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    Re: Classification of ingredients

    Not 100% accurate everywhere but as good a compilation as one will find:

    https://www.creatingperfume.com/aromachemicalprofilesbyjanetprice.aspx
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    Re: Interesting Two-Component Accords

    In the meantime do try open bottle work, it's (IMO anyway) great and consumes essentially nothing while providing learning and enjoyment.
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    Re: Interesting Two-Component Accords

    Like you I am afraid to consume it in experiments or questionable efforts, and wherever possible I get my feelings of what it will do from open bottle work, or from adding to skin separately without...
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    Re: Interesting Two-Component Accords

    I may be (actually, I have no idea, I do not know what I am talking about) overpaying with Ensar, but I have had zero reason to doubt the quality.

    Suitability of any given oud to me or a given...
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    Re: Formulation Software

    Well, that is a "mic drop" first post for sure!

    Welcome to the forum!

    And thank you for your very generous and quite promising looking software contribution!
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    Re: So many rose components!

    Hazel, my apologies, for some reason I misunderstood you question and thought you were asking about building rose accords That is what my answer was towards.

    On natural rose, you are right, they...
  7. Re: What kind of amber is in Dior Sauvage?

    There are many modern creations I really can't stand. For me, the "super ambers" are major culprits.

    Of course, they're successful, and many enjoy them.
  8. Re: What kind of amber is in Dior Sauvage?

    Ambrocenide 10% ?!?!??!
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    Re: Best Way To Approach Cannabis Scent

    I've bought only individual materials from Terpene University such as alpha-Thujene, beta-Elemene, Verbenone, trans-Nerolidol, Sabinene, and Myrcene. Very happy with each. But I have no idea on the...
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    Re: Best Way To Approach Cannabis Scent

    I have only bought an isolate from them but Abstrax is one source.

    If I remember correctly, Terpene University sells cannabis (perhaps from CBD-type, I don't know) terpene blends also, but I...
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    Re: Help for a poop smell!

    Pell Wall and PCW ( https://www.directpcw.com/ ) sell skatole. That is the real must-have for your stated purpose. It would be completely sufficient, and if you wish to go further, that would be I...
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    Re: So many rose components!

    Hazel, I would more just leave it off for possibly later rather than be concerned for substituting. It is never going to be a major component; it will be well under 1% of the rose. Beeswax Abs can be...
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    Re: Witch Hazel

    If you started with 200 proof alcohol, as a guess you might (might) get away with 1:3 or 1:4 witch hazel to alcohol. With 190 proof, a little less.
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    Re: So many rose components!

    It's possible I'm just annoyingly fussy but I feel the right geraniol and citronellol really are needed. It's not that Geraniol 95 or the like are bad, and once in a full fragrance I would probably...
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    Re: Interesting Two-Component Accords

    That would be great to know!

    It's a funny thing when finding something like this --...
  16. Re: How Much Benzoin Tincture to Achieve Fixative Results?

    The benzoic acid component of benzoic acid is or can be an antimicrobial preservative, but usually is effective only at low pH (which fragrance formulations ordinarily are not) and is irrelevant when...
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    Re: How long should my perfume rest?

    No, the only reason to not try immediately is if you made so little that doing so would prevent your having enough later.

    If it smells different later than now, then experiencing it both ways will...
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    Re: Perfume concentration

    In theory (and in practice if you want) you can count only the actual AC's and avoid counting any of the diluents that may have been included in the concentrate.

    But usually that difference would...
  19. Re: How to utilize the properties of rested ACs

    I don't have Aldehyde C6 (trans-2 I suppose) but I am pretty sure that for anything put on skin, it's going to be about the toppiest of top. I am surprised there is anything left by 24 hours on...
  20. Re: How Much Benzoin Tincture to Achieve Fixative Results?

    Nothing magical goes on with fixatives. These are merely materials which remain on the skin for some time and in which aromamaterials dissolve well, thus causing a tendency for the aromamaterials to...
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    Re: Interesting Two-Component Accords

    I don't have Karmawood. It looks like I really should then.

    Thank you both!
  22. Re: Good supplier for Choya Loban and other Choyas?

    Neither is the Perfumer's Apprentice "Liatrix Absolute," at least not if (they don't show it of course) the original manufacturer SDS is to be believed, which prominently and plainly says it is a...
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    Re: Ready For Some Formula Feedback

    I am not saying you're wrong, but to me it seems extraordinarily heavy in benzyl salicylate and Cedramber (collectively over half the formula), and in Okoumal and Firsantol which to me anyway are...
  24. Re: Can I make an orris accord with these materials?

    I find some similarity between alpha irone and alpha ionone in that they share a violet quality and arguably a litle berry tone, but the irone is to me even more "transparent" and is more "elegant,"...
  25. Re: Can I make an orris accord with these materials?

    Not wishing to be a contrarian, but, to me a good question is what is the point of an orris accord, and also, what would an "orris accord" be?

    Is it to smell similar to some fine Orris Butter?...
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    Re: Musk Mapping

    I didn't know the answers to your questions but checking briefly, musk indane is CAS 15323-35-0 and doesn't have a optical isomer variants. There's just one molecular "version" of it though differing...
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    Re: Musk Mapping

    You're very welcome!
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    Re: Musk Mapping

    It has been moved to a different page on Julian's site: http://quintescential.ca/Musk%20map/Musks.html

    You have to click on things, e.g. "Macrocyclic Musks," to expand them.
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    Re: Tuberose Bases and thoughts from PK

    Yesterday as putting stuff away, I decided to ask what my wife thought on Paul's Tuberose, as I was planning to use it in an upcoming Carolina Herrera Carolina Herrera spinoff that would be for her...
  30. Re: Warning of Fraud Ambergrishunter.com and all its rooted/linked profile

    Great news! :)
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    Re: Ysl m7 (2002)

    Very interesting! Thank you. When M7 came out I knew nothing about oud (or perfuming really) so every unfamiliar aspect pretty much, I attributed to "that must be oud!"

    Ignorant, but so it goes.
  32. Re: How to experience things you cannot smell

    Many will be bored by my saying so yet again, but as it can be an important point, the Perfumers Apprentice so-called "Key Accords" are simply renamed-to-sound-important free Givaudan demo formulas...
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    Re: Ysl m7 (2002)

    Well I still could be! :)

    Or, if I do have the right one in mind, it underwent unfavorable reformulation and PWorld might not have tested the original.
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    Re: Ysl m7 (2002)

    Allegedly this originally used real oud, and then went to some Firmenich oud.

    I really don't closely recall the fragrance so I cannot suggest which Firmenich oud to try, but generally I think...
  35. Re: Creatingperfume.com...is it open for business?

    It does look as if your site will work if knowing what one wants, websearching it, and going right to that link. I didn't take it all the way through to payment, but I did get to that point, when...
  36. Re: At-home extraction of Resinoids - Alcohol vs. Nonpolar solvents

    I wouldn't assume inferior product as a general rule. For some products yes, but for some it might be the opposite.

    The most useful end product will not necessarily have the exact same balance of...
  37. Re: At-home extraction of Resinoids - Alcohol vs. Nonpolar solvents

    [accidental double post]
  38. Re: Creatingperfume.com...is it open for business?

    As she didn't do anything about misbranding on her site after being informed she has cases of it, except telling me to "ask" if I had concerns when ordering, I left her a zero star review on her...
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    Re: Musk Mapping

    I didn't save it, hopefully Julian can repost it.

    In a PM I wrote some commentary on it that may have saved some of the information, but due to mailbox limitation I've been deleting my sent...
  40. Re: At-home extraction of Resinoids - Alcohol vs. Nonpolar solvents

    Thank you. Understood now, you meant risk of inhalation.

    I certainly breathed a fair bit in grad school, as my professor (whom I expect was completely well founded, I couldn't name an exception I...
  41. Re: At-home extraction of Resinoids - Alcohol vs. Nonpolar solvents

    Agreed.

    Incidentally, stickiness doesn't always correlate with being more soluble in ethanol than in low polarity solvent. It can be the other way around, e.g. with Sandarac. It depends on the...
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    Re: libertynatural.com down?

    It is. I don't have a figure for LN's material but I saw something like 30 percent in a paper!

    The reason for risk isn't skin sensitization, which I think I'd forgive for personal use as Coffee...
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    Re: libertynatural.com down?

    The Coffee Flower is gorgeous. I just wish I believed it was safe to use plentifully (if at all.)

    No knock whatsoever is intended on them for carrying a non-compliant material, only a real wish I...
  44. Re: Creatingperfume.com...is it open for business?

    I am guessing the problems are these:

    Inventory is low and it could be that all the items you tried are not actually in stock. I tried adding linalool to the cart, as a test, and was able to get...
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    Re: libertynatural.com down?

    I would have thought I was on the site within about the last week with no problem, but it could have been longer.

    The site isn't working for me either.

    Their phone is 1-800-two-eight-nine-8427...
  46. Re: Solvent for materials that seems partially soluble in ethanol?

    If it were a traditional absolute, generally yes, but as I believe Paul mentioned, sometimes CO2 extracts get called absolutes, and according to for example Perfumer's Apprentice all kinds of things...
  47. Re: Solvent for materials that seems partially soluble in ethanol?

    My bet is that any substantial material that won't dissolve into 190 proof ethanol after dilution to final strength, most of the time also won't dissolve with addition of what I would call reasonable...
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    Re: The Sandalwood Game Proposal & Entries

    Frankincense is hard! (for me anyway)
  49. Brechbill book all in one place (I understand not liking him and/or his book, may do better to skip)

    While searching for Peonile and No Sport by La Parfumerie Moderne, I happened to find all 919 pages of Brechbill's book all in one place:...
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    Re: On Peonile

    Well it is available new but for a silly (to me) €180.00: https://www.laparfumeriemoderne.com/product-page/no-sport-3-4oz
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    Re: Cashmeran too earthy?

    Pell Wall say "Musk-like, spicy, floral, fruity, rich, musty Solvent." Even IFF says "musk-like" rather than musk, but many do say musk.

    I did not continue using it largely for the reason of not...
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    Re: Cashmeran too earthy?

    When you opened your package, did it smell of Geosmin?

    If not, cross contamination during transport with product inside other bottles cannot be an issue.

    If yes, then as to whether other...
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    Re: Cashmeran too earthy?

    Well I received a nice prompt reply this morning!

    But, language difficulty partly did me in, it looks like. (I wrote in English and was replied to in English. I failed to follow my usual...
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    Re: Blue musk accords

    Indeed, "musk" and also "amber" are terms that at the least could use a lot of disambiguation, particularly in popular media.

    It does seem that often "musk" means nothing in particular, or has a...
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    Re: leather+pineapple

    You could shop at PSH and not go wrong with any of the bases offered in any category IMO.

    That said, I don't know cost of shipping to the UK, nor of what may be at Pell Wall there.
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    Re: Blue musk accords

    I may have misread the question. I understood it as blue musk accords, but if it was blue musk accords meaning perfumes with substantial clean musk plus aquatic and or lavender/DHM, then my questions...
  57. Re: I got my first ingredients. How not to screw up?

    I don't care to give attention to such and advise against it. My only reason for posting was that advice. I am not going to advise such account creators as to why they are fairly obvious. I am not...
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    Re: Blue musk accords

    Probably saying the obvious and if so please forgive me, but for clarity the notes listed for perfumes do not necessarily, and usually IMO don't, refer to actual ingredients or even accords. In other...
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    Re: Blue musk accords

    What is "it" that smells blue to you?

    The perfume?

    The musk won't be blue. It is a marketing term only to add apparent appeal or specialness to the perfume, and perhaps to deal with those that...
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    Re: Blue musk accords

    Marketing.

    As to what these marketing terms may mean when meaning anything beyond hoping to rope in more sales: http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2010/03/musk-series-many-permutations-of-musk.html
  61. Re: I got my first ingredients. How not to screw up?

    I expect the OP is indeed having fun, as with other recent guaranteed-bait threads.

    VPN?

    Somewhat interestingly, back when AOL was "the world's largest anonymization service," a company I...
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    Re: How to make a vanilla accord stronger?

    Re-reading the article now refreshed my memory. There were some sad omissions to my above post, as I expected. It's worth checking the article out. It may require a subscription, but it's free.
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    Re: How to make a vanilla accord stronger?

    More from the standpoint of flavor than fragrance, but still, much information: https://media.allured.com/documents/PF_31_03_038_07.pdf

    As I recall, unless the above or other proves me wrong,...
  64. Re: Explanation of the Aroma Chemical families?

    That said, you may have fun visiting the Leffingwell site, which has quite a bit of otherwise-hard-to-find info on aromamaterial families and their members.

    And further, Leffingwell is rigorously...
  65. Re: Explanation of the Aroma Chemical families?

    "An alcohol" doesn't mean anything as there is no real commonality in smell among aromamaterials based on just having an alcohol (-OH) group.

    Nearly every or perhaps all aromamaterials whose names...
  66. Re: I got my first ingredients. How not to screw up?

    Frankly, I see a pattern. Does anyone else?
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    Re: BlackBerry Accord

    I wouldn't know how to make up the other 96.37 percent if the limonene were cut down to 3.63 percent!

    In this case nearly everything is toppy.

    While one doesn't have to, keeping the limonene at...
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    Re: Cashmeran too earthy?

    Maybe theoretical chance of Ventos, Walsh much more likely.

    I do not use it and have not smelled it directly for years but my sample was not bad and was not to me as described above.

    Cashmeran...
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    Re: BlackBerry Accord

    You're very welcome, Amr!
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    Re: Simple fougere formula/oakmoss

    I hope you enjoyed as much as I did! Thank you!

    Now, surely, I ought to go make something for her with it. (Not the Absolute, the Bontoux.)
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    Re: Cashmeran too earthy?

    I have been beginning to suspect for a while that a lot of "IFF" products are counterfeit when not obtained through Ventos.

    I don't have hard physical evidence to back that up, just a lot of stuff...
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    Re: BlackBerry Accord

    I grabbed them off of TGSC in the "Properties" section. I should have mentioned that, as it's not obvious.
  73. Thread: Beard oil

    by Bill Roberts
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    Re: Beard oil

    The forum is DIY (do it yourself), not "I really want to avoid experimenting."

    Websearch.
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    Re: Simple fougere formula/oakmoss

    On this same subject, have any tried the John Steeles and might provide a comparison?

    I have never bought a John Steele lavender largely because there are rather many* and there isn't enough...
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    Re: BlackBerry Accord

    An important note is that headspaces (which I guess but do not know this is) need vapor pressure correction if wanting to relate to a liquid mixture such as one's accord.

    E.g., if in the headspace...
  76. Interesting compound: 1-OCTEN-3-YL ACETATE

    I had never noticed this one before (except with regard to mushroom), although I have more than once wondered about what minor components in lavender particularly add lavender character. We can't buy...
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    Re: Making eucalyptus Eo USP

    Hypothetically, the OP may not have meant being able to claim USP on a label or in any document.

    In an example perhaps somewhat related, I put together what would be needed to produce a hand...
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    Re: Simple fougere formula/oakmoss

    I'm glad you asked Yuri, because your doing so made for some very good home entertainment! :)

    Btw I have checked and my bottle on which Christine hand wrote Lavender Spanish Bontoux is the same...
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    Re: Simple fougere formula/oakmoss

    For a feminine I am particularly fond of Perfumer's Apprentice Lavender France Maillette (Vielle) and also their Lavender France Fleurs (Robertet), with their Fleurs being lighter and more coumarinic...
  80. Re: Is my Exaltoide Total (Firmenich) from PA the real thing?

    You're very welcome!
  81. Re: Is my Exaltoide Total (Firmenich) from PA the real thing?

    Vigon is always honest in their use of brand names. When they use a proprietary name such as Exaltolide, Exaltolide Total, Hedione, Hedione HC, etc that's exactly what it is. No worries there.
    ...
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    Re: Simple fougere formula/oakmoss

    I don't consider it the smoothest or best but it is standardized and perhaps especially useful commercially for that reason.

    I really don't think there's such a thing as a "standard" lavender,...
  83. Re: Is my Exaltoide Total (Firmenich) from PA the real thing?

    The Total is a nice material that, speaking imprecisely, to me gives a softer feel and enhances floralcy in a composition more than the original Exaltolide does, not from being purer but from...
  84. Re: Interesting on methyl cedryl ketone (some may do better skipping, based on ABC quotation)

    I just discovered -- on paper anyway -- the new-to-me Vertofix Coeur Sales.

    Not "Vertofix Coeur," which I had wanted to get and had asked Christine for and it seemed impossible, but "Vertofix...
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    Re: Simple fougere formula/oakmoss

    No reason to add then, too much guesswork, except maybe to make a version at the end if you have testers and can ask which formula they like better.
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    Re: Simple fougere formula/oakmoss

    It seems Linalool 50, meaning 5%, (or L-linalool 50) is quite commonly a good idea for a formula, and Rosewood does much the same.
  87. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands? (EDIT, CP has new owner)

    Thank you GoldWine. Agreed.

    That is, in the US and meaning retailer. I don't think I have ever seen such a problem or anyone saying there was with Rebekka at Liaison Carbone, and while there have...
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    Re: Simple fougere formula/oakmoss

    Thank you!

    The PA purports to be the Givaudan. Whether it is or not is of course another matter entirely. That is what I have myself, and I have never liked it. It looks as if I need to try one or...
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    Re: Simple fougere formula/oakmoss

    I would think so but the note or notes I'm glad are absent are I think not terpenes. Perhaps the product should be called fractionated geranium, but Terpeneless is what it's called.

    The SDS gives...
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    Re: Simple fougere formula/oakmoss

    Which did you prefer and which not?

    The three I see available retail in the US right now, if accompanying SDS's actually do match product, are the Givaudan, the Vigon Mixed Isomers, and the John D...
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    Re: Simple fougere formula/oakmoss

    Gawrsh, I hope the 130 parts Geranium Terpeneless in something recent wasn't a disaster then! :)

    (The Terpeneless is much "cleaner" though.)
  92. Replies
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    Re: Simple fougere formula/oakmoss

    Not at all controversial to leave out bergamot.

    My idea of sensible Oak Moss is the John Steele at 80 parts per thousand, so I suppose no one should listen to me on Oak Moss.

    Some geranyl...
  93. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands? (EDIT, CP has new owner)

    Corrected to "brands." The meaning was, each company, rather than having product that is 100.0000% some given molecule, has one or more versions they sell, differing in impurities and sometimes in...
  94. Re: GCMS of common essential oils and absolutes

    From what I am seeing it is a mixture which for which at least some products have some vetiverol but the amount is not guaranteed to be any more than 10%.

    I had known it wasn't provided pure but...
  95. Re: GCMS of common essential oils and absolutes

    I have the valencene and benzyl acetone (4-PHENYL, 2-BUTANONE) anyway!

    Good for nearly 4%!
  96. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands? (EDIT, CP has new owner)

    To be clear what I mean is such as CP and PA buying Sanderol from Vigon, knowing perfectly well that Sanderol is what they are buying because Vigon is utterly clear about that point, that's what it...
  97. Re: GCMS of common essential oils and absolutes

    Thank you! Very nice!

    Interesting to me that that Vetiver Haiti had no detected vetiverol. (Nor does the one at EODB, even though it goes down to 0.01%.)

    Edit: Still further, this had me...
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    Re: Best Way To Approach Cannabis Scent

    Possibly one or more of the terpene mixes might help you?

    I have never ordered one but have ordered isolated materials from at least one of these companies, Abstrax, and was quite pleased.
  99. Re: An attempt to shake up the creative process

    It seems a lot of unnecessary work, and worse, some of it harmful to outcome.

    As you use up your existing dilutions, why not transition to making all* your dilutions in alcohol at the 10% you are...
  100. Re: Is Creating Perfume still in Susan's hands? (EDIT, CP has new owner)

    As a musician, what would you think about ordering a Fender Artist Series (let's say) but getting a Peavey instead, with a fake Fender logo stuck onto it?

    "Oh, they're both Strat types, they...
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000