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  1. Re: Are there two versions of Bentley Intense?

    Rum isn't that expensive to make, especially if you're just making a rum with the intent of producing a byproduct like rum absolute. My understanding is that rum absolute is pricey if you're an...
  2. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    I can see that. It's certainly closer to tobacco than oud. Cedar has been used in a number of tobacco accords.
  3. Re: Are there two versions of Bentley Intense?

    I think it's rum absolute, not tonka (in an interview, Lorson went on record that she had the budget to use real rum absolute for this one).
  4. Re: Sample Pass and Testing -- Les Indémodables

    Yes.

    Vanille Havane would be a "purchase" for me at $3/ml.
  5. Re: Are there two versions of Bentley Intense?

    And my cynicism about the "reform" talk on this one grows, but we'll see.

    I'm pretty amiable towards the original two Bentleys, and find them to be more coherent fragrances than the much-vaunted...
  6. Re: Are there two versions of Bentley Intense?

    So, as noted, the Bentley Intense I know is the later formulation (my 2018 bottle was plenty loud, but had the "plastic" element folks talk about, which I don't think is down to budget as much as...
  7. Re: What is this sharp, peppery wood smell called?

    Yeah, norlimbanol has a gritty texture to my nose.

    What Alriyah is asking about could easily be another woodyamber like Ambrocenide.
  8. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    Now you *really* have my attention.
  9. Re: NEW: Calvin Klein - Euphoria Amber Gold Men!

    Looking forward to your take.
  10. Re: NEW: Calvin Klein - Euphoria Amber Gold Men!

    Wearing this again today and I feel like this one really slipped through the cracks. A very well-rounded, multifaceted perfume with a nice honey tone.
  11. Re: NEW: Tauer Perfumes -Cologne du Maghreb-

    Yes.

    ACDD is his true masterpiece. And one of the few fragrances that truly stuns me all over again every time I smell it.
  12. Re: NEW: Tauer Perfumes -Cologne du Maghreb-

    Intrigued by this.
  13. Replies
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    [CONUS] Re: Spring Cleaning Sale!

    Bump
  14. Re: What are you guys getting for spring/summer?

    I am notoriously off-season in my purchases; I make almost all my "summer" fragrance pickups during cool months (and vice versa).

    That said, I recently snagged a vintage tester of Colonia Assoluta...
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    Re: Rich, Green & Masculine

    It's the best classic fougere around, IMO.
  16. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    This sounds like my cup of tea.
  17. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    Yeah, still, I'd be more self-conscious wearing something like Eau d'Hermes or even Cartier Declaration.

    I have samples of the following arriving this week:

    4160 Tuesdays The Dark Heart of Old...
  18. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    As far as ouds go, I didn't find T.Habanero all that challenging. It has animalic facets in the opening, but it quickly shifts into creamy-woody territory that's only about as animalic as old-school...
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    Re: Best current designer frags May 2021

    Cartier Pasha Parfum
  20. [CONUS] Re: NEW STUFF! The Brooks Otterlake Swap Thread

    Bump
  21. Replies
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    Re: Rich, Green & Masculine

    Floris 1962
  22. Replies
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    Re: Compare some Summer Cheapies

    The Lalique is nice, as is Eau de Rochas.

    Also consider Banana Republic Neroli Woods or John Varvatos Artisan Pure (assuming you like neroli). They're both nicely composed.
  23. Re: Gucci Guilty Absolute vs. Encre Noire a l'Extreme

    Agreed.
  24. Replies
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    Re: best aromatic designer fragrance

    What kind of aromatic are you looking for? Could you list some key notes or a "vibe" you're looking for? Do you want something retro or very contemporary?
  25. Replies
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    Re: tom ford tobacco vanille

    This is why I prefer its two major imitators: Velvet Teddy and Tabac Rouge, the former of which is produced by Estee Lauder, effectively moving TV downmarket. They both have better blends with more...
  26. Re: Santa Maria Novella. Which are your favorites ?

    I own four SMNs currently:

    Acqua di Colonia
    Acqua di Cuba
    Fieno (vintage bottle)
    Verbena (slightly older bottle)

    I have also owned Tobacco Toscano and tried a number of others (Patchouli...
  27. Re: Which Hermes masculines should one buy ahead of H24?

    All of them?

    (Just kidding. I haven't tried H24.)
  28. Re: What is your threshold for making a purchase

    I don't know that this is quite the scale I would use. I do a lot of blind-buying and then reselling/swapping.

    I would say the fragrances I keep I keep because of an affirmative answer to the...
  29. Re: Which Fragrance Are You Currently Waiting To Be Delivered In The Mail? (2021)

    Yeah, I talked about it in two threads.

    Vanille Havane is very nice. Not a revelation, but a very refined take on the tobacco + vanilla theme with a hay-tobacco note that's very earthy and virile,...
  30. Re: The worst fragrance you've ever smelled?

    Varanis Ridari is coming for you.
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    Re: Red Tobacco by Mancera

    https://www.comercialmoyano.com/2146-thickbox_default/italian-red-velvet-fashion-jacket.jpg

    (This is just my joking way of saying that it's a very loud, chaotic fragrance.)
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    Re: Acqua di Parma - why so little love?

    It is, insofar as the traditional offerings on which they built their reputation no longer resemble themselves. I'd love to get a truly vintage bottle of the original Colonia, which I don't find...
  33. Re: Which Fragrance Are You Currently Waiting To Be Delivered In The Mail? (2021)

    Carner Barcelona Sandor 70's

    As recently as a number of days ago, I said I wouldn't grab it because it would be redundant in my collection. After sampling Vanille Havane, I missed Sandor 70's...
  34. Re: Michael For Men by Michael Kors - Does anyone still wear this?

    It comes off as less sweet in body wash/hair putty form.

    I don't think it's trying to be a true retro fragrance, it's just reworking the Chergui/Tobacco Vanille/Pure Havane style around a bit of...
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    Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Floris Leather Oud. No rose, but there are other florals in play.
  36. Re: Beau de Jour to become part of Tom Ford's signature line?

    For the record, I get the resemblance to Zino, but I find the current version of Zino harsh and unpleasant.

    Beau de Jour is kinda boring and it isn't one of my key fougeres, but I get along with...
  37. [CONUS] Re: NEW STUFF! The Brooks Otterlake Swap Thread

    Bump
  38. Re: Goodfellow, Cremo, Duke Cannon, Every Man Jack...how are they?

    Duke Cannon and Every Man Jack... meh. Haven't liked any of them.

    Cremo and Goodfellow are hit-and-miss but have a few solid ones. The Goodfellow Ginger & Rum one is pretty good.
  39. Re: Michael For Men by Michael Kors - Does anyone still wear this?

    The top is very aggressive and very sweet, like a stickier, darker Tobacco Vanille. It mellows out once you get to the drydown and it's more of a dried fruit-leather-tonka thing.

    I didn't like it...
  40. Replies
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    Re: S.T. Dupont Perfect Tobacco

    Adding a note to say that Perfect Tobacco is a richer version of Penhaligon's Cairo, which I sampled recently. They share a near-identical rose-vanilla heart, and are absolutely equal in quality...
  41. Re: Michael For Men by Michael Kors - Does anyone still wear this?

    I've been revisiting 18.21 Man Made Sweet Tobacco, and while the opening is quite different from Michael for Men, I do think the drydown enters Kors territory: honeyed fruit tones and suede. And...
  42. Re: If you have to choose a perfume for me ? (:

    The perfect suggestion.
  43. Replies
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    Re: Acqua di Parma - why so little love?

    I think what these houses all have in common is that they're largely "unsexy" - which makes them unworthy fodder for a fragcomm that is less excited by artful perfumery than it is the prospect of...
  44. Re: A fine fragrance production supervisor answers questions on Reddit

    This is why brands ultimately make a profit even when their wares end up at discounters.
  45. Replies
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    Re: Acqua di Parma - why so little love?

    Based on my vintage bottle of Assoluta, AdP's quality has diminished over the years.

    AdP is still a fairly good value house at discounters, but I'm just not sure it has many truly great...
  46. Re: Sample Pass and Testing -- Les Indémodables

    Wearing a heavier application of Vanille Havane today has me enjoying it more. That earthy-hay tobacco comes out a lot stronger when you don't skimp.

    Pricepoint is still an obstacle, though....
  47. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    Anecdote Havana Lounge

    This "drugstore niche" (to borrow the term coined by Varanis Ridari) scent is a tobacco in name only; it's really a pink pepper-grapefruit-floral with a touch of sunscreen...
  48. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    I dunno.

    Even the greatest fragrance can't contain all the possible shades and colors and textures in the world.

    There are a number of "good" frags I own just because they do a particular facet...
  49. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    It's not in my top echelon, either, but thanks to Ropion's good judgment as a perfumer I think it's still the best "designer" tobacco from the past two decades.

    I almost got rid of it but my wife...
  50. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    I don't know what this means for Oud Malaki.
  51. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    Une Nuit Nomade Memory Motel

    This is actually lovely. I think tobacco is more of a fantasy note here, but it does evoke tobacco in its smoky-woody atmosphere. It's essentially a more refined...
  52. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    https://y.yarn.co/8a2ecd36-77cc-4379-b06d-9efa13b6a1a7_text.gif
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    Re: New Pasha Perfume any try it yet?

    Glad to see this is still garnering acclaim.
  54. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    If you're not getting it from the start then you're not finding it, since it's front-and-center (which is mystifying to me, since I find the unsmoked-fine-cigar-in-a-humidor accord very strong and...
  55. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    It is if you're the kind of person who prefers Atman Xaman to Tobacco Vanille. (And I am.)

    Bois 1920's prominent beeswax is a really smart addition, bringing in that creaminess to blend with the...
  56. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    I love Bois d'Ombrie, but for me it's primarily a spicy, vegetal leather.
  57. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    Trying out Bois 1920 Oro today.

    It's one of the "suederal-rasberry" Tuscan Leather successors, but it's not a clone. The leather accord opens up but moves to the background pretty quickly and this...
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    Re: Modern Masculine Lavender Fragrance

    Yes. There's a resemblance.
  59. Re: Fragrances that make you think of other Basenoters when you wear them.

    I always think of Cook.bot re: Sycomore.
  60. Re: What's the brightest/liveliest/cheeriest fun scent for a larger than life character?

    deleted
  61. Re: What's the brightest/liveliest/cheeriest fun scent for a larger than life character?

    Hanae Mori HM EDT.
  62. Re: Tom Ford 'Resort Collection' - return of Neroli Portofino & Mandarino Acqua, Oud Minerale & more

    Yes, this is a good description of Oud Minerale 2.0.
  63. Replies
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    Re: When the ad copy gets to you...

    For transparency, this was inspired by a blind buy of my own:

    https://www.trumpers.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/havana-cologne-50ml.jpg

    Introducing our new Havana Cologne.

    This...
  64. Re: Tom Ford 'Resort Collection' - return of Neroli Portofino & Mandarino Acqua, Oud Minerale & more

    I don't find it generic.
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    Re: MDCI Invasion Barbare Thoughts?

    So I just did a side-by-side with Invasion Barbare and Hanae Mori HM and am I the only one who sees a direct connection between these two?

    The openings are very, very similar, Hanae Mori HM just...
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    Re: Gucci Guilty EDP

    I can see that.
  67. Replies
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    When the ad copy gets to you...

    Have you ever blind-bought a fragrance just because the ad copy and fragrance branding is telling a story that appeals to you?
  68. Re: Best aquatic / fresh ambergris fragrances

    Yes! Sydney Rock Pool needs more love.
  69. Re: Tom Ford 'Resort Collection' - return of Neroli Portofino & Mandarino Acqua, Oud Minerale & more

    Lighter and fresher about covers it. Still recognizeable, but more wearable, and I think the added "airiness" helps open up the composition a bit and add some of that "sea air" roominess.
  70. Re: Best reasonably priced leather fragrance?

    There's always Nabeel Arab Tradition (that's the TL clone, right?).

    I think GGA is a well-built fragrance but I don't know what I'd want my car to smell of it.
  71. Re: Has anyone else tried 2020-2021 batches of Guerlain Classics?

    My 2018 Héritage EDT lasted me all day, too. I found it very strong.
  72. Replies
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    Re: Floris Suggestions

    I hope you like it!

    If you don't... well, I didn't tell you to blind buy it.

    I do think it's seriously good. A quintessentially British take on the modern leather style with robust performance....
  73. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    Call it like you see it, but I'd like to point out that while this certainly uses synthetics (like that sticky honey note--very much like the one later used in Velvet Teddy), Tabac Rouge does use...
  74. Re: Sample Pass and Testing -- Les Indémodables

    Yeah, and the pricing here is just a bit hard to swallow given that it doesn't really offer anything that could qualify as a "signature" accord or effect.


    Cheers.

    I like the tobacco note...
  75. Re: Sample Pass and Testing -- Les Indémodables

    I'm trying out Vanille Havane today. It's a really lovely woody vanilla (more of a "true" vanilla--dark and rich--than a sugared vanilla). I can certainly pick up the tobacco, which is a very...
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    [CONUS] Spring Cleaning Sale!

    Hi all!

    I've been doing some spring cleaning and have lots of stuff for sale. Shipping is $5, but if you spend over $50 shipping is free.

    I ship to CONUS addresses only.

    ARAMIS Havana...
  77. Re: Best reasonably priced leather fragrance?

    10 sprays of GGA? Yikes!

    I find GGA potent.
  78. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    For the record, I find nothing very feminine about Sandor 70's, which has a strong "horse stable" vibe that places it firmly in masculine territory.
  79. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    Sandor 70's is seriously, seriously good. But I have plenty of Michael for Men, which isn't identical, but is still in that ambery-animalic-suede-tobacco space. They'd continually compete for wearing...
  80. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    I'll know it when I find it.


    I read another review that said it's pretty much a sequel to Patchouli 24 but built around tobacco.

    I'm always willing to give Menardo the benefit of the doubt.
    ...
  81. Re: Best reasonably priced leather fragrance?

    La Yuqawam?
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    Re: Floris Suggestions

    For me, the primary feature of Leather Oud is the floral-supported saddle leather accord, which is a gorgeously rendered, gentlemanly take on modern leather accords (like an upgraded, more refined...
  83. Re: Dunhill Launches Four Mens Scents in Signature Collection!

    I did end up purchasing Moroccan Amber, and wearing it a bunch has changed my impression of it.

    It starts soapy and sharp, like a sequel to Prada Amber, but evolves into dusty, woody territory...
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    Re: Floris Suggestions

    British Leather is good. Floris Leather Oud is great.
  85. Re: Aramis: has the end of this classic arrived?

    If you apply it, you'll be wearing it for a full day whether you like it or not.

    To me, Aramis--groundbreaking and iconic though it is; I think it might qualify as the first true "powerhouse...
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    Re: Traditional Eau de Cologne

    So I have a new gold-standard EDC (though it's really an EDP, but built on the EDC foundation):

    Caswell-Massey Supernatural VI. Absolutely stunning stuff, and with projection and longevity rarely...
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    Re: Fort and Manlé

    How do folks feel about Maduro?
  88. Re: Let's talk about Bentley for Men Intense

    So I found a substitute of sorts that I prefer to both Bentley EDT and Intense: Calvin Klein Euphoria Amber Gold, which sits in a parallel lane: leather, incense, dry herbal notes, with a lovely,...
  89. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    I have an older (ca. 2006) Herrera for Men that is pretty lovely with a unique "curried" tobacco base that still makes it a bit of a standout even if the fragrance otherwise feels a little more...
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    Re: Rogue Perfumery Your Favorites?

    I don't find the pricepoint egregious, even if it does situate Rogue in a place where there's a lot of intense competition. In a world where synthetic stews regularly retail for well over $2/ml under...
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    Re: Marc Jacobs for Men

    I've tried an older bottle.

    It's a very nice, well-rounded take on the fig fragrance style. Better constructed than Fico di Amalfi, but less memorable than some of the more adventurous takes on...
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    Re: Rogue Perfumery Your Favorites?

    Definitely interested in Derviche II.
  93. Re: Best aquatic / fresh ambergris fragrances

    The best aquatic ever made is Arquiste Sydney Rock Pool.
  94. Replies
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    Re: Cartier Pasha question

    The "gold trim" vintage (pre-oakmoss restrictions) is an oakmoss bomb.

    Not sure how old your bottle is. If it's from after the initial wave of oakmoss restrictions, it's probably not too different...
  95. Re: Euphoria Amber Gold - what parallel dimension are these flankers coming from?!

    Yes, it's more a case of a niche-y profile being rendered with designer materials.

    It's nice, though, and I sold it short when I first tried it. The honey note is nicely rendered, as is the...
  96. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    Well, that's harsher than I would be.

    Feels to me like a high-quality soap with a classic touch, like something you'd get in a fine, old Italian hotel. But it's not a revelation.

    Derviche is...
  97. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    It's the one Rogue Perfumery offering I've considered acquiring. A nice, gentlemanly soapy-green tobacco.

    But, honestly, I think it's a bit pricey for what it is.
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    Re: Floris Suggestions

    It's very persistent, so wearing it is a bit of a commitment. Still, I love it. The ultimate gentleman's saddle leather: a bit clean, a bit crisp, a bit earthy.

    It's the scent Dunhill British...
  99. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    I, for one, enjoy Acqua di Cuba most in summertime!
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    Re: Floris Suggestions

    Well, I don't think the four you smelled are representative of Floris' quality overall. In general, Floris' lineup post-2010 is better than its surviving lineup from pre-2010. Neroli Voyage is better...
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