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  1. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    OK—next batch! I snagged a 16-scent selection of Teone Reinthal Natural Perfume samples from Swoleosis in the BN marketplace, so I'll be running those down for the next 2–3 weeks.

    156474

    I'm...
  2. Re: Your advice about Cravache (Robert Piguet), please

    I agree with Grayspoole that nearly 2€/ml is a bit steep for an EDT, but that's what most vintage Piguets are going for these day—save that, last I checked, Fracas can be had for less, and Bandit...
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    Re: Annick Goutal has a vintage thread様ook!

    If you mean the original Charles of the Ritz Lanvin Vetiver, yes indeed!
  4. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    I went through a day with one on each arm, and found them remarkably similar through most of their evolutions—that is, except when it came to longevity. On my skin, the vintage version remained...
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    156462

    Dunhill for Men cologne

    Lunching at an old-fashioned leather booth steakhouse, so this seemed appropriate.
  6. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    You’re all speaking my language.
  7. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Of course, it’s also possible my source was confused, or I was. But I think it was her.
  8. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Magic 8 Ball says: Nathalie Gracia-Cetto.
  9. Replies
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    Re: Judgment of Fragrance

    Well, that's certainly the most practical application, in the sense that buying fragrances is ever practical.
  10. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Whereas, because I’m in the music business, failing a drug test for me means they didn’t find any.
  11. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    SOTE:

    156400

    Profumum - Olibanum

    This smoky mineralic incense is about as far from gourmand as one can get, and that suits me fine. I’m curious to see where it goes, but it needn’t go...
  12. Replies
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    Re: Judgment of Fragrance

    My judgment of fragrance starts with the visceral: how strongly do I like or dislike it. After that, it's all about figuring out why, which is as much a quest for self-knowledge as for knowledge of...
  13. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    “I’m sorry, but you’ve failed the bagel test, so you’re grounded.”
  14. Replies
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    Re: Annick Goutal has a vintage thread様ook!

    I have a boatload of vintage Eau Sauvage and any number of EDCs and EDC-inspired EDTs that I'm not in much need of another. I obviously like the style, but apart from a couple of Trumpers on my...
  15. Replies
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    Re: Annick Goutal has a vintage thread様ook!

    EdM is on my “short list,” as is Duel. 1001 Ouds wasn’t on my radar, so thanks for that one! We’ll see: I am often surprised by the gap between what I expect I’ll like and what I actually do.
  16. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    156381

    Histoires de Parfums - 1740 Marquis de Sade

    Thorny reputations pique my curiosity, and a scent named for the Marquis de Sade promises thorns even without its own bad-boy rep. So, I was...
  17. Replies
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    Re: Annick Goutal has a vintage thread様ook!

    I don’t, either. I actually abhor tomatoes as food, but the leaves as a fragrance note are something else. For that matter, I’m undecided about fig. But, hey, if I can score a sample, I’ll try it. I...
  18. Replies
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    Re: Do You Spray Perfumes Before Sex?

    I spray perfume during sex.

    There's a double entendre in there somewhere.
  19. Replies
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    Re: Annick Goutal has a vintage thread様ook!

    I'm not a devot馥 of the house, having been unwowed by Eau di Fier, Eau du Sud, and Myrrhe Ardente. I do, however, have and enjoy Encens Flamboyant parfum, and I'm gearing up to buy a vintage bottle...
  20. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Oh, you don't want him stoned. He's a pilot.
  21. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    Maybe that's just my natural ambrosia.



    May have. I haven't worn it often or lately, so I'll have to revisit it. I know Manny can come strong with the jasmine, but I don't recall that being the...
  22. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    I think the only pic on this page using imgur is aero58's, and it's not causing any delays here.
  23. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    I'm not certain about "more leathery," but they are three decidedly different fragrances, even if all working roughly the same territory.


    I loved that when I tried it: I'm curious to read your...
  24. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    Fuller review to come, but the difference are interesting considering how both have been lambasted as Bel Ami clones. I’m not an enormous fan of PM’s opening cumin blast, but I’m giving it time to...
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    156343

    Puredistance - M

    In comparison to Roja Dove - Fetish

    Considering that both are credited to Roja Dove and criticized for cloning Bel Ami, you'd think they'd smell alike. Au contraire,...
  26. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Wearing Etro Vetiver for Father’s Day dinner.
  27. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    I知 running behind on comments: hope to catch up tomorrow!
  28. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    156281

    Xerjoff - Richwood

    If you're after opulence, you'll find it here. (Cook.bot must hate it.) Richwood opens with enough olfactory calories to make butter look like skim milk. Gorging on...
  29. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    SOTE:

    156243

    Profumi del Forte - Versilia Vintage—Ambra Mediterranea

    For the sake of comparison, the other amber in my current sample lineup. Notes to follow.

    *
  30. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    156235

    St駱hane Humbert Lucas 777 - ヤ Hira

    The BN directory pyramid only lists amber, no doubt because SHL cites "fossilized amber" as the sole olfactive note. However, the SHL website also...
  31. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTN:

    156168

    Ralph Lauren - Polo

    Warner vs. Cosmair

    Dr. T., not a Polo fan, is at a conference, so it seemed an opportune evening for this shootout. To my nose, the differences are...
  32. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    156158

    Frederic Malle - French Lover

    I'm not sure what I was expecting, but not this. Fortunately, an entirely pleasant surprise. For me, it's about the gossamer interplay between the vetiver,...
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    156150

    Frederic Malle - French Lover
  34. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Asphalt uses mostly pitch (in addition to petroleum distillates), which is the heaviest coal distillate. Coal tar creosote is made from heavy oils that are still lighter than pitch. Some of those...
  35. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    It was, but in the end I was neither put off nor entranced. I seem to have the middle ground practically to myself.
  36. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    What, this li’l ol’ thing?

    156106

    Monsieur Lanvin
  37. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    And nobody else knows what the hell we're talking about.
  38. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    It's 3 hours earlier here, and I run 3 hours later than everyone else, so you're in plenty of time. I'll pick one and post shortly.
  39. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    Blue? I thought it was Rose Velvet.



    Weep not. If I don't come around, my loss might be your gain.
  40. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Happy birthday, Bavard! Want to pick my SOTE?
  41. Replies
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    Re: help on flower from a man.

    Vintage Mary Chess soliflores tend to be fairly inexpensive on eBay, and they are amongst the most naturalistic floral scents—meaning, closest to a flower shop or garden—I've tried. They have a...
  42. Replies
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    Re: Your Basenotes Milestones

    I'm helping as much as I can.
  43. Re: GUERLAIN BOIS MYSTノRIEUX vs. SONGE D'UN BOIS D'ノTノ

    I have a sample of Songe now and one of Bois on the way, so I'll do a side-by-side once the opportunity presents.
  44. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    Certainly, Mrs. Longworth!

    I had expected to love this, but while I do like it, I'm finding it a tad opaque—like chewing a cigar rather than smelling one. But I expect this will linger a good long...
  45. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    156085

    Masque - Montecristo
  46. Replies
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    Re: Your Basenotes Milestones

    After adding recently acquired samples to my list, I added that number to bottles to see how many frags I’ve catalogued overall. Answer: 999. As some aren’t in the database, I can safely say I have...
  47. Re: Vintage Chanel Perfumes & Colognes Discussion Thread

    +1,000. If I'm going to be buried with bottles—champagne or perfume—they should be empty.
  48. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Beats me with a five iron. That's about as meaningful as the "special ingredients" (unlike the mundane ingredients in other colognes). But the phrase did inspire me to quote it for yuks.
  49. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    156043

    Lenth駻ic - Iceberg Cologne

    Launched in the US in 1941. Supposedly launched in Europe c.1930, but I couldn't find any hard evidence for that. Last seen advertised in 1961, the...
  50. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    156034

    Les Liquides Imaginaires - Eau Del: Sancti—L'Eau B駭ite

    Subtle and lovely, calming and balanced. I have a busy day so hard to wrap my head around it now, but I could see coming back to...
  51. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    That is my favorite neologism of the month.
  52. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    155932

    Clive Christian - 1872 Twist Leather (ltd. ed./discontinued)
  53. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    I know this about you. I remain cautiously optimistic that, at some distant date when I finally try it, I'll feel the same.

    Meanwhile, as Lampblack dies down, I'm thinking Bruno could have dialed...
  54. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    155905

    Bruno Fazzolari - Lampblack

    Fazzolari said he was after "transparent, colorful darkness," and to my nose he succeeded admirably. The translucent black inky vetiver here is vastly more...
  55. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Perhaps back when it was named. I think it’s not for me, but I’ll see if it works on the good Dr.
  56. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    155856

    Guy Laroche - J’ai Os EDT
  57. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    155832

    LM Parfums - Black Oud

    This is—nice. Which is a bit underwhelming for something with as stark and ominous a name as "Black Oud." It's a pleasant wear, warm, animalic but in a clean...
  58. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Pretty sure you mean Eau de Patou.
  59. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    It really is good, but at close to $900 for 240ml, I’ll pass on a FB. Bet I’ll use up that sample, though. I have to try Sycomore EDT again—I’ve got a sample somewhere around here.
  60. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    I guess Catherine de’ Medici was the Ariana Grande of the 16th century.
  61. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    lol!

    155802
  62. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Considering how super informative you’ve been to me and others about so many things, any chance I have to reciprocate even a little is a blessing.
  63. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SMN puts a sticker on the back of the bottle near the bottom with the name of the fragrance. If that comes off—as it frequently does with older bottles—well, good luck. Hopefully, whoever’s selling...
  64. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    155786

    Santa Maria Novella - Acqua di Santa Maria Novella (1533)

    As audacious claims for veneration in the world of perfumery go, SMN probably has them all beat. SMN dates itself to...
  65. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    155770

    Christian Dior - V騁iver

    Vintage by dint of discontinuation.

    Clean and grassy, minimalist but with noteworthy twists of grapefruit to brighten the opening and coffee to <ahem> ground...
  66. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    155725

    Jovoy - L’Art de la Guerre

    This is a pleasant surprise. The apple and rhubarb notes add some tartness up front while steering clear of fruity territory, while the heart and base notes...
  67. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    I do indeed have Embrujo de Sevilla, a recent acquisition, and one I’d been stalking based on its reputation. Like Dana Emir, it’s a relatively obscure scent by Jean Carles that works great as a...
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    Here’s one Dr. T and I actually stayed in:
    155693
  69. Replies
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    It is indeed. There are many alternatives to Ambroxan.
  70. Replies
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    SOTE:

    155689

    Geo. F. Trumper - Astor Cologne


    155688

    Hever Castle as restored by William Waldorf Astor, feat. the Astor Wing (right)
  71. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    155686

    Geo. F. Trumper - Astor Cologne

    Marvelous.
  72. Replies
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    Sticky: Re: Synchronized Fridays 2021

    “This is about making a perfume like a Loire castle, a perfume that could rise higher than the castle of Blois, higher than the terrace where the last Valois watched the sun set in its glory. And...
  73. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    That’s a nice collection. Early on, I bought a similar group. If you like the others, Tuscany is unlikely to disappoint you.
  74. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    155610

    Le Labo - Tabac 28

    I've gone back and forth on this, so the widely divergent opinions don't surprise me. Basically, there's a real nice cigar note here, but I wish it didn't have to...
  75. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    155588

    Penhaligon’s - English Fern

    I spent the day in MDCI Invasion Barbare, so I’m going from foug鑽e to foug鑽e. IB was fine—and I’m very grateful to the kind person who sent it!—but...
  76. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    155571

    MDCI - Invasion Barbare

    Brut for junior executives. Good of its ilk, but doesn't warrant the ticket price for the hype train.
  77. Replies
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    Re: oakmoss sightings? List them here, please!

    It’s listed on Chanel’s website. I wouldn’t know otherwise: I’ve only worn the EDT once from a sample vial, and that was enough for me. (It wasn’t bad; just not for me.)
  78. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTN:

    155548

    Antonio Puig - Sybaris

    The most distinctive thing about this, apart from the sci-fi/Spartan warrior helmet and epaulets, is the canned mandarin slices opening, which...
  79. Replies
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    Re: Rose Chypres幽istory Lesson, please!

    They might have some reconstructed ones at the Osmotheque. I think Coty had enormous commercial success with "Chypre" as a product name, establishing his as the ur-chypre for his contemporaries and...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Rose Chypres幽istory Lesson, please!

    I have an entry-level membership at Newspapers.com for work-related research, and it comes in handy for hobby-related research as well.
  81. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Superb choice.
  82. Re: What is your favourite "female" branded fragrance?

    If we're talking about feminine fragrances as worn by a woman, most of my wife's collection works well for me. (How fortunate to be so smell-compatible!) Our mutual favorites include Mitsouko, Opium,...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Rose Chypres幽istory Lesson, please!

    155514

    This is a newspaper ad from November 15 1781 that refers to a chypre-scented powder, the earliest print reference to chypre as a fragrance I could find, though I'm sure there are earlier...
  84. Re: What is your favourite "female" branded fragrance?

    Honestly, too many to single out one. The aforementioned Piguet Bandit, Chanel Cuir de Russie, and Guerlain Vol de Nuit are certainly contenders. Lenth駻ic タ Bientot, Dana Emir, Gr鑚 Cabochard,...
  85. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    155499

    Unum - LAVS

    Dark, smoky incense concocted from resins and spices over moss and rosewood. Everyone pegs it as frankincense, despite frankincense/olibanum being absent from Unum’s...
  86. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Balenciaga pour Homme is an excellent choice. I considered nabbing that bottle as a backup, but realistically I have all I need, so I'm glad it found a more loving home.
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    Re: oakmoss sightings? List them here, please!

    Yes, anyone can claim oakmoss as a note, but I think most of us are talking about it appearing on the ingredients list, which you can’t legally do if it isn’t actually in there.

    Then again, there...
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    Re: Today I finished - Perfumes used up in 2021

    Oh, yes. There’s a range of vanillas out there—some more “vanilla” than others. It may take some exploring to find which one(s) you like.
  89. Replies
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    Re: oakmoss sightings? List them here, please!

    No, if you look at the ingredients list for BdC EdT and EdP, oak moss is listed. Not so for the parfum.
  90. Replies
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    Re: Rose Chypres幽istory Lesson, please!

    I think I only found ads with text, but I値l check tomorrow.
  91. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    Hey, now, I coulda done this without a pic and nobody would've been the wiser.

    I may be greedy, but I'm not stupid. :wink:
  92. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    Heh! No, my problem (this time) isn't that I don't know who sent these: I know the source of each with absolute certainty. It's just that I asked one friend when I forgot I already had a sample on...
  93. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    155455

    Amouage - Epic Man x 2

    On a few occasions, I’ve lost track of whom I’ve asked for a sample of what. This is one of those occasions. So here I am with two Epic Man samples from two kind...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    Don’t pay too much for it. I spent about $30US for a 120ml bottle. I’m not touting Old Spice Leather as singular; it’s just one of many perfectly good mass-market fragrances from before the era of...
  95. Replies
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    Re: D&G Light Blue Forever EDP - Amazing

    I can't tell you how many times I heard about how grapefruit is a CYP inhibitor while Dr. T. was studying.
  96. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    SOTE:

    155426

    Shulton - Old Spice Leather Cologne

    I started the day with Roja Dove Enigma pour Homme, courtesy of a generous BN trading partner. Depending on your perspective, I’ve either...
  97. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    Well, these are the only two I have at the moment. I have a reasonably high tolerance for opulence, depending on how one defines it. I just don’t want to smell like a deli dessert tray (though I love...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Sample of the Day - June 2021

    Where was I before I so rudely interrupted myself? Oh, right…

    SOTD: Roja Dove - Enigma pour Homme. Nothing much to add to the BN reviews. It leans too gourmand for my tastes. All that stuff about...
  99. Replies
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    Re: Vintage fragrance I bought today

    155376

    Lenth駻ic - Iceberg (1930 according to some sources, but advertised as new in 1941)
  100. Replies
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    Re: Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD)

    155356

    Guerlain - Li

    Milking the Friday Guerlain sync.
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000