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  1. #61
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Paradeiserl View Post
    Gave away to a very good female friend a few months ago:

    An unopened, original sealed flacon of Guerlain's Parfum Vol de Nuit
    That certainly sounds nice of you! She must be happy with that.

    I've always said a shoe box full of twenty dollar bills makes a great gift, but that Vol de Nuit would be right up there.

  2. #62
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I agree with Brooks that LIDG is better than LIDGE, although it's off topic because it doesn't smell vintage-y enough.
    Then I won't belabor it. Aside from their relative youth, they both look to be more gourmand-ish than I generally like. I think I might spring for some gold-cap Héritage EDT, though.

  3. #63

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    Then I won't belabor it. Aside from their relative youth, they both look to be more gourmand-ish than I generally like. I think I might spring for some gold-cap Héritage EDT, though.
    Bavard isn't wrong about the LIDGs not feeling particularly vintage-y (despite vintage bottles being prized for both), though they're still fairly different from the stuff being released today and do, to an extent, mark the last time Guerlain really felt somewhat ahead of the curve in terms of trends.

    LIDG, at least, feels like it's carrying the Guerlain DNA forward. It is both a predecessor of the Polge Dior Homme as well as a more classic Guerlain interpretation of the fruity masculine that came into its own in the 00s, with a cacao note instead of the more common tobacco, and drydown that suggests Héritage, which is its only real gesture back towards the classic Guerlain style. It's certainly not out of place in 2020, though today it'd be released as a brand "exclusive" rather than as a mass-market thing (and it's still much more sophisticated than the bulk of fancypants exclusives that get released today, by Guerlain or other houses).

    LIDGE feels more disconnected from the Guerlain trajectory, though it's easy to see why it caught on; it's a full-on syrupy gourmand that could easily be enjoyed by the same folks who like Mugler Pure Malt. I'm not really a fan, and I don't think it feels very Guerlain-y at all.

    Vintage Héritage is so rich, and is a pretty decadent and opulent concoction in its own right. An all-timer to be sure. It's kind of the Guerlain interpretation of Zino Davidoff, though it's reinvented as a rich, woody-spicy scent that teased the wave of gourmands that crested somewhere in the last decade. I thought I was in love with it, but it turned out I only really truly loved facets of it that I've been happier to seek out in more focused forms elsewhere.

    Which reminds me, I do need to try Coriolan, which few really seem to love.

  4. #64
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    LIDG…is both a predecessor of the Polge Dior Homme as well as a more classic Guerlain interpretation of the fruity masculine that came into its own in the 00s, with a cacao note instead of the more common tobacco…
    …all of which is why it doesn’t appeal to me on paper.

    Which reminds me, I do need to try Coriolan, which few really seem to love.
    I am amongst them. I imagine you’ll be trying it sooner rather than later.

  5. #65

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    …all of which is why it doesn’t appeal to me on paper.
    Probably not your thing.

    The fruity/boozy/dirty masculine that came into its own during the 2000-2010 period (but has plenty of precedent in the 90s) is one of my favorite subgenres, so L'Instant EDT, which isn't dirty enough to be part of that but still exists adjacent to it, works pretty well for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    I am amongst them. I imagine you’ll be trying it sooner rather than later.
    I'm not in a rush. It's supposedly in the Jazz/Pasha vein, and I can't envision Coriolan taking Pasha de Cartier's place in my heart.

  6. #66
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Ah, the vintage Guerlains! So many glories to choose from. If no other perfume houses existed or somehow crumbled away, I think we'd still have pretty much all we need. These fragrances in their vintage versions are perfect examples of intelligently composed, emotionally involving works of perfumery that evolve slowly over time and require a certain amount of investment from the wearer.

    My cupboards are bulging, and there are some I hardly wear, but somehow I can't let them go. (That said, I did recently relinquish my grip on a 125ml Baccarat bottle of LHB extrait. There was no way I would have got through all that.)

    I started out with vintage Mitsouko before progressing to Vol de Nuit and L'Heure Bleue, making a nuisance of myself at carefully selected perfume counters and spacing out my visits so as not to rile the SAs. One thing I didn't 'get' at the outset was civet: Shalimar, Jicky and Mouchoir de Monsieur were disturbing and indigestible, redolent of curdled milk and soiled nappies. At some point they clicked, however, and now Mouchoir de Monsieur is the closest thing I have to a signature fragrance. I have a good stock of vintage (the square 200ml flacons de voyage and bee-bottle sprays), which is richer and smoother than current, though also like the latter for its sparkling lavender. In a similar way the current EdT of Mitsouko is beautifully chypré and has much to recommend it, even if I sometimes hanker after the burnished, glowing effect of vintage. As others have mentioned, the PdT is stunning in its depth and intensity - that is to say, it's near nuclear in reach. One that isn't talked about much is Ode: well-preserved examples are almost Dior-like in their fresh floral profile, very pretty and just lovely.

    Apart from MdM and Habit Rouge, I've never really got on with the masculines. They're excellent, just not for me. Vetiver, Coriolan - meh. Heritage is occasionally enjoyable for its velvet opulence but the ambrette bothers me. I'd rather wear Mitsouko than Derby, though I'm currently using an old Derby soap that smells reassuringly of Cusson's Imperial Leather. LIDG is a well-made and interesting EdT that sometimes gets an outing, but otherwise the less said about the rest of the current masculine line-up the better.

  7. #67
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by saminlondon View Post
    Ah, the vintage Guerlains! So many glories to choose from. If no other perfume houses existed or somehow crumbled away, I think we'd still have pretty much all we need. These fragrances in their vintage versions are perfect examples of intelligently composed, emotionally involving works of perfumery that evolve slowly over time and require a certain amount of investment from the wearer.

    My cupboards are bulging, and there are some I hardly wear, but somehow I can't let them go. (That said, I did recently relinquish my grip on a 125ml Baccarat bottle of LHB extrait. There was no way I would have got through all that.)

    I started out with vintage Mitsouko before progressing to Vol de Nuit and L'Heure Bleue, making a nuisance of myself at carefully selected perfume counters and spacing out my visits so as not to rile the SAs. One thing I didn't 'get' at the outset was civet: Shalimar, Jicky and Mouchoir de Monsieur were disturbing and indigestible, redolent of curdled milk and soiled nappies. At some point they clicked, however, and now Mouchoir de Monsieur is the closest thing I have to a signature fragrance. I have a good stock of vintage (the square 200ml flacons de voyage and bee-bottle sprays), which is richer and smoother than current, though also like the latter for its sparkling lavender. In a similar way the current EdT of Mitsouko is beautifully chypré and has much to recommend it, even if I sometimes hanker after the burnished, glowing effect of vintage. As others have mentioned, the PdT is stunning in its depth and intensity - that is to say, it's near nuclear in reach. One that isn't talked about much is Ode: well-preserved examples are almost Dior-like in their fresh floral profile, very pretty and just lovely.

    Apart from MdM and Habit Rouge, I've never really got on with the masculines. They're excellent, just not for me. Vetiver, Coriolan - meh. Heritage is occasionally enjoyable for its velvet opulence but the ambrette bothers me. I'd rather wear Mitsouko than Derby, though I'm currently using an old Derby soap that smells reassuringly of Cusson's Imperial Leather. LIDG is a well-made and interesting EdT that sometimes gets an outing, but otherwise the less said about the rest of the current masculine line-up the better.
    I mentioned Salim, but it was actually you that I had in mind on basenoters big on Guerlain's...
    Currently wearing: Cedrat Boise by Mancera

  8. #68
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by roro View Post
    It's been a while, and I may find I've warmed to Mitsouko. I'll try to come to it with an open mind and see what happens.

    This is an example of the ribbed bottles I mentioned, in case anyone was wondering. Batch code dates this one to 1987.

    Those bottles are sweet. Ribbed bottles generally tend to catch the eye, I think.

  9. #69

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    Completely. It smells consistently amazing and my wife is now a total Mitsouko-head. Despite the confusing info about where it was shipping from, it came from Morocco. Seller did themselves a disservice with the listing, because it could have sold for way more. It did take a long time to arrive, but it was worth the wait. I would buy from them again if I didn't mind getting the bottle months later.
    Hey that's fortunate I'm glad it worked out. How old is the bottle did it still have that sticker on the bottom? Baccarat or HP?

  10. #70
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    Those bottles are sweet. Ribbed bottles generally tend to catch the eye, I think.
    I agree, they are eye-catching. The little "twist" near the bottom of these bottles is an interesting design detail. Even the 8ml parfum sprays have that twist.





    I wore Jicky extrait yesterday and really enjoyed it. That and Shalimar are at the top of my list as it currently stands.

    The ones I've tried:

    Mitsouko
    Vol de Nuit
    Samsara
    Chamade
    Nahema
    Vetiver
    Habit Rouge
    Heritage
    L'Heure Bleue
    Jicky
    Shalimar

    Pretty sure that's it.

  11. #71
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by GoldWineMemories View Post
    Hey that's fortunate I'm glad it worked out. How old is the bottle did it still have that sticker on the bottom? Baccarat or HP?
    No sticker, but a bit of detective work based on the label design suggests 1980s. So, not deep vintage, but more than deep enough.

  12. #72

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    No sticker, but a bit of detective work based on the label design suggests 1980s. So, not deep vintage, but more than deep enough.
    Hey I've had 80's parfum and it is just as good as anything. If I remember correctly you got quite the deal too.

  13. #73
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by GoldWineMemories View Post
    Hey I've had 80's parfum and it is just as good as anything. If I remember correctly you got quite the deal too.
    About $300 for a sealed 4oz vintage parfum. Compare to $350/oz new at Neiman Marcus. By premium perfume standards, it was a steal.

  14. #74
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    I had the opportunity to buy a couple of the little 30 ml Philtre d'Amour spray vials back in 2012. I can't imagine where he got them, but some fellow had many of them on eBay and was selling them for only $50 a piece.

    A good BN friend of mine told me about them and recommended them to me, so I jumped at the chance to get them. They are rather hard to find now, but if you ever do, I highly recommend it....IF, you love citrus (lemon) that is.

    PdA was primarily marketed to women, and I would agree that it leans just a tad femme due to the light florals. But it is easily unisex, mainly because of its wonderful and long-lasting lemon in the top that tends to go on and on...especially on a warm summer day. Look at the notes and that's exactly what you smell...citrus, floral, green, herbal, a little myrrh, and patchouli in the base. It's soft and smooth and can be smelled on the breeze.
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  15. #75
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    I discovered another name that I haven't heard of: Rue de La Paix

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/RUE-DE-LA-P...wAAOSweqpeYsq1

    On the same seller account I saw a splash bottle of Eau de Verveine, another of which I want to try. A green citrusy aromatic which makes me think if it's comparable to Sous Le Vent.

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  16. #76
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    Then I won't belabor it. Aside from their relative youth, they both look to be more gourmand-ish than I generally like. I think I might spring for some gold-cap Héritage EDT, though.
    I didn't get a gourmand vibe with LIDGE, my nose concluded long ago that it was terrible.
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by roro View Post
    I agree, they are eye-catching. The little "twist" near the bottom of these bottles is an interesting design detail. Even the 8ml parfum sprays have that twist.





    I wore Jicky extrait yesterday and really enjoyed it. That and Shalimar are at the top of my list as it currently stands.

    The ones I've tried:

    Mitsouko
    Vol de Nuit
    Samsara
    Chamade
    Nahema
    Vetiver
    Habit Rouge
    Heritage
    L'Heure Bleue
    Jicky
    Shalimar

    Pretty sure that's it.
    Sous Le Vent and Vega both are worth the sniffing experience.
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  18. #78
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Sous Le Vent and Vega both are worth the sniffing experience.
    Short of ordering decants, I doubt I'll get the chance. Sous Le Vent seems like the more interesting of the two.
    Are you familiar with Un Homme by Charles Jourdan? On F (that other site), a number of people have indicated that Sous Le Vent reminds them of Un Homme.

  19. #79
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    I discovered another name that I haven't heard of: Rue de La Paix

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/RUE-DE-LA-P...wAAOSweqpeYsq1

    On the same seller account I saw a splash bottle of Eau de Verveine, another of which I want to try. A green citrusy aromatic which makes me think if it's comparable to Sous Le Vent.

    I have purchased scents from this seller before and he's the real deal. (I think he may be on BN as well.)
    Currently wearing: Eau d'Hermès by Hermès

  20. #80
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by roro View Post
    Short of ordering decants, I doubt I'll get the chance. Sous Le Vent seems like the more interesting of the two.
    Are you familiar with Un Homme by Charles Jourdan? On F (that other site), a number of people have indicated that Sous Le Vent reminds them of Un Homme.
    Not familiar with that one. Given it's Sous Le Vent's rarity I'm open to something that would bring the same fulfillment.
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  21. #81
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Starblind View Post
    I have purchased scents from this seller before and he's the real deal. (I think he may be on BN as well.)
    I've heard good things about him and his BN user name is El Discipulo
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/475...tles-for-sale?
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  22. #82

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Due the generosity of Basenoters, I've been provided samples of Derby, past and present, and Coriolan. I'll give these the attention and time they deserve and report back.

    As of right now, I have a spritz of Derby past on one hand and Derby present on the other. I'll give them separate wearings. Their siblings, but very different; the current lacks the dark green emphasis of the vintage.

    In fact, I sniffed Derby vintage and had an instant flash of recognition: it smells 80-90% similar to the splendid Nicolaï New York Intense (dark greenness and all). That resemblance doesn't really exist between the current Derby and NYI. Yet more evidence that Nicolaï really is the rightful heir to the Guerlain legacy?

  23. #83
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    I miss the version from the early 1970s!

    Of the Guerlain "Wasser-Spielen" produced today, I would never buy a single one of them again! grrrr
    Last edited by Paradeiserl; 10th April 2020 at 06:18 PM.
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  24. #84
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    I sniffed Derby vintage and had an instant flash of recognition: it smells 80-90% similar to the splendid Nicolaï New York Intense (dark greenness and all).
    That sounds about right, based on my limited exposure. A FB of the Nicolaï is on my “to buy” list.

  25. #85

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    That sounds about right, based on my limited exposure. A FB of the Nicolaï is on my “to buy” list.
    Glad my nose isn't tricking me.

    Given the prices for a bottle of vintage Derby, I'm glad there's a contemporary successor (the Nicolaï ain't cheap, but it's not vintage Derby expensive).

  26. #86
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    Given the prices for a bottle of vintage Derby, I'm glad there's a contemporary successor (the Nicolaï ain't cheap, but it's not vintage Derby expensive).
    Exactly my thoughts. Even if a side-by-side reveals many differences, it’s hard for me to imagine loving one and being disappointed in the other.

  27. #87

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Paradeiserl View Post
    Of the Guerlain "Wasser-Spielen" produced today, I would never buy a single one of them again! grrrr
    I don't feel much ire towards Wasser, who has been handed a very difficult job, but Guerlain is clearly a very different house from what it was. He seems to be doing his best to keep the classics alive under LVMH's ownership.

    I've heard very good things about Wasser's Lui from people I trust. I haven't gotten around to sampling it because I haven't really been in the mood, but it does sound interesting.

  28. #88
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    I don't feel much ire towards Wasser, who has been handed a very difficult job, but Guerlain is clearly a very different house from what it was. He seems to be doing his best to keep the classics alive under LVMH's ownership.

    I've heard very good things about Wasser's Lui from people I trust. I haven't gotten around to sampling it because I haven't really been in the mood, but it does sound interesting.
    There were a few good offerings that I admire from Wasser's early tenure at Guerlain - one of them would be Iris Ganache.
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  29. #89

    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Speaking of vintage Guerlain....Heritage. I've got a silver capped bottle (EdT) from a few years back and totally satisfied with it. Is the vintage (gold cap, I think) enough of a difference to be worth my time and effort to seek out?
    Currently wearing: Derby by Guerlain

  30. #90
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    Default Re: Vintage Guerlain

    Hello all. Can anyone offer insight into Nahema parfum as to whether or not there are years to avoid? Does the 2002 extrait still smell as it should? Someone gave me notes on it, but I can't seem to locate the thread.




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