Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Dane

Total Reviews: 181

Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler

I wouldn't classify this as a typical citrus. I smell nothing natural - no orange blossom, no petitgrain, no begamot. Infact I don't smell the musk either - I just smell a simple aromachemical (although I couldn't tell you which).

Having said that, it smells great - clean without soapy, upbeat without being a straightforward citrus, perfect for any gender. It just smell good, and I'm happy to have a bottle.
19th June, 2021

L'Ile au Thé by Annick Goutal

This is a great alternative to the king of this category, Bvlgari's original Thé Vert. While the Bvlgari is genius, it doesn't necessarily become across as "natural". Goutal has created a beautiful, very natural smelling rendition of tea of with a touch of citrus and peachy notes.

Allegedly there is a prominent white musk in this that I cannot smell, so longetivity is fine, but not great (for me).

Another terrific, very natural smelling tea is L'Artisan's Thé Pour un Été, but that really feels like the emphasis is on jasmine. Goutal instead uses a drop of osmanthus, which I happen to prefer. The result is similarly affective as Hermes' beautiful Osmanthe Yunnan, with differed proportions.

All of these comparisons are with the best of the best, so L'Ile au Thé is up there with the best of them, and a worthy addition to the family of terrific teas.
04th May, 2021

Hermessence Iris Ukiyoé by Hermès

This is a solid 3 out of 5. No, it never smells of iris root, but that wasn't the point. The point was to create the illusion of how an iris flower might smell, if it had one.

Otherwise a nice green floral, definitely gives me "purple spring flower" vibe, like a hyacinth or cyclamen. Stronger than expected.
30th April, 2021
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Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermès

Meh, what can you say? Beautiful grapefruit topnote, one of the best, doesn't last as long as peeling the fruit yourself.
26th April, 2021

Funeral Home by Demeter Fragrance Library

Lilies & damp carpet. Not sure who would want to wear this, but it's a great roomspray. Lilies & damp carpet.
09th April, 2021

Encens Flamboyant by Annick Goutal

Very interesting. Not sure what I expected (or what I recall smelling upon its release), but this isn't it. It opens with a very subtle incense and hay sharp edges. Above it is a lovely nutmeg topnote, but after that it's a low-hum incense-tobacco (unlit) with some fir tree and sticky resins.

Overall it wears dark and mysterious. It's a lovely layering piece, especially with Goutal's lighter offerings like Mandragore et al. (ps - tried it with Nuit Etoilee *chefs kiss*)

Reminds me a bit of the austere Dia Man. If you're looking for a shocker like Bois d'Encens or Avignon, you should look elsewhere. Smells very natural, very low sillage, but lasts a decent time. Lovers of spiced-tea and incense should definitely try.
07th April, 2021

Eau du Sud by Annick Goutal

This has changed over the years. I remember it once as a basil-infused Eau d'Hadrien, with a slug of oakmoss.

The latest packaging (and I assume formulation) adds an odd cumin note to the top, which eventually dries down to something oddly like Diorella. It's like a long-forgotten formula that Roudknitka had burried away.

I have to say that I liked it before, but now it's love.
27th March, 2021 (last edited: 29th March, 2021)

Heure Exquise by Annick Goutal

This has a filthy, disgusting musk in it. I wouldn't wish this on my worst enemy.
25th March, 2021

Un Matin d'Orage Eau de Toilette by Annick Goutal

I can't for the life of me catch the gardenia accord in here. All I smell is a scratchy fig and a disgusting woody-amber. I found it repulsive.
25th March, 2021

L'Ombre des Merveilles by Hermès

This is an odd one. The listed ingredients are nowhere to be found. No tea, no incense, just a salted orange with the base of the original EdM. It's like Bleue but without the aquatic twist.

Would make a nice summer scent. A solid 3.5.
25th March, 2021

Cologne by Etat Libre d'Orange

It's literally just a standard eau de cologne. Not one surprise.

But I can't give a nice EDC a thumbs down...they always smell good. So thumbs up, I guess.
19th March, 2021

Eau de Néroli Doré by Hermès

Perfectly presentable neroli with citrus uptop, and a boatload of soapy musks in the base. Too bad.
07th March, 2021

Nuit Etoilée by Annick Goutal

Ethereal pine with a sprig of mint and a dash of citrus. A woodsier, greener sibling to Eau d'Hadrien.

As with many Goutals, very light and delicate, and very natural smelling.

Drydown is similar to Lutens' Chene, a resinous wood, with the tiniest drop of immortelle if you really dig your nose in.

This review is for the EDT. The EDP almost feels like a different fragrance altogether. It adds a big iris-amber-tonka base accord that feels like someone added a 2nd floor to their house. Sadly, the immortelle isn't any stronger in the EDP.

Obviously, I prefer the crisp clarity of the EDT, but YMMV, and as far as I can see on Goutal's website, the EDT has been discontinued, so the EDP must have its fans.
05th March, 2021 (last edited: 01st April, 2021)
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Sailors by The Zoo

I'm sorry, I adore so many of Laudamiel's creations, and I do like a remix, but this is terrible. I get the Declaration reference, but it also seems to have a Cool Water (dihydromercenol?) accord that I despise. Beneath all that is an overly spicy, air freshener drydown that makes me gag.

This could pass for a dollar store candle meant to hide pet odours.
27th January, 2021

Suma Oriental by Une Nuit à Bali

A nice patchouli-centric amber oriental. I don't catch much cacao, at least not in the same vein as Borneo, but it could easily be hiding in this well-blended composition.

Not very exciting, but there are some good quality ingredients in here and it's worth trying.

Anyone hyper-sensitive to woody-ambers may find one lurking in the background. Unfortunately it grows stronger over time and mars the otherwise natural-smelling blend. Too bad.
15th January, 2021 (last edited: 16th January, 2021)

I Am Trash : Les Fleurs du Déchet by Etat Libre d'Orange

This is good if you're into garden-fresh scents. Things like Hermes' Jardin series.

The main accord here, without much progression, is a tangy-apple-strawberry-rose. Of course, both apples and strawberries being in the rose family, things all fall into place nicely.

I wish I could describe the drydown, but it's mostly more of the same, at a lower volume. Maybe a slug of generic woody-amber.

It's nice. Many would enjoy it. Many will find that strawberry in fine fragrance is a no-no. They might say it smells like shampoo, and they wouldn't be wrong. How will this sell within ELDO's collection? It's almost a juvenile scent, the same way that their Divin'Enfant is. They smell good, but do I want to smell like a toddler? Maybe!
28th December, 2020 (last edited: 03rd March, 2021)

Lolita Lempicka Le Premier Parfum Morsure d'Amour by Lolita Lempicka

This is probably my favourite LL flanker. This one is so delicate, with the topnotes smelling like almond-dusted cherries and iris, and the licorice-tinted heart smoothing into a woody skin scent.

Basically, if you're looking for the fun of the original, but more fruity and summery, this is the one you want. NOT the inferior "Eau de Toilette". Make sure your bottle has a bite out of it.

So just as the bitten bottle suggests on the outside, the inside is a mere morsel of the original, but perhaps the best parts? Either way, a brilliant transparent oriental homage from the author to herself.

As a transparent watercolour of the original, be mindful that you won't get either the sillage or the longevity of the real thing. Spray liberally.
22nd December, 2020

Drawings by Comme des Garçons

FYI - this is merely a limited edition bottle for CDG's original Eau de Parfum. It looks like someone covered it in paper maché and drew on it with a Sharpie.
17th December, 2020

Memory Motel by Une Nuit Nomade

Kindly ignore the adcopy above. This is Annick Menardo's follow-up to Patchouli 24. But she built on the already-brilliant accord with accents of dark fruit and tobacco.

The topnote is the most breathtakingly beautiful thing - a clear cacao note floats above a swirl of tobacco.

Well worth trying if you, like me, like smelling like old rooms.
11th December, 2020

Rhubarb My Love by The Zoo

This is a very good, photo-realistic rhubarb. It would seem like a logical topnote to something in the Hermes Jardin's series - very tart and juicy.

Doesn't quite exceed CDG's Rhubarb imo, but a lovely rendition either way. Would make a great room spray/candle.

Like the rest of The Zoo line, this lasts and lasts. Hideous packaging, but if you're all about the scent, who cares!
06th December, 2020 (last edited: 27th January, 2021)

parfums*PARFUMS Series 5 Sherbet: Rhubarb by Comme des Garçons

I've loved this since it was released. Back then, you could even get a matching perfumed balm that was quite nice.

There isn't much to say here - rhubarb, on the creamy side. Lasts not long, doesn't project. But delicious while it lasts.
06th December, 2020

Clash : Radish Vetiver by Comme des Garçons

This is a wonderful little gem hidden in CDG's massive collection.

This starts off as a straight-forward, natural Vetiver accord. Not too dark, not too citrusy and bright, and then something strangely "ozonic" enters the room. It's so damp and peculiar - this is what I assume the perfumer would call radish. I don't have a radish on hand, but it's believable, I'm buying it.

That's about that. The rest is more of the same. You pay for radish and Vetiver, and you get radish, Vetiver, and nothing more. Fair.

For most houses that already have a wonderful Vetiver (Vettiveru), I'd say this wasn't necessary, but considering the vastness of CDG's catalogue, why not!

Also, the bottle is. so. cute. I love 30ml bottles because I'll never use up anywhere near that, even if the price is a bit steep for what you get. This one looks just like many other CDG bottles, but miniature. Adorable.
06th December, 2020

FlowerbyKenzo La Cologne by Kenzo

This is a great flanker, I'd say one of Flower's best. This opens up with a very tart, very biting bergamot accord, followed by the OG Flower's accord, with the orange blossom and the pillowy musks with a touch of vanilla.

This is much more ethereal than the original. It comes in a generous 90ml bottle because of this. It's also much greener and drier.

For those of you who don't know, Flower was directly inspired by le Bain de Champagne/Caron, which was always considered unisex. This should be easier for a man to pull off for any guys wanting to dip their toes in the powdery-realm.

TLDR - watered down Flower with a big citrus opening. Very good. Unisex.
03rd December, 2020

Les Exceptions : Chyprissime by Thierry Mugler

Very well-done, non-typical chypre. It seems to take a variety of ingredients (pear, bergamot, oakmoss) and only include the most green, bitter aspects of each.

If you're expecting a typical or even post-modern chypre, you may be disappointed, otherwise a terrific alternative to both Mugler's Cologne, and also somehow No. 19 or Aliage. Lovely.

ps - for another beautiful, more traditional green floral, Supra Floral from the same line is stunning
09th November, 2020

Les Exceptions : Oriental Express by Thierry Mugler

Another boring amber. It smells nice, and if you're looking for that - this could work for you.

Otherwise, there's nothing in here than any other amber. Some spice, some woods, some vanilla, some labdanum.

I happen to have snagged the matching candle to the scent for cheap, and as I suspected, it suits perfuming the room more than your person.
09th November, 2020

Angel Fruity Fair by Thierry Mugler

I liked the idea of this - an apple rose Angel (I took the Pomarose a bit literally). Anyway, it starts as Angel, as all the flankers tend to do, then takes a weird turn away from gourmande and into fresh, fruity thing. I don't personally like it, but it might smell nice on the right person.
29th October, 2020

Des Clous pour une Pelure by Serge Lutens

Nope. Gross. It's the colour of mouthwash, and it smells like a fresh-citrus accord mixes with clove.

Who thought this was a good idea?

16th August, 2020

Paris-Venise by Chanel

Nope, this didn't grab me. I agree with other reviews saying that it's a No. 5 redux. But instead of the beautiful complexity of No. 5, it's just neroli with a dash of vanilla dryer sheet. No. 5 on a hugely reduced formula cost.
16th August, 2020

Duel by Annick Goutal

I tried maté in Argentina. It was gross, but the smell was lovely. Duel captures the over-steeped bitterness of the real thing.

Doesn't last long, but a good Eau de Cologne alternative or for someone who wants something quiet and reserved.
23rd May, 2020

Jaïpur by Boucheron

This related to the extrait.


Like many of Grosjman's scents, this opens with a delicious fruit accord, to my nose recalling one of those cheap, canned fruits in syrup - this time soaking some slices of mandarin that no longer possess and of citrus' zing, leaving only the green meal.

The top manages to cover the floral heart, unlike her brilliant Kashaya for Kenzo, where she mixes the fruity topnotes with some rose and carnations (more "trademarks"), instead a quiet, soapy violet takes their place, making a nice combo for some aldehydes hiding in the background that add sparkle.

The heart a surprisingly cool affair. Lots of watery flowers like lotus and the aforementioned violet. Carnation/clove isn't listed, but I swear I smell a drop of spice. The slightly soapy element remains (freesia? peony?).
19th May, 2020