Use of ARTEMISIA in fragrances

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  1. shamu1
    Artemisia (aka wormwood) is listed in the pyramids of so many power fragrances, but I don't think I actually know what it smells like now. I've always assumed it's a sharp, bitter note that's in stuff like Krizia Uomo and One Man Show, but now I'm starting to doubt myself.

    So I guess I'm calling on you guys to chime in here (PerfumeCollector, are you there??) and tell us more about this note, what it smells like, what frags make really prominent use of it, why it's a power note, etc..
  2. PerfumeCollector
    Artemisia is a green, sharp, bitter note that by itself is rather unpleasant, but it gives balance to sweet floral notes bringing the combination to a higher level.
    "Absinthe" a very popular alcoholic beverage in Europe that owes its name due to the fact that is made with Artemisia absinthium (also known as wormwood) and with Anise. Artemisia and Anise kinda complement each other. It is so bitter that it has to be drunk with a sugar cube.
    Vermouth is also wine with artemisia Wermuth is the german name for artemisia (wormwood).
    If you have drunk Absinthe, you know how artemisia smells (and tastes). Absinthe opens with this brutal green bitter taste that is latter smoothed by the anise. If you really want to know how artemisia smells, get a bottle of absinthe and give it a try, but be warned, have a sugar cube (or two) at reach because it is so bitter that would make you mouth to pucker like never before.
    At any rate, artemisia confers this masculine aura to perfumes becauses it hides the sweetness or fruitiness of some notes without losing the heart of the scent itself. It is hard to explain, but a cloying note becames smoother and it is easier to the nose.
    Almost any perfume with artemisia is very masculine.
  3. santino
    Artemisia is prominent is One Man Show as you said, but also brilliantly done in Aramis. Aramis is the reference fragrance in terms of artemisia for me. I opened Fragrantica's artemisia page and there are power fragrances that have artemisia. I am fortunate that way because both my parents are doctors in botany and can distinctly tell plants by its smell. My dad once told me that it smells pungent, bitter and sharp. From that, I can imagine Aramis and OMS have that note.
    Regarding Krizia, I have been told that if you have Paco Rabanne, Quorum, Polo and Pino Silvestere, you dont need Krizia. Shamu, what do you say, I think you mentioned somewhere that its one of your favorites?
  4. santino
    Since, PC mentioned vermouth, I am aware that it is also an ingredient of martini. Being a martini fan, I get instant connection. That brings me to another question. Is Artemisia responsible for giving a cologne, a boozy nature?
  5. PerfumeCollector
    Well, well, well, I beg to differ Santino, Krizia is a star that shines on its own, I own all those perfumes you just mentioned, but Krizia will be always in my rotation, and perharps will be used more frecuently that any of the other perfumes you just mentioned.
  6. PerfumeCollector
    Martini & Rossi is a brand of vermouth and the drink martini actually is called as such because you add vermouth (Martini & Rossi) to gin (or vodka), other brands of Vermouth came later.
    The note artemisia does not bring a boozy feeling to the perfume, what it does is to bring down the cloyingness (is that a word?) of some notes making them more "palatable" if you get my drift.
  7. shamu1
    Santino, being a huge fan of all the frags you listed, I have say that Krizia Uomo smells nothing like any of those. The only thing Krizia has in common with them is that it's also a powerhouse. Krizia Uomo, like PC said, surely stands on its own and is worthy of any power wearer's wardrobe. The only scent that I think Krizia is similar to is One Man Show, and I much prefer it over OMS.
  8. santino
    Its coming in my wardrobe soon then. One thing I love about powerhouse fragrances is that they are relatively inexpensive. Hell, I'd pay 200 bucks for VC&A.
  9. santino
    I have been digging online literature on artemisia and trying to smell whatever fragrances I have in my wardrobe. One very striking use of artemisia appears to be in Kouros. I guess it helps in holding the balance between dirty and clean. Wow! I always thought how can a fragrance be dirty and clean at the same time? There should be a balancing note. What do you say PC?
  10. PerfumeCollector
    Artemisia smells clean indeed, the bitter, sharp, pungent smells resembles desinfectant somewhat and that balances the civet making Kouros oscillate between clean and dirty. But that is not all about artemisia, it adds much much depth to certain notes, to me it acts like a filter neutralizing the more prominent smells of a note enabling you to perceive the more subtle components of a note.
    Let say rose, a very complex note, however there are two or three components of the rose note that dominate, in the presence of artemisia you can examine the more subtle and deep components by hiding somewhat the sharper elements. It is difficult to explain, but artemisia, to me, is like 3D glasses that opens a whole better appreciation of the scent.
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