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  1. Replies
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    Re: Osmotheque visit - suggestions?

    I don’t know how they are reopening, but they have a calendar of smelling sessions. I don’t know if they send smelling strips.
  2. Replies
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    Re: Best ROSE themed fragrance for men/uni

    Welcome!

    Portrait of a lady, despite the name, is quite masculine in structure. Very powerful too.
    At a somewhat lower price point, Parfums de Rosine Twill rose (vegetal, musky).

    cacio
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    Re: Off-the-radar spicy roses

    Parfums de Rosine Rose d'homme and Twill rose.
    cacio
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    Re: Rose Chypres—History Lesson, please!

    Thanks for the references-going further back in time...
    I had forgotten that "cipria" in Italian means face powder.
  5. Re: Do You Agree That You Are Not a True Fraghead if You Are Not Into Niche?

    Given the current status of mainstream perfumery, I'd say to be called fraghead one should also venture into niche a bit, though it doesn't have to be mostly niche. Alternatively, no niche but...
  6. Re: What is your favourite "female" branded fragrance?

    Paco Rabanne Calandre.

    Btw, was Vol de nuit originally marketed to women only? It's about aviation after all...

    cacio
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    Re: Rose Chypres—History Lesson, please!

    As Pstoller was saying, Cyprus had been associated with perfumery for a long time, possibly since antiquity. For instance, in the middle age there were "oiselet de Chypre" (or little birds from...
  8. Re: Classics must for classic lovers collectors ( curent in production, available in markets )

    So many... Keeping it to 5:
    Caron pour un homme
    Chanel Egoiste
    Parfums de Nicolai New York Intense
    Guerlain Derby
    Amouage Gold man
  9. Replies
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    Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Y: as others were saying. An old-style citrus, herbal, a bit sharp, and dry. Probably what went for fresh sporty back then.
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    Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    The reference to Hershey chocolate, as well as Turin's remark about bleakness, are not intended to be objections-to the contrary. They are used to great effect.

    cacio
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    Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    I recall a dusty, almost Hershey-chocolate drydown that's quite somber and makes it a rather interesting one. (As a European, Hershey chocolate tastes strange to me...)

    cacio
  12. Re: Article: 7 Forgotten Scents That Still Smell Great

    Agree that mostly they've remained close enough. The Helmut lang of course costs a lot more now, but the others are still cheap.

    cacio
  13. Re: BEST Lavender (Unisex) Fragrance Recommendations ... ?

    Seconding Caron pour un homme, lavender and vanilla in perfect balance. I also have a very soft spot for Chanel Jersey (a strange sweet lavender), but I seem to be the minority here.
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    Re: best version of chanel n 19 on a man?

    I agree with the others that the edp will come off as more floral and "perfumey", and the edt cleaner and fresher, so perhaps the edt is best for your purposes. Neither is chypre anymore, the...
  15. Thread: Unknown perfume?

    by cacio
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    Re: Unknown perfume?

    Interesting, I had never seen such a Santa Maria Novella bottle. they don't do them like this anymore. That's a lovely bottle and you can still use it for other perfume or the like.
  16. Thread: Unknown perfume?

    by cacio
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    Re: Unknown perfume?

    Welcome!

    I have not seen this bottle before, but lovetribe is right that the letters almost seem to suggest that. No other indication on the bottom of the box/bottle?

    cacio
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    Re: best marine niche?

    Oud minerale gives me the impression of a damp cave or the like rather than a beach. In that style, I prefer the even starker Histoires de Parfums Petroleum (which is based on the same idea, oud...
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    Re: Clean, fresh barber sop/shaving foam vibe?

    Vintage Kouros as fresh and clean is a unique take on this! People complain that the current version is too fresh and clean relative to vintage, so who knows, perhaps it will click on you. Still, I...
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    Re: Which one between those two ? Ddssfr

    Welcome!

    I would also vote for Narciso, for the reasons you say. Chance eau tendre is a bit too teenager-like.

    Regarding longevity, remember that one's nose often gets accustomed to a smell so...
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    Re: Rose Chypres—History Lesson, please!

    Thanks for the discussion! I think you're making a good point on the aromachemicals. What characterizes rose chypres is really this punch, a rose that stands out among the powerful patch and moss,...
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    Re: best marine niche?

    I'm no fan of marines, but the one I admire (though do not wear) is Lys Mediterranee.
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    Re: Gourmand Pancakes

    Lutens Jeux de peau is one of my favorite gourmands. It has been described as buttered toast with maple syrup. Not exactly pancakes, but the maple syrup is there. (Maple syrup being immortelle in...
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    Re: Eau Sauvage... minus the powder?

    The Mugler has a soapy vetiver in the base, so presumably that's not your offending powder. The Acqua di Parma citruses are also very soapy in the base.

    As for Eau d'Issey, was it for men or for...
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    Re: Rose Chypres—History Lesson, please!

    Pstoller

    would La Rose Jacqueminot or Quelque fleurs be classified as chypre in the technical sense of having a particular accord of oakmoss-labdanum-bergamot base? Presumably not, though they may...
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    Re: Eau Sauvage... minus the powder?

    I don't get powder from Eau Sauvage, but powdery is used by different people to mean different things. As others were saying, it could be some woody material or vetiver. Or some musk, which you...
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    Re: Rose Chypres—History Lesson, please!

    Never thought about this, but you are right, I cannot really think about a soliflore rose chypre before then. There were aldehydic floral chypres at least since the 20s (Crepe de Chine comes to...
  27. Re: Latest Parfums de Nicolai - Bois Belize Intense!

    I don't really have any association for Belize-so who knows, perhaps it's the flowers of said land.
  28. Re: Latest Parfums de Nicolai - Bois Belize Intense!

    Resurrecting this because I finally got to smell this. It's as others were saying, white floral tea plus light wood. I probably perceive it as more floral than others. The name may suggest a big...
  29. Re: My next Vetiver fragrance...Terre D'Hermes Eau Intense Vetiver or Elie Saab Essence No.6 Vetiver

    As a vetiver, I would also vote for the Elie Saab. I enjoy the TdH as well, but it's less vetiver centered, more like a woody thing, as redneck was saying.

    cacio
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    Re: lys mediterranee malle

    Im a bit puzzled that you don't find these Malles long lasting, but we all react differently.
    To me, Lys Med comes off as aquatic + lily. LIke the idea and and am almost tempted, but I have a strong...
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    Re: Anyone have success with dark spot correctors?

    No direct knowledge, but I've been following some youtube videos of dermatologist Dr Dre. She claims the usual recommended molecules are hydroquinone (sadly becoming prescription only in the US) and...
  32. Thread: Drop d'Issey

    by cacio
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    Re: Drop d'Issey

    Good point on copyright. But I wonder what is required. Flat round bottle is there-but the spraying mechanism and the color are different.
    The brand seems to have always paid attention to bottle...
  33. Thread: Drop d'Issey

    by cacio
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    Re: Drop d'Issey

    The similarity is there. But I doubt there's any protection on bottle shapes.

    Anyway, I finally tried this in Italy. It is indeed nice. Clean and light floral, but not sharp, a touch of cream and...
  34. Re: Modern Aramis JHL vs modern Cinnabar & modern Opium

    Starace

    thank-you for the informative comparison. And good to know the oil works well as a perfume. I have never used it as leave on perfume, but only as a bath product.

    cacio
  35. Re: Pls help identify this perfume display in a dept.Store

    The color did remind me of Estee Lauders. It wouldn't be strange to have a full counter of Estee Lauders, but as others have noticed, there's nothing specific, and there are very many functional...
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    Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Lancetti. Period and country are those of my teenage years-something reminded me of that old style. I don't think I ever wore that, but that style must have been around. Oldish italian perfumes...
  37. Re: Chanel 5 EdT is too fleeting. Should I layer it with the lotion/cream, or get a higher concentra

    I wouldn't use the perfumed body lotions to try to achieve extra persistence. I have not smelled the recent ones, but in general the Chanel functional products smell very good and are a nice splurge,...
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    Re: Could you please rank these classic fragrances?

    For me, Adp Colonia and Monsieur de Givency ahead of the others.

    cacio
  39. Thread: Carnal flower

    by cacio
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    Re: Carnal flower

    Tuberose is quite recongnizable in most perfumes so if you are ok with the other perfumes you mention, you will be ok with this as well.
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    Re: A question about Le labo oud 27

    I have not tried the oil. Le Labo is usually pretty consistent across all products-ie meaning that all the range does smell like the perfume. But I don't know how long lasting the oil is.

    I am...
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    Re: Platinum Egoists vs Egoiste

    In the US, Egoiste and Antaeus are only sold at upmarket dept stores (like Nordstrom and the like). Platinum Egoiste is sold more broadly (eg including Macys and the like). But I have not looked at...
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    Re: Forgot how much I love Tribute Attar!

    I love it too. I think the earliest one (white) was smokier, hence even more interesting. But I'm very happy of my red box.
    cacio
  43. Re: "Oriental" fragrances: NY Times magazine article

    As a non native speaker, I probably don't appreciate the full extent of the typo. but whatever it means, spookle does indeed sound funny.

    cacio
  44. Re: "Oriental" fragrances: NY Times magazine article

    Grayspookle

    thanks for digging out the exact quote. Indeed, the original says something different. I must say the translation doesn't sound as precise. I wonder whether the original french had...
  45. Re: "Oriental" fragrances: NY Times magazine article

    Very interesting read, and I'd say quite correct and to the point. This is unusual for a newspaper, since newspapers and magazines tend to be very uninformed about perfumes. And we had a discussion...
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    Re: What is your threshold for making a purchase

    I often would buy 7, as well as 6. 8 however perhaps less so.
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    Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample C: old style coniferous, green-woody, chypre. Quite dry and foresty. A bit rough around the edges perhaps, but I like this style.
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    Re: Latest Dior Prive - Eden-Roc!

    I smelled this at saks. On paper only when back at home. That way it comes off as a dreaded (by me) sporty aquatic, like many other aquatic masculines, but swampier. But this seems different than...
  49. Re: Which Hermes masculines should one buy ahead of H24?

    I have not yet smelled h24, but my favorite is Le Galop, a ripe fruit leather.
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    Re: A second round of blind testing...

    incense and heliotrope and others:
    regarding sample B, the leather to me is more of the musky-floral-sweet variety, so prunol likely. But it's very fast.

    Regarding cashmeran, I think this is one...
  51. Thread: Drop d'Issey

    by cacio
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    Re: Drop d'Issey

    Thanks, sounds interesting. And not particularly aquatic.

    I have been at Macy’s and a few Sephora’s and I have not seen any issue miyake perfume... does it say anything about the brand...
  52. Re: Latest Armani Prive Releases - Jasmin Kusamono, Rose Milano, Gardenia Antigua & The Yulong!

    Resurrecting this because I finally saw them at saks nyc. Not knowing them, I decided to spray on paper jasmine kusamono. A potent swampy aquatic. I strongly dislike aquatics so this is not for me....
  53. Thread: Drop d'Issey

    by cacio
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    Re: Drop d'Issey

    Thanks!
    I would assume too that it is marketed to women (with lilac and rose...). Though the bottle is quite unisex.
  54. Thread: Drop d'Issey

    by cacio
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    Drop d'Issey

    Just received the ad for a new Issey Miyake, called Drop d'Issey

    https://us-store.isseymiyake.com/collections/parfums/products/a-drop-d-issey-eau-de-parfum-1

    Nice circular flat bottle. The...
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    Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample B: the opening is great, complex, almost leathery, almond, and many other things. But quickly it tones down and turns into a simpler fresh floral with what could be cashmeran.

    cacio
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    Re: Your top 5 "must haves"

    Caron pour un homme (lavender)
    a vetiver (Guerlain, niche)
    Guerlain Derby (classic citrus-leather)
    Chanel Egoiste (warm sandalwoody)
    YSL Kouros (powerhouse)
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    Re: What are your favorite high end houses?

    What is the price point you are thinking for high end? I assume it's more than regular niche.

    I enjoy JAR, which back then was considered extravagant, but now it's by no means unique in the...
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    Re: Best reasonably priced leather fragrance?

    Estee Lauder Azuree is not too expensive, though it's not a straightforward leather in the way that colonia leather or Tuscan leather are.

    Are you only looking at perfumes or also at room sprays?...
  59. Re: Chanel having a great run with Olivier Polge ....

    I find most of these nice and well built classic, but often lacking that little thing that make them stellar. The exception for me is Misia-perhaps exactly because it is deliciously retro.

    I too...
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    Re: My first goodyear welted dress shoes

    I had never seen this Di Bianco brand. Looks like they are worth checking.
    cacio
  61. Re: what is the specific problem with keeping your fragrance in bathroom?

    Under those conditions there's no problem in keeping the perfume in the bathroom. Plus, it's really about very long term preservation (ie decades). If one uses the perfum within a few years, there's...
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    Re: Shiseido To Cancel Dolce and Gabbana Contract

    Interesting info. I wonder if this has anything to do with the supposed fall of grace of DG from the Chinese market.
    cacio
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    Re: My first goodyear welted dress shoes

    Very nice classic Oxfords.

    I like Alden. A bit thicker and very sturdy. I am also thinking of buying some European Oxfords, but haven't decided which brand yet.

    I have found this video quite...
  64. Thread: Rien

    by cacio
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    Re: Rien

    Love it too. Those who were used to, say, Aramis and Kouros would certainly find a family resemblance.

    cacio
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    Re: Frederic Malle vs......

    FM Portrait of a lady > Lyric Man Amouage: bigger, stronger, bolder. Lyric is nice too, just not as complex
    Mousse Iluminee Rouge > FM French Lover: there's a sharp note in FL I am oversensitive...
  66. Re: Fall/winter female fragrance recommendations

    Neither floral nor citric-one category could be orientals. Things like Shalimar, Chanel Coco, YSL Opium.

    cacio
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    Re: Body & bath products found at TJ Maxx

    Bad in the sense of not good quality or bad in the sense of spoiled?

    I never buy creams or other perishables at these discounters, because the risk of spoilage. But alcohol based perfumes or soaps...
  68. Re: flying in USA with lots of perfume - checked bags - how much can you take?

    Mudassir

    strange, the limit seems to be 100ml, not 3 oz
    https://www.tsa.gov/travel/security-screening/liquids-rule

    cacio
  69. Re: flying in USA with lots of perfume - checked bags - how much can you take?

    Agree with the others. I've never carried so many, but I have had no problems with 5-10 perfumes in checked baggage. You can bring some in your carry on as well, as long as they are 100 ml or less....
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    Re: Nose blindness for certain fragrances

    It can be a combination of different factors. Some perfumes have less long lasting materials, and each of us is slightly anosmic to certain materials. Musks in particular can be challenging-each of...
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    Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Finally tested sample A.

    Fresh and zingy in the opening, bright citrus and aromatics. It becomes quieter soon after, but it remains fairly dry and fresh, if faint. All in all, quite pleasant.
    ...
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    Re: When you need the BIG bottle

    The largest bottles I got were 1 liter of cologne sologne (quite cheap) and 400 ml of Chanel Eau de cologne. But these are traditional eau de cologne, so they don't really count.

    For the Chanel...
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    Re: doubts about fougere.

    I find it different enough from those you've mentioned. Still, I also find it overpriced, even at the discounted price.
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    Re: kouros cologne sport or 3 instead of 1?

    I also vote for the Kouros. No point in getting cheap but less good flankers.

    cacio
  75. Re: Recommandations of special fragrances for a SPECIAL day

    Yes, Silver has been called slightly different names, but it is this one:
    https://www.amouage.com/silver-man.html

    The original used to be glorious and radiant. When I resmelled a few years ago it...
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    Re: Teetotaler wearing prominent alcohol notes?

    I don't think that there is anything strange in liking the smell but not the active substance (alcohol, nicotine). After all, the smell of liquors and tobacco owes to other aromachemicals, not...
  77. Re: Recommandations of special fragrances for a SPECIAL day

    Congrats!

    Amouage tends to do big/celebratory perfumes well. I second Lyric man: relatively big, but not heavy and with fresh notes. Another "fresher" Amouage is Silver, though I do not know the...
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    Re: Two new Tom Fords! Bitter Peach & Tubéreuse Nue

    I saw these at Sephora and sprayed on a paperstrip. On paper, Tubereuse nue had an interesting chemical note, like paint or similar, which was fun. But I need to see whether that happens on skin as...
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    Re: Oliver & Co rebranding as Avant-Garden Labs

    Got the email too. Too bad. Looking forward to cassie (which I bought).
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    Re: Never ending expensive issue...help please

    Welcome!

    That is very strange. If the skin doesn't work, try fabric (whether the tshirt, handkerchief or the like). Fabric keeps a perfume for a long time, though it doesn't project as much. Also...
  81. Re: Wearing a budget-friendly scent vs. smelling above your financial means

    Indeed, it is possible to make good perfumes for relatively low prices. Unfortunately, there isn't much I can think of in the market. There is much more choice in more expensive niche, unfortunately....
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    Re: Rose Garden Scents

    I concur with Tea Rose for a photorealistic effect (and quite cheap as well). Kurkdjian's a la rose is a very fresh rose, with a touch of green as well (but just a touch). Diptyque L'ombre dans l'eau...
  83. Re: Green, Coniferous, and Forest - please critique my wish list

    Nice list.

    Not a huge fan of Knize Forest-I think the classic Knize Ten is the go to for the brand. In french lover there is something that I find grating and sharp, but I must be oversensitive to...
  84. Re: Is sniffing glue so bad? Comme des Garçons Eau de Parfum (2011)

    I enjoyed it as well. Quirky and interesting but wearable. One of my favorite CDG.

    cacio
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    Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Via zoom:

    Lubin, inventor of perfumes, after 200 years. Tuesday april 27 630pm (Gilles Thevenin)

    Francois Coty, the father of modern perfumery. Tuesday may 4 630 pm

    From Tabac blond to...
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    Re: What's your favourite shower gel?

    perfumingandstuff

    I had missed your message, sorry. The Priya soap I had bought had a different wrapping (more colorful etc). Also I think it was with a y, not a j. Of course no idea if it's...
  87. Thread: Kouros Clone

    by cacio
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    Re: Kouros Clone

    Agree. It has the same clean/dirty mix. It has the dirty honey and the sage. It probably lacks the animalics and some of the fougere aspect of vintage Kouros. But I'm happy with it.

    Since I was...
  88. Thread: Kouros Clone

    by cacio
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    Re: Kouros Clone

    Thanks for the heads up! Another cheapie to try.

    I finally got the Milton Lloyd man silver. It's not Kouros, but it has some of its part, and for <$10, it's a steal.

    cacio
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    Re: Long time no sniff

    Welcome back!

    I think Auphorie and The Zoo are interesting newer brands worth exploring. And where did you stop with Etat Libre d'Orange?

    cacio
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    Re: Recognize this bottle?

    Welcome!

    Can you explain the dimension of the bottle and whether there is any other sign/wording on it? Also, it's not clear from the message, was it supposed to be for men or for women?

    Marco
  91. Re: Leather and grass/green or pear/vanilla fragrances?

    Leather and galbanum-the reference is Bandit. Not quite grass, but green nonetheless.

    I am probably the only person who gets pear from Chanel Jersey (it's actually lavender and vanilla, but go...
  92. Re: Is It Really Bad to Wear Winter Fragrances During Hot Weather?

    Nothing wrong, it's whatever one likes. It's probably true that most people prefer fresher perfumes in the summer, and viceversa, but we all have different tastes and there's no way to know what one...
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    Re: Yet another recommendation thread

    Welcome!

    One thing that came to mind is CDG2 man. Fresh vetiver, but with a touch of incense, so with a contemporary twist. Not too hard to find, but still niche so probably not found everywhere....
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    Re: Best MFK for Spring/Summer Months

    Seconding Aqua universalis for warm weather. Simple but very good.

    I didn't like L'Homme a la rose either. But the pour femme version (A la rose, without l'homme), it's a very fresh rose (assuming...
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    Re: Beach Vacation - Blind Buy?

    Lush Dirty. Fresh, a touch minty,. but not aquatic. (I strongly dislike aquatics).

    cacio
  96. Re: Modern Aramis JHL vs modern Cinnabar & modern Opium

    As you probably know, JHL is a variation on Cinnabar, and they're from the same brand, so I would assume that if JHL is still good, so is Cinnabar, but I have not tried it myself recently. Current...
  97. Thread: Tom Ford Poll

    by cacio
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    Poll: Re: Tom Ford Poll

    My favorite from the brand is Sahara Noir, a very good frankincense, now discontinued.
    I only own two or three from the brand.

    cacio
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    Re: Looking for a masculine floral

    Some green florals would do. Insense is discontinued, but I think it can be found here and there.
    In niche, Lyric Man, some rose, a bit too masculine perhaps, but well made.
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    Re: Advice on next purchase please

    Welcome!

    I too was thinking about a vetiver like Guerlain Vetiver.

    cacio
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    Re: Arte tv programme about Sandalwood.

    Thanks! As usual, one wonders how close the two are.
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000