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  1. Replies
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    Re: What is this ammonia like smell?

    On extremely rare occasions, a blend does actually create ammonia, due to a nitrogen molecule present.
    It happened to me, but for all of my other longtime professional Perfumer Friends, it had never...
  2. How to make clone oils last longer - why doesn't my clone oil last longer?

    Now I understand better the issues with copycat clone oils sold to unsuspecting people trying to make a buck or a rupee, or a ruble...
    I have recently seen a large number of clone style formulas. ...
  3. Replies
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    Re: Coconut water accord

    I made this coconut accord several years ago...


    Now, I see it is pretty basic, plus you would need to add the watery aspect to it...


    PK Coconut accord from 2015


    Acetate C-9
  4. Re: A thought experiment about a fantasy accord!

    A Lot of these types of ideas/things, are centered around two criteria:

    1. Associative - based solely upon personal experience... I don't think that there is some universal fear smell. There...
  5. Replies
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    512

    Re: finally, a realistic tobacco accord

    The only issues that I can foresee here is that it might be kind of "thin" for a tobacco accord, and I really don't see anything that will make it last very well. Might be a fine topnote, though.
  6. Replies
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    366

    Re: HELP, with this formulation.

    Yes, there is no other way for us to offer any assistance without it.
  7. Replies
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    521

    Re: Good quality essential oils

    Do not buy from those aromatherapy sites, and do not buy from those sellers touting "Therapeutic Grade".
  8. Thread: CK One

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    638

    Re: CK One

    I would venture to say it came from Perfuwoman's site, before it became a pay system.
  9. Replies
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    1,319

    Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Yes, the caproate is the same as the Heptanoate/heptoate.
  10. Replies
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    1,319

    Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Allyl Caproate is at PSH as Allyl Heptoate (Allyl Heptanoate)
    Verdox is at PA
  11. Replies
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    Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    I don't think I've tried this... Looked on ebay, nearly all of the bottles there are in a red box... is this not the right red box then?
  12. Replies
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    671

    Re: Terre d'Hermes reformulation?

    Thanks Jamie, and Needaname, your notes have been added to my cheap PA GCMS. :-)
    Juan in Puerto Rico and I went in together for that test result, so I have also forwarded the revised notated GCMS...
  13. Replies
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    1,319

    Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    For the Oakmoss portion, I would recommend either Oakmoss Givco, or Oakmoss Firbest.
  14. Replies
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    Re: Question about fixatives and essential oils

    Since Jojoba is actually a wax, and TEC isn't a fixative, you don't need TEC, and your Jojoba already retards evaporation, because it lasts so long. But also, maybe you want less oil/wax carrier? ...
  15. Replies
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    Re: Tuberose Bases and thoughts from PK

    Oh, yes, You Bet I'll keep making it... :-)
    Thanks Casper...

    I think the secret to not getting a material to stick out is always surrounding it with friends. Maybe your formula is shorter than...
  16. Replies
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    671

    Re: Terre d'Hermes reformulation?

    The very basic PA GCMS that I have shows these naturals as probable:
    Cedar
    Patchouli
    Citrus
    Geranium
    Lavender
    Vetiver (Haitian)
    (But if there is Vetiver in there, the amount doesn't really...
  17. Replies
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    33,594

    Re: Free Fragrance Composition Software

    Well, if you think that I am jealous, of you or this, that would not be me. Since you did not name the person, (obviously important not to), I cannot know to whom you speak, except that I made a...
  18. Replies
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    Re: Newbie help on my formula

    Looks very sweet...
  19. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    Don't be fooled into taking courses at Perfumersworld or Perfumer Studio.
  20. Re: Transporting aroma-chemicals when moving across the world?

    Bill has a good point about lack of documentation, sometimes, waiving MSDS documents in their face helps.

    But, I would at least ask your country and UK. UK has exceedingly strict laws about...
  21. Replies
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    3,045

    Re: What would you add/change in this formula?

    Bill made a great explanation for you, SG.

    The point is that you need to increase your sample size to accommodate / decrease variability.
    In your sample size, one drop of diluted material in...
  22. Replies
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    Re: Ice Cream Accord

    I keep all three names on this product:
    propenyl guaethol, iso safroeugenol, vaniatrope
    Because it sits on the fence between Vanilla, Guaiacol, and a Eugenol family member.

    Needaname, you must...
  23. Replies
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    Re: What would you add/change in this formula?

    Tensor, I think I need a phone call to Tech Support! :-)
  24. Replies
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    3,045

    Re: What would you add/change in this formula?

    Hi Tensor, So sorry to forget your pseudonym...
    I have enough trouble with names, and then second or tertiary names, I lose track... :-(

    Dissolved in when purchased:
    IPM - Isopropyl Myristate...
  25. Replies
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    3,045

    Re: What would you add/change in this formula?

    Since your name is *Geosmin, I will tell you that Geosmin seems to do nothing, the more and more you dose in.
    It is because the threshold for perception is so low, (single digits ppb), and your...
  26. Replies
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    Re: Hiring a nose - cost spectrum?

    Dreamstar, there are also other Perfumers very capable to hire, like myself. I'd be happy to have a conversation with you...
  27. Replies
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    Re: Ice Cream Accord

    I'll mention that between Delta Decalactone, Gamma Undecalactone, and Gamma Nonalactone, these three lactones are almost 20% of the Magnificent Mango formula.
    So you won't likely need any more of...
  28. Replies
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    Re: What would you add/change in this formula?

    SuicidalGeosmin

    This spreadsheet has been extremely helpful to me in calculating all the percentage information. I have used it for years.
    It was made mostly by my friend Mike Storer, another...
  29. Replies
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    Re: What would you add/change in this formula?

    So, what did this formula smell like when you made it?
  30. Thread: Gardenia GCMS

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    471

    Re: Gardenia GCMS

    Think of a regular North American Gardenia, rather than a Chinese gardenia....

    I think of damp freshness green... and a little bit of spice.

    The first 8 molecules are basically green,...
  31. Re: Best Bang For Your Buck Fragrance Sizes & Oil List For Beginners

    100 proof is far too much water... That is common drinking alcohol, seems to me...
    For drinking alcohol, even the 150 proof is too low.
    You need the 190 / 192 proof Spirytus or other products in...
  32. Re: Best Bang For Your Buck Fragrance Sizes & Oil List For Beginners

    "Organic" - for anything in fragrance, is only for those people who need or want to subscribe to that philosophy / religion. Otherwise, it is mainly a way to add 3X the cost for no good reason.
    ...
  33. Re: Best Bang For Your Buck Fragrance Sizes & Oil List For Beginners

    You never mentioned Candles.
    Do not buy Essential oil citruses for candles, only synthetics without Limonene.

    Your key accords will probably work much cheaper in a candle.

    I think that...
  34. Thread: Gardenia GCMS

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    471

    Re: Gardenia GCMS

    I don't consider 0.29% Indole as being High %.

    alpha-Berganotene should likely be alpha-Bergamotene ???

    Next, I think that you have to make sure that you are comparing properly... I have 11...
  35. Re: Best Bang For Your Buck Fragrance Sizes & Oil List For Beginners

    I am afraid that I am unaware of her...
  36. Re: Best Bang For Your Buck Fragrance Sizes & Oil List For Beginners

    Please. STOP. Watching. Roger. Dove.

    Pay him ABSOLUTELY NO ATTENTION!

    he is NOT A PERFUMER.
    He is a SHOWMAN, only.

    He will not model being a perfumer, he only puts on a show of bluff and...
  37. Replies
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    Re: Advice on diluting (or not) some naturals

    Dilution always depends upon two things:
    1. What level everything else is used at/diluted, or not.
    2. How large your sample size is. if one drop equals 1 percent of your trial sample size, then...
  38. Re: Understanding Firmenich Accord No. 208689 Fougère Woody

    It's pretty typical for clone formulas that only really care about the top and middle notes, and use the very cheapest fixatives.
  39. Replies
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    Re: Hiring a nose - cost spectrum?

    Poteko, what city are you in?
  40. Replies
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    Re: How Do You Organize Your Materials?

    Organize the way that your brain thinks.
    Don't impose someone else's brain upon your own.
    Don't put your organization in stone.
    Expect to change it again and again as you grow.
  41. Replies
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    Re: Vigon alike webpage

    As mentioned, no one has prices on their website, but Vigon.

    And Vigon prices are quite high, unless you buy in large qty.

    Depending upon your prospective volume of purchase, would determine...
  42. Replies
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    Re: Most rare or expensive material?

    The absolute loses the possibly objectionable topnotes...
  43. Replies
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    3,026

    Re: Most rare or expensive material?

    Yes, I believe so...
  44. Replies
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    Re: Most rare or expensive material?

    Lilac essential oil
    Jasmine enfleurage essential oil
    Pear Essential oil
    I only know of one person doing real plumeria essential oil, worldwide
    Lavender Seville Absolute may fall aside, I may have...
  45. Replies
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    Re: Most rare or expensive material?

    Most of the most expensive materials are not really made anymore.
    They are just not economical enough to be made now.
  46. Thread: Freshness

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    662

    Re: Freshness

    I guess they never met a Perfumer who can put "fresh" anywhere they want...?
  47. Replies
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    1,920

    Re: Andrea Aromatics Leather Base (Sold By PSH)

    Mike,
    Here are some percentage usages in fragrances of mine.
    Granted, with the level of complexity in my scents, there is guaranteed to be other leather materials accomplishing similar olfactory...
  48. Thread: Solar Notes

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    1,332

    Re: Solar Notes

    Yes, I think that your association of "cold" fits well for Methyl Salicylate, but not for any other salicylates..
  49. Replies
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    1,952

    Re: Composition contract, selling formula?

    No one else seems to be able to make my perfumes, but me. I always ship out concentrate for someone else to dilute and bottle.

    I've been burned dozens of times, and always now get my money up...
  50. Thread: Solar Notes

    by pkiler
    Replies
    19
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    1,332

    Re: Solar Notes

    OK, I am going to be a bit unobtainium / obsequious here...

    8 parts Mandarinal Schiff base
    1 part Limediene 1%
    1 part Long Lasting Lemon Base
  51. Replies
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    Re: Baccarat Rouge Long Drydown

    Ah, James, So sorry about the misspelling! I misread the words run together on your BN name...

    David Ruskin and I have had a long conversation going about the large amounts of DPG and other items...
  52. Re: Beyond Lilyflore

    Christine Asked me my opinion of Beyond Lilyflore, here is part of my response, plus an addendum:

    RE: Beyond Lilyflore

    I think that we (Perfumers and learners ) are all in a time of stumbling...
  53. Replies
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    Re: Baccarat Rouge Long Drydown

    Musks almost didn't make the formula cut.
    There is 1000X more DPG than Ethylene brassylate.

    James Hillier isn't far off, but his ratio set would be 4X too much Ethyl maltol.

    Looks like the...
  54. Replies
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    Herbenone - Isopulegol Enone, Isopulegylenone

    Herbenone, L-Isopulegol Enone, Isopulegylenone
    CAS #36129-14-3

    Debuted as Herbenone by the Company P2, in 2021.
    PK received sample 5-24-2021

    My first response to smelling from the bottle top...
  55. Replies
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    Re: Farnesol - Can't smell it!

    TGSC calls it "delicate".
    It is not strong, it is a light molecule. It also alst for a long time, have you tried to place on a strip at full strength and let if sit for a few days, and keep smelling...
  56. Thread: Frankincense

    by pkiler
    Replies
    8
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    647

    Re: Frankincense

    Frankincense tears dissolve nearly completely into Ethyl Alcohol.

    You can pick, say, a 25% strength, and dissolve the tears into the alcohol without much issue...
  57. Thread: Frankincense

    by pkiler
    Replies
    8
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    647

    Re: Frankincense

    Buying resin / tears?

    Get the Latin binomial species name, and then the location it was grown.
    All of the classifications that you give are pretty worthless to anyone else in Western countries to...
  58. Re: ENCRE NOIRE Attempt formula - sugestions, help!

    Isobutyl Quinoline at 10% dilution
  59. Replies
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    Re: A tease, make sure you check PSH this weekend!

    I told Christine that there are a bunch of little birdies sitting on the fence, waiting for birdseed to get tossed out to eat... she laughed, and said it would be posted today...but its already 6pm...
  60. Replies
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    1,334

    Re: DPG smells like a gasoline/kerosene

    DPG should normally be rather odor free. DPG does actually go bad, with attendant bad odor. It is possible that what you bought is already bad.
  61. Replies
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    Re: Does not project...

    This is your real formula:



    Iso e super
    210
    23.35%


    Sylvamber
  62. Replies
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    Re: Mid to base notes...

    You may also consider some Labdanum to bring the Myrrh up into the middle.
  63. Replies
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    Re: Does not project...

    Not helpful.

    Take your blends formulas and part them out into the entire formula, then it is readable.
  64. Replies
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    Re: Mid to base notes...

    You've already received good advice, to which I may add these materials: Rose crystals, and Phenylacetic acid, but I thought that you were the Rose King? :-)
  65. Replies
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    Re: A tease, make sure you check PSH this weekend!

    I don't use very much, but I had to replenish my tiny supply from Apothecary's Garden this month.
  66. Replies
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    Re: A tease, make sure you check PSH this weekend!

    I will say that this material is something that I've never had this exact product before. ;-)
  67. Replies
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    Re: Salicynile (Firmenich) - thoughts?

    Because it's not a salicylate, it's a nitrile.
  68. Replies
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    Re: The Smell of Communism

    This post is by the notorious Leonard Payne.
    Can we get it removed please?
  69. Replies
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    Re: The Smell of Communism

    In 1978, Prague was the place where I smelled the most fear... maybe because I spent the most time there.
  70. Replies
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    Re: Sparkling Lemon/citrus Accord

    As far as this Armani scent goes, how much DHM is in your formula? I would surmise this Armani might have a good slug of DHM, as a naive supposition...

    If that is not what is needed, I would...
  71. Replies
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    Re: Rice accord ideas?

    Thanks RSG for taking credit, I am so sorry..
  72. Re: sparkle and definition in a raspberry accord, with a related hedione question

    Have you looked at the TGSC files / formulas?

    This one uses Cherry Pentenoate, ethyl acetate, and ethyl acetoacetate for your answer.

    Raspberry perfume
    Patent 3,931,293 Processes for producing...
  73. Re: sparkle and definition in a raspberry accord, with a related hedione question

    My first reaction was 2-methyl pentenal, and DMS, in microdoses.
  74. Replies
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    Re: White cedarwood vs Atlas Cedarwood

    Trying not to hijack this thread on Cedarwood... The Vetiver sold by Texarome is Haitian vetiver, and is a pretty typical product from Haiti, with their terroir, and distillation style and technique.
  75. Replies
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    Re: Best ingredients for roller bottles?

    Tell your customers not to place alcoholic perfumes meant to be sprayed, into roll-on dispensers again, but only use spraying dispensers.
    Spray is formulated for a spraying action, and substrate. ...
  76. Replies
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    Re: Best ingredients for roller bottles?

    A present client wants the same scent for both alcoholic spray products and Rollerball products. They are two different formulas for the perfume concentrate.
  77. Replies
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    Re: Musks that work well with neroli

    Galaxolide
  78. Re: Liatrix Absolute Substitute Has Been Fixed, But For Other PA "Absolutes," Don't Believe Your Ey

    So, I have purposefully stayed out of this conversation.
    I will add however, that the PA Scotts Valley complex of buildings that they occupy is quite large.
    Maybe 1/3 to 1/2 as large as Vigon on...
  79. Re: Seeking advice on how to make homemade perfume/FRAGRANT using Canonball flower/couroupita guiane

    I would place flowers in, without crushing or grinding, just whole and fresh...
  80. Re: Seeking advice on how to make homemade perfume/FRAGRANT using Canonball flower/couroupita guiane

    change the flowers when they start to turn brown...
    Use flowers picked first thing in the morning...
  81. Replies
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    Re: Benzyl Cyanide and weird regulations

    Call again and talk to another person. Ask for the specific legislation causing all naturals with trace materials to be ineligible for use, IF they mention the same thing.
  82. Replies
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    1,015

    Re: Fixonal Heiko, ever heard of it?

    Heiko would be the manufacturer of the raw materials.
  83. Replies
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    1,015

    Re: Fixonal Heiko, ever heard of it?

    Fixonal is synonym for Hydroxycitronellal, per Arctander Chemicals book, entry 1728
  84. Replies
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    Re: Gun powder accord

    Filipsson, being from Europe, you may not really know the smell of a North American Skunk, from driving by a roadkill on the highway. It is extremely strong... and getting skunk spray off a dog who...
  85. Replies
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    Re: Neroli Constituents

    Did you try, and then discard use of Methyl Heptenone?

    I've never had Methyl Heptenol, so, put a sample in my Vigon Cart for today's purchase, thanks for letting me know about it, sounds...
  86. Re: Cherry as top note and chemical analysis question.

    From my Cherry Notes Files, quoting from Harry Sherwood, Frank Cardillo, and Akshay Bhatia

    Cherry pentanoate, Fructalate, Anisyl acetone, Loads of fruity AC will subdue the sharpness of...
  87. Thread: ambroxan help

    by pkiler
    Replies
    7
    Views
    625

    Re: ambroxan help

    Dior Sauvage is about 11% Ambroxan.
    No, I don't go that high myself in my formulations...
    But you ARE only adding one molecule, so you have to have enough qty in there to smell...
  88. Re: Cherry as top note and chemical analysis question.

    ???
  89. Thread: ambroxan help

    by pkiler
    Replies
    7
    Views
    625

    Re: ambroxan help

    triple the dose and then try to smell. then make it 6g to 50ml, if you can't smell it.
  90. Replies
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    Re: Neroli Constituents

    153436
  91. Replies
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    Re: Gun powder accord

    Looks like Gunpowder residue odor has many obscure materials for perfumery, some not used at all...

    Lots of benzyl/benzene molecules:
    ethylbenzene, benzaldehyde, 1,2,4-trimethylbenzene,...
  92. Replies
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    Re: Is this normal Beta-Damascone?

    Yes, I am certain that good alcohol is difficult to find in a muslim country.

    And if you didn't know, my Wife is Indonesian... That's why I know a bit of your language...
    And if further...
  93. Replies
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    Re: Is this normal Beta-Damascone?

    Aginbayu, Apa Kabar?
    Can you send the MSDS for the alcohol?
  94. Replies
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    Re: Is this normal Beta-Damascone?

    Honestly, I would need to know where you purchased the Damascone. It is possible that is has already been diluted with a fixed oil, and is therefore not going into the alcohol.
  95. Job Posting - Perfumer Trainee, South Carolina, USA

    Job Posting - Perfumer Trainee, South Carolina, USA.

    Mandy Aftel sent this to my attention this morning, and I called the employer and asked for permission to post here in this group.

    ...
  96. Thread: Ambrene 50?

    by pkiler
    Replies
    18
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    6,366

    Re: Ambrene 50?

    Can also try Heliotropex N IFF for a replacer.
  97. Replies
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    Re: The Sandalwood Game Proposal & Entries

    Working up Marlaney's William today...

    Written upon spraying:
    About two full sprays on my left hand.
    Right away, a nice pineapple punch...

    Written now, 11+ hours later, after wearing all day:...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Very nice looking free formula

    Yes, Citrus in the base is problematic.
    You can make your own schiff bases for that, you can try out Elemi resinoid, or you can try the Long Lasting Lemon base at PSH.
  99. Thread: Aventus musks

    by pkiler
    Replies
    29
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    8,084

    Re: Aventus musks

    Actually, I really DO trust this GCMS Analysis person, as he has done a lot of work for me. Who I don't trust, and neither did the GCMS person, is Brandon Greatheart.

    Regarding the next portion...
  100. Thread: Aventus musks

    by pkiler
    Replies
    29
    Views
    8,084

    Re: Aventus musks

    Hi Guilhal...
    I started writing this many hours ago, but got called away, Sorry...

    But it looks like you have started to smell it, that's terrific. In time you can train your nose to smell...
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