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  1. Replies
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    Re: excel sheet formula lock?

    You can look over the sheet that I use here for ideas...

    https://pkperfumes.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/1-PK-Perfumes-Fragrance-FORMULA-WORKSHEET2_revised_IFRA2.xltx
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    Re: resource for compounds of EOs?

    Like Bill says, - also, if you use Perfumersearch.com, and type in the field, "Clove typical GC", then you will come up with the GC's on file there.
    I see one for each of Clove Bud, Clove leaf, and...
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    Re: Beverage Accords

    The coca cola accord is easy enough to find around online.

    Root beer is well served by a base at PSH.

    Lemonade and watermelon are pretty self explanatory.
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    Re: Process of creating fragrance brand

    What country you are in, and in what market you plan to sell into, determines some of these answers.
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    Re: Possible new source -- but possible red flag

    I don't have a price for Longifolene, but have a 1kg price for Isolongifolene at $110. Shipping from China included.
  6. Re: Good supplier for Choya Loban and other Choyas?

    The Choyas from White lotus were not attars, but EO's. Looking at your list from Ventrakamma, the choyas listed there are attars...
    That would account for their lighter color, because they are...
  7. Re: Terpeneless Geranium EO From Perfumer's Supply House & Robertet Geranium Heart

    Shouting out to Our old friend, Toujours Mink, who wrote to me and offered to send me this book, the 1944 Fritzsche Brothers book, Perfumes Handbook and Catalog. :-)

    I was reading it today, and...
  8. Re: had anyone order essential oil/absolute/extract from US to UK? how bad the VAT is?

    Eden sold a marvelous Mandarin Petitgrain. Then they made a conscious decision to change to a different type, which was very high in Methyl n-methyl anthranilate. I never did find out the exact %...
  9. Re: Understanding "blenders" in The Good Scents Company entries

    "Blenders" is used here to describe how to think about a molecule that doesn't have a big odor impact, or very distinctive odor ID or prominence.

    I don't like the term, because I view the thought...
  10. Re: Good News: Generous People on Yahoo Perfumemaking Group saved the data. Here's the link

    Yahoo Perfumemaking is the group that many people learned with... when I first joined, Andy Tauer was in it with us.

    But the Yahoo group really died away... and I sorely missed the conversations...
  11. Re: I got my first ingredients. How not to screw up?

    Links are dead.
  12. Re: Directory of common essential oils / extracts and their GC/MS

    Hello NanashiSaito, Looks great...
    however, I usually need the retention index order when researching GCMS of natural extractions...
    It does not seem that presently that information is available,...
  13. Re: How to recreate the odour of herbivorous animal feces ?

    Grass eaters would have coumarin in their feces, kind of like how Hay absolute is the smell of elephant feces.
  14. Re: Terpeneless Geranium EO From Perfumer's Supply House & Robertet Geranium Heart

    Agreeing with Bill.
    Using the Terpeneless Geranium, you can use it for the middle, without needing the terpenes in the tops...
    So you can place other top notes in that scent...
  15. Re: What are the 3 most beautiful captives released in recent years?

    Cascalone is great to me...
  16. Replies
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    Re: Maturation of solid ingredients

    As I discussed this morning with my distance student, I can smell a difference in topnotes in a concentrate blend in an hour, in six hours, and after about 2-3 days the change is mostly accommodated,...
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    Re: L'Air de Panache

    The formula was posted for a reference...
    14% of coumarin means that the coumarin will come up from the base, and dominate the fragrance.
    IF that is what you want, then do so...
    I would not likely...
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    Re: Maturation of solid ingredients

    The week of waiting is mostly to let topnotes meld and blend in. But if you aren't adding topnotes, and work mostly with middle and base, the waiting is less important...
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    Re: Pure Indole Jasmine?

    Indolent is a schiff base, and so the molecular size is quite a bit larger than just indole, so should last longer... but mostly, it is a mitigator to the pure indole.
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    Re: Maturation of solid ingredients

    Some materials react with the alcohol. Several, many materials react with each other.
    Solids likely don't react when diluted in DPG or IPM, TEC.

    Materials still react with each other after...
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    Re: Pure Indole Jasmine?

    Pure indole is the right material to dilute to follow the formula.
    Indolene 50 would indeed be something to try out, go for it...

    Indole is indeed the oomph and base of jasmine, tuberose, and...
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    Re: Bottles for perfume

    Stocksmetic

    Also, I have just acquired a few thousand bottles, and can sell at a good price, but only for the bottles at 50ml, No caps or sprayers...
    100 is two boxes.
    147513

    147514
  23. Re: Help needed with microbial VOCs -smells that persist

    Hi, First, I am sorry that you are having this issue...

    I would try large amounts of Isopropyl alcohol, able to submerge the fabrics into.
    I realize that 5 gallons of Military spec Isopropyl 100%...
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    Re: Essential Oil Still Tour... Anyone Interested?

    Yes, you have it right, or at least as I have learned to best accomplish the goals and odor profile I wish to retain... :-)
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    Re: Essential Oil Still Tour... Anyone Interested?

    The tip is to only tincture and shake for 15 minutes, then remove the matter, (leaves and twigs are perfect). Just long enough to dissolve the resins on the leaves and twigs. Then charge the...
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    Re: Can you help me find Heliotropex N (IFF)?

    That sounds like really the best possible solution for Perfumers who want / need Heliotropin by itself...
    Even for me it requires more steps than commonly needed for other materials, to obtain in a...
  27. Re: What is that typical manly "Aftershave" note/accord?

    Dihydromyrcenol is a main note in contemporary scents like this.
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    Re: Essential Oil Still Tour... Anyone Interested?

    I normally simply tincture Creosote bush leaves and twigs...
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    Re: Can you help me find Heliotropex N (IFF)?

    Oh Gosh, I wonder why PA had to reduce the Heliotropin content in their replacer...???
    It used to be 50/50.
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    Re: L'Air de Panache

    Period men's scents would have been Fougere's, Chypres, Spices based on Eugenols, or barbershop lavenders...

    Here is a Lavender Fougere dated 1945 in my Formula Endowment Archive.
    And I looked up...
  31. Re: Incredibly specific mouillette holder question

    No I've not made thise or like it. But, it seems like you would need to make a jig that holds the rods and clips in place while the resin cures.
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    Re: Simple lavender fragrance, what else to add?

    Given the very high % of linalool and linalyl acetate from the lavender, lavender, and even clary sage, this fragrance will not last too long... You may consider lessening that dosage.

    To add...
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    Re: Where i can get Fine Frangrance Formulas?!

    This is the place to help people learn how to make their own fine fragrance formulas.
    If you want to buy formulas, I suggest that you contact some fragrance houses in your country to see what they...
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    Re: Masala vanilla incense

    Well, with the title of Masala, you should probably start with the Masala spices used in tea masala. You may also end up using some resins too, but I don't know those incense sticks personally.
  35. Thread: About lychee

    by pkiler
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    Re: About lychee

    Fruits are much harder than you expect to make them realistic.
    You can infer the fruits often, though.

    The fruit portion of Lychee is more or less a generic sweet fruit bit.
    Yes, you can choose...
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    Re: libertynatural.com down?

    Liberty just wrote to tell that they were without power for 10 days due to downed power lines in an ice storm.
    They said their site is back up again...
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    Re: Perfume concentration

    This concentration is diluted from a majority of undiluted materials...
    Some materials may be so strong that they need to be diluted to play nicely with other undiluted materials....
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    Re: My Virgin Island Water formula

    Not much of my website is working right now, but this seems to be ok to download the Excel file......
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    Re: 4-Ethylphenol vs Birch tar etc.

    It's very difficult to compare a single molecule next to a full spectrum natural.
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    Re: My Virgin Island Water formula

    Taking out your dilutions, and assuming weight by your numbers, These are your percentages;



    Ambrofix (Ambroxan) - 3
    3.0000gr
    2.01%


    Ethyl Maltol - 3.55
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    Re: Organizing Aroma chemicals

    Organize them by the way that you currently associate with them. Don't put your organizational structure in stone though, be ready to change it when you grow... several times...
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    Re: Am I anosmic to Cadaverine?

    Cadaverine neat smells like somewhat old raw chicken dark meat.
    It doesn't smell like rotting flesh/dead animal.
    I'm sorry, but I looked and could not find my small sample to smell at this time to...
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    Re: 4 materials - 8 questions

    If the single molecule vanillin, yes, can be used in perfumery. If you refer to vanilla extract for baking instead, it has a lot of water and alcohol. And if you are buying the cheap version, then...
  44. Thread: Ysl m7 (2002)

    by pkiler
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    Re: Ysl m7 (2002)

    Oh, Not to worry, I didn't spend too much time looking over the GCMS, because it is not a collapsed GC, there are so many peaks to weed through... I can easily miss things, in this format, plus, it...
  45. Thread: Ysl m7 (2002)

    by pkiler
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    659

    Re: Ysl m7 (2002)

    Looking over the GCMS, it looks like several woods, Cedarwood, Amyris, several sandalwood molecules, patchouli at between 4-7%, Iso E Super, musks, hedione, Gamma methyl Ionone, a boatload of ethyl...
  46. Thread: 1on1 Mentoring

    by pkiler
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    Re: 1on1 Mentoring

    Why don't you hit up Mark Evans in Australia:
    https://evocativeperfumes.com/
    perfumer at evocativeperfumes dot com
  47. Re: Creatingperfume.com...is it open for business?

    eek, Thanks for the heads up...
    Seems like a critical error...
    seems like a lot of updating is needed...
    Your tip off is most appreciated...

    If you want to buy something, just write me to pk...
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    Re: A Fougèrative Day Out

    Yes, 7% sounds better... you know the coumarin notes are overdosed, if you open the concentrate bottle to smell, close it up, and in a minute, Coumarin is what is left in the air in the space.
  49. Re: Good supplier for Choya Loban and other Choyas?

    Excellent, Thanks!
  50. Re: Good supplier for Choya Loban and other Choyas?

    OK, Cool... well, if you do order, may I order with you to conserve $ on shipping?
  51. Re: Good supplier for Choya Loban and other Choyas?

    White Lotus was the supplier for us of these...
    I have not heard except good, for Ventrakamna.

    Fortunately, I stocked up before Whote Lotus went out, so don't need any. That is unless they sell...
  52. Re: Creatingperfume.com...is it open for business?

    Alora mentioned that her doggie had had major problems, and that she'd spent more than a week working on her dog's health...

    A lot of things going down simultaneously...
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    Re: libertynatural.com down?

    I called last week, they said they were updating their site, check back in a few hours, but it has been many days, I suppose it was a bit messy and they are trying to get back ASAP...
  54. Thread: On Peonile

    by pkiler
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    Re: On Peonile

    I would wish to buy a small amount from you for my own reference, if you'd like. Any small amount in a capped vial is fine, sprayer not desired.... :-)
  55. Re: Solvent for materials that seems partially soluble in ethanol?

    It's really tough to guess exactly what would work. You could try each dilutant you have in a tiny trial. But, often, the rest of the concentrate molecules can also serve this function, too. You...
  56. Thread: Bergamot FCR?

    by pkiler
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    Re: Bergamot FCR?

    Can't guess in French, but FCR often means "furocoumarin reduced".

    Go for FCF. Furocoumarin free.
  57. Replies
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    Re: A Fougèrative Day Out

    Whoa, that coumarin dose...
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    Re: leather+pineapple

    Mm, right now, to me, this looks thin on molecules. I'd consider a pineapple base, and a leather base. And then I think you could include some other things to fill it out a bit.
  59. Re: I got my first ingredients. How not to screw up?

    Did you order from Parfclub?
  60. Replies
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    Re: Making eucalyptus Eo USP

    USP is a certification...
    I don't think, (without actually knowing...) that you can just distill something, and call it USP. Methinks it needs to go somewhere to be certified as such as "USP".
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    Re: Cashmeran too earthy?

    I would agree with the above...
    Get your Geosmin outside the house for a week or two.
    Make sure that you end up diluting it down to 1/10,000 % to use.
    Do not reuse any pipette that you use in...
  62. Replies
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    Re: Pretty Oud (Firmenich)

    Yes, I recognize it from my own perfumes...
    But I tend to think it is used well blended..
  63. Re: Recreating the typical animal barnyard OUD note, in Arab perfumes

    Yes.
  64. Replies
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    Re: Florals and top notes for a newbie

    Glad to help.
    Linalool and Linalyl acetate are the pairing that is in Bergamot, Lavender, and Petitgrain.

    Ethyl linalyl acetate is similar to Linalyl Acetate.. but the ethyl, I tend to think...
  65. Re: Recreating the typical animal barnyard OUD note, in Arab perfumes

    Did you try the QT Civet Oud Blend?
  66. Replies
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    Re: Simple fougere formula/oakmoss

    uh, yeah, way too much coumarin, it will take over. you can cut down to 3% with ease.
    The bergamot is there for diffusion, see if it is better with some...
    Also, seems rather shy for the top end.
  67. Re: GCMS of common essential oils and absolutes

    Even in my monster laboratory, only four from this list are resident.
    The rest are pretty hard to come by...
  68. Replies
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    Re: Florals and top notes for a newbie

    85 hedione
    20 linalool
    15 phenyl ethyl alcohol
    26 jasmine abs
    4 rose abs
    30 linalyl acetate

    Try that.
    note: I changed the Ethyl linalyl acetate to Linalyl acetate
  69. Replies
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    Re: Brooklyn Fragrance Lover

    Indeed, sad to hear. He will indeed be missed.
    It's a good time for everyone to assess their physical and spiritual health for their future...
  70. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands? (EDIT, CP has new owner)

    I am pretty sure that Alora is going to keep selling the Accords. But their present situation is that they lost much too much of their stock of materials in the move, due to the moving company....
  71. Re: Looking for a few formulation sheet "beta testers"

    yes...
  72. Replies
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    Re: re-create Tobacco Vanille / oriental fragrance

    Agreed. And I severely doubt that it has Tobacco Absolute, as well. Granted I am looking over a Perfumersworld GCMS that someone sent to me.
    You all know I am not inclined to PW, but even here,...
  73. Replies
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    Re: An attempt to shake up the creative process

    Well, First, why do you need so much DPG?
    Next, is this ALL?
    It's all Musk, you need more "enliveners". :-)

    Why didn't you use any galaxolide?
  74. Replies
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    Re: Diffuseness / Diffusivity and alcohol

    Yes, there are materials that are more diffusive and evaporate faster than alcohol.
  75. Replies
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    Re: Failed use of Cascalone

    Its is considered a topnote if the dosage is too high.
  76. Re: Solvent for Stryrax Absolute and similar material

    Unless it is a CO2 Total, and being called an absolute...
    what does the vendor and the SDS say?

    many oils cloud when added to alcohol.
    Often you just need to let them settle for a month to clear.
  77. Thread: Rose

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    2,248

    Re: Rose

    A tiny bit of research on the molecular composition of Rose essential oil will yield piles and piles of results. Rose is one of the most studied natural extraction.
    Go for it, and teach yourself......
  78. Replies
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    Re: Recreating top/middle notes of Tam Dao EDT

    It smells like there is more Texas cedar than 7.5%. But maybe that is because the blend used emphasizes the topnote terpenes, instead of the basenotes in Texas Cedarwood.
    Texas cedar is especially...
  79. Re: The Nombre Noir open project... the world's most notorious perfume

    I have not had contact with him for quite a long time...
    I'm not sure what he is doing presently... But he is from your country...
    But his blog was taken down. I am quite surprised if you...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Scent and Chemistry

    Do you need me to ask Mr. Kraft about this?
  81. Re: The Nombre Noir open project... the world's most notorious perfume

    Does it start out like this?
    "205 - Hedione / Jasmin oil ? (CAS: 24851-98-7)
    150 - alpha-methyl-Ionone (CAS: 7779-30-8)"

    OR, Does it start out like this?
    "1. Damask rose abs (20)
    2. Rose givco...
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    Re: Failed use of Cascalone

    mmm, yeah. Use Cascalone at less than 1% of the undiluted concentrate.
    You'll have to calculate the amount apropos for 20% dilution...
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    Re: Highly Tenacious Woody Molecules

    The Funebris?

    Whose stock do you like?
  84. Re: Feedback on potential materials for a Balsam Fir Base

    Just remember that Fir Balsam Essential oil is often from the needles and is light, a topnote, mostly of, as mentioned, a-pinene and b-pinene, and limonene.
    Fir Balsam Absolute is a different...
  85. Thread: Odur Pinus

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    544

    Re: Odur Pinus

    Possibly, but they didn't mention the perfume name.
  86. Replies
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    Re: Highly Tenacious Woody Molecules

    Mmmm, Sorry that you have to resort to that source...
    But, Yes, early on I realized that supply was a little unpredictable for this molecule, so when I could buy the liquid cedrol featured in my...
  87. Replies
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    Re: Using Base Note Only in Complete Formula

    Base notes don't start evaporating after several hours, they start to evaporate immediately. But when surrounded by other more volatile materials, you don't smell them as easily.
  88. Thread: Odur Pinus

    by pkiler
    Replies
    7
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    544

    Re: Odur Pinus

    hmm, this is only the second link in a Google search for Pinus Cembra GCMS. It only takes a smidgen of initiative to answer your own question......
  89. Replies
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    Re: fragrance oil+polysorbate 20+ alcohol

    Ahh, for candles...
    And their SDS and IFRA docs are really worthless for telling you about what is in it...

    toss it and do something else for fragrances.
  90. Replies
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    Re: Highly Tenacious Woody Molecules

    I talk about Cedrol here:
    https://youtu.be/TCpL4o09vao

    from about 2:00 through to about 4:25 minutes.
  91. Replies
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    Re: fragrance oil+polysorbate 20+ alcohol

    Can you pick another product more suitable for wearable fragrances?
  92. Replies
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    Re: Highly Tenacious Woody Molecules

    Cedrol would be good...
  93. Replies
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    Re: 'Sandalwood' Fragrance Recipe / Ingredients

    I'm glad that you found you like the Sandalwood from PA, that makes the sandalwood bit easier...

    Unfortunately, I don't know those scents that you refer to.
    But "Sandalwood" is usually quite...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Recommendations for fresh green background

    Green: A microdose of Triplal, Lyral, a bit of Perilla EO, Anther, Stemone, and Trifernal
  95. Replies
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    Re: Cardamom oil from seeds

    If you can buy enough cardamom, and also have ability to distill essential oils from that stock, it should be perfectly usable in perfumery.
  96. Re: why does jasmine sambac co2 extract create solid bit in perfumers alcohol?

    Exactly as above...

    A total will likely have insolubles.
    BUT, you can try to add fatty acid ethyl and/or methyl esters, and possibly get the insolubles to blend into the alcohol.
  97. Thread: FreshSkin

    by pkiler
    Replies
    3
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    494

    Re: FreshSkin

    No direct personal experience here. No giant red flags when looking over their website, with the exception that their Absolutes seem drastically too cheap. They might be dilutions, or they might...
  98. Re: How to recreate the scent of a prehistoric swamp/marsh ?

    I don't think that swamp odors have really changed any over time... Go visit a real swamp, and sniff around...
  99. Replies
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    Re: tincturing pinon sap?

    Like Mak-7 says, always gonna be sticky...
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    Re: Attempt at a recreation of Armani Mania

    I got mine this morning, put it on my hand... Def has some linalool, I thought of Lavender in the opening.
    Now, I'll look at the structure that is published...

    But it seem like you would need to...
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