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  1. Replies
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    Re: You must choose: one house and one perfumer

    For perfumers, I'd say Germaine Cellier-except that most of her stuff has been reformulated, so it probably doesn't count.

    For houses, I tend to like a lot of what Etat Libre d'Orange does.
    ...
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    Re: Amouage Gold Man eBay purchase

    Welcome!

    Like most classic Amouages, I think that Gold man has been lightened up a bit over time from its original incarnation. Less animalics, less jasmine. Still, stuff that I have smelled in...
  3. Re: Recommendation next purchase ( Yatagan, Opium, The Dreamer, Ungaro III, LIDGE )

    My favorite, by far, is Yatagan. More interesting and unique.

    Ungaro III or Ungaro II (I like II a lot-I don't remember III, is that the rosy one?)

    cacio
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    Re: Best dark-gotic etat libre.

    I like Archives 69 a lot. It has a very interesting rotten fruit note, almost unpleasant but very interesting. In that sense, I don't find it dark either, but it's certainly challenging and...
  5. Re: What technically/legally counts as a reformulation?

    Somebody should chime in here-but I suspect that batch codes are exactly that-each batch has a different code, even if the formula was the same as a previous batch. this is so because batches are...
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    Re: dark-gothic battle

    I wouldn't define Yatagan as gothic either. The beginning is actually very green and vegetal. Then it turns into a woody animalic thing (because of castoreum)-but again I wouldn't call it very dark....
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    Re: Best dark-gotic etat libre.

    I like the brand a lot too. I'd say Rien incense intense (or the regular Rien) are the darkest. Among the others, I'd say Attaquer le soleil, which has incense and cistus (a dark amber)-perhaps not...
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    Re: Hermès Eau d’Orange Verte

    Welcome!

    How much does O de Lancome cost? That's another nice, fresh citrus.
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    Re: Violet a la Choward’s Violet Mints

    I love Choward's too. A traditional violet was Violetta di Parma by Borsari.
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    Re: Musings on 'classics,' and niche vs designer...

    I agree with many of your points. Contemporary mainstream is often meh, and the only way to find new exciting stuff is to search in expensive niche perfumery. And of course the classics aren't the...
  11. Thread: Montale

    by cacio
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    Re: Montale

    Welcome!

    I like many of them and I think they have a very good quality/price ratio (for niche). they are obviously synthetic, but that's true of pretty much every house.

    cacio
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    Re: Summer range needs expanding...

    It seems you have already a good selection of freshies.

    I was going to say a vetiver but it seems you have one already. I think Lush has stores in Australia. Lush Dirty is also a great fresh...
  13. Re: Fresh and Clean fragrances ( Between Guerlain Colognes and GreenFresh Mugler cologne,Encre N.Spo

    All those you mention are good choices. Eau de Guerlain is probably my favorite, but the Mugler is also great.
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    Re: Does anything from this list stand out?

    Wonderful list. Perhaps the only one I don't like is Jardins de bagatelle.
  15. Thread: Poudre de Riz

    by cacio
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    Re: Poudre de Riz

    I was looking at the description of rice powder about the Guillaume one (which I did not know):
    rice powder accord (caramelic, burnt toast and maple notes).

    The description is immortelle, but...
  16. Thread: Poudre de Riz

    by cacio
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    Re: Poudre de Riz

    Thanks for the description. It makes me curious...
    cacio
  17. Re: Daughter's First Fragrance and one for my Mother too

    The original Private collection is still around. The white moss version was lighter, less green, but not miles away. Perhaps it will do. The Aerin line in the Estee Lauder range goes further in the...
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    Re: Wet, Cold, Pacific Rainforest for Women?

    Welcome!

    In expensive niche perfumery, Ormonde woman comes to mind-the inspiration was exactly that. In mainstream, cannot think about anything specific-conifers are usually more in masculine...
  19. Thread: Poudre de Riz

    by cacio
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    Re: Poudre de Riz

    I haven't heard of that brand. What does the accord smells like? A powdery accord has something to do with heliotropin and coumarin, ie something vaguely powdery and sweetish. But rice powder was...
  20. Thread: Cuir de....

    by cacio
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    Re: Cuir de....

    Regarding representing Russian-an interesting thing is that the perfumer of Cuir de Russie (and of No 5), Ernest Beaux, was of French origin, but born in Russia, where he worked until WW I and the...
  21. Re: Can't stop thinking about this elusive, woody vetiver fragrance

    Encre Noire has actually more Iso-E than vetiver, and Iso-E is more common than vetiver in mainstream perfumery, so perhaps that's what you were picking up. Vetiver smells fresh and green, while...
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    Re: Regular selection VS exclusive selection.

    Le Labo for instance (not that the "regular" are standard price, of course). I prefer the regular line to the city exclusives. And I agree with Tom Ford.

    cacio
  23. Thread: Cuir de....

    by cacio
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    Re: Cuir de....

    Andy

    yep, you nailed the town. The train between Florence and my parents' town goes through Santa Croce sull'Arno and the wafts of "tuscan leather" were notorious. I have not noticed them in...
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    Re: Favourite mens or unisex floral fragrances...

    Paco Rabanne Metal: green (discontinued but easy to find on ebay).
    Amouage Gold man

    cacio
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    Re: suggest me very strong men fragrance

    Surprised by your perceived lack of power in Interlude.
    Another very powerful one is Rien Incense Intense.
  26. Thread: Cuir de....

    by cacio
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    Re: Cuir de....

    As you point out, the names have a lot to do with marketing. Russian it's the birch tar, which was used in russia to tan leathers. But I agree with you that the de Russie of Chanel (et al) fame is...
  27. Thread: eau sauvage

    by cacio
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    Re: eau sauvage

    Are you looking in niche perfumery as well? I think there are some good citruses in there, from New York Intense (sweetish, a bit warm) to Azemour les orangers (a bit greenish).

    cacio
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    Re: Une Fleur de Cassie 2020

    I smelled the tester a month ago at a newish NYC store. I don't know which version the tester was, but I assume recent. I liked it. Floral, powdery, and somewhat dirtyish. It is still in my to-buy...
  29. Re: A problem with understanding the composition of a fragrance

    Derby is another masculine Guerlain that's still quite good. There are many perfumes in niche as well that are very coherent. But it's very difficult to smell niche perfumes these days.
  30. Re: A problem with understanding the composition of a fragrance

    I don't mind things changing, even when moving to completely different styles. As long as it's done well.

    But perhaps the main issue is that in most current perfumes brands pay attention to the...
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    Re: Looking for specific musky fragrance

    These are niche perfumes so they're hard to smell in person.

    To my nose, the Kiehls musk smells dirty for 15 minutes, then I can smell next to nothing. Other people perceive it mostly as clean....
  32. Thread: eau sauvage

    by cacio
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    Re: eau sauvage

    As hednic was saying, the parfum is a good perfume on its own and performs well, but it is different than the original, which had an oakmoss base. The current Eau sauvage is a good citrus, but as...
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    Re: Looking for specific musky fragrance

    Examples of dirty musk in niche perfumery include Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan and Parfums d'empire Musc Tonkin. Quite dirty and musky, though it contains also other stuff, is Le Labo oud.
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    Re: Oliver & Co rebranding as Avant-Garden Labs

    I think they have a crowdfunding going on for some floral perfumes. I signed in for one.
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    Re: Mature and refined " SPORT " fragrances

    Concurring with the caron
  36. Re: Maison Kurkdjian Cologne pour le soir v Absolue pour le soir

    Same opinion as back then. The cologne is a soft amber, very pleasant and very safe for work. Antaeus and1740 are more challenging.
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    Re: Buy my wife first good perfume

    Amouage is an excellent brand. But I wonder if it’s too much as an intro to good perfumery. perhaps other brands have a lighter touch that might be a safer transition. Eghermes, whose style tends to...
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    Re: Dzing! possible reformulation since 2010?

    Sorry to hear about yet anotherreformulation. This one seemed to have escaped the infra onslaught. But perhaps not the corporate one.
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    Re: Chanel Misia For Men (or Alternative)?

    I think it’s well suited to a man, in a retro way. Makes one think of all young men who are now sporting a well groomed beard reminiscent of Victorian and Edwardian times.

    As for more masculine...
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    Re: Are the SAs gone due to covid?

    Same.the places I’ve seen have the usual. But I guess some people could have been fired.
  41. Thread: new 2 oud

    by cacio
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    Re: new 2 oud

    Indeed, ouds, especially western reconstructions, can smell very different. Western spray ouds are all reconstructions, they should really be considered as perfumes vaguely inspired by the smell of...
  42. Thread: new 2 oud

    by cacio
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    Re: new 2 oud

    Welcome!

    Others will comment on oud per se (I'm not a big expert in original ouds). But some of what you describe depends on the alcohol versus oil carrier. Alcohol evaporates fast, plus most...
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    Re: Need a lusciously beautiful fragrance

    Right now, perfumes for women tend to be quite sweet (or alternatively sharply clean). There is more choice in niche perfumery, which is more expensive, if one wants to go there.

    Amouage, for...
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    Re: Fragrance Allergies

    I haven't thankfully. But perfumes can be irritating to some, and natural materials, which are often complex, are more likely so. Irritations on skin are known and studied. I don't know about other...
  45. Re: The 130th Anniversary bottle of Jicky: very clever, Guerlain

    Beautiful. Still, they are putting more attention to the bottle than the content. It would have been better to have a "private" edition of the original recipe, with the coumarin, the musks, and real...
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    Re: TF Italian Cypress or Vert des Bois?

    I enjoy both. Italian cypress is more traditional style, woody coniferous and a bit aromatic. Vert de bois slightly incensy and streamlined. Hard to choose.
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    Re: Nicolai Vie De Chateau? Any good?

    I have the intense (current). I like it. It has a classic background (a bit chypre, ie slightly woody leathery), with citrus and fruits on top. Fruity but not cloying or particularly sweet.
  48. Re: Pick One Old School Masculine Fragrance As The Grail!

    As sold today (ie not what vintage versions were)?

    I'm debating between Caron pour un homme and Guerlain Derby. Perhaps Derby.

    cacio
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    Re: Seeking some similar alternatives for variety.

    Welcome!

    Any price range? The genres are fresh citrus and aromatic fougere. For citrus, a warmer one (good for evening as well) would be New York Intense. For fougeres, the resurrected Dior Jules....
  50. Re: Mugler Cologne - does anyone know the name/brand of the soap that inspired Thierry Mugler for th

    Interesting, didn't know about the stated soap connection. But then citrus notes plus white musk has been the stuff of soap for a long time.
  51. Thread: Nicolai

    by cacio
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    Re: Nicolai

    Interesting about the perceived sweetness of Patchouli intense. I do perceive fruits, but to my nose they are not cloying. As usual, different perceptions, another reason to try first.

    Re: New...
  52. Thread: Nicolai

    by cacio
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    Re: Nicolai

    I second patch intense. Sourish mossy patch. Not too dark or heavy. I enjoy others from the house. Odalisque is slightly floral and mossy. Vie de chateau is slightly fruity but not cloying. I also...
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    Re: Issey Miyake - Anything noteworthy??

    Le feu is quite interesting but sadly it is no longer.

    I don’t like alone, but there’s no denying that l’eau and Aqua di bio defined an era of perfumery.
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    Re: Musc Koublai Khan?

    MKK cleans up quite a bit as it goes.
    Musc Tonkin has some of the same effect on me.
  55. Thread: Winter niche

    by cacio
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    Re: Winter niche

    Good suggestions. I second Amouage Interlude. Amouages tend to be strong and sufficiently refined.
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    Re: Calling all vintage Caron experts!

    Regardless of pic, Champagne was the older name-it then became Royal Bain de Caron. So it means it's old enough to be good.
    cacio
  57. Re: New release 19-69 Miami blue! "Cocaine accord"?!

    Not sure what the smell might be. I heard of an old perfume called "Cocaina en flor", but no idea how it smelled.

    cacio
  58. Re: Recommendations for a great, non-sweet, winter fragrance ?

    Warm stuff often comes with sweetness (ambers, vanilla). You could check some dry leathers, like Lutens Cuir Mauresque, Knize Ten, Etat Libre d'Orange Rien, PIguet Bandit.
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    Re: Givenchy "La Collection Particulière"

    Thanks for the info. So the previous, rushed exclusive line didn't work, so now they're giving a new shot.
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    Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Plum japonais was inspired by a Lutens classic, Feminite de bois. Which would also work very well. Warm and woody, but with fruits.
  61. Re: Recommendations next purchase best 3 ( Amber Intense, Toy Boy, Nuit d'Issey Pulse of the Night

    My vote for Soul, a very good, dark woody perfume.
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    Re: Masculine Car Scents?

    Malle used to have $$$ car freshener-but the price seems overkill.

    A brand that is hard to find but that I like for room perfumes is parfums de Nicolai. They have (or used to) have little clay...
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    Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    I see you're including niche or expensive perfumes, and I think that in this genre (elegant gourmand) niche does much better than mainstream.

    Adding a couple of ideas:
    Chanel Bois des Isles:...
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    Re: Vintage Mitsouko evaporating

    Congrats on your purchases!

    Sometimes it happens. Evaporation is usually slow, so if you plan to use the perfume within, say, a couple of years, one should not worry too much. For longer term...
  65. Re: Which of these fall fragrances would you choose?

    My vote for A. Troisieme homme
  66. Re: Recdations next purchase ( Bottega Veneta, Fahrenheit,Le Male Essence, Leather Blend )

    For me, Fahrenheit and Bottega Veneta (regular) by far.

    cacio
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    Re: Guerlain Vs Caron and the Test of Time

    I think you summarized things well. One house has survived well, the other unfortunately it's victim of reformulations and decline in quality (on the female side).

    Hard to know exactly how they...
  68. Thread: Evening scent?

    by cacio
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    Re: Evening scent?

    For sweetness, I was thinking about Egoiste too-though that is more than a little sweet (but it's not gourmand either). Bleu doesn't register as sweet to me.
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    Re: Special for Gentlemen by Le Galion

    Wowo, what an endorsement... I definitely need to smell it again then! I enjoyed others of the house.
    cacio
  70. Re: Jicky - how many sprays for a full wearing out to work, etc.? Hmm

    Good you are enjoying it! A parfum is usually at least twice the concentration of an edt/edp, so that's why it usually comes in a dab bottle (only the testers come in spray format).

    cacio
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    Re: Macy's Estee Lauder Sale + 12% TopCashBack

    The first part seems the standard EL marketing strategy. EL never discounts products, but at least twice a year, EL does offers like free kit with purchase > $X, or (less interesting for my tastes)...
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    Re: Vetiver mt rushmore

    I like vetivers when they are fresh, energizing, and green. So my top one would be Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire (freshest and zingiest). Up there also Dior vetiver (also fresh but with citrus and...
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    Re: Best designer Aromatic Fragrance

    I was looking at the classification notes of french perfumery. In addition to aromatic fougeres, they also have aromatic citrus (eg Green Water), aromatic chypres (Halston Z-14, Yatagan), and...
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    Re: Some beginner questions

    Welcome!

    The usual rule of thumb is 10 sprays per ml, so one can do the math. But most people here often have a collecting bug so don't mind big bottles. But I agree that there's no point in...
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    Re: Best designer Aromatic Fragrance

    I too think that usually aromatics means that it has prominent aromatic herbs, like lavender, sage, artemisia, etc.
    So both containing but also being prominent. Old style fougeres did have...
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    Re: Vintage Chanel Bois Des Iles

    Congrats on your find!
    Unfortunately, I have not smelled such old bottles. Given that true sandalwood is now basically unavailable, I suspect that the current iterations contain less true sandalwood...
  77. Re: Spicy, honey, gourmand - I can't put my finger on it

    If you haven't tried, Youth Dew is still good and inexpensive, and it should be available at all Macy's. Lots of cinnamon, perhaps less tobacco. The bath oil is stronger and can be mixed with...
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    Re: Best designer Aromatic Fragrance

    The reintroduced Dior Jules. Almost no sweetness, though.
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    Re: fragrance durability, maintenance

    As other said. The seal (or lack thereof) is in the spraying mechanism, the cap doesn't add anything. So it's just an aesthetic concern.

    As for conservation, perfumes last more than two or three...
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    Re: Gift sets...are they the same juice?

    Agree with others. I've never had any bad experience with gift set. So they are simply promotions. Note that, unlike with other goods, perfumes and cosmetics almost never have sales.

    cacio
  81. Re: Rose and Frankincense for men fragrance search - why is this combination so unusual?

    Tauer Incense Rose is also very good-not quite churchy, a bit fizzy.
  82. Replies
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    Re: Have you ever heard of the fragrance Calyx??

    Interesting what you mention about aging. Turin also said that the late (ie 80s 90s) Estee Lauder (like the Becker ones) do not age well, presumably because some of the chemicals therein turns easily.
  83. Thread: Play-doh

    by cacio
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    Re: Play-doh

    I wonder how it would feel with something aromatic on top, like lavender. Sort of an alternative fougere?
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    Re: Beast mode fragrances

    ELdO Rien
    Amouage Interlude
  85. Replies
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    Re: Best Landmark Fougere

    Never heard of fine american blend. Now I'm curious. Which one is supposed to be the clone of RG, the after shave or the edt? (it comes in both forms).

    Edit: stylinla, our message crossed. i guess...
  86. Thread: Scent trials

    by cacio
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    Re: Scent trials

    The Tauer and 1740 are the most interesting in the set for me. Neither can be really described as all-rounder (nor the others in the list, for that matters). But in small doses they can work in most...
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    Re: The origin of the oud craze in the US

    I agree with others here. I think the explosion was in the late 2000's, with the explosion of niche perfumery. Oud was the perfect material-new, strange, definitely niche, and luxury sounding....
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    Re: Have you ever heard of the fragrance Calyx??

    Beck

    so it is still available... I had not seen it at Macys anymore so I assumed it had been axed, but good to know that I was wrong. Not expensive either.

    cacio
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    Re: Best Landmark Fougere

    I think that the two you mention are probably the best extant aromatic fougeres (together with the resurrected Jules). RG is drier and soapier, Yohji Homme darker and with an anisic licorice touch. I...
  90. Re: Sampled 20+ Niche Fragrances, Looking for Insights

    Re: incense, Epic and Interlude may have some incense among the other notes, but to my nose they are primarily something else, Interlude is a very strong spicy-herbal and Epic a woody oriental....
  91. Replies
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    Re: Have you ever heard of the fragrance Calyx??

    It was easy to find, as it was part of Estee Lauder's stable (under the Prescriptives make up brand). Then EL discontinued the Prescriptives brand and temporarily moved Calyx to the Clinique range....
  92. Re: Jicky - how many sprays for a full wearing out to work, etc.? Hmm

    Re Mouchoir de Monsieur, it's quite close to Jicky (at least the older one I smelled), just more citrusy up top and with a touch more civet in the drydown. And the version I have, as said, is rather...
  93. Re: Sampled 20+ Niche Fragrances, Looking for Insights

    Welcome!

    It does indeed seem that you like dry modern leathers, and tobacco. So just to toss in a couple more of these, for modern leather, Acqua di Parma Colonia leather, for honeyed tobacco,...
  94. Re: Jicky - how many sprays for a full wearing out to work, etc.? Hmm

    I've been thinking about buying the latest jicky, so I'll be curious about this. (I have Mouchoir de Monsieur, which I love, but it is indeed weak and one needs at least 5 sprays to get some...
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    Re: Recommend me a full on masculine I should try!

    Any price range? Knize Ten is a great classic that still works very well. Guerlain Derby for something even more formal.
  96. Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    As you point out, the nineties brought in aquatics and other sharp fresh molecules, and this dominates masculine perfumery. Then darkness was gourmand-with a lot of sugar and vanilla. Then IFRA made...
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    Re: By the Fireplace vs Mac Velvet Teddy vs TV

    I don't remember by the fireplace, but I agree that Velvet teddy is a good perfume and quite inexpensive-to my nose, not worth getting TV (which I like).

    With all the iterations, I don't know what...
  98. Re: you have $300..do you buy 1 niche or 5-10 designer fragrances?

    With $300, you can fit 2 bottles of many niche brands (including 50ml).Depending on what you want, you can find some 50ml niche starting at $100. (And a brand like De Nicolai does 30ml too for...
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    Re: Herbal/aromatic fragrances?

    Krizia Uomo, Aramis Tuscany, Dior Jules.
  100. Replies
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    Re: Frederic Malle Discussion Thread

    I find the TF soapier and not as vetiver-centric as the Malle. The Malle comes off as even fresher and drier to my nose. It is also more expensive, of course, so whether a purchase is warranted...
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