Louis Vuitton arrives back in the fragrance industry. Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud is in-house nose.

02nd September, 2016

Louis Vuitton has launched seven new fragrances after an absence from the perfume world for 70 years. In celebration of the launch the company have opened five pop-up stores in Paris, London, Seoul and Dubai.


Perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud
News that Vuitton were creating a perfume line began in 2011 when Marc Jacobs (who was Vuitton’s creative director from 1997 – 2014) told WWD, "There’s no Vuitton Beauté. At this moment, there is no fragrance although we’re working on that."

In January 2012, perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud began working at Vuitton as their in-house nose. Cavallier was born in Grasse to a family of perfumers and worked at Charabot, Quest International (now part of Givaudan), and in 1990 began at Firmenich, where he remained until the Vuitton appointment. Cavallier has created countless classic fragrances over the course of his career including Acqua di Gio pour Homme (Armani); L’Eau d’Issey and L’Eau d’Issey pour Homme; Classique (Jean Paul Gaultier), Opium pour Homme (YSL) and many more…

 


Je, Tu, Il (left), Heures d'Absence (right)

The company is no stranger to perfume – as well as being part of the LVMH Group, which counts Guerlain, Dior and Givenchy amongst its brands –Vuitton’s first foray into perfumes was in the early part of the last century, with seven fragrances: Reminiscences, Sur la Route, Eau de Voyage, Heures d’Absence and finally in 1946, Je Tu Il, which was three different interlocking perfume bottles in one package. (Sidenote: Louis Vuitton has re-registered the trademark for ‘Je, Tu, il’ earlier this year.)

 

The new fragrances are:

Rose des Vents

Inspired by a desire to compose a fragrance that is as airy as it is silky soft, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud transports us to Grasse, to the middle of a field of centifolia roses. But there is nothing nostalgic or syrupy about this May rose. Buffeted by the wind, it is vibrant. Listen carefully and you could almost hear it breathe.

Notes include: Centifolia absolute, Turkish rose essence, Bulgarian rose essence, Florentine iris, Virginia cedar and Pepper.

Turbulences

Discovering faraway lands can sometimes feel like
an upheaval. A leap into the void, like the feeling one has in an aeroplane soaring above the clouds. There is a fleeting fear that makes the heart beat faster, subside and then surge anew.

Notes include: Tuberose, Grasse jasmine grandiflorum, Jasmine sambac absolute, Chinese magnolia, May rose and Leather.

Dans La Peau

Does absence embolden desire? Travelling also has that power: to spark amorous embraces.

From these torrid evocations, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud has dreamt up an encounter as indelible as an imprint.

An exclusive infusion of natural leather from Louis Vuitton’s workshops makes you want to surrender to a passionate embrace.

Notes include: Leather, Candied apricot, Grasse jasmine, Chinese jasmine sambac, Narcissus absolute, Chinese magnolia and Musks.

Apogée

Some getaways let us reconnect with ourselves. We come
up against the immensity of nature, the raw green of a
dense forest, the silence of a still lake, the vertigo of a high mountain peak. And in this communion with the planet, normality gives way to what is essential: at every moment, being sensitive to beauty is all it takes to be reborn. Eternally.

Notes include: Lily of the valley, Grasse jasmine, Chinese magnolia, Grasse may rose, Guaiac wood and Sandalwood.

Contre Moi

To promise the ends of the earth. To dare reveal oneself unadorned. Contre Moi evokes the fusion of two travellers. A sensual outpouring that tantalises and lets emotions rush to the surface.

Notes include: Madagascan vanilla, Tahitensis vanilla, Orange blossom, Grasse rose centifolia, Magnolia essence, Bitter cocoa and Ambrette seed.

Matière Noire

Exploring the universe is the ultimate travel fantasy and remains the most thrilling adventure. It’s a cosmic saga that nourishes the collective imagination and plunges us into intense obscurity. Darkness so deep, opaque and intangible that time warps and the impossible becomes reality.

Notes include: Laos agarwood, Blackcurrant, White narcissus, Sambac jasmine, Centifolia rose, Cyclamen, Incense and Benzoin.

Mille Feux

A golden ray, a starlit sky, the northern lights: light contributes to the magic of travel. Especially when it illuminates everything in its path, setting fields ablaze at sunset, bleaching roofs in broad daylight and biting the skin with a coppery glow.

Notes include: Louis vuitton leather infusion, Chinese osmanthus, Iris concrete, Saffron and Raspberry accord.

 

The packaging

The bottles for the fragrances have been created by Marc Newson. The company say “At a time when some still believe that luxury is a function of the weight of glass, the Maison Louis Vuitton frees the perfume bottle from the constraints of the past. Shouldn’t real luxury mean elevating the most everyday gestures?

Clean lines are devoid of any embellishment. A drop of water, suspended. Black lettering on transparent glass. Even the brand name engraved in the glass remains discreet, revealing itself in relief to the fingertips or through a ray of light.”

The white and gold paper packaging replicates the cylindrical silhouette of Je, tu, il.

 


The face of the line is actress Léa Seydoux

Advertising campaign

The face of the advertising campaign is French actress Léa Seydoux (Blue is the Warmest Color, Spectre), who has previously featured in campaigns for Prada Candy). The campaign was shot by photographer Patrick Demarchelier in South Africa. Seydoux says “Louis Vuitton is about travel, but it’s also about dreams. Its spirit blends adventure, discovery and emotion. I am very honored to embody this universe.”

 


The pop-up store in Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche, Paris

Pop-up stores

Five Louis Vuitton parfum pop-up stores are launching throughout September

The iconic Damier pattern which will adorn the counters, showcases a classical yet very modern interpretation of Louis Vuitton’ signatures. For certain locations such as in Printemps Haussmann, Dubai Mall and Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche, a special wave structure made with the packaging of the collection has been developed to introduce 7 fragrances.

A “Consultation Trunk” crafted in Louis Vuitton’s historical workshop will also be displayed at the Dubai Mall and Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche, inviting visitors to discover the raw materials used by Jacques Cavallier Belletrud Louis Vuitton Master Perfumer to create the fragrances.

The pop-up stores are located at:

  • PRINTEMPS HAUSSMANN – From August 27th to October 22nd, 2016
    64, boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris
  • LE BON MARCHE RIVE GAUCHE – From September 1st to October 1st, 2016
    24, rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris
  • DUBAI MALL – From September 1st to September 18th, 2016 Grand Atrium, the Dubai Mall
  • HARRODS – From September 1st to October 22nd, 2016
    87-135 Brompton Rd, London SW1X 7XL
  • SHINSEGAE GANGNAM – From September 19th to October 10th, 2016
    176, Sinbanpo-ro, Seocho-gu, Seoul

Each of the seven Louis Vuitton perfumes is available in: 200ml, 100ml, travel bottle with four cartridges of 7.5ml and a box of seven 10ml miniatures. The fragrances are available at the pop-up stores, and selected Louis Vuitton boutiques.

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    Comments

      • hednic | 2nd September 2016 16:01

        Wish there were a pop-up store somewhere close to me.

      • rulopbo | 2nd September 2016 18:00

        Bottles look nice, the notes not...

        Interesting that it says he created ADG... Was this a colab with Morillas?

        Interested in a line for men...

      • Grant | 2nd September 2016 18:31

        @rulopbo AFAIK Morillas did the women's AdG, Cavallier, the mens one

      • rulopbo | 2nd September 2016 19:03

        Had no idea about this... Thank you Grant... My interest in a possible men´s release is even greater now...

      • Max Magnus | 2nd September 2016 19:21

        Wow, excited to try them, since Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud often collaborated with Alberto Morillas (one of my favorite perfumers) on great projects, not to mention the legendary M7!

        his creations:

        http://www.nstperfume.com/perfumers-a-to-e/jacques-cavallier/

        I hate the "niche" looking bottles, same for every perfume. Originality is expected from great designer houses, copying is not...

      • Clarissochka | 3rd September 2016 03:58

        The whole fragrance testing experience is neat at their shops

        They first spray on cards (and the card have names)

        Then they put the cards in the envelopes and tell you to sniff after 10 mins. I guess you could spray on skn but mine was contaminated after a visit to Le Labo counter.

        There was little sales pressure which I appreciated. The staff all was telling me about their likes and dislikes - it was a nice experience.

        I tried Mille Feux and loved it. It is pretty feminine and I am a sucker for Osmanthus.

      • adam090273 | 3rd September 2016 05:03

        i think previously they have only ever released one fragrance, if I am not mistaken. Would love to know what price an original bottle would sell for.

        Anyway guess we will have to be content with a new line, interested in trying these. Was looking at LV Aus website the other day and noticed they were advertising the line. Need to go back and check it out further.

      • jabar | 3rd September 2016 05:08

        Bottles look like something I'd expect from my Hilton or Hyatt full-service hotel room bathroom.

      • Sea Roses | 3rd September 2016 11:01

        There have been three Louis Vuitton perfumes over it's history. They have lost the formula's and the perfumes have turned significantly.

        The price for an original would be up there with *the postbox* trunk the son of Louis Vuitton made for his correspondence.

      • adam090273 | 3rd September 2016 11:21

        Interesting. Thanks.

        I'll do some further reading on this especially the post box trunk.

      • hednic | 3rd September 2016 14:08

        Wasn't aware of that.