanced composition & quality ingredients.

I picked up the deodorant for myself.
01st January, 2015

L'Orpheline by Serge Lutens

It's better to bow out when you're on top, revered & admired than to churn out useless dreck that shouldn't be allowed to bear the 'Serge Lutens' mark on the bottle.

What happened to the masterpieces?

For those who don't know me, I love Serge Lutens.
I own 32 full bottles of his perfumes....

24th December, 2014