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Not altruistic. And this is...?

“We also hope to see fragrance recognised as “work of the mind” via the intellectual property code, as seen in the film industry, choreography or photography”
Quote from the article on SIPC website....

Oops

Yes, even different grades of the same materials could skirt around any copyright.
There's no easy answer, I'm sure there would have been a solution by now if there was.

The way I understand it is that an odour can't be copyrighted but the formula can. Given the secrecy surrounding formulae the industry has chosen to allow referencing to the point of plagiarism...

Link to my article about a proposed charter for perfume creators.

https://www.basenotes.net/threads/483782-Perfumer-s-Charter?p=5064661#post5064661

Chartered Accountant, Chartered Surveyor, why not Chartered Perfumer?

The International Society of Perfumer-Creators has anounced it will publish a perfumer's charter. Its aim is to define the job...

lol

Uh-oh

Invest in smelling good - and sell the empties (if you can).

Francis Kurkdjian was recently interviewed for Elle magazine.
It's in French but my browser translates it into English no problem.
This is the original text, I don't want to be done for copyright...

Some bottles have a value, that's for sure, but whether the juice is going to be sought after in future times is another question.
If you wanted to invest, I would say buy empty vintage bottles,...

15 is way too many for me, 3 to 5 is the max.
Remember to take a pen so you can mark the strips.
Also, doing that wiil slow down pushy sales assistants who want to railroad you into a decision...

It reminds me of Eau Fortis.

A Life of Perfume
by Edmond Roudnitska

I think that's the one, yes.

Roudnitska is a goldmine of information,
and Jean-Claude Ellena...

Well worth checking out.

The only thing I know of is Une vie au service du parfum by Roudnitska.
He included some charts of material analysis, with times and descriptions.
As for extraction I don't know.
You could try...

You could try John Stephen at the Cotswold Perfumery.

That's how they do it at Cinquième Sens.

You mean like 'Fut' and it's gone?

Complice by François Coty, a cool creamy aldehydic bouquet, nice but clearly derivative of Ernest Beaux. Coty's last hurrah.

I've tried Aqua Mysteri and I thought it was ok but not great, a budget scent.
The best thing about this line is they offer 10ml bottles, and the price is not ramped up in proportion to larger sizes.

Bat

Assuming you are a man, Stan :
Le Beau, a coconut version of Le Mâle.
This one is - bizarrely - wearing a maple leaf cod piece (which is maybe something to do with the 'coconut wood'?)
and...

Zut ! Error...

Never the same twice.

Napoleon to Josephine - Don't wash. I return in one week.

Roja Dove wafts a strip in front of his nose, which seems to be the minority view.
The other thing that intrigues me is the smell of the perfume when I walk back in the room.
That can be something...

'The young one of the family' : she seemed right out of her depth...

It helps if you speak French because the subtitles are like a bad perfume; they have holes in them, and they don't always reflect what the perfumer means to say.

Talking over each other, that's the French for you.
Posturing ... well maybe,
but I don't agree with your assertion about despising the interviewer.

A 90 minute video, in French with subtitles.
Frédéric Malle, Pierre Bourdon, Jean-Claude Ellena, Anne Flipo, Dominique Ropion and Maurice Roucel
talk about the past, present and future of their...

Damp concrete, shared toilets, boiled cabbage.

He has done some new fruity videos.
(I mean the smells are fruity, not the videos...)

I had a neighbour who used to bring his barky dog to do it's business in front of my house while he checked up on his twitter feed - or whatever...
Repeated demands for him to Go Away and splashes...

L'Heure Bleue, in the no.70 going to Odéon. By the time I got off the bus I had written the blog post I've been meaning to write for the past year. I will post it tomorrow.

If you want to start a perfumery business then Introduction to Perfumery by Curtis and Williams is going to be invaluable.
It's aimed at first year perfumery students and covers the subject from...

There are 19 videos in the series. The first 15 are about the science of smell and Turin's theory of olfaction. These are based on his book of the same name. The last four are about perfume...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zJfiLwHqBI

Jo Malone composed the Emotions collection from last year. That could be worth a sniff, but the last time I was in Zara I left with a shrug. Same with their plastic clothes...

If you want good reads about perfumery you could try The Perfume Lover by Denise Beaulieu. It's the story of her collaboration with Bertrand Duchaufour which resulted in Séville à l'aube for Artisan...

https://brightside.me/inspiration-tips-and-tricks/9-simple-ways-to-tell-an-authentic-perfume-from-a-fake-225060/

You could try dissolving it in alcohol.

Paul Kiler posted this in another thread on fougère.

Basic Fougere
Lavender 14
Bergamot 8
Coumarin 12
Rose 5
Jasmin 4
Patchouli 2
Vetiver 10

There is a type of alcohol free perfume called Eau de senteur.

This is a quote from Sylvaine Delacourte - it's a Google translate version that I have tidied up with the entries in square...

Hi tmx

You raise a couple of questions and both of them are controversial.

1) Do you need to know chemistry to be a perfumer?
According to ISIPCA you do, and you must have done advanced...

If you're in the UK you could try the Cotwold Perfumery. The courses are run by John Stephen who has done things for Czech & Speake.

Some of the new Exclusifs are being sold off cheap, not by Chanel stores though.
Chercheminippes, if anyone's interested...

One method is to hide the top notes under more volatile materials.
You can see this in Shalimar where the balsams are covered with citrus and bergamot.
Another way is to use benjoin, but this is...

And it has no smell at all.

Essence & Alchemy by Mandy Aftel

RE: Love your newly-coined term: Shalimarites.

I suppose, being true to the spirit of the thing, they could be Shalimarettes... ;)

Tiare is macerated in coconut oil to make something called Monoï. I have read it's used as a natural remedy in Polynesia, and as treatment for sunburn. If it were just Gardenia tahitensis and coconut...

If you want more than 100ml try
www.mistralni.co.uk
They do 1litre for £18 or 5 for £32

Arctander says guiaicwood should smell 'delicately sweet, rosy-woody ... but it ... may have a "smoked ham" odor. He goes on 'it is conceivable that this odor, which was never reported before WWII,...

Can't say I've smelled any of them except Oud Wood which seems completely synthetic, and no way worth 230€ or whatever ripoff price it was asking.

If you want to get off the beaten track there are other places to go besides the touristic shops in the centre. There is a Guerlain shop at Sèvres-Babylone, which is across the road from Le Bon...

I would say leave your frags at home and bring your cc.

I seem to remember getting an oily bland type of rosy profile from palmarosa when I was doing materials 101.
Arctander wrote (in 1961) that it's a 'sweet floral-rosy odor [with] various undertones...

Whooo, yeah I was forgetting that Mouchoir de Monsieur

Do tell... what did?

Pour un Homme de Caron. Being the one that started fragrance for men (Jicky was originally meant to be a feminine) it must have had a near monopoly.

The Osmothèque uses brown bottles topped off with argon which are stored in wine coolers at 12°C.

What I did on my Holidays

I will be in Rennes - the capital of Brittany and I'm gonna wear Mitsouko.

The Parfum has a clunky vibe which is why I give it a *-*-* rating : fruit purée, fougère, spiky woods.

If not Yatagan then the more refined version Devin, but I still agree with Cook.bot on Aromatics Elixir.

Still waiting for L'Heure Bleue Extrait...

You could try a lower grade of alpha-Terpineol which has a disinfectant type odour with pine and distilled lime oil aspects.

This might be of interest :
https://www.perfumerflavorist.com/fragrance/rawmaterials/natural/Perspectives-on-Citrus-488747231.html
but you may have to sign up to read the whole article (it's...

Vintage Je Reviens (1932) and to a lesser extent modern formula Blue Grass (1934). These two depression era aldehydics are more about domestic propriety than sexy seductiveness, hence metal polish...

I tried it on a smelling strip and didn't like it, but that was back in the summer and I don't remember much about it now.

Who was the greatest composer? Bach, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Brahms, Schubert, Chopin, Mahler, Stravinsky, Debussy, Phillip Glass? What a pointless question...

Forget Fragonard, it's for tourists. Go for Nicolaï, there is one near the Picasso museum and Michel Almairac's boutique Parle moi de parfum is not far away either. If not there is also Marie...

Hang around the flea markets of Paris long enough and you may get lucky...

Soap actually doesn't smell soapy at all. I use an unperfumed vegetable soap made by Le Petit Marseiliais and it smells lightly, as RSG says, of fats or lye.

What I personally define as a soapy...

By Kilian's Smoke for the Soul is a credible go at Afghani Black.

There is no lavender in your formula, have you tried that?

Hmmm, something's up with the tablet...

Why is Basenotes repeatedly asking for cookie consent? And why do I have to sign in every time?

Curious to know what violet lead is...

Anything remind you of Jo Malone's Lime, Basil & Mandarin?

By chance I discovered Milky Musk by Michel Almairac today, released under his own label Parle moi de parfum. It's described as sandalwood and musks but thats only the base, it's actually a fig and...

Along with the burning of clothes using fur, Burberry were separately forced by Coty to destroy old perfume stocks as part of a tie up with the American giant.
...

Evidently its been redesigned for phones. The new layout only makes sense in portrait mode. Regrettably the content is still the same.

https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Prada/Prada-Amber-Pour-Homme-Prada-Man--1044.html
Maybe this will get you started.

http://www.basenotes.net/ID10211641.html

Leaving the shop and taking a walk around outside helps to clear the mind of odour impressions as well as resting the nose. It also allows you to get away from a pushy SA if necessary.

The very early ones were pressurised like an aerosol, you can tell them by looking - the pipe is thicker than normal.

87126

Smells pretty good too, in a Femme kind of way.

Oops...

87060

Calkin R.R. & Jellinek J.S. Perfumery : Practice and Principles, New York, Wiley-Interscience, 1994

You're not the only one who's fed up with what's going on at Prada perfumes :
http://uk.fashionnetwork.com/news/Exclusive-Prada-ends-perfume-license-with-Puig,1000318.html#.W22O2dSLSt8

What I'm wearing at the time.

Citron Noir

Yes, me too, but there's no chance of me getting it. The selling price on another site is $450 US!

Apparently it smells like a variation of No.5

Somebody on Fragrantica has recently offered to swap a bottle of Chanel No 46. Has anybody ever heard of this so called "unicorn"? You can see the photos of it here...

Yes, it has closed down.

It's the sale season in France and walking past a perfume shop the other day I noticed they had no less than three Pour un Homme flankers on offer. The 2014 Millésime version, Sport and the Parfum....

[Alaïa would] work on anybody who'd pose for Helmut Newton...


Deneuve, Kinski, Loomis, even Alice Springs, but not everybody - I was wrong, he even shot the odious Le Pen...
(Is it permitted to...