Perfume Reviews

Reviews by Kotori

Advertisement
Total Reviews: 166
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Cap Nťroli by NicolaÔ

[b]Cap Neroli by Parfums di Nicolai[/b]
[b]Category[/b]: 2 Eau de Cologne variant
[b]Rating[/b]: 2/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: 5/5

An extremely sharp bergamot or Cedrat note tingles the nose so much it burns a bit. A few moments later, it mellows to a lemony cereal smell. It reminds me of Trix. Eventually the citrus fades to a fermented background flavor, as a spicy white floral rises, and the texture of it is like the stamen anthers of a lily that was picked a day or two ago. Itís mostly a neroli, but itís waxy and throat-scratchy and deep like a lily with the stamen intact. Itís a very, very floral interpretation, and Iím not sure Iíd recognize it as neroli if I hadnít known. The heart is neroli painted in a new medium. The drydown reveals a throaty orange blossom blended with a sweet, natural jasmine. Itís a pretty floral, but it isnít really neroli and it does not scratch my citrus itch.
22nd January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Blu Mediterraneo : Chinotto di Liguria by Acqua di Parma

[b]Blu Mediterraneo Chinotto di Liguria by Acqua di Parma[/b]
[b]Category[/b]: 2 Eau de Cologne
[b]Rating[/b]: 5/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: 4/5 (moss lasts well, not citrus)

In the opening thereís a bright fruit I donít recognize alongside a strong but fleeting cardamom note. After a few minutes, the rosemary takes over and becomes much more herbaceous.The base reminds me quite a bit of Eau de Sud, but lighter. Not as unique as the top notes promise, but the mossy base wins me over. An overall gorgeous composition.
22nd January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Blu Mediterraneo : Mirto di Panarea by Acqua di Parma

[b]Blu Mediterraneo Mirto de Panarea by Acqua di Parma[/b]
[b]Category[/b]: 2 Eau de Cologne variant
[b]Rating[/b]: 5/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: 5/5

A shimmery bergamot quickly gives way to a fresh ocean breeze, minus the fish and sand. Itís an unusual aquatic, with a weak kinship to Un Jardin Sur Le Nil in its vegetal aquatic heart with a musky base. The myrtle is refreshing and herbaceous without weighing down the composition. It really does evoke an ocean locale in Europe, and the citrus blend reminds me of Italy. Itís a bright idea thatís well-executed.

Iím checking the longevity, but so far itís been an hour and itís still going strong.
22nd January, 2020
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Blu Mediterraneo : Cedro di Taormina by Acqua di Parma

[b]Blu Mediterraneo Cedro di Taormina by Acqua di Parma[/b]
[b]Category[/b]: 2 Eau de Cologne variant
[b]Rating[/b]: 3/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: 3/5

Bright bergamot with a lavender basil heart that comes across as minty and bracing. The bergamot is fleeting. I like it, but for this style I prefer Eau de Cologne Imperiale by Guerlain, even though it doesnít last.
22nd January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Clťmentine California by Atelier Cologne

Clementine California by Atelier Colognes
Category: 3 Bright Citrus / White Floral
Rating: 3/5
Longevity: 2/5

Thereís a bright, sugared tangerine opening thatís very promising, which is supported by white florals and woods. The white floral medley is comprised mostly of a waxy, lactonic orange blossom that is as fatty as whole milk. Thereís a bit of green fig in the heart, along with honeysuckle and gardenia. The woods are woody aromachemicals that I canít directly inhale without a sharp pain between the eyes. What lasts is the white floral/cedar, not the citrus. This is one Iím glad I had a sample of, or I may have bought it based on the in-store experience.
19th January, 2020 (last edited: 25th January, 2020)
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Mandarine Glaciale by Atelier Cologne

[b]Mandarine Glaciale by Atelier Colognes[/b]
[b]Category[/b]: 3 Bright Citrus / White Floral
[b]Rating[/b]: 2/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: 4/5

Eating 3-day-old tangerines in a kitchen where someone has left the freezer open and someone else is heating up some curry in the microwave. Strange.
19th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Cťdrat Enivrant by Atelier Cologne

[b]Cedrat Enivrant by Atelier Colognes[/b]
[b]Category[/b]: 3 Bright Citrus
[b]Rating[/b]: 3/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: 3/5

The Cedrat is sour and bitter (which I love), and itís supported by a heart of melon and vetiver, plus a dash of mint and a base of woody aromachemicals. It was originally one of my favorites from this line and I used up most of a 4 ml spray. But once you smell that melon note, you canít not. It lasts well, on a base of sour melon-vetiver-woods.
19th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Bergamote Soleil by Atelier Cologne

[b]Bergamot Soleil by Atelier Colognes[/b]
[b]Category[/b]: 3 Bright Citrus
[b]Rating[/b]: 4/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: 4/5

A sharp bergamot-lime opening is supported with a faint whiff of fresh mint leaves. It warms into an overripe lemon with a bit of refrigerator-coldness-smell. Refreshing and uplifting, it seems to fizz. This effect is probably ISO E Super or some such aromachemicals, but the charm is hard to ignore. Have you ever tasted Fanta Limon from Espana? This is a bit like that. My only complaint is the disproportionate static of woody aromachemicals in the base. On a bad day, they instigate headaches. But on a good day, this is a walk down a hot street with a fizzy lemon drink. One of this lineís best.
19th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Orange Bitters by Jo Malone

[b]Jo Malone Orange Bitters[/b]
[b]Category[/b]: 1 Bigarade type
[b]Rating[/b]: 2/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: 5/5

Definitely a winter citrus, it opens with delicious sugared orange peels, but then the base structure of Bath & Body Works Twilight Woods emerges. It dries down to an ambery Bath & Body Works lotion type of base, and despite it smelling nice, I smell a lot like any middle aged white lady after applying Christmas gift lotion from my desk drawer.
19th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by HermŤs

[b]Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermes[/b]
[b]Category[/b]: 2 Eau de Cologne type
[b]Rating[/b]: 4/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: 2/5

These early eaux from Hermes are all pretty admirable, with realistic citrus tops and a soft, mossy base. This one opens with a tart grapefruit, supported by a barely detectable rose, providing mostly structural support. After 10-20 minutes, the grapefruit is just a flavoring added to the blend. Finally a mossy/woody bade peeks out, and this is where it all lands. Its ultimate drydown strongly recalls 2015 Eau Sauvage.
19th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Mandarino di Amalfi by Tom Ford

[b]Mandarino di Amalfi by Tom Ford[/b]
[b]Category[/b]: 3 Bright Citrus type
[b]Rating[/b]: 4/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: Forever, apparently?

A sour mandarin that is overripe and verging on rotten, but never ventures into the Bigarade territory. It is bright and refreshing with an unexpected tartness. The strength is in the musky base, and this one is not a dryer sheet musk, but an animalic one with a hint of cumin. After a few minutes, the combo has a tendency to go funky/skunky, and if youíre wearing this on a hot day, you may not wish to over-apply if youíll be in the vicinity of others during this stage. The skunky part resolves within a few minutes and you have a rounder musky mandarin with decent lasting power.
19th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Grand Nťroli by Atelier Cologne

[b]Grand Neroli by Atelier Colognes[/b]
[b]Category[/b]: 2/3 hybrid
[b]Rating[/b]: 3/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: 2/5

The opening is promising: a tart bergamot paired with a spicy neroli. In these moments, it strikes me as a most sophisticated and hopefully long-lasting 4711. Soon a laundry musk saunters in, and the entire compositions sweetens and softens, as if melting. In later moments, it recalls a fruity air freshener from my childhood; one I despise. Finally, within the hour, itís a barely noticeable fruity air freshener.
19th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Cologne Sologne by NicolaÔ

[b]Cologne Sologne[/b]
[b]Category[/b]: 2 Eau de Cologne type
[b]Rating[/b]: 3/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: 1/5

Iíve had this sample long enough that Iíve used up most of its 5 ml; long enough that itís become as much a reference eau de cologne for me as 4711. Iím going to ignore listed notes and describe what I smell. The opening is lemon blossom, neroli, soft unidentifiable herbs, and French triple-milled soap. Later there is Neroli-scented triple-milled soap, and the lemon blossom fades, along with the herbs. That soapy bit continues in little wafts here or there for a few hours, but the citrusy bits are ephemeral. Itís a good value, but not quite as citrusy as I would like.
19th January, 2020
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria by Guerlain

[b]Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria[/b]
[b]Category[/b]: 3 Bright Citrus
[b]Rating[/b]: 4/5
[b]Longevity[/b]:3/5

If Mediterraneo by Carthusia is lemon tea, then Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria is [i]lemonade[/i]. Lemonade made fresh with too much sugar, the way my son likes to make it. In this way it reminds me of Eau de Guerlain with its warm sweet base supporting the citrus. There is a scene In the book [i]I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings[/i] where young Maya/Marguerite is invited to the home of the classiest lady in town, Sister Flowers, where she is offered fresh lemonade and tea cookies.

[i] They were flat round wafers, slightly browned on the edges and butter-yellow in the center. With the cold lemonade they were sufficient for childhoodís lifelong diet. Remembering my manners, I took nice little ladylike bites off the edges. She said she had made them expressly for me and that she had a few in the kitchen that I could take home to my brother. So I jammed one whole cake in my mouth and the rough crumbs scratched the insides of my jaws, and if I hadnít had to swallow, it would have been a dream come true.[/i]

Itís a marvelous scene, and I now imagine it might smell like this.
19th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Mon Numťro 9 by L'Artisan Parfumeur

[b] Mon Numero 9 by LíArtisan Parfumeur [/b]
[b] Category [/b]: 2 Eau de Cologne type (variant)
[b]Rating[/b]: 4/5 (base somewhat unpleasant)
[b] Longevity[/b]:2/5 (citrus gone quickly)

Itís a rare thing that after so many years of loving fragrances and exploring them, a fragrance would still have the capacity to surprise me, but Mon Numero 9 has done just that. I dabbed a bit on from my dabber sample, and immediately a snapped stems greenness rose up, mixing with lime. I broke into a smile. There are a lot of listed notes, but the only ones I smell are cyclamen, lime, and shiso. The lime is not dominant for long, and Iíll see how long it actually lasts. But itís gorgeous either way. A stemmy green citrus with an eau de cologne style and weight, it lasts well because of its green base. I wore Eau de Shiso by Roger and Gallet through two bottles, and this one is much more sophisticated. It seems to have a nice sillage, as well. Worth considering!

EDIT: Possible headache induced in base notes
19th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Basil & Neroli by Jo Malone

Basil & Neroli by Jo Malone
Category: 2 Eau de Cologne type
Rating: 5/5
Longevity: 3/5

A green floral masquerading as an EDC. Love the snapped stems of the basil note. This Basil note is more assertive than the one in Lime, Basil & Mandarin. I really like the basil with the neroli; theyíre a great team! Neroli can get sickly sweet, but the basil keeps it in check. Despite it being technically a green floral, this has a lot of resemblance to 4711 and the like, minus the lemon introduction. This has possibilities.
12th January, 2020 (last edited: 25th January, 2020)
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Lime, Basil & Mandarin by Jo Malone

[b]Lime, Basil & Mandarin by Jo Malone[/b]
[b]Category:[/b] Hybrid of Category 2 and 3 (EDC/Bright Citrus)
[b]Rating[/b]: 3/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: 2/5

When I think of this house, I think of this fragrance, even though we own two Jo Malones at the Kotori household and neither are this. Itís been copied ad nauseum and turned into copycat candles and probably even something at Bath and Body Works. Iím very familiar; itís ubiquitous. I used to adore it back when I could have never justified its cost. Now Iím exploring it for real, since I always pass it by when Iím at a counter, looking for whatís new. I love the basil! I grow basil every summer and I put it in everything we eat during the hottest months. Itís cooling and fragrant, and the note here is obvious now that Iím looking for it. I used to think the basil made it masculine, but I am not getting that at all today. Unisex. It even sours the citrus notes enough to make them interesting. A fruity citrus with a basil underpinning that recalls the rosemary/cypress/geranium/etc. in an EDC, but is tongue in cheek about it. Unfortunately, itís quite fleeting, with the interesting bits being gone at around an hour. Note: may cause headache.
12th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

4711 Echt KŲlnisch Wasser by 4711

[b]4711[/b]
[b]Category:[/b] 2 Eau de Cologne type
[b]Rating[/b]: 4/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: 1/5

This test is courtesy of my 12-year-oldís dabber bottle. Both of my kiddos love it. They love lemony stuff (Lemony Snicket included). This fragrance starts with a bright lemon blast which fades almost instantly to a soft neroli/herb base. Not much going on. Itís simple, refreshing, and classic. I wish the citrus lasted longer than 20 minutes! Undetectable within an hour.
12th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Hadrien Absolu by Annick Goutal

Tonight Iím doing a side by side comparison of:

[b]Annick Goutalís Eau díHadrien EDT[/b]
[b]Category:[/b] Hybrid of 2 and 3 (EDC/Bright Citrus)
[b]Rating[/b]: 4/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: need to test again

and

[b]Eau díHadrien EDP/Absolu[/b].
[b]Category:[/b] Hybrid of 2 and 3 (EDC/Bright Citrus)
[b]Rating[/b]: 5/5
[b]Longevity[/b]: need to test again


I have a story about this fragrance that is perhaps for another time, but perhaps relevant. On my honeymoon in Paris, I stayed at a hotel that used Eau díHadrien soap. While there I acquired a serious case of food poisoning that left me very dehydrated. During this time I attempted a bath, but had to get back out and leave the room because of the offensive floral soap. It made me sick just to be in the same room with it. Fast forward some years and imagine my surprise when I discover that Eau díHadrien is a lightweight, inoffensive lemon that after all these years I had misremembered (and misperceived while ill) as a foul floral.

I actually really enjoy this now. Definitely a contender. The EDT and EDP are very similar, but for an opaqueness in the EDP that isnít present in the EDT, plus a slight rotting citrus warmth from the EDP. Usually an EDT girl, Iím surprised to be preferring the EDP. Not sure itís really any stronger or longer-lasting, but itís definitely got a different texture.
12th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Eau de Cologne Impťriale by Guerlain

[b]Eau de Cologne Imperiale by Guerlain[/b]
[b]Category 2:[/b] Eau de Cologne type
[b]Rating: 5/5[/b]
[b]Longevity: 2/5[/b]

There are several excellent cologne offerings from the house of Guerlain. This one is bracing with a tantalizing lemon opening that lasts only 5 to 10 minutes before fading into a warm, lemon-like herbal blend that reminds me a bit of lemon drops. I like the drydown, and it lasts for about 2 hours.
12th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Gucci Bloom Acqua di Fiori by Gucci

Gucci goes back to their roots with an opaque green floral with a white floral heart and a lot of personality, alla Gucci Envy. It is also cousins with Rush, given the tuberose heart that recalls Rushís lactonic gardenia. Itís been awhile since I could give my family and friends the name of a department store perfume they can purchase for me. After a decade of sheer laundry-scented gardenias and heavy ambroxan woods, this one is finally worthy of the Gucci portfolio. Bravo, Morillas!
06th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Pacific Lime by Atelier Cologne

Not my favorite of their offerings. Itís lovely, but it isnít lime. And it isnít astringent like some of my favorites: Bergamot Soleil and Cedrat Enivrant come to mind. After the first 5 minutes, itís almost a direct copy of Pulp by Byredo, and like that beauty, it smells more like Papaya than citrus. To its credit, Pacific Lime is more sheer than Pulp, and would wear more easily in the heat. But Pulp is Pulp, and it doesnít need a sequel.
06th January, 2020
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Joy by Christian Dior

No love lost here. Chance Eau Tendre meets Gabrielle. A bad Chanel.
09th August, 2019
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Vangelis by Sylvaine Delacourte

A vanilla with clove and bitter almond playing strong supporting roles. Thereís an obvious woody aromachemical in the opening of which Iím not fond. The dry down is Christmassy with clove, vanilla, and a dash of tangerine.
07th July, 2019
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Vahina by Sylvaine Delacourte

Fruity floral candy potpourri. Itchy and overwhelming like a makeup job done by a small child. Way too much dryer sheet musk, functional fragrance candy, and 1990ís air freshener.
07th July, 2019
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Un Jardin sur la Lagune by HermŤs

The woody aromachemicals have overtaken the garden.
26th May, 2019
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Soliflore Osmanthus by Dame Perfumery

This reminds me a great deal of a very early Victoriaís Secret bath product: Peach Hyacinth. They had it in bath gel, lotion, and splash (this was before body sprays). It was peachy in a fizzy, dry wayó not too sweet.

Osmanthus by Dame is mostly about peach, and I donít smell much in the way of flowers, though Iíve read that Osmanthus in nature is very peachlike. I canít, however, speak to the accuracy of the Osmanthus accord, having never smelled Osmanthus Absolute or an Osmanthus flower.

But itís very pretty and could conceivably remind one of a more natural, less plastic Gucci Rush, without the woody elements. It also reminds me somewhat of Badgley Mischka, though I find it more crystalline than that.

Note that for a soliflore perfume, it is not at all shy.
29th March, 2019
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Bouquet Massai by Parfumerie Generale

Bouquet Massai

A strong entry in the creamy florals category, with a heavy focus on magnolia and peony. There is a slight salted caramel note balancing the tartness of the peony. I really smell the tropical tolu and I get a mild sunscreen vibe from the fragrance as a result. It begins as a heady, creamy floral that causes an unfortunate frontal headache. It calms down after a minute. I detect a generous helping of a cedar synthetic along with the stated cashmeran. There is perhaps too much peony and tolu in here for what Iím looking for, but there certainly is a lot of magnolia. Elegant.
06th February, 2019
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Mito Eau de Parfum by Vero Profumo

Mito EDP opens with a lush Sicilian lemon, so juicy that you know with an ache that it will not last. And sure enough, in a few minutes, we have a pithy, mealy, squeezed out bit of lemon from the edge of the saucer. Here there begins an earthiness that is like the garden freshly turned, but you are not the gardener and are catching its scent from a distance. You are a passerby on a walk on a sunny day after a rain in a clay-laden place. Shortly you walk through an herb patch and accidentally crush some of it. Perhaps a bit of rosemary or thyme, too late in the orchestration to balance the lemon as in an eau de cologne. Soon as you resume your walk, there is the odor of something vaguely floral on the breeze, combining with a mineralic odor of rocky clay soil and a stronger tinge of herbs and greens. As you continue your stroll, you identify the floral odor: a Magnolia tree nearby has begun to bloom. You press your face into one of the lower blossoms, catching a whiff of its spicy pollen and waxy petals. The dusty trunk mixes in and there is still the herbal glossy greenness of the substantial leaves.

Mito is not a purely floral magnolia: it's magnolia as it smells not in a bowl of water, but still on a tree-- the dirt, the pollen, the leaves. It's a magnolia set in a well-maintained garden, verdant and stately. It isn't exactly the magnolia I know here in TN: it's spicier. It's a magnolia grown in a hotter, drier soil, so that it is less musty and more spicy than they can be here.

The drydown is spicy in the way of pollen and various tree barks, with the faint creamy waxiness of magnolia petals.

Taken as a whole, this work is so much richer than I thought a green perfume could be. A distinctive work, yet totally wearable.
06th February, 2019
Kotori Show all reviews
United States

Magnolia Romana by Eau d'Italie

Herbaceous, herbal, greenish, and floral. It gets the magnolia tree smell really right. But Iím totally missing the rose-mint-citron-creme of the blossom. Nicely done and doesnít leave me scratching my head.
06th February, 2019