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  1. #1
    Dependent MonsieurChanel's Avatar
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    Default Current Formulation Antaeus - Castoreum Question

    Sorry to bother you folks with this but I have browsed the internet many times and I cannot find a definitive answer on and I guess this is what the forum is for! It's something I've been quite interested in finding out about for a while.. and I was just wondering could someone with some knowledge on perfumery give me their input on this.. I've no knowledge on actual perfumery myself. So I apologise.

    Basically, I was just wondering, does anyone know what form of castoreum is used in current formulation Antaeus? Also, was natural castoreum used in the vintage formulations? I'm pretty much guessing it was.. If so.. and it has been changed to a synthetic alternative.. when did the change take place, etc.. I know this is a somewhat difficult question but if anyone could shed some light on it I'd appreciate it greatly.

    I assume in this day and age, it would be unlikely for such a house to use natural animal derived ingredients? Didn't they drop civet in No.5 sometime around the late 90's? I guess this could be seen as a good or a bad thing, depending on what side of the fence you are on! I had a similar question about YSL Kouros and civet, someone kindly informed me that YSL switched to synthetic civet sometime in the mid 80's (from memory) and only the early years that actually used natural civet.

    But I'm wondering about castoreum this time. I've obviously heard it specifically mentioned in the likes of Chanel Antaeus, it's a dominant note in the fragrance. Many other names have cropped up in the same sentence as castoreum, for example Cuir de Russie, Magie Noire, Lancôme Caractère, Hechter Madame, Givenchy III, and Shalimar. The majority of these I've read on vegan sites so, not specially fragrance experts.. Maybe most of these are using synthetic substitutes nowadays?

    I've seen alot of discussion on civet in the past, musk also. It seems the vast majority of perfumers are indeed using synthetic alternatives nowadays, likely due to various reasons.. likely expense, availability, animal cruelty controversy etc. I can't really find all that much on castoreum though.

    Bottom line, I was simply wondering can anyone on here tell me or at least give me an educated answer what kind of castoreum is used (or is most likely used) in current formulation Chanel Antaeus?

    Any information would be greatly appreciated.

    Many thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Current Formulation Antaeus - Castoreum Question

    Sadly, I can't answer your question. I really got no clue on the type of castoreum they are using now.

    Just to contribute a little: what I know about Antaeus is that there was a formulation from around 2009-2012 (?) that raised a lot of distaste for whatever reason. Then it was supposedly "fixed" from 2013 and beyond. That's all I know about Antaeus, which I think is not exactly the answer you're looking for, sorry...

  3. #3
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Current Formulation Antaeus - Castoreum Question

    I would re-post this in the DIY Forum where you might get more helpful answers from very experienced perfumers.
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  4. #4
    Dependent MonsieurChanel's Avatar
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    Default Re: Current Formulation Antaeus - Castoreum Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Vinnie View Post
    Sadly, I can't answer your question. I really got no clue on the type of castoreum they are using now.

    Just to contribute a little: what I know about Antaeus is that there was a formulation from around 2009-2012 (?) that raised a lot of distaste for whatever reason. Then it was supposedly "fixed" from 2013 and beyond. That's all I know about Antaeus, which I think is not exactly the answer you're looking for, sorry...
    Thank you very much for the info, Vinnie! Anything at all is always a help!

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    I would re-post this in the DIY Forum where you might get more helpful answers from very experienced perfumers.
    Thank you, Hednic! I shall take your advice and re-post in that forum! I never thought to do that, I guess it would be the best place!

  5. #5

    Default Re: Current Formulation Antaeus - Castoreum Question

    Real castoreum is still available on it's own, as beaver is far from being a threatened ( it's a introduced pest in S. America, where it is causing environmental damage.) It's is still trapped to some degree, but no where near like it was in the past. I'd imagine the fragrances today (even the higher end designer stuff) uses synthetic castoreum; for ethical and economic reasons. I'd like to get my hands on some true, and synthetic, castoreum just to make a comparison.




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