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  1. Re: Exploring Paul Kiler's Skeleton Fougère Formula

    Oh, btw, in my suggestion the idea was not to replicate geranium, which geraniol and/or geranyl acetate don't come close to, but rather intentionally to differ due to other differences.

    If wishing...
  2. Re: Exploring Paul Kiler's Skeleton Fougère Formula

    As a neighborhood starting point, I would say 5% of either or of total.

    I'm glad to see you trying and reporting including Carnation. I had wanted to do that sometime back for a really 1800's...
  3. Re: Exploring Paul Kiler's Skeleton Fougère Formula

    Btw, fougeres often use geraniol and/or geranyl acetate rather than geranium itself, and you can try that if interested.

    Especially as it would seem to fit your tastes (you have really nice stuff...
  4. Re: Exploring Paul Kiler's Skeleton Fougère Formula

    Thank you!

    The Pell Wall is Givaudan, and Pell Wall seems to me to take all proper handling and documentation care, so no worries there in my view. You simply are a strong perceiver of the...
  5. Re: Exploring Paul Kiler's Skeleton Fougère Formula

    Good for you that you can smell benzyl salicylate so well! For me it is quite light (floral, balsamic, "airy") and I use it to affect perception of a formula rather than be a note itself.

    I do...
  6. Re: avoiding ingredients classified as toxic to aquatic life?

    If it's a material you can smell on application, when you can't smell it anymore it's not on your skin significantly. That's the simplest answer.

    Molecular toxicology is so complex that there is...
  7. Re: mixing Isopropyl Myristate (IPM), Dipropylene Glycol (DPG) and Glycerine

    http://www.saveonscents.com/product_info.php?cPath=12_117&products_id=3572 $15.99 for a quart. (My apologies for not remembering who posted recently, to give credit :( )

    There is no such actual...
  8. Re: Nice set of floral headspace GC/MS's:

    High vapor pressure causes a given material that's at some percentage in a liquid to escape more to the air than another material at the same percentage but with lower vapor pressure.

    So as an...
  9. Re: Nice set of floral headspace GC/MS's:

    Paul, I did notice that quite a few were lacking things I would expect to see.

    I had actually failed to notice that totals didn't come to 100%. Thank you.

    Hopefully there is still useful...
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    Re: Irones/powdery

    You have gotten me imagining Mr Mackey saying "Don't smell from bottles. You can get really, really high... M'kay?" (seeing Kenny get excited about the idea) "Mmm, I probably shouldn't have said...
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    Re: Aventus ingredients

    Not speaking for Triscuit, but isn't real patchouli oil quite distinct in odor from patchoulol or Clearwood, or any attempted reconstitution/fake?

    But as to what kind -- which sort of distillation...
  12. Nice set of floral headspace GC/MS's:

    http://old.iupac.org/publications/pac/1990/pdf/6207x1357.pdf

    (Always remember if wanting to make a llquid mix that will smell similar to the headspace, don't use the proportions shown, but divide...
  13. Re: mixing Isopropyl Myristate (IPM), Dipropylene Glycol (DPG) and Glycerine

    What you will find is each essential oil will smell somewhat different in IPM as in DPG, and the profile of how it smells over time will differ also.

    Further, mixtures of oils, or oils and...
  14. Re: Looking for dosage advice for homemade molecule 05 Cashmeran

    Actually I did understand you to mean as much as 10% in final fragrance, to which I was saying the above!

    (My reason for translating to it to concentrate was that many of us more commonly think in...
  15. Re: Looking for dosage advice for homemade molecule 05 Cashmeran

    Ouch! :)

    10% of final formula would be pretty much like an EDT with 50-67% Cashmeran!
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    Re: Tuberose Bases and thoughts from PK

    When placing an order with Christine, one is allowed 5 free samples (yay!!!!!!), and just ask for the PK Tuberose to be one of them. She has not added it to the free samples list yet, but she does...
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    Re: Introduction & Thanks giving!!

    Hello Bogan!

    Glad to hear from you, very glad for your success, and hope we see you regularly! :)
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    Re: Tuberose Bases and thoughts from PK

    Btw I just received a sample of Paul's Tuberose base from PSH.

    I was only able to give a test sniff rather than do any work, but, very nice. It has considerably more to it in terms of detail and...
  19. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands? (EDIT, CP has new owner)

    On the off chance she may read this, FWIW here are my bottom-line-promoting suggestions:

    1) She had mentioned to me in e-mail that filling samples was taking time they just didn't have, hence the...
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    Re: Tuberose Bases and thoughts from PK

    Thank you for the qualifier, but while I could be mistaken in deciding as I did, it is my decision to go with your observation, and please feel good about saving me money! :)

    I have Liberty...
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    Re: Tuberose Bases and thoughts from PK

    Thank you. I'll save my money then. It's expensive.

    It's a shame because at least according to the GC/MS, it's remarkably high in natural-isomer jasmin lactone and a particular methyl isoeugenol...
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    Re: Tuberose Bases and thoughts from PK

    By the way, which EB Tuberose was this?

    I was considering purchasing the Fine, which I have not had before, but haven't as yet because (sadly) it will be months likely before I can get to my...
  23. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands?

    Absolutely!

    It was also great that for anything that Christine didn't have, there was a second retailer that would usually have it and if so, would have an unmodified SDS showing origin, just as...
  24. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands?

    Basically an entirely new company, or I guess the qualifier "basically" isn't really needed.
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    Re: geosmin room scent

    Hi omniflora,

    As I have not used it but Paul has, I would go with what Paul said. But which of what he said, I don't know!

    (0.0001% which is 1 in a million, or 1 in 10,000.)
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    Re: geosmin room scent

    I don't use geosmin myself but from a lot of available information, the 0.1% you cite is orders of magnitude too much.

    (In other words, hundreds of times, thousands of times, something like this.)...
  27. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands?

    Btw in possible explanation of what's going on, but not in any way saying it's how to do business, UPS and Fed-Ex can be b****** for the small business person.

    As a personal example: A few years...
  28. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands?

    +1000% :)
  29. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands?

    I do wish her the best but I'm wondering how much business sense is being displayed.

    What I posted about originally -- the wild, huge-print material on the front page that was pretty much...
  30. Re: How to dose Javanol in a single molecule perfume?

    In that case the same most I'd consider would be the 0.06 percent of final formula and I'd try 0.01 percent first, evaluating when there was no chance I'd been exposed to stronger. Personal opinion...
  31. Re: How to dose Javanol in a single molecule perfume?

    How far away do you want to be smelled from and for how long do you want the room to smell of Javanol from your being there?

    Without an idea of what effect you are wanting, no one could possibly...
  32. Re: Natural Florals that Give me a Headache...

    I understand now! :)

    Ambroxan doesn't bother me but the super-ambers (as I call them) or sharp woody ambers (as they have been called here) are pretty violent to my nose unless used very lightly...
  33. Re: Natural Florals that Give me a Headache...

    Did you mean Ambroxan also can do it, or, that it occurs when using several of the musks, often when Ambroxan is in there at the same time?

    (As I didn't think you meant "musks including Ambroxan"...
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    Re: Tuberose Bases and thoughts from PK

    Yes, the Firmenich is very good, and very commercial, by which I mean it's very suited to such and undoubtedly is used commercially as you say. Back when I was trying to do a tuberose base, which I...
  35. Re: Johnson & Johnson’s aroma chemical list used for their scented products

    Thank you but no, was looking for the classic lemony one! I didn't even know a Woody one ever existed!
  36. Re: Johnson & Johnson’s aroma chemical list used for their scented products

    Great stuff.

    Thank you!

    Btw, not in the slightest a criticism of your post, but what an example of line-extension explosion this is. I just wanted to see what is in Pledge. Little did I know...
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    Re: Bioethanol base possible ?

    If it is Bitrex only, great, it's fine to use.

    If planning for commercial use, at least in the US it would be as Paul says: you'd need the SDS. But if for personal use and trusting the company,...
  38. Re: Johnson & Johnson’s aroma chemical list used for their scented products

    Wow!

    Thank you!
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    Re: Working with Iris Abs Synth 184031

    There are two different related questions here:

    Prediluted for use in making actual batches, and
    Prediluted for use in making test batches or for blotter work

    The first for me is based on...
  40. Re: Safety: the endocrine activity of some PCM (polycyclic musks)

    Briefly, the NOAEL (no adverse effect level) in rats from oral consumption is 5 mg/kg, much less than for Galaxolide, corresponding approximately to a 60 kg human eating 20 mg/day. From that, frankly...
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    Re: Modern fragrances without 'the big four'

    Oh my goodness. It's distressing to find out that claims have been posted on content of commercial fragrances as if authoritative, but actually as baseless as that. Perhaps more than once, perhaps a...
  42. Re: Safety: the endocrine activity of some PCM (polycyclic musks)

    On Tonalide, I'm afraid I have to get back to real work but will return to that subject later!
  43. Re: Safety: the endocrine activity of some PCM (polycyclic musks)

    Btw I should explain, as some reading will not know, what "statistically insignificant" means, as well as "statistically significant."

    It has absolutely nothing to do with importance of effect.
    ...
  44. Re: Safety: the endocrine activity of some PCM (polycyclic musks)

    It doesn't "seem" bad at all to be statistically insignicant -- it means that absolutely no conclusion of any effect at all can legitimately be drawn, while in many instances various other hypotheses...
  45. Re: Safety: the endocrine activity of some PCM (polycyclic musks)

    Thank you for the added information!

    Briefly (obviously, from time-stamps if nothing else) I see that the second is reported as statistically insignificant, so that one is going nowhere. The first...
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    Re: sky high levels?

    Thank you, Jamie!

    I had been wondering what the historical, so to speak, overdose limit was for Sandalwood. Very good to know! As well as the other great information.
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    Re: Bioethanol base possible ?

    You're very welcome! I hope it turns out well and you manage to find good information, such as that it is not denatured, or it is safely denatured. Maybe that can turn up somehow.
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    Re: Bioethanol base possible ?

    To the OP: You would be well served to ignore comments regarding distilling beverage alcohol or drinking alcoholic beverages. Neither the thread or forum is about drinking or beverage distilling, and...
  49. Re: Safety: the endocrine activity of some PCM (polycyclic musks)

    Galaxolide is not a polychlorinated biphenyl (PCB) so of course it should not be listed as one. If it was so listed in your first link, that was a mistake

    You cite that it was found that it was...
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    Re: Bioethanol base possible ?

    Methanol has a colorless flame, and addition of a colorless component won't be noticeable.
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    Re: Modern fragrances without 'the big four'

    Well I did not mean no one should do such even if they enjoy, but rather that while Grojsman's concept was creative and many other overdosing concepts have been as well, going and overdosing all the...
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    Re: Bioethanol base possible ?

    If you think that proves there is no methanol in there, I am missing how it would prove it.

    I have no information whether there is or isn't, but in this case, one would want the information rather...
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    Re: Orange Peel Tincture

    So far starting with 200 proof has avoided problems for me, but wet enough material in low enough ratio of alcohol would become a problem.
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    Re: Bioethanol base possible ?

    There may be a country in the world that sells pure ethanol with no issues, but most don't because they like to control drinking of ethanol and like beverage taxes on such ethanol.

    Accordingly,...
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    Re: Modern fragrances without 'the big four'

    Somehow I'm reminded of Bach's 21st child, PDQ, who despite genetics and provided heritage proved an idiot. I'm referring to the below:

    There must be a perfumer who, having the Grojsman accord,...
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    Re: Modern fragrances without 'the big four'

    I agree with your general point but disagree with a possible (not necessarily intended) implication: Many perfumes which did use large amounts of expensive ingredients didn't "just" use these but...
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    Re: Orange Peel Tincture

    I am speaking only speculatively as I have not tinctured such things:

    As essential oils are not water soluble or only scarcely so, and leaving them to dry will cause essential oils to evaporate...
  58. Re: Books on Perfuming/Tincturing (re: drying times and methods i.e. recharging)

    Houses: Guerlain, Chanel, Hermes, etc.
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    Re: Damascones Not On GCMS Reports

    Laboratoire Phytochemica is very good but for example this Rose Otto finds none: https://www.planttherapy.com/test_reports/Rose%20Otto%20-%20RK0100.pdf

    The EODB is not complete but...
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    Re: Modern fragrances without 'the big four'

    The only one I would miss much is Hedione; I find IES useful but don't at all feel I need it, and I certainly don't need "gamma" methyl ionone though regular methyl ionone and particularly Iralia is...
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    Re: Strange white "Moss" in my blend

    It really sounds like water is present.

    Btw, there's no rational reason for an alcohol for those purposes to be as high as 96% alcohol, other than if further dilution is expected, and besides this...
  62. Re: Essential oils settled to the bottom of %96 ethanol

    You could also try decanting off the ethanol and evaluating it, as well as seeing how much odor strength remains in the oil. Quite possibly your ethanol fraction is fine and has nearly everything and...
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    Re: Strange white "Moss" in my blend

    It seems to me something is not as it should be, and the alcohol is a more plausible candidate than many or maybe all of the materials are.

    Kind of coincidentally to a recent thread, is it a...
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    Re: Strange white "Moss" in my blend

    Perhaps someone can spot an ingredient there that has limited solubility in alcohol, but if there is one, it's one of the ones I don't use myself so can't say. It seems a puzzler.
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    Re: Strange white "Moss" in my blend

    "Aromachemicals only" is too vague.
  66. Re: Has anyone tried the proprietary alcohol/carrier blend from Perfumer's Apprentice

    I want to emphasize there is a zero evidence PA hired anyone let alone a carrier specialist to formulate this product, or that professional perfumers have the view claimed: as the assertions could...
  67. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands?

    Hmm. The front page just vastly changed. As a result, anyone clicking now won't have any idea what I was talking about.

    Which is fine. It appears I helped then. I don't think I would have been the...
  68. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands?

    What she wrote me gave the problem as materials flying off shelves so fast that running 3 shifts 24/7 wasn't enough, and the solution as being more hires that would get that caught up by the end of...
  69. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands?

    I have even less desire to order now (just speaking for myself.)

    Also, certainly a very different tone, in the new parts of the website, the e-mail I received, and some outside-CP writings I saw....
  70. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands?

    Thank you db.
  71. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands?

    I also had e-mailed Alora as I was a little put off by several things on the website and intended to offer useful suggestion, since as a long time customer that unless things changed, I really didn't...
  72. Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands? (EDIT, CP has new owner)

    Does anyone know if Creating Perfume is still in Susan's hands?

    I am getting a very different "vibe" from the webpage and her e-mail no longer appears anywhere on the site so far as I can tell,...
  73. Re: Enfleurage pommade mixing with alcohol - Pommade/Alcohol ratios?

    First please know that I have not worked with this exact problem, only related ones, and am giving you only theory and what has worked for related problems.

    The basic process here, of where a...
  74. Re: Has anyone tried the proprietary alcohol/carrier blend from Perfumer's Apprentice

    And to close out on my part anyway, a thought experiment:

    Might one not have one perfume that has 10 or 20% musk, and another that has only 1%?

    Or have one perfume with lots of Benzoin, Oak...
  75. Re: Has anyone tried the proprietary alcohol/carrier blend from Perfumer's Apprentice

    Agreed completely.

    And another problem I have with it, albeit maybe only philosophical, is that the beginner commonly is all too tempted to seek "magic bullet" solutions, such as (and related to...
  76. Re: Enfleurage pommade mixing with alcohol - Pommade/Alcohol ratios?

    I had somewhat forgotten about this book, thank you Marlaney!

    A momentary digression with some favorite quotes:

    " If refinement consists in knowing how to enjoy the faculties which we possess,...
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    Re: Living Libations?

    Thank you Paul!

    I thought the same, about what I'd expect on many things for personal quantities, but (of course) on the one thing I particularly had interest in, seemingly quite high.

    For sure...
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    Re: Green tea absolute

    I don't know what materials but can suggest a method I think helpful which does not use up any materials at all:

    Hold your bottle of green tea absolute where it has a medium odor strength to you....
  79. Re: Solid Fragrance not lasting long what can I do?

    It's puzzling that the Somalian CO2 anyway would be a heart note, as the COA seems all top notes down to viridiflorol 0.74%, except for serratol 17.86% which I don't even know what it is and...
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    Living Libations?

    I'm sort of surprised to see an apparently promising US supplier I somehow hadn't heard of before but that may the case.

    I was looking to see if there was a source of Raspberry Leaf Absolute...
  81. Re: Has anyone tried the proprietary alcohol/carrier blend from Perfumer's Apprentice

    Nice price! And exactly the right stuff.
  82. Re: Has anyone tried the proprietary alcohol/carrier blend from Perfumer's Apprentice

    LOL!!!!!!!! :)

    I did not see that!!!

    I don't know on the 40B alcohol. I use culinary solvent as it's also food grade:...
  83. Re: Has anyone tried the proprietary alcohol/carrier blend from Perfumer's Apprentice

    The price of longer top notes with Cremophor and Glucam is they are flattened as well, and there is no reason that every fragrance should get the same treatment. By adjusting for your need you are...
  84. Re: Solid Fragrance not lasting long what can I do?

    Yes, various essential oil sites can't be trusted on their claims of things supposedly being base notes, and the like.

    E.g., Eden Botanicals claims their Frankincense Frereana is a base note and...
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    Re: The Sandalwood Game Proposal & Entries

    Btw at this point, as we have or soon will have at least two choices on santalol which are substantially different from each other, it will probably be helpful to name which santalol product.

    On a...
  86. Re: Has anyone tried the proprietary alcohol/carrier blend from Perfumer's Apprentice

    No, and personally I wouldn't. I have absolutely zero reason to think that their pre-decisions on fixatives intended for no particular formula would be better than my choices for a specific formula,...
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    Re: Syringes - Why Not?

    Yes, at a glance (I should devoted more) it's possible to gain the impression the OP was asking about dispensing and not as a replacement for weighing, as I did so, but about 2 seconds reveals as you...
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    Re: Syringes - Why Not?

    Btw I did not mean to measure amount, but to dispense. I do see now the question was for measuring.
  89. Replies
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    Re: Syringes - Why Not?

    I'm fairly sure the search engine would have turned up syringes.

    They can be good but also can have problems with the plunger swelling on exposure to some pure or concentrated materials, and while...
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    Re: Tuberose Bases and thoughts from PK

    Great! Thank you, Paul.
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    Re: Tuberose Bases and thoughts from PK

    Btw as Paul posted some historical discussions up there,

    The "extender" formula I had there was inspired by Kacper...
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    Re: Deep masculine fragrances

    I have to agree on 2 points:

    1) Synaesthetic (crossing senses) descriptions often don't manage to communicate well, although sometimes they do
    2) I have never perceived or thought of a smell as...
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    Re: Tuberose Bases and thoughts from PK

    Well I have been checking PSH nearly every day and still no luck!!!

    In the meantime, as I've mentioned I liked to an extreme degree the Tuberose Organic that EB sold many years ago, but not what...
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    Re: About microdosing

    I do have some tendency to miss providing the very concise yet sufficient answer! :)
  95. Re: Alcohol maturation, cant it happen in the bottle?

    I will be interested in answers from other members but if I were short on time relative to the date the formula might be evaluated and also wanted the absolute simplest thing, rathe than some...
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    Re: About microdosing

    I don't know what standard usage might be among professional Perfumers.

    To me in perfuming it means using a material in a very small quantity much less than one might ordinarily use, to achieve a...
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    Re: Nature in a bottle supplier

    Very glad it was of help, Amr!
  98. Replies
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    Re: Nature in a bottle supplier

    For me, an instant tip-off is when a company sells "absolute oils." Fraudulent every time IMO.
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    Re: Uncedcyclic aldehyde

    A bad misspelling of undecylenic, I would think. C11.
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    Re: Few things I wish I knew beforehand

    In general yes, as they are both used in many formulas and used in relatively larger amounts, so for example while I might get by a long time with just a sample amount of a high impact material, for...
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