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  1. Replies
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    Some tuberose headspace results

    Not that we haven't had headspace results before, but one that's new to me. This is for Calcutta Single:

    Methyl benzoate 504.262.48
    Methyl salicylate 227.57.07
    Benzyl salicylate 241.37.77 ...
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    Re: Megamare GC-MS

    Some GC/MS figures posted I simply cannot believe.

    I am not doubting the posters were provided the figures, but the figures (or interpretations) themselves.
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    Re: resource for compounds of EOs?

    The Essential Oils University Database is pretty good.

    Eden Botanicals, Plant Therapy, and HBNO often have excellent GC/MS reports, commonly more detailed than the above.
  4. Re: How would you replicate the GOOD-SMELLING aspect of OUD, without using one iota of oud?

    :)

    I'm glad it helped!
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    Re: The cost to open business

    Thank you for that recommendation!

    Btw I see the Polish shop has Tonquitione. And not to beat a dead horse but there have been and are huge issues with regard to US-retailed Tonquitone so this...
  6. Re: How would you replicate the GOOD-SMELLING aspect of OUD, without using one iota of oud?

    Other than that it is also called clovanyl-3-formate, which TGSC doesn't mention, I know nothing on it but thought that having the more common name might help.
  7. Re: Possible new source -- but possible red flag

    What then if a US retailer buys from them and has no quality inspection? They, by their own account, perform no GC/MS even though they own one, nor send out for analysis, and by their own account...
  8. Re: Possible new source -- but possible red flag

    Specifically, ethyl phenylacetate, ethyl hexanoate, and ethyl octanoate I do not expect in rose absolute. For example they are not in any of the ones in the the Essential Oils University database....
  9. Re: Possible new source -- but possible red flag

    I will have to look at the original manufacturer's CoA (not PA's redacted version) to be specific on why I don't find it consistent with anything but a recon.

    But generally, I saw thickeners of...
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    Re: The cost to open business

    I would have to disagree both with being a legend, I for sure nowhere near rate that, and with disagreeing with Mike above. I agree completely with his points.

    A good example would be trouble I...
  11. Re: Possible new source -- but possible red flag

    Hmm, while I still think it's an interesting comparison to put the EssentialOil.in "Rose Nature Identical" up against the 13x more expensive Perfumer's Apprentice "Rose Absolute (Blend)" that for a...
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    Re: The cost to open business

    In the US.

    I do absolutely appreciate it's harder in the UK.

    PCW in Grasse seems very promising but is pretty new to us here in the forum. I have not ordered from them yet. I believe Mike has....
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    Re: excel sheet formula lock?

    Maybe "locking" could be this:

    I don't myself do formulas with mindless fillers such as Galaxolide 200, Hedione 200, Iso-E Super 150, Methyl Ionone 150 and then everything else fits into just 300...
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    Re: The cost to open business

    Hopefully it will!

    As for knocking myself out, seriously, I don't find it the slightest bit of trouble to not order from Perfumer's World.
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    Re: excel sheet formula lock?

    Someone can probably tell you better but I will have a column that totals to whatever it totals to, and then a column adjacent to that which divides according to the sum of that column,

    E.g.,for...
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    Re: The cost to open business

    The bottles sound the same. They do indeed look like they shouldn't leak, but they have for not just myself.

    I don't at all disagree with reporting one's experience. My meaning is that for people...
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    Re: The cost to open business

    Nothing leaked in a single order.

    I agree it looks like those bottles are bombproof against leaking, but they are not. Quite a few people have reported leaks. My one order had a severe leak. Very...
  18. Re: Possible new source -- but possible red flag

    Will do.
  19. Re: Possible new source -- but possible red flag

    Thirty bucks.
  20. Re: Possible new source -- but possible red flag

    Well I threw caution to the wind and bit the bullet, and I overused metaphors too.

    So we will see.

    Bergamotene 20ml $2.99
    Longifolene 20ml $2.99
    Methyl Salicylate 20ml $2.99
    Phenyl Ethyl...
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    Re: The cost to open business

    PW Perfumer's World, or PW Pell Wall?

    When I have ordered from Pell Wall, while the shipping has been pricey the delivery time has been quick.
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    Re: The cost to open business

    Indeed. Shipping can be nightmarish and is another example of the totally uneven playing field. The big boys with their lobbying and other power get taxpayer-subsidized USPS shipping and great rates...
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    Re: The cost to open business

    I don't have a fragrance business.

    But, I recall specifically the first commercial formula I did (which project I had as a cosmetic formulator, not a Perfumer) I billed the client at cost for...
  24. Re: Possible new source -- but possible red flag

    Thank you, Paul!

    I actually got interested in longifolene only this morning, out of seeing it is a component of Oakmoss Givco, and seeing interesting claimed organoleptics of sweet woody rose...
  25. Re: Possible new source -- but possible red flag

    The Ylang is under the nature-identical. It's not represented as being pure ylang oil, but a mix of "essential oils, absolutes, and aromachemicals."

    The Neroli is under the "Absolutes" section...
  26. Possible new source -- but possible red flag

    Coincidentally twice now in 2 days I have come across this site having otherwise unobtainium (for the mortal) items:

    http://www.essentialoil.in/longifolene.html...
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    Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    2:1
  28. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands? (EDIT, CP has new owner)

    Certainly. One can also put in parentheses the better known name that the product compares to.

    Another way is to give synonyms on the side.

    Both PSH and PA manage this fine. It is not hard.
    ...
  29. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands? (EDIT, CP has new owner)

    Today marks a month since I brought up to Alora the misbranding issue -- some products on the website are not of the brands claimed, or otherwise are not by the manufacturer claimed, at least not if...
  30. Re: Most pleasing aroma chemical you've smelled?

    OUCH!!!!! :laugh:
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    Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    It does seem many times too cheap.

    I see they use the less-reputable-retailers trick of keeping from you any of the original documentation, providing only their own.

    For example, the price...
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    Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Not really. SDS's ordinarily give ranges which can be pretty broad, such as 2-5 times or even 10 times, such as 0.1-1%.

    On occasion SDS values are fairly precise, but that's more the exception...
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    Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    It (the Payan Bertrand at PW) is a mixture of the natural extract together with other ingredients both natural and synthetic, per the provided documentation.
    ...
  34. Re: Good supplier for Choya Loban and other Choyas?

    Hi Austin,

    I have never bought any Choyas from WLA or elsewhere. If my post sounded as if I had, it wasn't what was meant. It was only a comment on some retailers (WLA never did) IMO abusing the...
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    Re: Helvetolide

    :)

    .
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    Re: Helvetolide

    Zenolide. (Mentioned both because true, and because it gets little love here it seems.)
  37. Re: Terpeneless Geranium EO From Perfumer's Supply House & Robertet Geranium Heart

    Not really, for my purposes.

    I could tell changes in what is eluted as it goes* by nose, and where wishing to identify materials just for the sake of knowledge, could send off collected materials...
  38. Re: Terpeneless Geranium EO From Perfumer's Supply House & Robertet Geranium Heart

    Looking forward to their answer! :)
  39. Re: Terpeneless Geranium EO From Perfumer's Supply House & Robertet Geranium Heart

    Btw, somewhat along these lines, if I were to have a major financial success such as a great licensing deal, etc,, I would really want to get a 200-or-so-theoretical-plates spinning band distillation...
  40. Re: Terpeneless Geranium EO From Perfumer's Supply House & Robertet Geranium Heart

    That would be very interesting.

    I have found Ungerer hard to get answers from, it took me weeks and many e-mails and even phone calls merely to verify that items were food grade, but you may have...
  41. Re: had anyone order essential oil/absolute/extract from US to UK? how bad the VAT is?

    I sympathize that you are not at all pleased with your purchase.

    In many years of purchase, I have never had such troubles with a single item from Eden Botanicals nor have I have seen such...
  42. Re: Terpeneless Geranium EO From Perfumer's Supply House & Robertet Geranium Heart

    It certainly would! :)
  43. Re: Terpeneless Geranium EO From Perfumer's Supply House & Robertet Geranium Heart

    Btw i am going to guess that it is the heavier (and more substantive) sesquiterpenes that make the key difference between the Terpeneless and regular Geranium oils rather than the trace amounts of...
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    Re: The Sandalwood Game Proposal & Entries

    Why, oh why, didn't I mail mine in earlier! (Part of the reason was uncertainty at the Post Office whether I had your town right, which had me miss mailing that day, but even so.)

    This reminds me...
  45. Re: Understanding "blenders" in The Good Scents Company entries

    Ordinarily when having absolutely no idea, I figure no reason for me to reply and don't, but this morning I didn't want it to seem your question was ignored.

    I have seen this for years and have...
  46. Re: Terpeneless Geranium EO From Perfumer's Supply House & Robertet Geranium Heart

    Also a little bit of pinenes but they aren't very potent, myrcene, and beta ocimene. It really depends on which Geranium GC/MS one is looking at.

    The EB Geranium Egypt, which I very much like,...
  47. Re: Terpeneless Geranium EO From Perfumer's Supply House & Robertet Geranium Heart

    Citronellol and geraniol are alcohols (terpenoid alcohols) rather than terpenes, as terpenes have nothing but carbons and hydrogens, in the ratio of 8 hydrogens per 5 carbons.

    It's a very...
  48. Re: Directory of common essential oils / extracts and their GC/MS

    Thank you very much!

    Very nice!
  49. Re: I got my first ingredients. How not to screw up?

    Oh, the symbol says €, which I took to be Euros: https://theperfumeryschool.com/training/

    Perhaps we are looking at different sites. I found nothing for "parfschool" but tried "perfschool" as...
  50. Re: Some "classic ingredients" median use values

    :)

    You're very welcome!
  51. Re: Some "classic ingredients" median use values

    Hazel, the formula with 10 parts per thousand Civet Absolute was Appell's take on Coty Chypre:

    225 Brg
    5 Com 10%
    35 Est 100/0
    25 SgC
    25 Org tpl 10%
    5 Me Sal 10%
    40 Jas abs
    360
  52. Good News: Generous People on Yahoo Perfumemaking Group saved the data. Here's the link

    https://groups.io/g/perfumemaking/files

    You may need to create an account.

    Some nice blasts from past, particularly...
  53. Re: Some "classic ingredients" median use values

    The TGSC formulas are not at all drawn from commercial, proprietary perfume formulas or analyses of these, but from various publications.

    Some of the formulas may be awful for this reason.

    I'm...
  54. Re: What are the 3 most beautiful captives released in recent years?

    I guess it depends on the definition of "captive."

    It's not a particular molecule, and I am fairly sure there have been other biotechnology largely-patchoulol products, but I think Firmenich's...
  55. Re: Terpeneless Geranium EO From Perfumer's Supply House & Robertet Geranium Heart

    Oh, in that case maybe I misimagined your perception of it! :)

    Still it's an exceedingly atypical amount. However, some decades ago anyone would be saying that of various usages that are popular...
  56. Re: What are the 3 most beautiful captives released in recent years?

    I guess I only have three -- Edenolide, Clearwood, and Cascalone -- so can only say those three.

    If I had Dreamwood Base than I might have to kick one of those out. (Though really Dreamwood itself...
  57. Re: Terpeneless Geranium EO From Perfumer's Supply House & Robertet Geranium Heart

    I'm puzzled how you smell benzyl salicylate very well, while most find it faint, yet you use it at exceedingly unusually high percentages.

    I am not saying the result must smell bad to others, and...
  58. Re: Some "classic ingredients" median use values

    Thank you, Big L!

    I didn't manage to get on the computer at home at all last night, so will try this evening instead.

    A separate website would be great also.

    Btw, as I'm sure you've...
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    Re: General question

    Those numbers are fractions of the total.

    For example say the total is 1000. It doesn't have to be, it could be different.

    Then the "140 Alpha Ionone" means that ingredient is 140/1000 of the...
  60. Re: I got my first ingredients. How not to screw up?

    The only classes I see there are 595,00 €, and no free formulas.
  61. Re: Some "classic ingredients" median use values

    Only just a couple of days ago I saw your plugin, having missed it when originally posted, but had no luck adding to Chrome onmy work computer. I'm really looking forward to using it, and will try on...
  62. Re: Most pleasing aroma chemical you've smelled?

    On Cassis Base being a mixture:

    Also vetiverol, I learned recently, is very much a mix of things rather than being anything like a particular molecule.

    I think Shangralide is a mixture too.
  63. Re: What are the 3 most beautiful captives released in recent years?

    Who is selling this?

    Neither Vigon nor Ventos distribute it, that I can find.
  64. Re: Terpeneless Geranium EO From Perfumer's Supply House & Robertet Geranium Heart

    I am not the best for talking about what constitutes "heart" vs top or base, but I would call the Terpeneless at the more lasting end of top or the shorter lasting end of mid.

    Certainly much less...
  65. Re: Some "classic ingredients" median use values

    It sure as heck does.

    The most I see in TGSC formulas is 10 ppt for overall formulas and more commonly such as 3-5 or less, and 20 or 22 for Tuberose bases. When adding individually to an overall...
  66. Re: Some "classic ingredients" median use values

    Formula now in post #18.
  67. Re: Some "classic ingredients" median use values

    You're very welcome, Mike!

    Hazel, formulas were from the old Yahoo Perfumemaking group and Yahoo decided to obliterate everything their members ever contributed to their groups. They gave an...
  68. Re: Recommend some aquatics. woods, and musks

    It's been mentioned a bit lately but dihydro beta ionone is a nice woody molecule that complements others well and usually (it seems) doesn't get all the mention I think it deserves. Alpha-ionol can...
  69. Some "classic ingredients" median use values

    While looking for something else I found this old file I had put together. It will not be useful to anyone already familiar with the ingredients, but maybe for some new to any of the ingredients it...
  70. Re: DIPG (Dypropilene Glycol) in TGSC.com Demo Formulas

    Ordinarily it is not needed.

    It can be there for varying reasons. One could be that the aromamaterials have nice round values already and add to near 1000, and rather than adjust them to get a...
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    Re: The Sandalwood Game Proposal & Entries

    I will have little idea here as I don't have Figuene, and worse, of the samples of sandalwood-type bases I sent you even though I had them, I can't say too much on them because some I did not like...
  72. Re: Can you help me find Heliotropex N (IFF)?

    Yes. Personally I use moderately hot water bath for such occasions. (I haven't had to do this with Heliotropin as mine is not diluted.)

    Microwave is possible too but cannot be recommended in...
  73. Re: Most pleasing aroma chemical you've smelled?

    It took me a while to smell it well.
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    Re: Pure Indole Jasmine?

    Synthetic indole is a little mothball-y. Natutal is much nicer but quite pricey.

    But while Indole (or one of the similar materials) is IMO necessary to jasmine, by itself it does not say jasmine,...
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    Re: The Sandalwood Game Proposal & Entries

    Re-reading it, on your perfume, if it had been my perfume, Will's notes would have helped me a lot if I hadn't already had the same opinion, or if I did, would have helped by confirming.

    A few...
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    Re: The Sandalwood Game Proposal & Entries

    I appreciate your point, and would like to add that for even commercially successful perfumes by professional Perfumers, some including with excellent noses genuinely won't like and can't really...
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    Re: The Sandalwood Game Proposal & Entries

    Thank you, Marwan! That means a lot especially from you. I certainly had high expectations on seeing what you were planning and from Bavard's findings your perfume did indeed do very well!
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    Re: The Sandalwood Game Proposal & Entries

    Thank you, Will! Your taking the time and lending your expertise is very much appreciated!

    Several of what you said, I had not thought of at all but now that you have, I see what you mean....
  79. Re: Can you help me find Heliotropex N (IFF)?

    It would be relatively difficult. Column chromatagraphy perhaps, or possibly as there is some slight solubility of heliotropin in water, shaking against a relatively large volume of water and then...
  80. Re: Can you help me find Heliotropex N (IFF)?

    On top of this, DPG could easily be removed from the heliotropin if desired, as it is miscible with water while heliotropin is very little soluble.
  81. Re: Can you help me find Heliotropex N (IFF)?

    It is no Heliotropin replacement, IMO. Or at any rate I felt not.

    On PA's Heliotropin, it is indeed a shame they went to the mere 20 percent strength.
  82. Re: Essential Oil Still Tour... Anyone Interested?

    Quite likely this: http://phibeearomatics.com/essential-oils-co-distills.html
  83. Replies
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    Re: Where to buy quality natural oud?

    :)

    In a way it is good I don't have much money because if I did, the amount that would go into ouds would be irresponsible!! :)
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    Re: Where to buy quality natural oud?

    You're very welcome, Agonhoun!

    I have enjoyed each of the Ensar Ouds I have purchased, as well as the free samples, and certainly there is great variety, and even moreso with how they work on...
  85. Re: Most pleasing aroma chemical you've smelled?

    This is difficult as I much prefer mixtures to single AC's, and wouldn't be a fan in general of the idea of wearing single AC's. I don't have a standout. In no particular order, Civettone, Cedrol,...
  86. Re: Simple lavender fragrance, what else to add?

    You're very welcome!

    It's one of those things I probably should have purchased but never did. I'd be interested to know what you and others think of it, especially whether it can give DHM-like...
  87. Re: Simple lavender fragrance, what else to add?

    Yeah, I just can't take it as anything other than an utter BS story, and further, one that could be told only on the assumption that I was really stupid.
  88. Re: Simple lavender fragrance, what else to add?

    Or just basically hard as you say to really know anything with regard to what's been going on. The stories are not always the same.

    Before the wildfires / tragic shipping explanation, I was told...
  89. Re: Simple lavender fragrance, what else to add?

    CP apparently has it: https://www.creatingperfume.com/dihydromyrcenylacetate.aspx
  90. Replies
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    Re: Where to buy quality natural oud?

    You will find many recommendations and reviews here: https://www.basenotes.net/forums/278-Oudh-Ud-Aoud

    This is where I went to make my decisions.

    Example threads, in no order of importance:
    ...
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    Re: Is Liberty Naturals legit?

    Exactly.
  92. Replies
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    Re: Classification of ingredients

    Not 100% accurate everywhere but as good a compilation as one will find:

    https://www.creatingperfume.com/aromachemicalprofilesbyjanetprice.aspx
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    Re: Interesting Two-Component Accords

    In the meantime do try open bottle work, it's (IMO anyway) great and consumes essentially nothing while providing learning and enjoyment.
  94. Replies
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    Re: Interesting Two-Component Accords

    Like you I am afraid to consume it in experiments or questionable efforts, and wherever possible I get my feelings of what it will do from open bottle work, or from adding to skin separately without...
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    Re: Interesting Two-Component Accords

    I may be (actually, I have no idea, I do not know what I am talking about) overpaying with Ensar, but I have had zero reason to doubt the quality.

    Suitability of any given oud to me or a given...
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    Re: Formulation Software

    Well, that is a "mic drop" first post for sure!

    Welcome to the forum!

    And thank you for your very generous and quite promising looking software contribution!
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    Re: So many rose components!

    Hazel, my apologies, for some reason I misunderstood you question and thought you were asking about building rose accords That is what my answer was towards.

    On natural rose, you are right, they...
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    Re: What kind of amber is in Dior Sauvage?

    There are many modern creations I really can't stand. For me, the "super ambers" are major culprits.

    Of course, they're successful, and many enjoy them.
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    Re: What kind of amber is in Dior Sauvage?

    Ambrocenide 10% ?!?!??!
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    Re: Best Way To Approach Cannabis Scent

    I've bought only individual materials from Terpene University such as alpha-Thujene, beta-Elemene, Verbenone, trans-Nerolidol, Sabinene, and Myrcene. Very happy with each. But I have no idea on the...
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