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  1. Re: Creating traditional attars using naturals and aroma chemicals

    Yes, what is certainly to be called, a proper Attar, the blend of naturals are placed in the still, and they are received directly into a sandalwood base, which can be real, or synthetic.

    But the...
  2. Thread: C14 for pear

    by pkiler
    Replies
    18
    Views
    511

    Re: C14 for pear

    Honestly, I just don't see pairing anything with gamma-undecalactone to create a pear basenote.
    Please stop calling gamma-undecalactone by the name of Aldehyde C-14, it is a completely erroneous...
  3. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    10% clove is too much. 3% Clove is probably just right.
  4. Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    You can consider any or all of these, Fruity, and useful to build a Sauvage type scent:


    Manzanate


    Bergamot


    Sichuan Pepper CO2 Robertet
  5. Thread: About lychee

    by pkiler
    Replies
    30
    Views
    1,606

    Re: About lychee

    When Harry Sherwood was here, we made a few Lychee bases, including the base formula published by Bedoukian, with 50 lines to it. (with four naturals in there too)
    Bedoukian likes to throw...
  6. Replies
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    Re: Geranyl Isovalerate

    Mine came from PSH, yes, have a stinky nuance, but the rosy and fruity is stronger.
    Just remember that it is a "-valerate", and so will have the stinky aspect of valeric acid.
    ...
  7. Replies
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    Re: Adding Smaller Measured Amounts?

    Two possible solutions:

    First is to dilute as mentioned.
    I will keep a bottle full strength, and make dilutions in smaller(sometimes much smaller) vials, mark them, then tape them to the larger...
  8. Re: Who sells the highest quality Patchouli oil (to consumers)?

    Liberty Natural has a nice Patchouli MD version that I use a lot.
    I also buy a decent Chinese Patchouli from Brambleberry.

    I recommend to buy as much as you can afford of good Patchouli, and...
  9. Replies
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    Re: Anisic base notes

    I can make you a few molecules to use for this solution.
    What is your budget?

    Oh, but wait, you will probably have to use EU certified molecules... Instead of great for the purpose handmade...
  10. Replies
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    1,126

    Re: Deliberate practice

    I can't seem to post pics in BN these days, but I posted this redacted formula for Shalimar in my FB group,
    Maybe you can see all of the materials in this pic...?
    ...
  11. Replies
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    464

    Re: Perfume flower tree absolute

    Thanks Bill for posting that... I tried here, and in another thread... And I have been completely unable to post a photo in these threads, by uploading a file. No matter what size it is. I can...
  12. Replies
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    Re: Deliberate practice

    I'd like to correct that slightly...

    Current versions of Birch Tar seem to have a fishy-ness that I don't like.
    I find that after dilution of this strong material, the fishy comes out, but does...
  13. Thread: C14 for pear

    by pkiler
    Replies
    18
    Views
    511

    Re: C14 for pear

    Calone in any perfume is really high at 1%.

    One Issey Myake scent for which I have intelligence says Calone is at 0.64%

    If you are making a scent as proposed (and assuming that you assume that...
  14. Replies
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    464

    Re: Perfume flower tree absolute

    Ah, found one:
    2008, "Flower Scents from the Pacific", by Daniel Joulain, has a hexane extraction gcms of the flower you seek.
  15. Replies
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    Re: Perfume flower tree absolute

    I've checked through my Worldwide Floral Headspace GCMS books by Roman Kaiser, and looked around online, and have found zero information so far for this flower.
    Even a scent description is hard to...
  16. Replies
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    464

    Re: Perfume flower tree absolute

    I see a couple of pages for it on TGSC, but no suppliers, nor any real information at all. These pages are more like placeholders.

    I looked around, found references to the flower, gardens and...
  17. Replies
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    Re: Timeframe on When to Test Formula

    Cool!
    Yes, the main base / last note odorant is a molecule specially made, with a molecular weight of 299.32.

    :-)
  18. Replies
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    Re: Timeframe on When to Test Formula

    I like what Darren says above...
  19. Replies
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    Re: Crimpless 18mm atomizer top

    Would be easier to change bottles.
  20. Replies
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    Re: Body mist / spray Help

    TEC = Triethyl Citrate:
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1012772.html

    IPM = Isoproyl Myristate
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1019332.html

    And s suitable silicone...
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    Cedar of Lebanon / Cedrus Libani

    For more than 15 years, I have tried to obtain real Cedar of Lebanon type Cedarwood oil / EO. Wildcrafted

    There was once a one off distillation from Floracopeia, from a USA tree cut down and...
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    Re: Body mist / spray Help

    And this percentage of Glycerin doesn't feel sticky gooey on skin?

    Hey, I know that water is cheap, but still, I would likely choose to use a lot more molecules in place of a lot of that water,...
  23. Re: A Whiff Of Waffle Cone | Dissection of the Waffle Cone note

    Deleted, PM sent instead
  24. Natural Fragrance Ingredients grown - and now to NOT BE GROWN IN EU !

    EU legislators in Brussels are certifiable lunatics.

    "Will Europe kill lavender, thyme and rosemary?"

    "A draft European regulation could lead to classifying this natural product as dangerous."...
  25. Thread: About lychee

    by pkiler
    Replies
    30
    Views
    1,606

    Re: About lychee

    Lavender is evil. It contains Linalool. Must be stamped out.
    ...
  26. Thread: About lychee

    by pkiler
    Replies
    30
    Views
    1,606

    Re: About lychee

    Constant hypothetical supposition, without personal experience or knowledge, and without control of who is or is not allowed to post such drivel, is then the driving force for allowing oneself to use...
  27. Thread: Osmanthus

    by pkiler
    Replies
    28
    Views
    11,371

    Re: Osmanthus

    Given that this is your first post, you are forgiven for not knowing how to address the person to whom you are asking the question, and given that this is a Nine year old thread, it is impossible to...
  28. Re: Most used synthetic "Heart" note in your fragrances

    Ethyl vanillin is, maybe, 50X - 100X as strong as Vanillyl acetate. (as long as I am remembering correctly, as I cannot seem to find the bottle to sniff....)

    But from the last thread, I mentioned...
  29. Re: Most used synthetic "Heart" note in your fragrances

    whoooeeee! I'm gagging from here! LOL! :-)
  30. Replies
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    Re: What Have I Created?

    I suppose a few, enough to get their own basket on the shelf.

    158359
  31. Re: Help? Sulfur/ Rotten Egg Note - How to achieive?

    Not Sulfurol.

    DMS, maybe... but it is a topnote... and it really doesn't represent, to me, "rotten egg".
    Rotten egg sulfur has more oomph and is more middle note-ish, methinks...

    If I have...
  32. Replies
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    Re: Tomato Leaf | The Accord Thread

    This is from my files:

    Perfume with tomato leaves character


    Ingredient Parts by weight
    Styrallyl acetate 530
    Cinnamic...
  33. Replies
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    Re: What Have I Created?

    I think the biggest molecule I've made is 463mw.

    :-)
  34. Replies
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    Re: What happens during maceration?

    I had 1924 Guerlain Djedi gcms studied, with extremely high resolution. The wizened old gcms tech, with 40 years of experience was so frustrated with himself, that he was unable identify about 40%...
  35. Re: Suggestions on making an Elemi accord which functions in the mid the base range.

    Long Lasting Lemon base is likely helpful taking lemon to the base.
  36. Replies
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    Re: Powdery effect of Dior Homme line?

    Quoting from a BN member's DHi reconstruction, they used these materials, which comprise the orris and powdery section:



    vetiver EO Haiti / Vetiverol


    Isoraldeine 95 (G)
  37. Replies
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    11,406

    Re: What happens during maceration?

    There's a reason that old apothecary and perfume formulas add materials in a sequence, and delayed by time.
    In order to form the new molecules through maceration, before proceeding to the next step....
  38. Replies
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    Re: What happens during maceration?

    Yes, an undiluted compound macerates and improves before dilution as well.
  39. Replies
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    11,406

    Re: What happens during maceration?

    As I have recently learned, same thing happens with Propylene Glycol,
    Aldehyde + Propylene Glycol ⇌ (Aldehyde) propyl glycol acetal
  40. Replies
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    Re: What Have I Created?

    Schiff bases are used in many industries, including Medicine. Fragrance is mostly a bastard child of the larger class of Schiff chemical reactions.
    The reactions of Schiff bases in Perfumery are...
  41. Replies
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    Re: What Have I Created?

    wow, I continue to be sorry for this. It is better to be silent if you do not have proper information, and only unfounded and unknowledgeable conjecture to offer.
  42. Replies
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    Re: What Have I Created?

    I haven't made this before, but Indole schiff bases require 2X Indole molecular weight (mw), to 1X mw of an aldehyde.

    These bases complete their reaction, but smell strongly of Indole. If you...
  43. Replies
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    Re: What Have I Created?

    Yes, you made a schiff base... :-)
    But its probably not complete yet.
    And yes, indole turns dark red purple like that.
    If you want to run the reaction farther, put the bottle out in the sun, and...
  44. Replies
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    Re: Ethyl Maltol in masculines

    I have Ethyl Maltol at 0.2% of a Men's scent for a client, and Maltol at 0.015%.

    Comparatively, BR 540 has Ethyl Maltol at 1.22%
  45. Re: Has anyone used the Australian shop "Natural Alchemy"?

    Lilac absolute: Description says: "Only a distillers in Europe offer materials which are said to be derived exclusively from lilac flowers." COA says: Source: USA.
    COA lists Lilac Absolute, and...
  46. Replies
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    Re: Dark Vanilla Base, I need your help

    Now that I think about it, Vanilla Oleoresin / Resinoid might be right up your alley for some bit of this venture.
    I certainly don't like it as any type of replacement for Vanilla Absolute, but it...
  47. Replies
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    Re: additives ? any help?

    No.
  48. Re: How can I tone down the clove note in my carnation fragrance?

    If you don't like clove, then take down the eugenol, or isoeugenol, or any of the other eugenol types.
  49. Replies
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    Re: Dark Vanilla Base, I need your help

    Dosage for Acetovanillone / Vanillyl Acetone / Zingerone in the Vanilla Absolute GCMS is only 0.06%

    Vanillyl Acetone / Zingerone is quite quiet... and doesn't really smell "dark" to me.
    While...
  50. Thread: Clary Sage Abs

    by pkiler
    Replies
    17
    Views
    854

    Re: Clary Sage Abs

    Just let it sit, don't filter yet. Give it a day or three, it should completely dissolve.
  51. Replies
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    Re: How do I get it out of the vial?

    Depending upon your weather, you may be fine to simply put the Guaiacwood in the sun outside to warm.
    But you can also put in the microwave for a few seconds.
    Just keep in mind that if you have any...
  52. Re: Is there a need for more shops for ingredients? V2

    Personally, I think that offering Geosmin in pure state leads to way too many amateur disasters due to ignorance about this material.

    I would say to sell Geosmin at 0.1%, and even then, recommend...
  53. Thread: Clary Sage Abs

    by pkiler
    Replies
    17
    Views
    854

    Re: Clary Sage Abs

    50% is probably good.
  54. Re: Is there a need for more shops for ingredients?

    Harry Sherwood is selling materials in London, too.
  55. Re: Glass beakers - best way to clean many at once.

    I always wipe them out with alcohol, and run them through the dishwasher cycle.
  56. Replies
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    Re: ACs from Mystic Moments

    My package came yesterday. All were in plastic bottles, and diacetyl had turned the clear pet plastic to opaque yellow on the neck and base. All three were immediately moved into glass upon arrival.
  57. Re: Add or not to add aqua into 200 proof ethanol.

    Then my apologies for assuming that you were selling these clones that you want to dilute.
    Dilution of clone oils, and how to make them last longer are the two most common questions in here for...
  58. Re: Add or not to add aqua into 200 proof ethanol.

    Clone sellers - the bane of our Perfumery existence.
  59. Re: Can You Help me With This Weak Oceanic Formula?

    Hoo -WOW, that's a lot of Sandal Chems,...

    And I don't see any Helional, or Scentenal.

    And if that is your true Geosmin percentage, it is far too much, still...
    And you could likely take the...
  60. Re: Can You Help me With This Weak Oceanic Formula?

    Jamie, have you been able to employ any of the software or spreadsheets that helps you to understand your true percentages better?
  61. Thread: using pyrazines

    by pkiler
    Replies
    9
    Views
    627

    Re: using pyrazines

    Doesn't seem like too much... you may end up needing to add more.
  62. Replies
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    Re: Star jasmine accord help

    You might try some indolene or indole.
  63. Replies
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    Re: Vetiver oil blend

    "Mythical unicorn" is a fairly common term in the Fragcom (fragrance community), meaning it is something that is nearly impossible to find, possess, or smell. Just imagine a perfume from 1926. 95...
  64. Replies
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    Re: Vetiver oil blend

    Unless your name is also Djedi, I was discussing the 1926 Guerlain fragrance, Djedi.
  65. Replies
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    798

    Re: Vetiver oil blend

    Yes, as I have had the 1926 version GCMS tested a number of times, and from different labs.
  66. Replies
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    798

    Re: Vetiver oil blend

    The mythical unicorn Djedi has a boatload of vetiver...
  67. Replies
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde

    I bought large supplies of HCA and ACA from TGSC when they were selling raw materials, there are nice materials, nothing is changed, as far as I can tell.
    I also have some older ACA from CP, so old...
  68. Replies
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    Re: Wonky fougere sketch

    You can use Orange Power Givco for longer lasting Orange Note, plus also Valencene, if you can find/afford it.

    Benzyl acetone is a little nicer than benzyl acetate though.
    Geranyl Acetone,...
  69. Replies
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    Re: ACs from Mystic Moments

    Thanks, made an order of Diacetyl and Ethyl Lactate, both of which I do not already have, plus a resupply of Butyric acid...
  70. Replies
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    Re: Looking for a 'grilled meat' accord

    So many people have answered with a finished fragrance. I am not convinced that is the actual question.

    Jolieo brings in some great thoughts here in answering what she and I think is the actual...
  71. Re: Why do perfumers make bases/accords of existing natural materials?

    Bases are much more common for florals, than for other things, but much of much what is mentioned above is close to what I would have said.
    Even for Lavender, synthetic bases are common, to reduce...
  72. Thread: Tagetes

    by pkiler
    Replies
    13
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    884

    Re: Tagetes

    I'm not actually sure what the Biggest problematic molecule(s) are, but simply looking at the restrictions given on TGSC, even just for the two molecules mentioned, those do not seem to be the...
  73. Thread: Tagetes

    by pkiler
    Replies
    13
    Views
    884

    Re: Tagetes

    If you look over it's restrictions, really, a supporting role is most advised.
  74. Re: Ways to speed up fragrance evaporation/maturation?

    Time is your Friend.
  75. Re: Weird cloudy solution when making an Incense accord

    You didn't mention what your materials are diluted with...???
  76. Replies
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    Re: Formula for original YSL Opium

    Because there are far too many people with bad motives.
  77. Replies
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    Re: Formula for original YSL Opium

    Except that on your first post - you ask for a free formula.
    We get a lot of people here saying gimmee gimmee gimmee...

    With just one person on this forum, there are more resources than you can...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Formula for original YSL Opium

    Most of the time, people just don't give out free formulas, willy nilly...
  79. Thread: Clary Sage Abs

    by pkiler
    Replies
    17
    Views
    854

    Re: Clary Sage Abs

    Just dilute in alcohol, or add to your concentrate directly.
    Always measure by weight.
  80. Thread: Mousse de Saxe

    by pkiler
    Replies
    102
    Views
    32,325

    Re: Mousse de Saxe

    I'm not really an expert in French formula notation of the time period, I am better in English notation.

    I was a bit surprised to think about the thought of Violet being so important to MDS, some...
  81. Replies
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    Re: Feedback on formula

    Try it again with 0.75% Oakmoss, and 1.5% Veramoss. and see what you think.
    It might need more musks, but you can add more later and recalculate your percentages.
  82. Replies
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    Re: Small illustration for beginners

    Casper, please send me the original photograph, maybe I can clean it up to repost it...?

    Check your BN PM's
  83. Re: Does anyone know how to get images to reliably post correctly here on DIY?

    Some pics won't even post from my phone, they are too large. Most of the time, I will resize pics for BN, and save at lowest level for web viewing, making the file size small, but of course, not...
  84. Replies
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    Re: Wool musk Absolute

    I know about rutting goat musk tincture, but have yet to hear of Sheep musk.
  85. Re: New to Perfumery - Sourcing ingredients in Australia

    Mark is the owner of my favorite search engine, www.perfumersearch.com.

    He is also previously the person who ran Hermitage Australia.

    I have encouraged him to sell more materials for Australian...
  86. Re: Karanal "Masculine Fougère" Formula on Good Scents

    Ah, I think that it is I that made the spelling mistake, Mea Culpa.

    Sclareol...

    not Sclareolide...

    My Apologies...
  87. Re: Karanal "Masculine Fougère" Formula on Good Scents

    After a fair amount of research, I learned that Clary Sage Absolute is mostly Sclareol.
    While the essential oil is much less Sclareol, and yes, is closer to a lavender, filled with linalool and...
  88. Replies
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    Re: Perceptability And Power of My Formula

    I've studied your formulas, I would recommend to find some sweet basil EO. Also, add a few more small amounts of topnotes materials, (like maybe Isoborneol, or mint) and also pump up the bergamot. ...
  89. Replies
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    Re: Perceptability And Power of My Formula

    Basil Essential oils, encompass many chemotypes:
    1,8 cineole
    Eugenol
    Geranial
    Linalool
    Methyl chavicol
    Methyl cinnamate
    Neral
    Ocimum
  90. Replies
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    Re: Perceptability And Power of My Formula

    Was going to give your formulas a better look, now I can't.

    But I do remember that your first lines, in the first formula had so many molecules that were linalool and linalyl acetate, coming from...
  91. Replies
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    Re: Beginner First Order Review

    I dont see too many issues with the materials list, but as mentioned, not so many basic molecules.

    There's nothing wrong with chasing and learning what you want to learn about... the best...
  92. Replies
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    Re: decahydro-beta-naphthyl formate

    Honestly, Getting less than 1kg is going to be problematic.

    Yes, as Bill says, you can try to get something out of Penta, But also, Since Indukern has it, you can call or write the ladies at the...
  93. Re: Dreamwood equivalent, maybe, without the captivity and at reasonable price?!?

    I spoke with Vigon today, the person just taught a class at Givaudan Perfumery School on the subject of Sandalwood, BTW...

    They also experienced the Isobionics synthetic Santalol, and they said...
  94. Re: Don't Add Water, Glycerin or Jojoba to Alcoholic Perfumes

    1. You usually make the formula better. On some occasions, you can add a fixative base. I was amazed to hear from their own mouth, that a well known artisan Perfumer uses my fixative base, and it...
  95. Replies
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    Re: Cigarette smoke accord

    Do you think for Scariosus or Rotundus? or both?
  96. Replies
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    3,574

    Re: Materials That You Hate

    I'm not sure that Osmanthus EO is made. Maybe the issue is that what you have is a forgery?
    I have Absolute and Concrete. I have Absolute from Liberty, and Albert Vielle, and Concrete from a...
  97. Replies
    14
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    755

    Re: Questions About Base

    Yes, I agree.
  98. Thread: test a formula

    by pkiler
    Replies
    15
    Views
    641

    Re: test a formula

    Perfumes are built any number of ways... someone might advocate a certain approach as favored, but there is still a multitude of viable paths...

    The client's perfume I have recently begun, needs...
  99. Replies
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    Re: Materials That You Hate

    I think that many of the Immortelle Absolutes go towards Maple syrup, and the Corsican EO is not so maple syrupy.

    I like these EO versions best:
    My sample from Charabot - Immortelle Helichrysum...
  100. Replies
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    3,574

    Re: Materials That You Hate

    Immortelle extractions and varietals can smell quite different...
    The Corsican honeyed version was the one I was most attracted to at first, now I know more of them...
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