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Thread: Helional

  1. #1

    Default Helional

    Compiled from the Note Identification Project thread:

    Helional Ė Milder than I expected. Haylike, but not actually harsh. Real hay absolute takes you on a much wilder ride. This is simplified, like a bit of grass dried in the sun. Hay absolute is prettier, but it asserts itselft like crazy in a fragrance. I can see the use for a synthetic.

    Helional: getting very faint whiffs of wet floral alternating with nail polish remover.

    Helional, 2% dilution in carrier oil: the same effect as Calone, but sweeter and a tad more fruity. Also longer lasting.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Helional

    Helional is described by the manufacturer IFF as:
    Green, floral (cyclemen) with top notes of ozone and new mown hay
    It also goes by a number of other names including ocean propanal, tropional, florial and floramelon.

    The TGSC description is:

    watery, fresh, green, ozone, cyclamen, hay
    [note that these descriptors are presented in order of prominence in the odour]

    I find it a deceptive material that is rather underwhelming on first sniff but has a distinctive smooth, fresh, floralising effect in a fragrance blend. It is restricted by IFRA to 5.3% of the final product when used in alcoholic fragrances, but that still allows for quite high usage and is one of the few green notes that can be used relatively freely without overwhelming and dominating everything else (compare with Cucumber Aldehyde, Galbanum, Violet Leaf Absolute or Stemone for example).

    In pure form it needs careful storage to avoid deterioration - on an industrial scale it is stored under nitrogen.
    ďBattle cries and champagne just in time for sunrise.
    ― David Bowie
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Helional

    Chris, when you say 'needs careful storage', what do you recommend? Storing 'under nitrogen' sounds a bit beyond my touch - does it need to be in the fridge?

  4. #4

    Default Re: Helional

    Quote Originally Posted by FollyFlick View Post
    Chris, when you say 'needs careful storage', what do you recommend? Storing 'under nitrogen' sounds a bit beyond my touch - does it need to be in the fridge?
    It is actually possible to store it under nitrogen by using one of those devices sold for keep opened bottles of wine (not a problem I find happens that often to me - bottles tend to get finished before they have time to spoil). However Iím certainly not suggesting that is necessary: on a domestic scale keeping it under refrigeration and in a tightly closed bottle that is as full as possible is the best solution. If your bottle is 2/3rds full or less decant into something smaller.

    Also keep in mind that, like most aldehydes, itís more stable in alcohol. So you can keep it diluted in ethanol at 10% with less chance of problems.
    ďBattle cries and champagne just in time for sunrise.
    ― David Bowie
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .

    Fine fragrances hand made in The Shire
    Quality perfume making ingredients
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume
    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog for more info about perfumes and perfumery.

  5. #5
    Basenotes Member kassike's Avatar
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    Default Re: Helional

    I'm wondering if I'm somewhat anosmic to Helional. I have now Helional already from three places (PerfumersWorld, Hexpaus and Perfumers Apprentice) and if I smell Helional alone (20% solution, 30% solution), all I can smell is oily smell. Like cooking oil. First I thought it was a bad patch, but it's also if I get Helional from reputable places.
    Does anyone else have such experience? Quoting from Chris's webpage: "Arcadi Boix Camps writes about Helional first in 1978: “A product with a fresh melon fruity odor"... Description from IFF: “Green, floral (cyclamen) with top notes of ozone and new mown hay.”"
    For me: no melon, no ozone, no green, no cyclamen. Just oil, cooking oil.
    Can I do something about it?

  6. #6

    Default Re: Helional

    I have bought some Helional from PerfumersWorld too and to me it smells like honeydew melon. After 6 hours, the odour is still distinct on the blotter. Diffusive but not overpowering. I am doing the evaluation at 10% dilution in alcohol. I have not tried blending it with other material, yet.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Helional

    I'm getting the inside wet part of a watermelon rind, like exactly lol. Mines from IFF.

    Edit: also 10% perfume alcohol dilution, sprayed on strip. Lasts all day, boarding weak/moderate

  8. #8

    Default Re: Helional

    Quote Originally Posted by kassike View Post
    Can I do something about it?
    Try smelling together with Calone or alernating them, try interchanging Calone for Helional in your formulas and note the effect. You can also take cooking oil and slice of melon and smell alongside both ingredients for comparisons to algin visualisation of cooking oil and melon.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Helional

    Quote Originally Posted by Asha View Post
    Compiled from the Note Identification Project thread:

    Helional – Milder than I expected. Haylike, but not actually harsh. Real hay absolute takes you on a much wilder ride. This is simplified, like a bit of grass dried in the sun. Hay absolute is prettier, but it asserts itselft like crazy in a fragrance. I can see the use for a synthetic.

    Helional: getting very faint whiffs of wet floral alternating with nail polish remover.

    Helional, 2% dilution in carrier oil: the same effect as Calone, but sweeter and a tad more fruity. Also longer lasting.
    Helional isn't primarily used to impart anything hay-like to a composition, it is more of a diffusing ingredient used for transparency. Also calone is much longer lasting, one of the longest lasting materials there is.




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