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  1. #1

    Default Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    Hi everyone!
    I am looking for a masculine base accord to build around it an incense fragrance. Most of the base formulas I have tried give that oldish feeling (too musky, too sweet or too soapy). I want something modern and dry. Any suggestions?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    That is too loose a description for any really constructive help.

    Modern and dry what? Modern and dry woods, modern and dry flowers, modern and dry fresh air?

    If you go to the good scents guide and look up the type of smell you want. There are usually guides in the green bar. Click on that for some formulas.

    Use the right hand box

    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/search2.html

    then I typed in dry and got this

    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/...&submit.y=-124

    first two don't have green bars but the third did. Click on it.

    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1017351.html

    Keep doing that with whatever you fancy and eventually something you like will pique your interest. Or compare a few to see what they are doing. Each chem can be clicked on to tell you what it smells like etc etc
    Last edited by mumsy; 16th January 2015 at 01:42 PM.
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  3. #3

    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    Thanks for your answer mumsy. Let me clear up things a bit. Being an incense fan I have composed quite a few mid accords using a 70/30 ratio of naturals/aromachemicals. What I find difficult to do up to now is to make the transition from the beautiful frankincense,rosewood & cedar i.e. combo to a softer but still dry woody finish (let's take as an example the CdG incense series vibe).
    Definitely it is a woody accord I am after. Most of the times thegoodscentscompany gives finished formulas...

  4. #4

    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    I know it does, but I just thought that by finding some woody/incensy formulas you may get inspired by the contents of the bases and be able to see how much they used.

    If I were going to suggest things. I might say boost your current ingredients in the direction you want them to go. Like the cedarwood perhaps with some dryer notes like cedramber, and a merest touch of agarwood, then soften and fill the rosewood with the edge of a rose and some jasmine abs. Just a touch. Then take the edge of the frankincense and see what it needs. Maybe a whisper of an iris and sandalwood for a powdery quality. Then if it is still too muddy, hang this on a transparent base like iso e super or a fresher musk. Just my halfpennies worth….
    The PONK club - gymnosium for perfumers (NOTE:- All club matters still on hold whilst I care for my dad now.)

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  5. #5

    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    Four exercises I might recommend:

    1. Start with a given amount of olibanum, and add your favorite frankincense a little at a time to taste.
    2. Start with a given amount of sandalwood and add frankincense in the same way.
    3. Start with your favorite amber ingredient or simple amber accord, and do the same.

    Then pick your favorite of those three combinations, and start to build a perfume from it. Your favorite spices and lemon notes (e.g., elemi, in particular) are always possibilities with frankincense. Add some musk and/or civet, perhaps. Coriander is another material besides frankincense that is between a wood and a spice, and so could be considered a cousin of sorts. As far as single aromachemicals, there are endless possibilities, and I will leave that to others (iso-e super or timbersilk is a basic masculine (or feminine) note, though, and there are also lots of amber-type materials that can accord with it). Frankincense can also accord with tobacco, as it has a character or "tonality" somewhat parallel to cedar.
    Last edited by DrSmellThis; 16th January 2015 at 04:02 PM.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    Avignon is
    25% Iso E super
    8% Cedryl Methly Ether

    PK
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    Modern (ish) dry woody chemicals include Iso E Super, Cedramber, Trimofix, Valanone B, Ambrocenide, Norlimbanol, Timberol; woody naturals include Cedarwood Virginian, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Cypress oil, Pine Needle.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    I knew I could count on you! Thanks everybody, your advice really shows me a path. I will let you know where it lead me!

  9. #9

    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    To Pkiller : really????

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    Evinick, yes, and If you'd like the full GC, please PM me for an arrangement...

    PK
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    Please do tell us what you decide to do and how it smells?
    The PONK club - gymnosium for perfumers (NOTE:- All club matters still on hold whilst I care for my dad now.)

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  12. #12

    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    Back to report what I did. I took a bit of everyone's advice and prepared two blends. The first one was 5 parts of amber accord (labdanum, benzoin,vanilla) to 1 part frankincense EO. In that one frankincense was ruling for 10-15 min and then it was fading slowly into amber. The second was 6 parts of Iso E to 1 part of methyl cedryl ketone (for its woody, amber, incensy odor). Obviously Iso E was too much and took the upper hand from the beginning. Then I tried to mix those two onto a paper strip and I found out they could work fine together, so I mixed the two blends. I know its too soon to judge, but the impression I get it that everything gives something different while they all seem to bond quite well. Frankincense and meth.cedr.ketone give that incense feeling, but they surely need a help (more of them or something else... maybe some olibanum, myrhh, vetiver?), Amber accord acts more as a stabilizer, a warm background, almost undetectable...very nice. Now Iso e, is very pronounced, definitely needs to be reduced. I m thinking to extend all this by adding more woods i.e. atlas cedar, pine needle, rosewood or sandalwood, some norlimbanol or okoumal or even a trace of PA's oud blend. And finally something for the top : I'd love a spicy start (but not sweet or citrusy). I think of Black pepper, juniper berry, coriander but they need something in between to round them them up. Thats it! Please comment :-)

  13. #13

    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    Could a floral fit in as well and make it more complex and interesting?

  14. #14

    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    A touch of Davana oil would be interesting.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Is there an all around basic Masculine base accord?

    A floral touch of a huge sambac jasmine or rich rose would 'fatten' the blend and give it body. If used lightly, then it will not make the blend feminine.
    The PONK club - gymnosium for perfumers (NOTE:- All club matters still on hold whilst I care for my dad now.)

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