Perfume Reviews

Latest Perfume Reviews

Total Reviews: 159956
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Oolong Tea by Jo Malone

A light note of tea and minimally bitter hot cocoa develops slowly at the beginning. The tea is actually more in the background, is spite of the name of this product; it is a weak milky and rather nondescript tea.

Fairly soon after the start a vanilla develops, mixed with some tonka. Faintly herbal undertone appears transiently. A very restrained smooth and slightly sweet pipe tobacco is added at a later stage.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and six hours of longevity on my skin.

Not bad as a scent for warmer autumn days, but the notes have an unfortunate tendency towards being a bit anaemic and lacking vibrancy. Furthermore, I cannot get any convincing Oolong in here. Where is my Bulgari Black?
12th September, 2020

Ganymede by Marc-Antoine Barrois

Department Store EDP

This smells exactly like the Gap store, and the upstairs of Younkers at my mall. Its like new clothes, shoes, carpet, cleaners, the whole works. I find it super strong.
If I try to pick out notes I get saffron, violet, musc, and etc. This could be a distinct great signiture. It is ultra versatile. It has an accord feel that is entirely hard to nail down. It smells good. Price is a bit steep. Might buy it eventually. Would work well for times where you are not looking to make a statement, though it is certainly unique. I've gotten quite a few moments while wearing it that I've mentally connected Narciso Rodriguez for Men from the Musk and violet. It is impecably blended, but down feel a bit "6 note composition" at times. Thumbs up. Its one to try. Even if the notes dont speak to you, this may be something that suprises you.
12th September, 2020

Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne

This is a good fragrance for me. And in the opening it is really great. Spicy cardamom (which I don't normally find spicy, but it lends here), with some coriander, a smear of pink pepper and some powdery waxy fatty aldehydes, built on an airy base of vetiver, in the vein of dry bitter leaves. I found the performance a bit light after the first hour. It initially feels like it will have heft, but the airy nature takes over, and it fizzles.
12th September, 2020
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Aramis Tobacco Reserve by Aramis

Aramis Tobacco Reserve falls right in line with the classic bottle it's housed in and meets expectations as another well blended flanker in the Aramis line. Simple in composition, after around 15 minutes, this EDP brings the slightly powdery, sweet tobacco front and center and keeps on truckin'. Longevity on my skin with 2 sprays was 10 hours. Recommended for night time wear in cooler weather. 3/5 stars.

Note: Only 2 years old, this one already seems to be on it's way out and is getting scarce online. A 2oz bottle is currently at around $60; 3.7 oz $80; 3-5ml decants $6-10.
12th September, 2020

Sopra il Mare by Bois 1920

Sopra il Mare by Bois 1920 (2018) is part of the "Collezione Youth" which is pretty obviously aimed at younger people (I hated typing that out). Perfumed by Christian Calabro (Bois 1920 and House of Oud), Sopra il Mare means "above the sea", and the idea was to impart saltiness of the ocean with the sweetness of white florals and tonka, offering a fresh/soft contrast that would appeal to younger people. This is mostly achieved through the novel use of fenugreek, which is an herb used in the Mediterranean to hide the taste of medicine or to flavor confections, having a maple-like taste/odor. I can see the appeal here for someone into sweet perfumes, but I'm not entirely sold, although I will say the idea of a 90's designer-style gourmand floral in 2018 from a niche house called Bois 1920 is not something I'd expect to be writing about, but here we are.

The opening is a salty marine note followed up by huge billows of jasmine hedione. Supposedly rose and lilac are here but the generic white floral blast here is very 90's, and if you told me this was either an Angel by Thierry Mugler (1992) or Calvin Klein cK One (1994) flanker, I'd have believed you. The fenugreek comes next, offering a gourmand twist that is love or hate really, but at least offers the most-intersting part of the scent profile. Beyond that, it's white musks, ethyl maltol, and tonka bean whipped up into a fluffy cloud with vanilla and a bit of patchoulol. Sopra il Mare reads very feminine to my nose and also feels romantic, too warm for hot weather, and not very sea-like beyond the brief opening salt. Performance can be cloying and oppressive, so beware the sprays. Best use for me would be fall and winter, although I wouldn't really want to wear this anywhere anytime personally. Angel was interesting because it had this metallic x-factor from helonial, and that added a mature edge, something this fragrance likely lacks on purpose.

Sopra il Mare by Bois 1920 is a fragrance where I cannot fault the quality so much (no harshness, no obvious seams or falling apart in the dry down), but it does read very 90's designer, in particular as something on the women's market at the time when sweet poofy fragrances were becoming the rage with schoolbound girls. I have nothing against the cotton candy perfumes of the day, but they're not something I'd wear, let alone pay niche prices for 20+ years removed from their peak in the market. What goes around comes around, so this style may get a second wind in the niche market (if it ever fully went away in the mainstream), but it isn't one I'd put my nose on intentionally, I just happened to run across access to a tester and here's your review as a result. Sample and see for yourself, although that may requite buying a decant due to Bois 1920 not being a found outside niche boutiques. Neutral.
12th September, 2020

Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf

Pink pepper fun

Its not the spice cabinet I wish it was. Its a pink pepper frag, pretty sweet, pretty loud. The only aggressive thing about this grenade is the strength of the projection and juice in general. Not the composition, which I find nice and people pleasing. No one smells this on someone and thinks its daring. But thumbs up, since I think they did a pretty good job overall.
11th September, 2020 (last edited: 13th September, 2020)

Cannabis Fruttata by Bois 1920

Cannabis Fruttata by Bois 1920 (2019) is a flanker launched alongside the original Cannabis by Bois 1920 (2019), both perfumed by niche nose Christian Calabro. As with Cannabis, this doesn't fully resemble any marijuana I've smelled in my life, fresh on the plant, in a baggie, or burned in a joint/bowl/bong, and I've "been around" so I know the variations of smell different strains can have. Instead, we see the green citrus chypre that was Cannabis infused with some fruity lactonic notes, interestingly bringing this closer to a feminine market 1970's chypre like Charlie by Revlon (1973). The rounded feel this fruit note gives Cannabis Fruttata makes it smell a bit more like the "real deal", as some pot strains can have a bit of fruitiness to their "stank", but it's still not close to accurate. Lovers of stuff like Ninféo Mio by Annick Goutal (2010) or Diptyque Philosykos (1996) may have a bit more to love in Cannabis Fruttata over Cannabis, but that just about defines the major differences between these perfumes. I still don't get how a cannabis fragrance relates to a claimed short-lived 1920's perfume house brought back from the dead, but I may just be cynical about the oft-abused historical market copy.

The overall vibe of Cannabis Fruttata is a classic exercise in chypre without the use of the critical ingredient oakmoss, which as I mentioned in my review for Cannabis, can be a huge deal breaker for the artisanal-fartisanal demographic or the folks who won't wear a fragrance made after 1990. An uptick of labdanum does veer this closer to smelling like a "proper" chypre, but I don't know if I enjoy it more. The dry bergamot in the top is met with galbanum, then is met with the same "garrigue" herbal melange which makes this smell like a cross between kitchen herbs and yard clippings. A milky fig and peach lactone bring in the "fruttata", then a heart of clary sage (less dominant than the original Cannabis) appears. There is some floral nuance here in the heart too, but the base is the same cashmeran, patchouli, and labdabum but with more of the latter, and a breathy ambergris vibe caused by ambroxan. Wear time and performance are average but a bit heavier than original Cannabis, and best use is casual spring and summer wear, preferably outdoors where smelling like an herb garden will be à propos with whatever you're doing.

What Bois 1920 here has made is another abstract ode to a substance I am still shocked people want to smell like, especially considering that marijuna isn't universally legal and smelling like anything even remotely resembling pot (even if woefully innacurate) can still end up giving you unwanted attention from police. Considering the political climate of 2019-2020, that may seem like an even bigger faux-pas depending on where you live, and a potentially dangerous one at that. Still, if I smelled this on a person, I'd not think of doobies or dimebags, but rather some old musty fruity citrus chypre sitting in grandma's closet (and I do love stuff like that by the way), which is the furthest thing from hippie commune there is in my mind, because if grandma was a hippie back in the day, she would know the smell of pot too, and this ain't it. Still, nice for what it is and if the price is right, worth looking into, although sampling may be tough without purchasing a decant. Luckily, splitters seem to love doling out this house's products in decant vials on eBay so that shouldn't be too difficult if you don't have a niche perfume store near you. Thumbs up.
11th September, 2020 (last edited: 12th September, 2020)

Cannabis by Bois 1920

Cannabis by Bois 1920 (2019) doesn't really smell like pot to me, but neither do many of the fragrances seeking to channel the vibe of marijuana, possibly because I lived around so many who grew or smoked it most of my life coming up on the streets of Baltimore. Despite that, the smell is pretty good if green grassy chypre accords are your thing, or old-fashioned interpretations of vetiver a la Guerlain. Bois 1920 is supposedly a revived perfume company from 1920 that only survived 5 years in its original incarnation, but has since expanded into a mid-tier niche outfit (inbetween $100-$200 at least), long past the point of claiming to recreate anything from its alleged history. So many houses in this market segment take this play straight from the Creed handbook of "how to niche" that I am no longer riled up by it, I just gloss over the backstory and go right to the perfume. At the heart of it, this is a "nu-chypre" devoid of oakmoss, but containing everything else that would earn it an academic gold star for an aromatic citrus chypre, so if you approach it that way, Cannabis is easier to process.

Speaking of the perfume, Cannabis is composed by Christian Calabro, who has mostly worked with niche houses like Bois 1920 and House of Oud, so there is a certain expected element of "olfactive exclusivity" which typically translates to rehashing styles of 40-50 years ago and passing it as more luxurious than the abstraction that stands in for mainstream designer perfumes. In this case, we get dry bergamot right in the top, galbanum, the "cannabis" note (which smells like a garrigue blend of Italian herbs to me), then a heart of clary sage. Lots and lots of clary sage comprise this heart, with zero lavender or geranium to uplift and sweeten it, so you're reminded of a Wiccan shop with baskets of smudge hanging for sale (don't ask where I've been). After that, it's vetiver, cashmeran, labdanum, and dry patchouli boom pow! Wear time is going to be about 7 hours ish and sillage isn't huge, as neither is projection. This feels very spring and maybe summer oriented to my nose, but fall isn't out of the question, and no... this is not work safe. Where I'd use Cannabis? A day spent outside where the extreme green elements feel most appropriate is a likely place.

The big thing about Cannabis is green notes and dry citrus over a dialed-in mossless chypre base that might do well enough for modern noses but without said oakmoss instantly strikes out with artisanal snobs or vintage boomerites caught in an olfactive timewarp. Someone I enjoy talking to mentioned a "futuristic hive nose beyond the reach of IFRA" that is likely more open to abstract interpretation bearing little resemblance to that source inspiration (like Le Labo products not smelling like how they're labelled and so on), and that makes sense to me as the target when smelling Cannabis by Bois 1920. If you like "garrigue" style green fragrances, this is one to look into, but if you're wanting an authentic interpretation of cannabis bud you can wear on skin, this one is not going to get it done. Bois 1920 is a bit tough to sample, but you can order decants from splitters online in the worst case, as the shock value of something like a perfume based around pot makes good profit fodder for decant sellers, since folks might pay for the experience but not want to own a full bottle. Thumbs up.
11th September, 2020 (last edited: 12th September, 2020)

Moschino pour Homme by Moschino

A lovely carnation sueded leather with a prickly peppered mace and rosemary/ lavender entry note. There is a big contrast here of soft carnation versus hardness of mace with a light background leather. Green rosemary/lavender versus warmth of amber and incense. This 1990's scent has a slightly out of bounds vibe while keeping a smoothly pressed demeanor. It is shiny smooth leather over paisley and chrome. I like it so I tried three different time periods of this discontinued gem and they are all more or less the same, and excellent.
11th September, 2020

Idole Eau de Parfum by Lubin

The opening is dark, slightly sweet, and has plenty of spice and incense. Very similar to the EDT having that great rum and coke feel, but it reminds me more of a refined Bay Rum or Old Spice scent. The drydown is the best (for me), being more wearable and pleasant than the opening. But to clarify, both are enjoyable.

Projection is good, not great, but can get heavy if oversprayed. Longevity is 10+ hours.
11th September, 2020
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Yuja by Jo Malone London

The Yuzu - or Korean Yuja is present in the opening, but the usual citrus freshness is attenuated by a herbal note that casts a shadow over it - mainly sage with whiffs of parsley and dried grass. This is never a crisp and bright fruit.

Fairly soon I get a balsamic impression. It is medium-dark, rich but not heavy, and indeed has a fair fir touch, with but a bit of pine also present at times.

Later on a cedar note arises, but it is a bit weak, serving more as a backdrop to the others that as a main player in its own right.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

A nice scent for cooler summer or warmer autumn days, crafted quite well and with an unusual combination of notes 3/5.
11th September, 2020

Fidelis by Histoires de Parfums

It appears I’ll be the only nay vote. I’m not getting any distinct notes, only the aftermath of a house fire - smoldering upholstery, hot electrical wiring and incinerated fiberglass insulation. I experienced the same visceral reaction to Purple Love Smoke by Soivohle.
11th September, 2020

Gold Woman by Amouage

First scenting was with an 80's sample.
First impression was "Madame Rochas in her evening gown bejeweled"
Civet,Ambergris and White Musk are blended in such a way as to support the heart's bouquet and provide a sly animalic. It is "weightier" than Contemporary formulations. More on that later.
Classic dance with Sandalwood and Rose which combined with Iris presents a Powdered Savon. Lovely!
Interesting is the topping of Muguet which offers a freshness and green nuance which in turn provides a gentle
backstop to the powder. Now the Diamonds and Pearls. This is provided by the Incense. Myrrh, for me, acts in the horizontal therefore a matte of earthy resin. The Frankincense, for me,acts in the vertical, therefore a mild Citric and ethereal airiness. The resins working together have my brain cells registering a tinkle-tinkle that brings me to a Magic Orgasmic.
A Robert masterpiece.
More later on the Contemporary Amouage formulation and a Generic oil
Contemporary still remains as a remarkable scent. There is the Robert finesse with updated ingredients. The Synth Musk is stronger and almost throws the balance.There is a slight Ambroxan rush. The original seems to have used a quality Ambergris. Most of us oldsters will miss the original animalic. The youngsters will appreciate the lighter presentation.

The Generic Oil is very good, however lacks the studied structure of the Vintage.

Madame Rochas is a beautiful scent and Vintage Gold offers an excellent build upon the MR beauty. All formulates are Genderless to my taste.
10th September, 2020 (last edited: 11th September, 2020)
Advertisement — Reviews continue below

Oviatt Show all reviews
United States

Dunhill Icon Elite by Dunhill

As a fan of the original Icon—and Dunhill fragrances in general—I was interested in the flankers of that very successful scent. Icon Elite is a very good scent and certainly takes the original Icon construct to a different place—a much woodier place. I do not get any citrus in the opening but I do get a strong turpentine note that I really love. Good, artist-quality turps, mind you—none of the DIY variety. I get that same note from Hermèssence Agar Ebène which is my favorite thing about that scent.
Icon Elite rapidly gets to the dry woods which are the centerpiece to this scent, underscored by sage and vetiver. Although not listed, I get a subtle musk in the base notes alongside the suede and even a hint of tonka. Elite is fresh, dry and very masculine and seems to be made of quality ingredients which is in line with the return to quality that the original Icon announced. As I write this (in Los Angeles), the sky is red with smoke, ashes are raining down, midday looks like twilight and the smell of smoke is everywhere; probably not the best environment in which to be reviewing a fragrance. That said, if Icon Elite can stand up to the smell of raging wildfires and still hold its own, that is saying something!
10th September, 2020

Lost by Miller Harris

My wife loves this on me so you know where this is going already.
Rhubarb rose petals blackcurrant amber fairly linear after the bergamot blast at the beginning. Great longevity. I can sense it wafting up to me for hours.
The tartness of the rhubarb just about pulls it from feminine to unisex and for me this is a very nice contrast to my politically incorrect masculine fragrances, a warm weather one to relax with and did I mention my wife loves it?
This could be my 3rd FBW from Miller Harris the other two being Feuilles de Tabac and Etui Noir.

Incidentally the ultra feminine version of this which has the BEST photorealistic florals is Tender.
10th September, 2020

Bleu de Chanel Parfum by Chanel

In a time where one new fragrance release leads to another four or five flankers - first the EdT, then the EdP and now the Parfum - Bleu de Chanel is a welcome addition.

Having tried the previous two iterations and being completely underwhelmed, Bleu de Chanel Parfum enters as the crowd-pleaser that Chanel is so good at putting together.

Inoffensive and totally versatile as anything I have ever put my nose to, the top notes of BdC Parfum mesmerise even to this day. Some list mint, others geranium and others just call it Blue (it's not! it's Bleu!!!). Whatever the top notes comprise, I get some very good synthetics combining freshly-squeezed citrus-grade freshness with luscious woods that I can't stop smelling. Some of the citrus is clearly dihydromyrcenol (DHM), but it is so tamed here and used very sensibly so as not to offend (I'm looking at you Dior!!).

The woods and indeed the classic Chanel tonka note in the base of BdC Parfum are what sets it apart from the EdT and EdP. Yes, there is amberwood here, but no harsh "incense" (if that's what you call it), just a classic men's scent - citrus/fresh top with a woody base. Admirers of classics like Chanel Pour Monsieur, YSL Pour Homme, Armani Eau Pour Homme should pay attention and sample this, as should anyone crazy enough to want to spend on Roja Dove's Elysium.

Rarely does a scent like BdC Parfum come to the market this side of the millennium. I bought a bottle the day it was released in 2018 and received a couple of compliments from work colleagues not long after from just 1-2 sprays. Given how versatile/easy to wear this is, I doubt I'll ever be without a bottle. If only I'd gone for the largest size bottle. Top marks, Chanel!
10th September, 2020

Moschino pour Homme by Moschino

It's hard to believe a brand like Moschino could create a fragrance like this. But of course that was 1990, when everything was unique and manly smelled, well, manly.

Despite some harshness in the top notes (probably due to the age of the bottle that my sample was drawn from), Moschino Pour Homme smells like the love child of Hermes Bel Ami and Caron 3rd Man. Why? Because Bel Ami gives it the leathery-woody dry down (very aromatic) and the Caron has the clove/carnation heart which the Moschino maintains right the way through the heart to the extreme dry down.

Sadly, scents are no longer made like this, but the scent is reminiscent of better times - no sugary/syrup-like sweetness. Just bitter, dry, earthy/leathery goodness.
10th September, 2020
DanHD Show all reviews
United States

Monsieur. by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

I really enjoy this one. It feels like a modern patchouli and I wear it to the office, whereas other patches have to wait until the weekend. I like Bruno Jovanovic's sensibility on this one and also Almost Transparent Blue.
10th September, 2020
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Leather & Artemisia by Jo Malone London

When I applied the opening blast I got orris woods straight from the start. There was some artemisia is present too, adding a touch of spirit.

The next things I got was nagarmotha, here with characteristics of a bright and slightly tangy patchouli, and a restrained frankincense impression that is smooth but does not have much of a ceremonious feeling to it - unlike, for instance, Etro’s Messe à Minuit.

Whatever absinthe I got was very weak and perfunctory only, but the leather, a late developer on me, evolved after a couple of hours eventually. Smooth, new Nappa leather, without any harshness or gasoline character - like an antithesis to Knize Ten.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and a an excellent ten hours of longevity on my skin.

This is a good scent for warmer autumn days. A bit linear at times, and with some disappointing notes, but overall not without an original touch and delivering a very good performance. 3.25/5.
10th September, 2020

Bulgari Man Glacial Essence by Bulgari

Feels like a typical, masculine blue freshie. Not much sweetness to it. The freshness is clean and citrusy sharp, which does remind me of the original Bulgari Man. Maybe some nice, clean white florals in the opening and early drydown. Later, it feels a lot like Bulgari Man, which is nice, a fresh, spicy, woody scent that’s more versatile than the Glacial opening.

Really good projection during the first hours. Calms down after that but still hangs around most of the day.
10th September, 2020

Lui by Mazzolari


I dont find this animalic. Its a dank patchouli. Its got some fruity background flavors, and a creamy somewhat pissy air about it. Its a patchouli in the way Givenchy Gentleman is, with 70s patch. Its got sweet amber woody chems fron 2006 as its base. Those aromachems are no longer so novel. Something in the base smeks cheap to me. There are better blends. Low neutral.
10th September, 2020

Fat Electrician by Etat Libre d'Orange

Playdough Vetiver

I get rooty vetiver, almost ashy, but not quite. Below that is a gross plasticy playdough vanilla. Its a poorly done note. There is some blended spices in the far back, id suppose thats the frankincense and myrh, but it just reads as a tiny bit of spice rack whispering. The balance is off, though there arent really any sharp edges, the vetiver and vanilla do not mesh, and are sort of like two rocks sitting together. Not well done in my opinion.
10th September, 2020
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Ginger Biscuit by Jo Malone

What strikes me first is the caramel, the cinnamon and the hazelnut. A pleasant trio, with the hazelnut being dominant on me; a hazelnut that is crafted well indeed.

In the drydown I find the ginger, which is discreet and more in the background and more of an accompaniment than playing the solo fiddle. Whiffs of a faint oak note come and go.
There is a good tonka impression developing too, especially in the later stages, some vanilla also, and a restrained spiciness due to a nutmeg impression that adds additional depth to the whole.

I get moderate sillage, good projection, and a very good ten hours of longevity on my skin.

Quite a bright autumn scent for warmer days with a gourmand feeling towards the end. The ginger is maybe a bit too bland in me, and sone ingredients are not particularly vivid, but overall this a respectable composition. 3/5.
09th September, 2020

Into the Void by Juliette Has a Gun

The opening is dark and mature with plenty of whiskey, oily leather, and musk. Not getting a lot of licorice but the sweet tonka starts to come out in the drydown. Also getting some sweet, dried fruits. The late drydown is smokey and dry, but still tolerable.

This is serious, dark and sexy but just too darn mature for me. I don't know the occasion or mood I'd need to find for this but I'm sure others will love this because it is unique. It's very interesting and has enough to like to not be super-polarizing.

Strong projection and all-day longevity.
09th September, 2020

Thai Tabac by Ensar Oud

A dense, woodsy, dark floriental that probably best captures the feeling of wearing a sophisticated attar in EDP/Extrait spray form.

The fragrance opens with an absolutely narcotic, almost druggy jasmine, champaca and tobacco combo anchored in patchouli, vetiver and sandalwood. There are hints of toffee/vanilla, but this is far from a gourmand affair. Instead, the perfume radiates waves of what you might imagine opium smoke to smell like - trance inducing and hypnotic. This perfume is truly unisex and would find an excellent partner in a well-dressed woman or a man with a dark leather jacket on. I would wear this for a night out with close friends or a loved one, to a special occasion, or in my evening clothes, as a respite from the outside world.

In my view, this perfume is a masterpiece. Any lover of attars and oriental fragrances should give this a shot. It is also very very expensive, as with all of Ensar's perfumes.
08th September, 2020
rbaker Show all reviews
United Kingdom

Myrrh & Tonka by Jo Malone London

The lavender in the opening is a fairly traditional version, except that it is lighter and brighter than expected. Still, it is rich enough to satisfy.

The drydown brings in the myrrh, Omumbiri myrrh apparently, and it dark-ishly herbal smooth with gently spicy underdone. A bit later on, I get some nice fresh sweet almonds in the background, together with the tonka that is a bit tardy in making its appearance as promised by the name of this creation.

The base continues the tonka, only that there is a gradual mixing in the the vanilla, so that both, as well as the almond, merge into a sweet fest towards the end, truly leading to a gourmand finish.

I get moderate sillage, very good projection and an excellent ten hours of longevity on my skin.

A lovely scent for warmer spring days, rich and soft and standing on it own feet without the need to be layered like so many Jo Malones. The development is a bit linear at times, but the quality of the ingredients is very good, as in their blending. 3.25/5.
08th September, 2020

Extract of West Indian Limes / Extract of Limes by Geo F Trumper

Sparkly, sugared lime. Sweet enough to start smelling a bit fake, but the uplifting lime jellybean aroma is fun and pleasant.

A few minutes later, the lime is overtaken by earthy, musky lavender and the whole thing gets a bit soapy. I can smell the remnants of the lime, but this is really a lavender scent for most of its life.

So, I think the topnotes are fun but kind of silly and short-lived, and the lavender is acceptable but unremarkable. I think I have to vote neutral.
08th September, 2020

Lime by Caswell-Massey

Eeeeww.... Soapy lemon & lime with undertones of bleach, ammonia, and poop. This smells like someone cleaning a stinky toilet with a lime-scented cleaner. Or maybe someone throwing a lemon into a hot washing machine full of stinky clothes.

I'm familiar with the concept of classic British musky civet citrus colognes (Trumper and Czech & Speake come to mind), and I can see that's what this was trying for, but this is a mess.
08th September, 2020

Shem-el-Nessim by Grossmith

Yup, this smells a lot like L'Heure Bleue. That being said, L'Heure is really difficult to pick apart, thanks largely to the powder that cloaks it. Nessim, however, isn't very powdery, so it's less mysterious. That being said, it's still a hard smell to describe.

So what does it smell like? Sort of like yeasted bread dough with hints of pie spices, with touches of clove, suede, and iris. There's vanilla in there, and honeyed beeswax and sandalwood. It's also got that old-fashioned leather from Knize Ten. But really, it all melts together into rich, honeyed dough. It's too leathery and "perfumey" to be a gourmand, but it has the sweet richness of the genre.

I'm a huge L'Heure Bleue fan, and I can't see needing a bottle of this when I have my Bleue extrait close at hand, but there's no way I can give this anything other than a thumbs up. Nicely done.
08th September, 2020

Pour Un Homme L'Eau by Caron

An improved, modernized version of the original but there is still plenty of soft, powdery lavender. Nice citrus in the opening that quickly gives way to the overwhelming Pour un Homme smell that serves as a reference lavender. Not sure why but it feels kinda cheap at this stage. Later, the lavender fades and it’s just a pleasant, light scent that is actually way better than the middle. Actually feels nice and refined in the deep drydown.

I actually feel like the projection is impressive during the first few hours. I could really smell it jumping off my skin. When it settles, it’s not nearly as powerful but you can still easily smell it when leaning in for a sniff. Lasts most of the day.
08th September, 2020