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  1. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    No, I knew what you meant. I just thought you’d be interested in knowing about “the other Portos.” And, of course, Dumas is why Aramis had a fragrance called Portos. (Probably why Balenciaga did,...
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Hednic would say you are. :) There was actually an Aramis fragrance called Portos that’s very different from the Balenciaga.

    I like them all, but I like Balenciaga Portos more.
  3. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    153841

    Crown Perfumery - Marechale (original)

    Ostensibly a reconstruction of a formula found in the Crown archives dating back to 1669, when it was created for Madame la Maréchale...
  4. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    And I was doing so well…

    153800

    Berdoues - Cordoba PdT


    153806

    Nettie Rosenstein - Mr. Ghe
  5. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    153774

    Crown Perfumery - Matsukita

    I have no idea where anyone got the idea this was originally issued in 1929. Salts, Scents & Society says 1892, and I’ve found ads from 1893.

    According to...
  6. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    I have a large sealed 30 Hoche bottle of Eau Sauvage, too. Some day I’ll have to do a head-to-head (or is that hedione-to-hedione?). Indirectly, Eau Noble compares favorably to Eau Sauvage. I’ll have...
  7. Replies
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    Re: Looking to buy discontinued perfume. Ideas?

    Me, too. I believe eBay’s default international shipping service won’t send perfumes overseas, so the listings don’t show up on eBay.com. However, I’ve found sellers perfectly willing to ship from...
  8. Re: Scents smell different depending on where they are applied?

    I've always found that scents I apply in the bathroom smell better than those I put on in the hallway.
  9. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    I'll bet. I got a vintage sample from LiveJazz that I liked so much, I plunked down for this 450ml sealed bottle. This is my first time cracking it open.
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    Syncing this evening with…

    153674

    Le Galion - Eau Noble

    What Neroli Portofino wishes it smelled like.
  11. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    153673

    This morning, I threw on Tom Ford Neroli Portofino for the Friday “Mediterranean” sync. This evening, I decided I could do better with Le Galion’s answer to Eau Sauvage—and a...
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    Re: Roja vs Clive Christian

    The only reason it would matter is if one cared that he's presenting himself as the perfumer. It's strictly an optics thing, and perhaps because one imagines that, at that price point, they're buying...
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    Hmm, another good option for my SOTE. So many frags, so little concept of which ones are "Mediterranean"…
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    When it comes to samples, having is one thing and finding, quite another. If I can locate my Corsica Furiosa, it will be my SOTE, but meanwhile I’ll be in this:

    153660

    Tom Ford - Neroli...
  15. Re: What’s the rarest fragrance in your collection

    Cordoba is a good one—I've got a mini. I keep meaning to pick up Tabacco d'Harar, which was by Giviemme (a play on G.V.M., for Don Giuseppe Visconti di Modrone).
  16. Replies
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    Sticky: Re: Vintage Fragrance Ads / Adverts

    I actually have those Kings Men colognes. Trust me: mermaids would ignore you.
  17. Re: "Oriental" fragrances: NY Times magazine article

    Aatish Taseer, the article's author, doesn't argue for "canceling" the term "oriental," but rather takes a much more detailed and nuanced look at the cultural relationship between East and West in...
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    153619

    Crown Perfumery - Crown of Gold

    c.1910, Crown succumbed to Francophilia and pitched this as Couronne d'Or, selling it in a fancy crystal flacon for upwards of what would now be...
  19. Re: What’s the rarest fragrance in your collection

    It's HIS Northwoods cologne and aftershave by The House for Men.
  20. Re: What’s the rarest fragrance in your collection

    Indeed!
  21. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    153605

    Crown Perfumery - Crown Court Bouquet

    The one review on BN begins, "This scent now called Crown Bouquet…" Well, no. Those are two different fragrances. Crown Bouquet is one of Crown's...
  22. Re: The tribulations of hating vanilla fragrances. What notes bother you?

    Sort of like kopi luwak and other “natural selection” coffees.
  23. Replies
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    Dr. T. plans to wear Irisss, although with all the masks, no one will be able to smell it.
  24. Re: What’s the rarest fragrance in your collection

    I wasn’t much of a fragrance collector before I joined BN: I wore JPG Le Mâle for years, then graduated to Terre d’ Hermès. My wife, the beautiful and talented Dr. T., bought me a Clive Christian...
  25. Re: What’s the rarest fragrance in your collection

    Believe it or not, they all smell good to great. The only ones I haven’t tried yet are the 100-year-old Crowns, which will come at the end of my current Crown survey in the Vintage SOTD thread.
  26. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    153580

    Crown Perfumery - Malabar

    The late, great JTD wrote a review of Malabar that he posted in a few places, but for some reason it’s not on BN. I don’t think I can improve upon it,...
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Thanks! I’d say Esterhazy is unisex—as it probably was back in the day—but it requires some serious lemon love to embrace the “Pledge accord.” You might find Ess Bouquet an easier wear.
  28. Re: What’s the rarest fragrance in your collection

    I have more than my fair share, but these are some of the contenders:

    153537

    153538

    153539

    153540
  29. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    153509

    Crown Perfumery - Crown Stephanotis

    Most sources, including the BN directory, give the date for this as 1921, but Salts, Scents & Society says 1873, and as I've found a Crown Perfumery...
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Why, thank you, sir.
  31. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    153467

    Crown Perfumery - Sarcanthus

    Sarcanthus is an old name for the orchid genus cleistoma, native to parts of Asia and various Pacific islands. Whether there’s so much as a drop of...
  32. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    According to Askinson:

    Esterhazy Bouquets:


    A. Bouquet d’Esterhazy (French formula).


    Tincture of ambergris ½ pint.
    Extract of neroli 1 qt.
  33. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    153443

    Crown Perfumery - Crown Esterhazy

    I will once again refer you to the directory review by Bokaba for the capsule history and olfactory profile of Crown Esterházy. Basically, Bouquet...
  34. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Get the EDT (or “cologne”) from the Charles of the Ritz era. I have a quart of it. Awesome stuff.
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Don’t confuse Lanvin for Men with Monsieur Lanvin. Both are fantastic, but if you’re hankering for civet, it’s Monsieur you want.
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    153402

    Crown Perfumery - Crown Rose

    The late, great JTD’s narrative about this being a subversive sandalwood masquerading as a simple tea rose soliflore is perhaps a tad dramatic, but...
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    153385

    Crown Perfumery - Ess Bouquet

    For a good historical account of Ess Bouquet, read Bokaba’s review. But regarding his conclusion that it’s “strange and greatly out of place in today's...
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    Re: Gucci Envy now 1,150.00

    There are a fair number of bottles of Envy for Men selling for half this price or less. Beyond that, there are many available choices other than Envy, most of which are not comparably pricey niche...
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    There’s a fair amount of difference between the original Eau Sauvage cologne, Eau Sauvage Parfum 2012, and (so I’ve heard) ESP 2017. I have plenty of the cologne and ESP 2012 if you need samples.
  40. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    “Hurry up, honey: that fragrance isn’t going to pick itself.”
  41. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    153338

    Amouage - Silver Cristal EDT for Men

    For Mother's Day, I told Dr. T. she could pick my fragrance.
  42. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    Mercado Libre is a Latin American e-commerce network. Like eBay, they have branches in different countries. Unlike eBay, they only cater to Spanish-speaking countries. The .mx site is the Mexican one.
  43. Replies
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    Re: Gucci Envy now 1,150.00

    It’s probably someone selling a bottle for $400 from a different account, trying to make that look like a good deal. No reason to take it seriously.
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    It's that fragrance, but I'm pretty sure this bottle isn't from 1933! Pre-1980, though.





    I'll be happy to relieve you of your disappointing bottle.

    I'm more intrigued by the Embrujo—I...
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Yes, somehow, odor has mutated from “scent” to “bad smell.” But of perhaps even greater interest is the number 200. Crown Perfumery launched in 1872, and they boasted over 200 fragrances by 1873. I...
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    Nope, not yet. Some sellers seem to have it on MercadoLibre.mx, but if those prices are in $US, that ain't happening.
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    Re: My Grandmothers Collection

    Thanks. I thought it might be a Worth, but I wasn't sure which.
  48. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    153276

    Myrurgia - Embrujo de Sevilla
  49. Re: Givenchy Gentleman silver vs. black themed box - which came first?

    Correct. Ref. numbers that close are the same formulation in different size or type (splash vs. spray) bottles.
  50. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    153260

    Crown Perfumery - Tanglewood Bouquet

    Basenotes and Fragrantica have this as from 1932. Parfumo has it as 1927. Perfume Intelligence has both: from 1927 as "an edp with top notes of...
  51. Re: Givenchy Gentleman silver vs. black themed box - which came first?

    Older box:

    153258153259

    Note that this is a US box: French boxes may have different indicators of vintage.

    The oldest bottles will state concentration in ° rather than %, and will not have...
  52. Re: Givenchy Gentleman silver vs. black themed box - which came first?

    I’ve seen variation of both silver-on-black and black-on-silver boxes indicating different vintages. While I think the very oldest boxes I’ve seen are black-on-silver, that alone is not a sufficient...
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    I had hoped my references to minimalism and cubism would have dispelled any expectations of a literal similarity. Rather, I meant I imagined Roudnitska had fixed on a few key elements of Mitsouko and...
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    153232

    Continuing the sync with an old friend: Eau Sauvage.
  55. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    It is that. Whether it's accurate is anyone's call, but that's (part of) what I got out of my first wear.
  56. Re: A fine fragrance production supervisor answers questions on Reddit

    Unless their other costs (marketing, etc.) don't support that model.
  57. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    Oh, she already does, thanks. This will be her backup bottle!



    Well, ah'm-a gettin' me the 'MERICAN stuff!
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    Re: My Grandmothers Collection

    Yeah, me, too. Funel is one of those off-beat brands I haven't had a chance to sample that piques my curiosity.
  59. Replies
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    Re: My Grandmothers Collection

    That's a nice collection, all quality stuff even if most of it hasn't tremendous market value. If you're looking to sell, I'd go on eBay and search for each of them with the Sold Items option turned...
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    See the Sync thread. Dr. T only just got home, so she's missed everything but the drydown.
  61. Re: A fine fragrance production supervisor answers questions on Reddit

    Try this:

    https://old.reddit.com/r/fragrance/comments/mxixl0/ama_a_fine_fragrance_production_supervisor/
  62. Re: Rubbing salt in the wound: fragrance hobby and forum posting... are we getting insane?

    I'm sorry to hear your friend cashed in his chips.
  63. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    You've convinced me (along with the reviews):

    153200

    Louis Féraud/Avon - Féraud pour Homme

    Also, for Dr. T:

    153201
  64. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    In that case, I despise it, but I'll take them off your hands cheap.
  65. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    153199

    Dior-Dior parfum

    For the Friday Dior sync.
  66. Replies
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    153185

    By request: Dior-Dior.

    Opens with a blast of controlled chaos, a bit like being whacked on the nose with a well-stuffed leather pomander. It then settles down into a toasted fruit tart...
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Pics?
  68. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    153154

    Crown Perfumery - Crown Heliotrope

    A snootful of amaretto. Smooth, natural, and a strong performer, this is no doubt fantastic for heliotrope enthusiasts, of which I am not one....
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    Your wish is my command. Watch this space.
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    153134

    I’m starting my Crown Perfumery journey with one I only have in samples: Alpine Lily.

    Some reviews describe this as "lily of the valley" or "aquatic." I would say neither is accurate.
    ...
  71. Replies
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    Re: Latest Clive Christian - Matsukita!

    I’m not a huge adherent to hard gender lines in perfumery. That said, Crown’s original 1892 Matsukita and the 1990s reissue were launched as feminines. I have as yet no idea how much resemblance...
  72. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Good catch. To me, that indicates my bottle is older.
  73. Replies
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    My wardrobe contains:

    Diorling
    Eau Sauvage
    Eau Sauvage Parfum 2012
    Fahrenheit
    Jules

    plus samples:
  74. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Well, according to the batch codes…

    This was Crown Perfumery’s “standard bottle” from the late 19th century until perhaps as late as the 1930s. These bottles could be from as long ago as 1887....
  75. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Palais Jamais is hanging in there just fine, so no SOTE. But tomorrow, we start down the home stretch:

    153103
  76. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Very much. It's a bit like an expansion of Etro Vetiver, which I also like very much.
  77. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    153075

    Etro - Palais Jamais
  78. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    The pyramid lists some 20 notes, but the net result is leather and oakmoss. It’s a smooth, rounded leather, with no petrol or other sharp notes, but also no significant floral or sweet notes. The...
  79. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    153021

    Farina Gegenüber - Russisch Leder
  80. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    This is the only version I've tried. I'm enjoying it. Soapy, mossy goodness. It's not exciting the way Balenciaga Portos was last night—that's some major dudely stank right there. But it's kinda like...
  81. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    153001

    SIR - Irisch Moos
  82. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    I got both a spray and splash glass bottle for that purpose. Amongst other things, I confirmed it’s the exact same juice. Great stuff.
  83. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    200ml splash. Smells awesome.
  84. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    This finally arrived, just in time to be my SOTE:

    152927

    Balenciaga - Portos
  85. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    Thanks! It's a blind buy for me, but the price was right.
  86. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    And VR, too.

    It looks like the reason “Dick Clark Signature Cologne” is so (allegedly) valuable has (surprise) nothing to do with how it smells. As soon as it was released, Max Factor brought...
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    Oh, you want that one. Or Masculin is the best of the Bourjois “Masculin” line by a stretch. Also the hardest to find.
  88. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    152876

    Coty - l’Origan

    Yeah. This is the good one.
  89. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    Indeed, there's no sense in a world where Elvis Presley cologne is worth less than Dick Clark cologne.
  90. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    Sorry, Papsi! Have you ever tried Lasso?
  91. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    152840

    Lenthéric 12, because I loved my mini so much.


    152841

    Patou Lasso, to augment my collection of Lasso dribs and drabs.
  92. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    152827

    Coty - Émeraude

    This was my mother-in-law’s scent when Dr. T. was a child, so I hope it brings her back fond memories.

    As for me, I find it too much like the aspects of Shalimar I...
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Nah. He was happily in the room with his mom: half guarding, half napping. Any position with his belly exposed signals comfort and trust.
  94. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    152754

    Chillin’ for your birthday.
  95. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Now THAT’S a birthday scent! Happy birthday, sir!
  96. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Yep, they’re embossed, not just printed to look as if they were.
  97. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Perhaps more satisfying to look at than to wear. I haven’t got Chypre yet, save as a sample (which I liked): most of what’s on the market is either Pfizer era or overpriced. But I’ll likely get a...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    Sure, they smell different: “Lapidus pour Homme” and “Ted Lapidus pour Homme” are completely different fragrances. I’m much more of a TLPH guy, but LPH has its fans.
  99. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    152746

    Coty - l’Aimant

    Reading the various reviews of l'Aimant is a bit like the tale of the blind men grasping at the elephant. "It's like Chanel no. 5!" "No, it's like Bal à Versailles!" "No,...
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Well, we usually start with what hits us at just the right moment, after which expanding beyond that is a challenge we either welcome or reject.

    Not that there's anything wrong with Chuck! There...
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000