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  1. #1
    Basenotes Member Haggerston's Avatar
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    Default Beard oil - how to benefit from a visit to the dark side?

    There are a number of different threads on beard oil here already, so apologies for starting a new one. But I am hoping to start a thread focused purely on technical matters, i.e. not a discussion linked to specific notes.

    Personally, while most of my beard oil attempts so far have worked out OK in terms of scent and cosmetic properties, they have almost no projection whatsoever. Despite using liberal (and therefore costly) proportions of ACs it stays close to the skin at all times. From studying this forum, I suspect that the solution might be found in using synthetics.

    My question is therefore whether including a certain percentage of synthetics to the oil could solve this problem. A perfume hidden inside the oil so to speak. How realistic does this sound, and if so which compounds to choose? And most importantly perhaps; in what proportions? (Drench the whole thing in alcohol and you are looking at an aftershave, not a beard oil..)

    My (limited) understanding is that I could use exalting agents/diffusers to boost things. Research so far has led me to compounds such as Hedione, Precyclemone B, Iso E, Okoumal, Ambrocenide, Evernyl, Vertofix and Ultrazur – but I am sure there are plenty of others. Is there any hope that any of these could help 'lift' my desired ACs and therefore project them further away from the skin?

    And if so, how to work out the percentages/relationships?

    In my head it would work out something like this:
    Cosmetic oils + Boosters/exalters + Scents = 100%
    Last edited by Haggerston; 10th August 2017 at 12:40 PM.

  2. #2
    Super Member williamroe's Avatar
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    Default Re: Beard oil - how to benefit from a visit to the dark side?

    Why not use an oil with a light fragrance and spray some of your favorite cologne on your beard? I use beard oil and have done this - it works well for me as long as the fragrances do not conflict....

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Beard oil - how to benefit from a visit to the dark side?

    I've decided that I *don't want* projection in a beard oil. Spread out on hair with such a big surface area like that, right below the nose, it easily gets to the point of messing with my senses of smell/taste.

    That said, I do still add a little iso e or Timbersilk to cedar oils for it, and it does project noticeably to others reading as just stronger sweet cedar. I only get wafts myself once in a while, so I probably go partially anosmic while I'm wearing it.

    Ultrazur was a big no. Way too much up the nose, clashing hard with real life scents, like food. It was very annoying.

    Edit: When you say "AC" as opposed to "synthetic," are you referring to essential oils?
    Last edited by VThom; 10th August 2017 at 01:09 AM.

  4. #4
    Basenotes Member Haggerston's Avatar
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    Default Re: Beard oil - how to benefit from a visit to the dark side?

    Thanks for the answer. It seems you are a few steps ahead of me down the same path of exploration.

    Edit: When you say "AC" as opposed to "synthetic," are you referring to essential oils?
    Sorry, I guess I am muddling up my use of the terms a little. I basically meant looking at synthetics as a primarily as means of boosting/exalting, as opposed to including them primarily for the sake of liking the scent. I already use synthetics for the 'scent' part of my beard oil, but at the moment I am getting very little value for money in terms of projection.

    But you are already working in that territory it seems. How did you work out the proportion of Timbersilk/Iso E? And do you work on the the 'scent' separately, then decide how much of it you will add to the oil? Or do you work out the beard oil as a total project from scratch?
    Last edited by Haggerston; 10th August 2017 at 11:45 AM.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Beard oil - how to benefit from a visit to the dark side?

    Quote Originally Posted by Haggerston View Post
    It seems you are a few steps ahead of me down the same path of exploration.
    Not much, though. I only started beard oil less than 2 years ago, just dropping some EOs in here and there for a while. I've treated it more like a very simple functional thing.

    ...at the moment I am getting very little value for money in terms of projection.
    Have you asked other people about that? I know when I'm wearing something, especially something in the beard, I can't detect it much after a very short time. I've been surprised at comments (from "oh that smells nice" to "what the hell is that smell?!?") I've gotten hours after I thought the scent was gone. Between that and wanting normal smell and taste, I've reduced the scent levels - going for subtler instead of projection. A beard is basically a giant scent diffuser.

    The exalting effect of the other woody-amber aromachemicals really is to just make it say "Cedar." a little more firmly, and seems to make last longer - all day instead of a few hours. When I tried any of the ozonic things like that Ultrazur, it felt like they were stabbing my sinuses and coating my tongue. Musks got nauseating after being stuck with them in my face, too. Kephalis wasn't so bad, in small doses, it tended to disappear (to my nose) like the iso e relatives and didn't feel like I was eating it. It was nice with a super-light mix of hay absolute and liatrix or tonka.

    How did you work out the proportion of Timbersilk/Iso E? And do you work on the the 'scent' separately, then decide how much of it you will add to the oil? Or do you work out the beard oil as a total project from scratch?
    Nothing scientific I'm afraid. Haven't even been using weights or making formulas to follow for beard oil like I would with more abstract perfumery, just casually throw it together by drops. I basically start with some oils, say 1 ml of VA cedarwood, then add around 5 or so drops each of maybe iso e or Timbersilk and vetiveryl acetate diluted at 10% from my test bottles. The vetiveryl acetate is there to move the cedar a little away from "hamster cage," and helps with longevity too. Vetivers and oakmoss can really keep stuff hanging on. That under 1.5ml of mix would then go into a 30ml bottle of base oils. Sometimes that's even too strong depending on the EO; I just happen to really love cedar. I sure wouldn't do that with galbanum, but I probably would have with the old sandalwood we used to be able to afford. If the scent seems too thin, I'll just add a little more.

    I should probably start measuring and writing things down anyway. I use this stuff more than anything else.

    do you ever use alcohol at all? If so, how, and how much?
    All of the aromachemicals and most of the essential oils I already have diluted to 10% or less in ethanol, sometimes with DPG or IPM if they helped with dissolution. That's the perfumery stage I'm at, pre-diluting everything to where my nose doesn't freak out while I play around with them. But I use so little the alcohol just disappears in the oil once blended. There's not enough to notice, even if the main parts of the scent are in alcohol.

    Speaking of isopropyl myristate, sometimes I will add another 2-3% to beard oils when I'm using the grabby ones that aren't as lubricating, like baobab or black castor. It makes combing smoother and seems to add gloss, almost like a silicone compound would (and IPM washes right out instead of leaving indelible stains on pillowcases). Jojoba and argan didn't need the extra help.

    Another thought--I've heard jojoba can deaden scents. That might apply to skin more than hair, but it kind of makes sense being technically a wax. Worth considering anyway.
    Last edited by VThom; 10th August 2017 at 10:12 AM.

  6. #6
    Basenotes Member Haggerston's Avatar
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    Default Re: Beard oil - how to benefit from a visit to the dark side?

    1.5ml of mix would then go into a 30ml
    So 5% I think? We're roughly at the same ratio then.


    I've heard jojoba can deaden scents.
    Very good point. Thanks. Next round I'll split the project into a hemp base, a refracted coconut base and a jojoba base. Then see what happens. Solve for X basically.


    I hear your advice on ozone scents, but I think I'll at least try a little Precyclemone B, which if I understand things correctly is in the same family but a bit less pronounced. And instead of your Iso E, I think I might start with Hedione. But I would still follow your proportions of a 10% dilution, then use that dilution as to be 25% of the EO/AC combo ... hmm... then it seems the exalter is just about 0.1% of the total beard oil no?
    Last edited by Haggerston; 10th August 2017 at 12:40 PM.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Beard oil - how to benefit from a visit to the dark side?

    Sure, you could start with those proportions as well as any. You'll probably change them to your taste later, and they'd be somewhat different for each fragrance blend. I haven't used Precyclemone B or Hedione in a beard oil because they go different directions than the main scents I've used. I'm sure the Hedione would be just fine if it fits the scent and it's very versatile, but be careful of Precyclemone B, it doesn't take much and easily turns into a foul, scraping, cheap-detergent note to me. I might just be oversensitive.




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