Perfume Reviews

Reviews by odysseusm

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Total Reviews: 1684

Black Jade by Lubin

Sweet opening of plummy bergamot and spices. The spices deepen into the woods and resins. Opulent and rich. Much too sweet for me, but I'm not the target market. It is a well made scent with good notes. The patchouli and vanilla are not overdone, thankfully.
02nd December, 2020

L'Eau Neuve (new) by Lubin

An attractive cologne style scent. Good herbal notes and bright citrus work well together. Some gentle, peppery spice lurking in the background. Easy to wear and refreshing, both men and women would enjoy it. Nothing remarkable or innovative here, but a pleasant scent.
30th November, 2020

Akkad by Lubin

Disappointed and a bit surprised. I thought the amber (not a favourite of mine) would be the problem. But, it is the vanilla. This is like a sweet sugar cookie. It almost has a fizzy quality, like biting into sugar crystals on top of a cookie. When this initial blast of sweetness burns off, I detect the good resins and incense. Many would like this Oriental, it certainly is in the conventional comfort zone: sweet and the incense is relatively tame. But it is not what I seek in a scent.
30th November, 2020
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Nuit de Longchamp by Lubin

A charming and traditional scent. Lovely floral notes. Aimed at the sophisticated female market. Projects a confident, mature air. The violet adds a haunting, old-school vibe. I like it and would enjoy meeting someone wearing it!
28th November, 2020

Corallo / Coral Shell by Ortigia

Resinous and dusky. Gets powdery and somewhat sweet. The balsamic herbs are a fairly heavy note. Some spices. Also get fennel and mint -- reminds me of organic toothpaste, something that Toms of Maine might do. One tiny little spritz is ALL that is needed. Would be overwhelming otherwise. The powerful note burns off quickly but parts of it linger. Kind of a roller-coaster ride. Interesting scent, not a particular favourite.
19th October, 2020

Au Coeur du Desért by Tauer

Smooth and attractive. Has some green notes at the beginning, perhaps the patchouly is displaying mint-like qualities. Subtle spices and wood tones. Ending gets a bit sweet and battery. Low-key, and probably most people would like this.
12th July, 2019

Freetrapper by D.S. & Durga

One of the more mild-mannered of the line. Herbal and a bit grassy at first, with a hint of smoke. Light woods and incense, and a mossy dry-down. Very pleasant, not heavy or sweet.
28th June, 2019

Bakhoor by Montale

I like this a lot. It is very dry, and has a haunting, evocative and exotic character. Peppery spice notes, dry green resins, resolute woods, and sophisticated, non-threatening oud. Reminds me of Tom Ford's Sahara Noir, but this is not so in-your-face. It is more subtle and elegant. Everything is perfectly balanced, and it wears well throughout the day. Oriental Woody. One site suggests it has olibanum in it.
From the Montale site:
"Bewitched by an ancestral perfumed ritual which comes to us from the nomadic Arab tribes of the Middle East, Pierre Montale has created BAKHOOR (pronounced BAROUR), a raw and wild creation, inspired by the traditional incense, burned to release the scents of resin, sandalwood, perfumed wood and natural oils. A wisp of smoke that rises to the sky, an invitation to discover mystical scents of the Orient, both intriguing and fascinating."
20th June, 2019

Eau de Minthé Eau de Parfum by Diptyque

Green, herbal, refreshing. The mint is NOT like toothpaste, and is not really very minty in style; rather, it is green leaf herbal at the beginning. Pleasant scent, settles into a light brown patchouli accord. My one complaint is that it is not terribly interesting. When I think of classic mint scents, Creed's Sélection Verte or L'Artisan's L'Eau du Caporal come to mind. In these, the mint is more identifiable yet is not compromised. The dry-down is gorgeous -- a throw-back to a classic fougere of the 80's but with a little lighter touch.
12th June, 2019

Outrageous by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Dusty spice and bright citrus notes. Shifts intonations distinctive wood note: ghostly, like a distant echo. Metallic underpinning. Interesting scent, not my style. Very modern.
12th June, 2019

Music For a While by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Good lavender note up front. Interesting to combine it with pineapple -- not quite sure about that combination but it cashes in on the pineapple craze started by Creed Aventus. Sugary notes give a rather cookie/foody aspect which I am not really enamoured with. Fruity notes bubble in the background. Bit of leather from the patchouli. This is OK, but really not my style. Gets quite buzzy in the dry down.
11th June, 2019 (last edited: 12th June, 2019)

Sale Gosse by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

Fresh, lemony, bright. Many attractive citrus notes. Quite youthful in style. The so-called "bubble-gum" note is a bit metallic. Breezy and fun. A bit soapy at times. Lovely floral-violet note in the dry down. Mild thumbs up.
10th June, 2019

Dawn by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

My comment is based solely on a spritz in a shop -- I am unlikely to purchase it (given the price). Some reviewers talk of a shocking, animal oud note. I found it to be rather mild-mannered: definitely oud but not shocking. Dried into a light, pleasant woody-incense. The word I was thinking throughout was "subtle." Perhaps a large application would yield more depth and facets. Given the price, the shop was doling out single spritzes.
10th June, 2019
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Every Storm a Serenade by Imaginary Authors

For me, the ozonic/fresh and oceanic component dominates. I don't get much in the way of conifers or vetiver. Definitely a salty tang here though, reminiscent of ambergris (in a mild synthetic way). Pleasant, but it does not wow me.
06th May, 2019

Botafumeiro by Carner Barcelona

I don't care for it, and am disappointed. The Botafumerio at the cathedral Santiago di Compostella is a gigantic incense censer. It takes several priests working on a pulley system to swing it. Thus, it is a symbol of massive incense in a church setting.
Carner's Botafumerio is not particularly incense oriented. Odd choice to not have frankincense or myrrh. There is only cistus (labdanum) and styrax (benzoin), plus a synthetic accord with the lame name 'Mystikal."
The scent is a somewhat sweet, foody-gourmand sort. Sugary, a bit nutty, reminiscent of a praline. Then a fuzzy warm note appears, cozy like a cashmere sweater. There are some light dusky green notes from the cistus, a bit like celery leaf.
The scent is not dreadful -- but it bears no relation to its name and thus fails to meet expectations.
04th May, 2019

Experimentum Crucis by Etat Libre d'Orange

The apple note is up-front! A juicy green and tart apple, like Granny Smith. A pretty scent, charming and unisex. Florals and a hint of rose.
21st April, 2019

Wander by Miller Harris

A very green and pretty scent. Light, refreshing, unisex. Notes of celery leaf and tomato leaf.
21st April, 2019

El Cosmico by D.S. & Durga

I like it. For lovers of conifer, this is worth checking out. Resinous, dry, coniferous, austere. Evokes the landscape of a scrubby mesa. Garrigue. At times, there is a hay-like, tarragon note.
21st April, 2019

BR78 : Vintage Green by Banana Republic

This is a pleasant, competent spring-green scent. Light and refreshing. Very short longevity but otherwise good.
04th February, 2019

Tristan Lui by Tristan

I was surprised at this. It is a pleasant scent. One does not always encounter a reasonably good scent in the branded line of a store. This has all sorts of "masculine" elements (leather, spice, woods) and the package works well. Not brash, not sweet, well done.
01st February, 2019

L'Eau d'Hiver by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

A wispy, ghostly scent: not spooky, just barely there. Faint white florals and white musk. Nothing Wintery about it.
18th January, 2019

Apley by Truefitt & Hill

This is an OK scent. It has a very pleasant citrus opening. That is brisk and refreshing. It settles into a rich and powerful note of wood. I thought it was sandalwood because it was so sweet and creamy. Perhaps there is some sandalwood in it. Nothing problematic here but it doesn’t wow me.
18th January, 2019

Green Irish Tweed by Creed

A green, sporty scent. Interesting, since none of the notes are especially "green" in characteristics (well, perhaps the verbena a bit). Smells like a lot of the golf-inspired scents of the 1980's (e.g., Royal Green,
Trophée Lancôme, Greenbriar). Pleasant, for me it is not compelling. Reasonably classy, I suppose.
Dry-down is salty and mossy -- but no moss is listed. Guess that is the ambergris.
11th December, 2018

Pine & Eucalyptus Living Cologne by Jo Malone London

This was branded as a "Living Scent." More recently it is labeled "Surround™ room spray."
Normally I don't seek out room sprays and apply them to my body. I find such sprays to be rather brash, assertive, and un-subtle.
However, this product is different. Its intent is to be a multi-purpose scent, suitable for creating room ambience yet subtle and crafted enough to wear on one's body. This succeeds in that respect.
It lists only pine + eucalyptus. I also get freshly-cut ginger root, a hint of lemon, and some woody notes.
It is fresh and green with Xmas tree and camphoraceous hints. Very natural. Not sweet. A bit balsamic. Wears well, good longevity.
Billed as a "limited edition" product and usually only available November - January.
05th December, 2018

Portraits : Much Ado About The Duke by Penhaligon's

This is interesting, it is OK. Fresh, dry rose; framed by pepper and bright juniper notes. Woody pencil-shavings from cumin. Don't get much leather at this point -- no problem as I am not a big fan of leather notes. A delicate, somewhat creamy dry-down. Leather and wood are muted.
30th November, 2018

Alizarin by Penhaligon's

This is a very civilized leather-oud scent. The oud is distinctive but mild, and combines well with the leather. I get hints of tuberose and iris, but they are in the background. Bit of grassy/earthy vetiver in the dry down. Don't get any olibanum (frankincense). A good scent, though not coniferous in my opinion. At times it reminds me of SMN's Nostalgia.
29th November, 2018

Savoy Steam Eau de Cologne by Penhaligon's

Disappointment. There is something about the particular lemon + balsamic cedar wood here which creates a foody impression -- like a slightly burned lemon cookie. This scent doesn't work for me, at all.
28th November, 2018

Tom Ford Noir Anthracite by Tom Ford

Spicy, peppery. Starts off rather similar to Sahara Noir. Woody notes with a mineral edge (like graphite). Bold and assertive. I suppose that some might find the mineral edge to be reminiscent of oak moss. And, like oak moss, there is a sort of soapy-creamy aspect. Pretty good.
03rd October, 2018

Sequoia by Abbott

A fine, aromatic, dry scent. Somewhat minimalist in style. The cedar has a slightly sweet tone and is fairly woody. The incense adds a restrained, resinous-coniferous note. The sandalwood softens the scent slightly with its characteristic creamy aspect.
24th January, 2018

Noix de Tuberéuse by Miller Harris

Sweet, fleshy, nutty -- what I would expect from tuberose. Beaucoup de florals here, feminine in style. Has some interesting green and resinous notes on the side. When the sweetness burns off, the scent improves in my opinion. More green notes, and an amber note which is well done (though I don't particularly care for amber). Not my style, but worth checking out.
08th January, 2018