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  1. #6361
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Adam is also one of the few perfumers out right now aside from Bortnikoff in the western world who are bringing back the art of traditional Indian style attar making. His ingredients are utilizing ancient techniques that have long been absent from perfumery for ages now and has been completely non existent from western perfumery entirely in the last century.

    Once again researching into the skill behind how these fragrances are made goes far beyond simply “personal taste”. As an artisan/craftsmen myself I nerd out on ancient methods being revived in a way that allows for cohesion of the modern world without feeling ancient.

    Maybe I’m thinking too deep into all of this but I’m sure there has to be others on here who can appreciate how difficult it is to use traditional distillation methods to create timeless infusions used for rather cheap perfumes in the grand scheme of things. It’s not just the ingredients used but it’s how they were created that the more I research into ALD the more I’m becoming enamored in the process of the art.
    Currently wearing: Baque by Slumberhouse

  2. #6362

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Castingshadows View Post
    Well Luca Turin included Siberian Musk in his 2018 perfume guide so there’s actual published reviews on the artistic achievements of Russian Adam by one of the most legendary noses in perfumery in his book

    Indolis also achieved 3 stars from Luca which places Indolis in the group of top perfumes post 2018’s perfume guide.

    Another one of the most well respected reviewers in the community also has quite a lot of amazing things to say about Russian Adam as a perfumer. You can check her reviews out below. She’s also regarded by Luca Turin as one of the best reviewers out there so here’s more evidence other than just personal preference. Hope you enjoy brother! It’s like reading beautiful prose.

    https://kafkaesqueblog.com/?s=Areej+...&submit=Search

    kafkaesque is good at creating decent imagery, but not so good at actually understanding what she smells. Surprised Luca Turin speaks so highly of Russian Adam he's usually prefers the French style of perfume creation.

  3. #6363
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by GoldWineMemories View Post
    kafkaesque is good at creating decent imagery, but not so good at actually understanding what she smells. Surprised Luca Turin speaks so highly of Russian Adam he's usually prefers the French style of perfume creation.
    This to me goes to show how it’s his application of technique in perfumery that is unparalleled regardless of widespread (Or lack there of) critical acclaim. Even though I don’t like a lot of his fragrances it says a lot when the techniques used show a level of sophistication on par with the best perfumers in the world.
    Currently wearing: Baque by Slumberhouse

  4. #6364
    Super Member Sultan al Hindi's Avatar
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Castingshadows View Post
    This to me goes to show how it’s his application of technique in perfumery that is unparalleled regardless of widespread (Or lack there of) critical acclaim. Even though I don’t like a lot of his fragrances it says a lot when the techniques used show a level of sophistication on par with the best perfumers in the world.
    What I'd be really interested to hear is, what fellow perfumers from the western world have to say about the work of Russian Adam, Dimitriy and Ensar oud.
    Someone maybe of the same calibre as Bertrand Duchaufour, Christopher Sheldrake etc who are familiar with making oriental perfumes.

  5. #6365

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    I think Adam, Dimitry and Ensar have discernably different styles. The main thing they have in common is the quality of their ingredients.

    Adam Mixes quite a bit of European style into his perfumes, much more so that the other two.

    Inverno Russo is the stand-out for me - my favourite perfume of all time.

  6. #6366
    Super Member Sultan al Hindi's Avatar
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by MrPod View Post
    I think Adam, Dimitry and Ensar have discernably different styles. The main thing they have in common is the quality of their ingredients.

    Adam Mixes quite a bit of European style into his perfumes, much more so that the other two.

    Inverno Russo is the stand-out for me - my favourite perfume of all time.
    Oh for sure they're different in their styles, but that wasn't my point.

    For me it'd just be out of curiosity to read what the masters of western perfumery, honestly think of the perfumes (technically and scent wise) created by guys who started off as distillers with no formal training in perfume creation.

  7. #6367
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Sultan al Hindi View Post
    Oh for sure they're different in their styles, but that wasn't my point.

    For me it'd just be out of curiosity to read what the masters of western perfumery, honestly think of the perfumes (technically and scent wise) created by guys who started off as distillers with no formal training in perfume creation.
    This is an excellent point and truly a test of real talent from the highest level of actual artisans and not just critics. Sadly perfumers often refrain from critiquing others work. Look what happened to the guy who collabs with Dmitry (wont pretend like i can spell
    His name) on Sayat Nova. He got torn apart for even mentioning that maybe Fjierne wasn’t Josh Lobb’s best work. I’d love to see more critical peer review though. Especially from the top of the ladder.
    Currently wearing: Baque by Slumberhouse

  8. #6368
    New Member publius's Avatar
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Castingshadows View Post
    I’d love to see more critical peer review though. Especially from the top of the ladder.
    Agreed. Enthusiasts like Rajesh are well-informed, which makes their opinions valuable even if there's disagreement. The pile-ons just discourage future content from them...

  9. #6369

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Removed
    Last edited by kirkf; 7th September 2020 at 10:40 PM.

  10. #6370
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by kirkf View Post
    If you're referring to my comments, torn apart is hardly accurate and that wasn't the issue at all. It's fine for a perfumer to have their own opinion. But for a perfumer to say another perfume house is finished or that their best days are behind them is unnecessary and below the belt (and in this case entirely unwarranted). This is especially true when said perfumer is, at the very least, inspired by the person they're talking about. After that exchange another BNer sent a sample of SAYAT NOVA and the BAQUE influence is front and center to my nose. In retrospect it made his comments about Slumberhouse come across as even more envious. To add to that, he then criticized any negative reviews of his own stuff, even going so far as to petition Fragrantica to remove negative reviews of his own perfumes meanwhile he has no problem negatively reviewing other perfumes and perfumers and making petty comments about both. To downplay what happened as "merely mentioning Fjerne" isn't remotely accurate. He was called out by multiple people, and rightfully so.

    As for Areej le Dore, unlike Bortnikoff I really enjoy Areej le Dore and own a couple bottles. Russian Oud is of course my favorite as it seems many other people's favorites as well. It's not as daring as his other work but with a perfume that smells as good as Russian Oud who cares? I never got around to trying any of the attars he's made but maybe one day. I think the only Areej I didn't care for was Indolis.


    This is my point exactly. I didn’t see your post but after reading your sentiments on perfumers having an opinion on other perfumers work it makes sense why peers within the perfume community choose not to critique or be critical of other’s work. I’d rather have someone be honest than to sugar coat something just because I don’t agree with what was said or how it was said.
    Currently wearing: Baque by Slumberhouse

  11. #6371

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Castingshadows View Post
    This is my point exactly. I didn’t see your post but after reading your sentiments on perfumers having an opinion on other perfumers work it makes sense why peers within the perfume community choose not to critique or be critical of other’s work. I’d rather have someone be honest than to sugar coat something just because I don’t agree with what was said or how it was said.
    The main thing wrong with perfumers critiquing each other’s work is the conflict of interest. Rbalkris has done some interesting collaborations and some nice perfume reviews but his comments about Slumberhouse weren’t the least bit informative or interesting. He just attacked the perfumer and said his best days were behind him. I’m still interested in his future collabs but this was a pretty disappointing personal attack instead of a review(also the review compared Fjerne to Baque which is a bit of head scratcher considering it’s the least like Baque when he didn’t mention Ore which it actually is a bit like).

    Also—Lots of perfumers do write about each other’s perfumes. All over Çafleurebon & Fragrantica. Most of them are respectful and informative. This was just a really strange situation. Still don’t really get what it was all about.
    Currently wearing: Chypre Palatin by MDCI

  12. #6372

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Cranked up the AC and basking in some War and Peace II. Can’t wait for Fall but...this stuff will be brilliant on a wool coat when it’s snowing outside.

  13. #6373

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Removed
    Last edited by kirkf; 7th September 2020 at 10:40 PM.

  14. #6374
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Ok, I think we’ve had enough of the ‘rbalkris sideshow’. Shall we get back to ALD and the upcoming 6th collection?

    Right now I’m wondering why Santal Galore is offered in bottles of 50 ml... Why not 30 ml? Clearly a possibly off-putting ‘durian note’ might deter some fans (if the bottle price doesn’t) but wouldn’t a smaller 30 ml offering make more sense?
    Currently wearing: Dia Man by Amouage

  15. #6375

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Removed
    Last edited by kirkf; 7th September 2020 at 10:39 PM.

  16. #6376

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Ok, I think we’ve had enough of the ‘rbalkris sideshow’. Shall we get back to ALD and the upcoming 6th collection?

    Right now I’m wondering why Santal Galore is offered in bottles of 50 ml... Why not 30 ml? Clearly a possibly off-putting ‘durian note’ might deter some fans (if the bottle price doesn’t) but wouldn’t a smaller 30 ml offering make more sense?
    Yeah interesting point. Especially since it would make closer to 450 bottles available. Maybe he thinks it’s the coolest thing he’s done and he wants it to be the hype release of the collection?
    Currently wearing: Chypre Palatin by MDCI

  17. #6377

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by kirkf View Post
    I'm most curious about Santal Galore and also wondered why the 50ml size as well. The idea of a durian note seems too crazy to me. My guess is it is a well behaved durian-esque accord and not a true interpretation of the fruit. At least I really hope it's not a true interpretation of the fruit. That stuff is super foul.
    People seem to be assuming that the durian note will be that of a ripe, open durian. But fresh durian has a much less fetid aroma, which is much more creamy. In Malaysia many sweets, cakes and ice creams are flavoured with durian. These smell recognisably of durian, but do not have the Strong smell of the over-ripe durian.
    I think its that creamy note he's going for, especially as he posted a picture of durian ice-cream, saying it was his favourite.
    I think the creamy note will work really well with Sandalwood.

  18. #6378
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by MrPod View Post
    People seem to be assuming that the durian note will be that of a ripe, open durian. But fresh durian has a much less fetid aroma, which is much more creamy. In Malaysia many sweets, cakes and ice creams are flavoured with durian. These smell recognisably of durian, but do not have the Strong smell of the over-ripe durian.
    I think its that creamy note he's going for, especially as he posted a picture of durian ice-cream, saying it was his favourite.
    I think the creamy note will work really well with Sandalwood.
    Speaking of durian ice-cream, I recently went against my better judgement and demolished a half-litre tub of Mao Shan Wang (Mountain Cat) durian ice cream over 2 days. It was sooo good!

    That said, I do agree, if Adam was successful in taming the more fetid notes of overripe durian variants, it could well be a goldmine when paired with aged Mysore. I don’t need 50 ml of any fragrance but a beautiful bottle presentation might persuade me otherwise.
    Currently wearing: Dia Man by Amouage

  19. #6379

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    I’m sure the Durian fruit proved to work out well or it wouldn’t be in the final composition. I have 2 thoughts on it... 1) Musk, Ambergris, Civet all smell nasty in concentrated form up close by themselves and 2) he used durian powder which does not represent the same profile as a fresh cut ripe durian fruit.

    I’m sort of hoping we can pick out a little funk in there somewhere but I bet it’s so smooth, creamy and blended that there will be nothing offputting about it...but still hoping for a little funk lol.

    Not sure about the 50ml but assuming it’s to showcase this composition as a stand apart from the rest.

  20. #6380

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Well, he's got some Deer Musk in there as well, which should funk it up a little

  21. #6381

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    I have no idea what Durian, over ripe or creamy smells like at all. To say I'm intrigued by the sound of this would be an understatement. Obviously I'm hoping for the "creamy" aspect more than the dead, rotted aspect of Durian. Excited to find out what each fragrance from ALD series #6 smells like.

  22. #6382
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Proust_Madeleine View Post
    Yeah interesting point. Especially since it would make closer to 450 bottles available. Maybe he thinks it’s the coolest thing he’s done and he wants it to be the hype release of the collection?
    Yeah, I'm sort of leaning toward the 50ml being yet another way to differentiate and give the release potential unicorn/holy grail collectability status.

  23. #6383

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by MrPod View Post
    Well, he's got some Deer Musk in there as well, which should funk it up a little
    I do love musk!

  24. #6384
    Super Member joe king's Avatar
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    I believe the bigger and more expensive 50ml bottles is more likely to discourage scalpers...

  25. #6385

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by joe king View Post
    I believe the bigger and more expensive 50ml bottles is more likely to discourage scalpers...
    I doubt it. If that was the case he wouldn’t have mentioned “exclusive” or the limited number of bottles.

  26. #6386
    Super Member joe king's Avatar
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Dothraki View Post
    I doubt it. If that was the case he wouldn’t have mentioned “exclusive” or the limited number of bottles.
    Sorry I should have been more clear I meant releasing larger sizes at higher prices means scalpers are less likely to buy as it is a higher risk and outlay for them, I am not sure what Adam's intentions are.

  27. #6387
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Proust_Madeleine View Post
    Yeah interesting point. Especially since it would make closer to 450 bottles available. Maybe he thinks it’s the coolest thing he’s done and he wants it to be the hype release of the collection?
    I’m hoping this is the case because it’s the one bottle I want to blind buy haha!!
    Currently wearing: Baque by Slumberhouse

  28. #6388

    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Castingshadows View Post
    I’m hoping this is the case because it’s the one bottle I want to blind buy haha!!
    I probably would too but I usually miss the jump on things like this so I’m really glad it’s part of the sample set! Can’t wait to bounce first impressions back and forth on the new stuff! Hoping sooooooon!

  29. #6389
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Dothraki View Post
    I probably would too but I usually miss the jump on things like this so I’m really glad it’s part of the sample set! Can’t wait to bounce first impressions back and forth on the new stuff! Hoping sooooooon!
    Dude totally! Once again I love how passionate this section of the fragrance community is. I’m genuinely stoked for this release.
    Currently wearing: Baque by Slumberhouse

  30. #6390
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    Default Re: Areej le Doré : The Official Discussion Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by joe king View Post
    Sorry I should have been more clear I meant releasing larger sizes at higher prices means scalpers are less likely to buy as it is a higher risk and outlay for them, I am not sure what Adam's intentions are.
    On the contrary, this is EXACTLY the kind of stuff scalpers look for: limited quantity, novel accords and status as an ALD site-only exclusive. The real question is can the formula be replicated in possible future editions? If fans can hope for a 2nd release as in WPII’s case it can potentially dampen the scalping.
    Currently wearing: Dia Man by Amouage




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