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  1. #61

    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    You certainly laid out all the points of obsession. The anticipation of fragrance delivery is expecially exciting, particularly with vintages. Sorry to hear about the L”Origan EDT - hope it gets back on track and pops up at your door. Both the Crepe de Chine extrait and the EDC are beautiful. In honor of your impending L’Origan extrait ownership I will bravely uncork my little bottle and give it a wear this week! Might do that with some other Cotys I’ve been waffling about as well. Please share what you think about the L’Origan.
    This little beauty just arrived, and I love it! More than L'Aimant, although they share some dna...love the clovey, medicinal aspect. I definitely get the peach (an apple-like peach), blended with florals. There is a face powder/makeup note as it dries that resembles almond biscotti. I'm already wearing something else, so not giving it the full skin review. Dammit, still haven't mastered editing for images on this interface...
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    L'Origan has gone viral!

  3. #63

    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by Couronne de Violette View Post
    This little beauty just arrived, and I love it! More than L'Aimant, although they share some dna...love the clovey, medicinal aspect. I definitely get the peach (an apple-like peach), blended with florals. There is a face powder/makeup note as it dries that resembles almond biscotti. I'm already wearing something else, so not giving it the full skin review. Dammit, still haven't mastered editing for images on this interface...
    I think the pic looks fine. Very nice bottle! Is it Friday already? I was going to uncork my dram of L'Origan this week but got distracted by other fragrances. I'm definitely going to wear it for my vintage SOTD tomorrow. What you have described in your perfume so far sounds familiar to the EDT I've tried.

    I'm just learning these Coty vintages so I'm loving all the history and the notes about these fragrances.
    I'm still making my way through all the links of information in the thread so far but I'm looking forward to more discussion from the BN vintigistas, and even feeling fine about my guilty pleasure yard sale find of Lady Stetson.


    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    L'Origan has gone viral!
    Considering his marketing approach I'd have to think Coty would be proud. Do you think Coty could ever envision L'Origan being talked about (and actually floating in the atmosphere) in 2019? Amazing!
    ”I want all the perfumes”

  4. #64

    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    I think the pic looks fine. Very nice bottle! Is it Friday already? I was going to uncork my dram of L'Origan this week but got distracted by other fragrances. I'm definitely going to wear it for my vintage SOTD tomorrow. What you have described in your perfume so far sounds familiar to the EDT I've tried.

    I'm just learning these Coty vintages so I'm loving all the history and the notes about these fragrances.
    I'm still making my way through all the links of information in the thread so far but I'm looking forward to more discussion from the BN vintigistas, and even feeling fine about my guilty pleasure yard sale find of Lady Stetson.




    Considering his marketing approach I'd have to think Coty would be proud. Do you think Coty could ever envision L'Origan being talked about (and actually floating in the atmosphere) in 2019? Amazing!
    I would hope so; I read that François Coty died in poverty after being one of the richest men in Europe for defining desire in the form of fragrance. After a nice 8 hour skin test, L'Origan lives up to every accolade. A masterpiece.

  5. #65

    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by StellaDiverFlynn View Post

    L'Origan and L'Heure Bleue is probably more removed from each other compared to the former two pairing, with L'Heure Bleue taking the almond-y heliotrope-tonka-orange blossom core of L'Origan and rendering it more polished with the addition of signature Guerlinade. But in this case, I much prefer the seemingly more crude L'Origan, with its heavy dose of spicy clove (probably the Diathine base?) providing a more vivid contrast to the more delicate herbal sweetness of violet (a base of ionone if I remember correctly) and the creamy, enveloping almond-y heliotrope-tonka-orange blossom heart.
    .
    I received a L'Origan EdT today, probably 50s era, and the spices are very prominent; almost like clove oil but with nutmeg softening. Beautiful interplay between the two and the spice note lasts all the way through. Orange blossom is very dim, but the floral violet/heliotrope and tonka are even softer than in the parfum. My little parfum version has a very definite peach/orange blossom opening on a bed of spice, then turning to almond powder. In love with this scent; one of the greats, even if not as thrilling and evocative as L'HB. Wish I had the budget of some on this board to sample all the vintage Cotys.

  6. #66
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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    L'Origan has gone viral!
    Alright f*ck it.

    I just blind bought some vintage L'Origan parfum. Couronne de Violette's description made my mouth water.
    "A man has made at least a start on discovering the meaning of human life when he plants shade trees under which he knows full well he will never sit. "

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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Alright f*ck it.

    I just blind bought some vintage L'Origan parfum. Couronne de Violette's description made my mouth water.
    Resistance is futile, sir. Can't wait to hear what you think of the parfum when you get it.

    Here's a quirky, surrealist L'Origan ad from 1940 with a large femme fatale taking aim. The L'Origan ad taglines were usually "The Golden" or. "For Your Golden Moments."

    283AD7B0-F6BF-4D7E-9199-DFB1EE121E41.jpeg

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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Resistance is futile, sir. Can't wait to hear what you think of the parfum when you get it.

    Here's a quirky, surrealist L'Origan ad from 1940 with a large femme fatale taking aim. The L'Origan ad taglines were usually "The Golden" or. "For Your Golden Moments."

    283AD7B0-F6BF-4D7E-9199-DFB1EE121E41.jpeg
    Haha, I love that. The man *has* to walk through the L'Origan door to get the girl. That's me! I'm the guy!! lol
    "A man has made at least a start on discovering the meaning of human life when he plants shade trees under which he knows full well he will never sit. "

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  9. #69

    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Alright f*ck it.

    I just blind bought some vintage L'Origan parfum. Couronne de Violette's description made my mouth water.

  10. #70

    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Alright f*ck it.

    I just blind bought some vintage L'Origan parfum. Couronne de Violette's description made my mouth water.
    Enablement is contagious.
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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    I’m trying L’Origan edt and cologne.

    Attachment 107883

  12. #72
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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    My L'Origan Parfum arrived safely (thank you for not coming Hurricane Dorian!). I will wear it soon and post my thoughts.

    Mine looks just like the one grayspoole posted above, on the right, in this pic.. Grayspoole, what circa year is this one, do you think?
    "A man has made at least a start on discovering the meaning of human life when he plants shade trees under which he knows full well he will never sit. "

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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by Couronne de Violette View Post
    I received a L'Origan EdT today, probably 50s era, and the spices are very prominent; almost like clove oil but with nutmeg softening. Beautiful interplay between the two and the spice note lasts all the way through. Orange blossom is very dim, but the floral violet/heliotrope and tonka are even softer than in the parfum. My little parfum version has a very definite peach/orange blossom opening on a bed of spice, then turning to almond powder. In love with this scent; one of the greats, even if not as thrilling and evocative as L'HB. Wish I had the budget of some on this board to sample all the vintage Cotys.
    I agree with these notes on L'Origan edt. I get clove and it's not as involved as L'Heure Bleue, but I imagine most L'Heure Bleue fans, such as myself, would like it. It is so agreeable.

    Someone in the reviews mentioned civet, and that would help explain why I like it so much. This edt mini is an inexpensive way to try some nice, animalic (and powdery) vintage.

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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    My L'Origan Parfum arrived safely (thank you for not coming Hurricane Dorian!). I will wear it soon and post my thoughts.

    Mine looks just like the one grayspoole posted above, on the right, in this pic.. Grayspoole, what circa year is this one, do you think?
    I don’t know this with certainty, just from gazing at vintage ads, but I think these bottles date from the 1960’s-70’s. The bottles with the gold embossed labels (like the one on the left) are older. I look forward to hearing what you think.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I agree with these notes on L'Origan edt. I get clove and it's not as involved as L'Heure Bleue, but I imagine most L'Heure Bleue fans, such as myself, would like it. It is so agreeable.

    Someone in the reviews mentioned civet, and that would help explain why I like it so much. This edt mini is an inexpensive way to try some nice, animalic (and powdery) vintage.
    Although the comparison with LHB is seemingly inevitable, the more I wear these perfumes, the more different they seem. Of course, any comparisons will vary depending on which versions/formulations you are testing. My LHB extract from 1960-67 has an almost shocking amount of civet, which is completely absent in the pâtisserie of my newer, circa 2000 LHB.

    I’m completely captivated by the dry down of L’Origan. Without the heavier vanillin of the Guerlain, the Coty perfume weaves a more subtle, complex spell of nitromusks, lingering floral notes, and civet. The notes seem to flicker in and out of my perception. I believe Coty did not appreciate the Guerlain vanillin. I wonder if Coty’s use of natural tinctures, as reported by Coifan and others, along with more typical, heavier perfume ingredients, provides this rich but transparent quality to the composition.

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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Although the comparison with LHB is seemingly inevitable, the more I wear these perfumes, the more different they seem. Of course, any comparisons will vary depending on which versions/formulations you are testing. My LHB extract from 1960-67 has an almost shocking amount of civet, which is completely absent in the pâtisserie of my newer, circa 2000 LHB.

    I’m completely captivated by the dry down of L’Origan. Without the heavier vanillin of the Guerlain, the Coty perfume weaves a more subtle, complex spell of nitromusks, lingering floral notes, and civet. The notes seem to flicker in and out of my perception. I believe Coty did not appreciate the Guerlain vanillin. I wonder if Coty’s use of natural tinctures, as reported by Coifan and others, along with more typical, heavier perfume ingredients, provides this rich but transparent quality to the composition.
    Inevitable, but fleeting. I agree it's different enough to distance itself. I keep thinking that if someone likes one of them, they would probably like the other.

    I like Guerlain vanilla. Chanel used a variation on it for the original Pour Monsieur Concentree. I've stocked up on that and Habit Rouge, and I have a smattering of other Guerlains to sample when the mood strikes. I'm a fan, but I don't miss the vanilla when it's not there, in this case, at least.

  16. #76
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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I like Guerlain vanilla. Chanel used a variation on it for the original Pour Monsieur Concentree. I've stocked up on that and Habit Rouge, and I have a smattering of other Guerlains to sample when the mood strikes. I'm a fan, but I don't miss the vanilla when it's not there, in this case, at least.
    Oh, believe me, I also like the use of vanillin in classic Guerlains—a beautiful, essential component in Shalimar, LHB, Vol de Nuit. I am just speculating on why/how L’Origan and LHB feel like they have such different textures and degrees of transparency on the skin.

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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I don’t know this with certainty, just from gazing at vintage ads, but I think these bottles date from the 1960’s-70’s. The bottles with the gold embossed labels (like the one on the left) are older. I look forward to hearing what you think.
    I wore it to bed a couple days ago. Too quick to post a full review but I immediately recognized the L'Heure Bleue connection (I have owned vintage LhB in the EdC and PdT formulations). But...I do know this - in the morning I couldn't smell the Coty at all. Whereas, when I have worn LHB to bed...I can clearly smell it on me in the morning. So perhaps I'm experiencing the same 'transparency' as others in this thread, when it comes to L'Origan versus it's peers.
    "A man has made at least a start on discovering the meaning of human life when he plants shade trees under which he knows full well he will never sit. "

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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post

    Rose Jacqueminot (1904)
    L'Origan (1905)
    Styx (1911)
    Chypre (1913)
    Muguet de Bois (1913)
    Emeraude (1918)
    Paris (1922)
    L'Aimant (1927)

    A'Suma (1934)
    I've now tried the ones in bold. I think L'Origan and L'Aimant smell like fragrances of a similar style, with warm, sweet bases.

    Overall, I'm more excited by these than, say, the Godet's from the MixerScent pass.

    I've mostly been impressed with vintage Coty. I certainly like it more than modern fragrances.

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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Hi Vintage Coty Fans—

    Viktoriya Wlasowa has published a very insightful discussion on some recent Coty reconstructions on the Other Forum. I enjoyed reading it.

    https://www.fragrantica.com/news/His...004-14718.html

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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Thanks for the heads up! Very nice read.
    The impossibility of bringing these back, of course, is not just that Coty is now more interested in a different market segment. It's that IFRA made almost all of these perfume impossible.
    cacio

  21. #81

    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    I just read through this whole interesting thread. Just a couple things...

    I don't find Imprevu to be a leather chypre in the vein of other isobutyl quinoline leather chypres like Bandit or Miss Balmain. I don't detect any of that harsh leather ingredient, rather I detect a vanilla (my Haarman & Reimer guide confirms this as well) which, combined with the other basenotes, does produce a sort of natural sweet leather effect, but it's definitely not one of the "harsh" IsoBQ leather chypres. I'm wondering if that poster's Imprevu came in a splash bottle and maybe it was refilled with a different fragrance, possibly.

    About Coty Chypre, the 1986 "Chateau Collection" EDT & EDP bears no resemblance to vintage Coty Chypre. I find it to be a very pleasant, late 70s/early 80s influenced sweet green floral, but it smells nothing like the original Coty Chypre.

    Regarding the Coty crown bottles, I have the crown bottle of Coty Chypre PdT (shown below). I believe it dates to the early 60s, just before Pfizer took over and discontinued Coty Chypre, Chouchou and Styx (before reintroducing the latter in the '70s).

    my coty chypre pdt 60s.jpg

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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Thanks for replying, tourmaline! To continue the discussion...

    Quote Originally Posted by tourmaline View Post
    I just read through this whole interesting thread. Just a couple things...

    I don't find Imprevu to be a leather chypre in the vein of other isobutyl quinoline leather chypres like Bandit or Miss Balmain. I don't detect any of that harsh leather ingredient, rather I detect a vanilla (my Haarman & Reimer guide confirms this as well) which, combined with the other basenotes, does produce a sort of natural sweet leather effect, but it's definitely not one of the "harsh" IsoBQ leather chypres. I'm wondering if that poster's Imprevu came in a splash bottle and maybe it was refilled with a different fragrance, possibly.
    As you saw, I am in agreement with you; however, I do think there’s a touch of IBQ in Imprevu. I infer that you are not a fan of this ingredient, but I love it and do not find it harsh at all. Imprevu is a pretty, gently modulated chypre. It ticks all of the boxes but it ultimately feels somewhat “safe” and middle of the road. And of course Chant could pour a lot of IBQ into a perfume when he was in the mood (vide Cabochard, Aramis, Azuree).

    About Coty Chypre, the 1986 "Chateau Collection" EDT & EDP bears no resemblance to vintage Coty Chypre. I find it to be a very pleasant, late 70s/early 80s influenced sweet green floral, but it smells nothing like the original Coty Chypre.
    I agree with you here too, It’s unfortunate that the 1986 version has come to shape so many discussions of vintage chypres because it confuses rather than clarifies the issue. (I find the1986 Chypre to be somehow sharp and sweet at the same time, but with a distressing lack of substance.)

    Regarding the Coty crown bottles, I have the crown bottle of Coty Chypre PdT (shown below). I believe it dates to the early 60s, just before Pfizer took over and discontinued Coty Chypre, Chouchou and Styx (before reintroducing the latter in the '70s).
    I don’t believe I have ever seen a “crown” bottle of Chypre in the wild. Lucky you! What do you make of it? In general, I prefer my Coty Paris bottles to the crown bottles of L’Origan and Emeraude that I have, but when it comes to Coty Chypre, one grabs whatever one can.

  23. #83

    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Thanks for replying, tourmaline! To continue the discussion...



    As you saw, I am in agreement with you; however, I do think there’s a touch of IBQ in Imprevu. I infer that you are not a fan of this ingredient, but I love it and do not find it harsh at all. Imprevu is a pretty, gently modulated chypre. It ticks all of the boxes but it ultimately feels somewhat “safe” and middle of the road. And of course Chant could pour a lot of IBQ into a perfume when he was in the mood (vide Cabochard, Aramis, Azuree).



    I agree with you here too, It’s unfortunate that the 1986 version has come to shape so many discussions of vintage chypres because it confuses rather than clarifies the issue. (I find the1986 Chypre to be somehow sharp and sweet at the same time, but with a distressing lack of substance.)



    I don’t believe I have ever seen a “crown” bottle of Chypre in the wild. Lucky you! What do you make of it? In general, I prefer my Coty Paris bottles to the crown bottles of L’Origan and Emeraude that I have, but when it comes to Coty Chypre, one grabs whatever one can.
    There might be a little IsoBQ in Imprevu but I don't sense any of that quality which hard leather chypres have and my Haarman and Reimer guide also doesn't note any "leather" like they generally do when IsoBQ is present in a fragrance. On the other hand, I have never smelled IsoBQ in isolation. So who am I to say if it's present or not? lol. I have always assumed that IsoBQ is a harsh, slightly gasoline-ish or "used motor oil" type of smell, but then again maybe it is subtly sweet and rubbery like the "leather" in Knize 10 and Tabac Blond. I'm not certain.
    I have a collection of aromachemicals I've been curious enough about to order, like various aldehydes, undecalactone, isobornyl acetate, oakmoss E.O.s., etc. I think I probably should order a vial of IsoBQ to know once and for all what it smells like. (Also, you're correct that I generally don't like hard leather chypres...except for vintage Bandit. I find vintage Bandit very balanced and relaxing with its verdant green, vegetal bitterness. It's one of my top 3 favorite fragrances of all time).

    As for the 1986 reissue of Coty Chypre, I know what you mean. So many people smelling that and thinking they are smelling the "legendary" Coty Chypre, but really it has no relation to the original and it's hard to know which version people are talking about. With that said, I do find it pleasant-smelling in its own right.

    My crown bottle of Coty Chypre is a bit different than a very old pure parfum I used to have (came in a hinged metal case). That old parfum began with a bare bergamot, but my early 60s PDT starts with a hint of floral then segues into the deeper, dank basenotes, which are quite complex with oakmoss being only a part. It's very much like an earlier Coty Chypre that passed through my hands with the round, turquoise & gold sticker label. I don't absolutely LOVE it - most pre-1940s perfumes don't really grab me, to be honest - and if I had to choose one to wear, I would generally pick the more '70s smelling reissue of Coty Chypre from 1986.
    Last edited by tourmaline; 2nd March 2021 at 07:30 AM.

  24. #84
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    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by tourmaline View Post
    There might be a little IsoBQ in Imprevu but I don't sense any of that quality which hard leather chypres have and my Haarman and Reimer guide also doesn't note any "leather" like they generally do when IsoBQ is present in a fragrance. On the other hand, I have never smelled IsoBQ in isolation. So who am I to say if it's present or not? lol. I have always assumed that IsoBQ is a harsh, slightly gasoline-ish or "used motor oil" type of smell, but then again maybe it is subtly sweet and rubbery like the "leather" in Knize 10 and Tabac Blond. I'm not certain.

    I have a collection of aromachemicals I've been curious enough about to order, like various aldehydes, undecalactone, isobornyl acetate, oakmoss E.O.s., etc. I think I probably should order a vial of IsoBQ to know once and for all what it smells like. (Also, you're correct that I generally don't like hard leather chypres...except for vintage Bandit. I find vintage Bandit very balanced and relaxing with its verdant green, vegetal bitterness. It's one of my top 3 favorite fragrances of all time).
    I do not associate IBQ with a “harsh, slightly gasoline-ish or used motor oil type of smell” although it may certainly play a role in fragrances with this profile. Nor is IBQ defined in my mind by the oily tanned leather of Knize 10 ( which has a slight petrol note at the start for me) or the smoky leather of Miss Balmain. These scents contain it, as does vintage Nuit de Noel and Tabac Blond as well as the vintage Mousse de Saxe and Cuir de Russie bases, but again just as one component among many. I think castoreum, birch tar, and other ingredients play a bigger role in creating these dirtier, more tannic or terpenic leather accords.

    IBQ straight up is described as “woody-earthy-mossy, slightly spicy odor somewhat resembling oakmoss” ( Arctander) and “earthy rooty vetivert moss animalic damp” (Perfumer’s World). It veers green to me more than truly leathery. You may like IBQ more than you think because it is positively showcased in vintage Bandit, which I also adore.

    Have fun sniffing the perfume ingredients. It can be a very interesting experience.

  25. #85

    Default Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    I do not associate IBQ with a “harsh, slightly gasoline-ish or used motor oil type of smell” although it may certainly play a role in fragrances with this profile. Nor is IBQ defined in my mind by the oily tanned leather of Knize 10 ( which has a slight petrol note at the start for me) or the smoky leather of Miss Balmain. These scents contain it, as does vintage Nuit de Noel and Tabac Blond as well as the vintage Mousse de Saxe and Cuir de Russie bases, but again just as one component among many. I think castoreum, birch tar, and other ingredients play a bigger role in creating these dirtier, more tannic or terpenic leather accords.

    IBQ straight up is described as “woody-earthy-mossy, slightly spicy odor somewhat resembling oakmoss” ( Arctander) and “earthy rooty vetivert moss animalic damp” (Perfumer’s World). It veers green to me more than truly leathery. You may like IBQ more than you think because it is positively showcased in vintage Bandit, which I also adore.

    Have fun sniffing the perfume ingredients. It can be a very interesting experience.
    Thanks for your insight, I'm getting more and more tempted to buy of vial of it all the time. I'm sure it will be a revelation to finally smell it in isolation.




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