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  1. #1531

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Deleted.

  2. #1532

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Quote Originally Posted by FragSyndrome View Post
    If you enjoyed SLA, EO1 is a no-brainer, you'll love it. I've sampled SLA and it's deeply enjoyable but a bit more challenging and 'raw' than EO1 PP.

    I would suggest considering the following: Ensar is using centennial Tonkin musk in this batch of Crime and Punishment which he says he couldn't even put a slice into the bottle because the pod disintegrated. This might be a once in a lifetime opportunity to get that (extinct?) Tonkin musk in a bottle; once it's gone there will be no more. This is probably going to be the best version of C&P. At least that's my theory.

    Ensar will make future batches of EO1 I can almost guarantee it. It's probably the one you'll like the most and I think most people on this thread will agree that EO1 is one of his best works.

    Can't commend on EO Red; I haven't tried it.

    If I were you, I'd stretch your budget and get both EO1 and C&P.

    This is very helpful. Thank you sooooo much for your insights. Appreciate it.

  3. #1533

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    I just purchased a bottle of the Assam #1. I wept when I placed that order. I thought about going for Crime and Punishment as well, but I can’t. It’s out of my range. I just can’t pull myself to spend $1200 in one go on blind buys. These guys won’t give us any rest. Bortnikoff now is about to release his Oud Cologne which I know I won’t be able to resist getting, sigh.

  4. #1534
    Dependent Mak-7's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Its a bit of struggle, i am myself looking at C&P, Xerjoff released Symphonium, Amouage has 2 new perfumes, Auphorie released flanker, areej is planning essence de elixir of some sort, al shareef maybe will finally release his 1st child, no news from rasei, but he has his last d'agar.

    Sigh, could i win at least 100k in lottery to cover some of my expenses

  5. #1535

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Notes from the Underground pre order 30mL pure parfum $1500 lol

  6. #1536

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    good god
    Currently wearing: Anarkali Attar by Tabacora

  7. #1537
    New Member publius's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Quote Originally Posted by bl00drunzcold View Post
    Notes from the Underground pre order 30mL pure parfum $1500 lol
    how many bottles are you getting?

  8. #1538
    Dependent Mak-7's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    It is in line with price for 30ml of private blend.
    His phrase: never done before infusion of musk and oud - killed me.
    Would be nice to try it, but $50 for 1 ml is tough

  9. #1539

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Quote Originally Posted by publius View Post
    how many bottles are you getting?
    Between 0 and 0. I haven’t been that impressed with the things I’ve bought from Ensar. Plus $1500 for a bottle of perfume is dumb to me.

  10. #1540

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    If someone splits it i suppose i will try 3 or 5ml, but only because it sounds like there is more oud involved. The musk exploration lately hasnt left me impressed. Tibetan Musk and Private Blend sadly arent really my jam.
    Currently wearing: Anarkali Attar by Tabacora

  11. #1541

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    This is the first one from his newer price point that I’d really love a bottle of but I just can’t do it!

    If I were a rich man I suppose I probably would
    Currently wearing: Tigerlust by Ensar Oud

  12. #1542

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Tonkin musk tinctures on their own, even at 1%, can sell for hundreds of dollars (I litterally think there’s one on the forums for that price right now). The amount of Tonkin musk in here is significantly higher than that. Additionally, 30% of the volume is an LTD Vietnamese Oud. That’s 3 grams of an Oud on caliber with Kyara LTD, Royal Gullam, and Nha Trang LTD, which sell for thousands on their own.

    How much value do you think there is An ultra luxury 3K Chypre? $50 worth of raw materials (the only expensive material I can think of in there is Jasmine absolute). Maybe $75 when you include the gaudy gold flakes? And what about The Night? $1200 for plantation Oud mixed with ambroxan and vanillin is certainly an overpriced venture.

    This is a completely different beast. Yes it’s expensive, but the raw material value is there. It’s not for spraying liberally every day. It’s a perfume to be sprayed once on your forearm, for special occasions, meditations, etc.

    TLDR Notes from Underground is expensive, but, in my opinion, the value is there, unlike other expensive fragrances on the market.
    Current Favorites: Santal Galore (Areej le Dore), Kurokami (Di Ser), Sayat Nova (Bortnikoff)

  13. #1543

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    I really dislike and am tired of the “this is a steal because the ingredients inside cost sooo much money” argument. I have never in my life heard a painter say “you should buy my painting because the paint is worth so much money”. None of that matters if the ultimate result is not something that can stand on its own as a whole composition. And honestly, when I see creators go overboard on such arguments, it leads me to believe that they themselves don’t think much of their composition as a whole. I also don’t like the idea of having to put another brand down to make this one look better. Especially when that other brand pumps out really nice whole creations, but I will leave it at that
    . It’s a turnoff for sure.

  14. #1544

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Not saying it’s a steal. It’s expensive because of what goes into it. Just voicing my opinion that the price is justified. At the end of the day, Ensar is a luxury Oud dealer, who sources rare, precious materials.
    Current Favorites: Santal Galore (Areej le Dore), Kurokami (Di Ser), Sayat Nova (Bortnikoff)

  15. #1545

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Quote Originally Posted by litworth View Post
    I really dislike and am tired of the “this is a steal because the ingredients inside cost sooo much money” argument. I have never in my life heard a painter say “you should buy my painting because the paint is worth so much money”. None of that matters if the ultimate result is not something that can stand on its own as a whole composition. And honestly, when I see creators go overboard on such arguments, it leads me to believe that they themselves don’t think much of their composition as a whole. I also don’t like the idea of having to put another brand down to make this one look better. Especially when that other brand pumps out really nice whole creations, but I will leave it at that
    . It’s a turnoff for sure.
    Interesting reason, can't say i disagree with you on that. But I think Ensar just trying to emphasize how hard and rare to source some of the material he uses, I think most people who drop $1500 for 30ml isn't looking for value, they get it probably for collectability purpose.

    Personally, I'm a huge fan of the Crime & Punishment, love the original in both PP and EDP, the composition is simply stunning and i enjoy wearing it very much. I can only hope this newer batch is going to be just as good if not better. Even the OG in 50ml was $790, not exactly cheap by any mean either. I don't think there's anything outside of Ensar Oud out there that smells anything like it. Can't wait to compare them.

  16. #1546

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Quote Originally Posted by JoniBorn View Post
    Tonkin musk tinctures on their own, even at 1%, can sell for hundreds of dollars (I litterally think there’s one on the forums for that price right now). The amount of Tonkin musk in here is significantly higher than that. Additionally, 30% of the volume is an LTD Vietnamese Oud. That’s 3 grams of an Oud on caliber with Kyara LTD, Royal Gullam, and Nha Trang LTD, which sell for thousands on their own.

    How much value do you think there is An ultra luxury 3K Chypre? $50 worth of raw materials (the only expensive material I can think of in there is Jasmine absolute). Maybe $75 when you include the gaudy gold flakes? And what about The Night? $1200 for plantation Oud mixed with ambroxan and vanillin is certainly an overpriced venture.

    This is a completely different beast. Yes it’s expensive, but the raw material value is there. It’s not for spraying liberally every day. It’s a perfume to be sprayed once on your forearm, for special occasions, meditations, etc.

    TLDR Notes from Underground is expensive, but, in my opinion, the value is there, unlike other expensive fragrances on the market.
    Different directions comparing Roja and Frederic Malle with Ensar. The former are trained perfumers (or using trained perfumers), that make use of various naturals and yes, synthetics, to create a work of art from an olfactory point of view, many times from nothing. Ensar lacks perfume skills, his blending is mediocre at best and relies on high-quality raw materials to make up for it. I believe it is a far greater achievement, from an artistic point of view, to create a composition that comes together using "cheap" materials, than to create a good composition using the most expensive ingredients. Many of these perfumers are able to create accords that come very close to the natural smell using only synthetics. That's art, that's perfumery. You are paying for that. Ensar is a distiller. And a damn good one. I also like him as a person. Still, that doesn't make him a perfumer, and nowhere near the level of Roja or Dominique Ropion. So why compare them in the first place? I own perfumes and oils from Ensar and love them for their raw character. The unpolished, natural smell. And I own compositions created by first-class perfumers like Sheldrake, Duchaufour, Ropion, and love them for their outstanding complexity and refinement. I love all perfume, and all compositions have their place. You want to pay for the raw materials, go for Ensar. Myself, I mostly buy perfume based on what my nose dictates, rather than what goes inside. Sue the ingredients are an important factor, but I want them to be used properly, not just blended together for the sake of blending, and charging 1500k for 30ml just because of the scarcity of the ingredients. I want the whole orchestra, the entire story.

  17. #1547
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    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    I think for anyone that hasn’t smelled any of the newest releases he’s done you can’t really say Ensar doesn’t know what he’s doing. I’m sure in the beginning you could say they were raw or unrefined but make no mistake about it, seasoned noses and well respected reviewers like Kafkasque has waxed poetic FOR PAGES about how amazing Eo1/SLA is along with other perfumes of his including EO2.

    If it’s not for you it’s not for you but that doesn’t mean there isn’t skill involved. I see this come up a lot in regards to natural materials. Who out is there is creating entirely natural perfumes from raw materials and not just isolates with aromachemicals ferived from natural materials? There’s a huge difference here. Ensar has been known in the Attar world for awhile more for making brilliant Attars and now he’s making brilliant perfumes but if you haven’t smelled his progression how can you honestly comment on it?

    It’s like people saying Russian Adam is a shit perfumer because they smelled one raw styled perfume from his early collections so they disregard all the new beautifully blended compositions he’s creating now.

    Also the point of Ensar’s perfumery just like Taha is not to create some well blended perfume devoid of any distinguishing character but rather to highlight the material themselves for folks who love said materials.

    If you guys were criticizing the actual perfumes in question it would make sense but everyone is just complaining about price and saying Ensar doesn’t know what he’s doing but no one is actually providing examples for any kind of conversation to take place outside of confirmation bias.


    How bout this, buy 8 grams of an Oriscent oil and put it in a spray bottle and add perfumers alcohol. Would you then criticize the price of the oil or the price of the perfume?
    Currently wearing: Lustre by Hiram Green

  18. #1548

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    So, this was my last major house on my list that I hadn't got to yet. I was kept away mainly due to cost but also because there was just so much else to get to.

    I finally got around to it and ordered some stuff from the website, was gifted with some samples in the order, and then ordered several decants from strife. I feel like I got a pretty good sampling as I got some materials, attars, oud oils, and perfumes, including some of the really high end stuff (Private Blend). I loved a few things (EO Green), like many others, and admired them all for their quality. To my sophomoric nose, we are talking about the furthest reaches in ingredient quality. I also think that Ensar has a great talent for blending these precious ingredients, in that he has a very good sense of proportion and what things smell good when put together. I'm not sure that I detect much intentionality or authorship beyond that, but still there is something to be said for simply putting good smelling things together. Ensar claims that one spray of some of these perfumes is a jolt to you - it wakes you up, makes you uncomfortable even, and makes you reconsider what it is a fragrance is supposed to do. In that, I think he very much succeeds.

    I guess my one hot take is that at the upper price ranges here, you are paying for something other than the smell you get. Perhaps you appreciate the history of the ingredients, or their rarity, or how hard they are source. Which to me is a perfectly legitimate thing to value. But I'm not sure that if smell alone is your guide, the $ are always worth it here. Unless money is no object, of course. If it were no object for me, I'd have already pre-ordered my bottle of Notes from Underground. But, as someone who sticks to a budget, I have to look at opportunity costs, the cost of Notes is the equivalent of:
    -3ml of Aurum D'Angkhor from Sultan Pasha ($550)
    -a 30ml bottle of Ghaliya Rosarie from Elixir Attar ($350)
    -a vintage bottle of Guerlain Samsara containing a 30% concentration of Mysore sandalwood ($200-$249)
    -plus a subscription to Tier 1 of Mellifluence's quarterly attar service (6 1ml attars for $200)

    And then you are still sitting on enough (or nearly enough) money leftover to get whatever Russian Adam or Bogue or Dixit and Zak or whoever release next!

  19. #1549

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    I like what Ensar is doing lately, what he is bringing to the table and his new path. I feel tempted by Notes from Underground. I have no problem with his prices. If there is one 'Qaboos perfume' to purchase, this one should be. But the above post about Roja and, most especially, The Night's ingredients and blend ('oud + ambroxan + vanillin') is reductive, false and out of place. Plus, it goes against Ensar himself.

    I understand the fan era and all that new young crowd polarizing almost everything nowadays, 'with me or against me', เ la Napoleon; but some people should think twice before they talk, and pontificate, about perfumers like Ropion, blends, ingredients, brands and the entire perfumery industry when they are around for no more than 1, 2 or at most 3 years and their experience is basically artisanal perfumery plus Mitsouko and Shalimar.

    Aren't you all tired of this?

    Artisanal perfumery, which always existed and I do love, currently shines due to IFRA.

    My best wishes for the brand.

  20. #1550
    Dependent Mak-7's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Quote Originally Posted by Castingshadows View Post
    How bout this, buy 8 grams of an Oriscent oil and put it in a spray bottle and add perfumers alcohol. Would you then criticize the price of the oil or the price of the perfume?
    I would criticize for price of oil, because it is not a perfume.

    Secondly, Ensar always has sales, so prices he posts are marked up prices in the first places.

    To be honest, speaking about myself, i still want to discover something from Ensar that would suit my tastes, i agree he has good materials, and he improved blending from before, but he is still not there. That's why price is mentioned. Kafkesque can write odes as much as she wants, but its a little silly to say that if she writes some - its true. Alot of people here have on par nose, tenure and knowledge of perfumery as she does. Also, not everyone is starstruck when ensar is said, and origin of material is mentioned.

    Bentley uses quite a few parts you can find on VW, which are not bad parts, but the way it was put together and calibrated, makes it a bentley.
    To create something amazing, not only custom parts are needed...

  21. #1551

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Quote Originally Posted by Sinkinggrade View Post
    I understand the fan era and all that new young crowd polarizing almost everything nowadays, 'with me or against me', เ la Napoleon; .
    I agree that this is a problem generally, but is this what is going on here? I would say a fair characterization of the criticism is:
    1. Ensar's ingredients are second to none, out of this world,
    and
    2. While Ensar may not be Francois Coty, he's a talented perfumer and extremely adept at highlighting his ingredients,
    but
    3. Even given 1 and 2, if you are going strictly by the literal smell test, the perfume is not worth the prices being charged.

    It's not that the perfume is bad (it's likely amazing) and it's not that it isn't worth a lot of money (it surely is). Just not THAT much. I mean, at $1,500 for 30ml you are talking about one of the most expensive perfumes in the history of perfumery. Does anyone think it's going to be the greatest smelling perfume of all time? If not, then what I'm suggesting is you are paying for something other than the smell. (Which is fine if that's what you wanna do!)

    Okay, I'll stop beating this horse.

  22. #1552

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Did anybody get to try the new EO1 Assam yet? There's practically zero feedback on it so far.

  23. #1553

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    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Quote Originally Posted by Xcaliber6685 View Post
    Did anybody get to try the new EO1 Assam yet? There's practically zero feedback on it so far.
    Yes I got mine today and think fans of EO1 will be super happy with it. To me it's like a darker rougher Homeros if Homeros wears a 3 piece suit to the office this is the leather jacket at a smoky dive bar.

  24. #1554

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Quote Originally Posted by brylaney View Post
    Yes I got mine today and think fans of EO1 will be super happy with it. To me it's like a darker rougher Homeros if Homeros wears a 3 piece suit to the office this is the leather jacket at a smoky dive bar.
    how does it compare to the Manipur or the original? wow...even smokier than Homeros? nice lol

  25. #1555

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    I have a bottle in route. Smokey dive bar doesn’t sound great to me, but I will hold out hope.

  26. #1556

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    So, leaving his perfumes aside for a bit,

    I'm wearing Chugoku Naya again from a sample vial, and what a gorgeous oil this is. I can't believe this is Hindi. Wow. Very creamy-milky, hints of nuts and vanilla, with the Hindi leather-barny profile. Very good.

    Did anyone try Maroke Ceylon? It's on sale and was thinking to get 2 grams, as I have no Sri Lankan oils in my collection.
    Also, I really like Oud Royale 2004, but I see they have pulled it off the site.

  27. #1557

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Quote Originally Posted by brylaney View Post
    Yes I got mine today and think fans of EO1 will be super happy with it. To me it's like a darker rougher Homeros if Homeros wears a 3 piece suit to the office this is the leather jacket at a smoky dive bar.
    Wow, I found Homeros to be MUCH more aggressive, smoky and masculine than the OG EO1 and even more compared to Manipur edition which was borderline too refined for EO1 in my humble opinion. If Assam is MORE rugged, smoky and masculine than Homeros, I would find it a bit unfortunate. Maybe you have to shell out the big bucks for Oud Royale to get that refined EO1 experience now... makes me glad I have 5ml of the OG left.

    Maybe he’ll dial it back on next years version.

    Thanks for giving us an update, Bryant!
    Currently wearing: Tigerlust by Ensar Oud

  28. #1558

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Quote Originally Posted by Proust_Madeleine View Post
    Wow, I found Homeros to be MUCH more aggressive, smoky and masculine than the OG EO1 and even more compared to Manipur edition which was borderline too refined for EO1 in my humble opinion. If Assam is MORE rugged, smoky and masculine than Homeros, I would find it a bit unfortunate. Maybe you have to shell out the big bucks for Oud Royale to get that refined EO1 experience now... makes me glad I have 5ml of the OG left.

    Maybe he’ll dial it back on next years version.

    Thanks for giving us an update, Bryant!
    Wearing E01 Assam on one arm and Homeros on the other. Both arrived just yesterday... so these are first impressions. Not sure I'd agree with some of the words used to distinguish the two. It depends on what you mean by agressive.

    Homeros projects more, but with a brighter glow. In that sense, some might call it the more "aggressive." There's a lot going on here (and I'm dwelling on a somewhat salty-sweet vegetable note at the moment... but it's got balsamic hints and, at on-and-off-moments, is swirling with spice, green fields, and wild flowers. Geez.

    E01 Assam is far more oud-forward (after an initial gorgeous ambergris blast that, by the way, feels much more like one of his late musk acquisitions on paper/clothing—though unlisted in the notes—but this facet bows quickly to the oud/leather quickly on skin). Biker bar smokey? I'm not necessarily getting that. The darker vibe (yes, darker than Homeros) is certainly apparent and I really like this so far. There is a pungent, peaty earthiness that reminds me of the seasoned barrels and aromas of wine cellars. No, not you home cellar... but big dusty underground caverns of historical vinters where the floor holds a century of accumulated tannic spill. Don't worry... not the day-after wine dregs; this is a hum that is oh-so-smooth, woody, settled. It feels aged. I've been drawn to several of the smokey-damp Beaufort fragrances over the past few years and get a similar vibe from them, but ultimately find them a bit much to take (even intriguingly nauseating). EO1 Assam, on the other hand, is rich and calming. Haven't gotten to the florals yet (on either skin or paper), but some powdery, sweeter facets (leathery ones, I mean) are emerging on both.

    I've never tried the 'OG' EO1. So I can't comments on iterations or progression to the current release. Still, I wouldn't be fearful that this is overly rugged. As oud perfumes go, Assam is neither sharp nor edgy. Deep, dark, and polished? Oh yeah.

    These thoughts are premature. Both EO1 and Homeros will need to be worn a few times and allowed to fully progress before even beginning to understand them. (Plus... E01 feels like a different perfume on paper—and it's freaking me out!)
    Having Simultaneous Affairs with: Amouage Memoir Man, Epic Extrait (the femme version), Imitation Man, Overture Man, Tribute, Badr Al Badour, Opus XI • Puredistance M, Aenotus, Gold • Tauer L'Air, Lonesome Rider • Malle POAL • Knize Ten [Golden] • Parfums de Empire Le Cri de la Lumi่re, Azemour Les Orangers • L'Artisan Al Oudh, Traversee du Bosphore • TF Noir de Noir • Xerjoff Richwood, 1861 Renaissance, 1888 (Casamorati), Zafar • Serge Lutens MKK, Gris Clair, Fille en Aiguilles • H de Parfums 1740, Tub3 Animale, Fidelis • Abdes Salaam Tabac, Cafe Milano • Rogue Chypre Siam • Dusita Oud Infini Beaufort Lignum Vitae • MDCI Chypre Palatin • Nicolไi Oud Sublime, Patchouli Extreme, L'Eau Mixte • Dior Leather Oud, Patchouli Imperial • Chanel Sycomore • Guerlain Songe d'un Bois d'Ete, Oud Essentiel • Ensar Oud Tibetan Musk • Ormonde Jayne Nawab of Oudh Intensivo •Papillon Anubis • Bogue Maai •

  29. #1559

    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    Quote Originally Posted by FumeHood View Post
    Wearing E01 Assam on one arm and Homeros on the other. Both arrived just yesterday... so these are first impressions. Not sure I'd agree with some of the words used to distinguish the two. It depends on what you mean by agressive.

    Homeros projects more, but with a brighter glow. In that sense, some might call it the more "aggressive." There's a lot going on here (and I'm dwelling on a somewhat salty-sweet vegetable note at the moment... but it's got balsamic hints and, at on-and-off-moments, is swirling with spice, green fields, and wild flowers. Geez.

    E01 Assam is far more oud-forward (after an initial gorgeous ambergris blast that, by the way, feels much more like one of his late musk acquisitions on paper/clothing—though unlisted in the notes—but this facet bows quickly to the oud/leather quickly on skin). Biker bar smokey? I'm not necessarily getting that. The darker vibe (yes, darker than Homeros) is certainly apparent and I really like this so far. There is a pungent, peaty earthiness that reminds me of the seasoned barrels and aromas of wine cellars. No, not you home cellar... but big dusty underground caverns of historical vinters where the floor holds a century of accumulated tannic spill. Don't worry... not the day-after wine dregs; this is a hum that is oh-so-smooth, woody, settled. It feels aged. I've been drawn to several of the smokey-damp Beaufort fragrances over the past few years and get a similar vibe from them, but ultimately find them a bit much to take (even intriguingly nauseating). EO1 Assam, on the other hand, is rich and calming. Haven't gotten to the florals yet (on either skin or paper), but some powdery, sweeter facets (leathery ones, I mean) are emerging on both.

    I've never tried the 'OG' EO1. So I can't comments on iterations or progression to the current release. Still, I wouldn't be fearful that this is overly rugged. As oud perfumes go, Assam is neither sharp nor edgy. Deep, dark, and polished? Oh yeah.

    These thoughts are premature. Both EO1 and Homeros will need to be worn a few times and allowed to fully progress before even beginning to understand them. (Plus... E01 feels like a different perfume on paper—and it's freaking me out!)
    Beautiful description, how would you compare both to SLG?

  30. #1560

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    Default Re: All Things Ensar Oud

    I'll let it sit for a couple of days and go back to it and see how my thoughts change on it.




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