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  1. #31

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Eau Fringante-

    At the start this opens quite herbal and with an oily citrus. There’s also something vinegary. There is a sharpness that doesn’t really smell like vinegar, but it gives my nose the sensation of having sniffed a bottle.

    No large rubber for me in the opening but the middle brings up a persistent hint I could read as old-fashioned spatula, combined with a more minty herb coolness and humidity.
    The minty ness is working in my nose a little like camphor or menthol.
    Not getting florals, but really a body scent. This is more sweaty, post activity than the Cherry Blossom version.
    The base works towards a lightly earthy, dirty wood, maintaining the warmth but drying.

    Although this is not aggressive (pretty light wearing) and does not resemble Kouros, the cooling and sweaty man-body parts are giving me a bit of a flashback of that sampling. I don’t tend towards camphor or eucalyptus type sensations.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Knize Two by Knize

  2. #32

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    I think the Eau Frigante may have gone off, partly. I agree that it has bad moments in the early stages. I get anosmic to the bad note, which is why I think it can smell nice up close, but the bad note keeps coming back.

    My vote is fragrance deterioration, but I'm not 100% convinced. Maybe it's actually supposed to be kind of shocking like this (I don't think it is).

    About the part that smells good when I'm anosmic to the bad part, I get what I keep thinking is a nice vetiver note.

    The bad part might be going away entirely. I have had a bottle that rehabilitated itself, and get rid of a turned smell. I don't really understand how, even when I think about it for a while.

    When the off note isn't in the way, this is really nice. It has a beautiful oak moss. The off-ness, though, is a killer. It's faint and I can barely smell the nice oak moss (and maybe vetiver), so my natural inclination would be to reapply, but I'm feeling hesitant.

    Interesting about the rehabilitated bottle. I have two bottles of Indescret - same exact bottle but one slightly darker and with a weird smell especially up top. The mid and base show up similar to the other bottle and the weird bottle improved with “breathing”, like you would breath wine, but never got as good as my other bottle with the slightly lighter juice. Maybe I’ll air it more. If the off parts are smellled most strongly on open then perhaps airing would allow the more volatile stuff to dissipate.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Knize Two by Knize

  3. #33
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Interesting about the rehabilitated bottle. I have two bottles of Indescret - same exact bottle but one slightly darker and with a weird smell especially up top. The mid and base show up similar to the other bottle and the weird bottle improved with “breathing”, like you would breath wine, but never got as good as my other bottle with the slightly lighter juice. Maybe I’ll air it more. If the off parts are smellled most strongly on open then perhaps airing would allow the more volatile stuff to dissipate.
    That all makes sense, with a splash. I’m struggling more with how an off spray can fix itself. I suppose it's essentially the same, and that the bad smell gets into the head space and gets cycled out and replaced by clean air with enough sprays.
    Last edited by Bavard; 12th August 2020 at 10:53 PM.

  4. #34
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    EauFringante.jpg

    D'Orsay Eau Fringante (1969)

    Notes (from various sources)

    Top: bergamot, lemon, mandarine, petitgrain, basil, mint, "green notes"
    Heart: geranium, iris, jasmine, lily of the valley, clary sage
    Base: musk, tonka, patchouli, sandalwood, ambergris, civet

    This appeared newish on arrival, apparently unused and with a plastic nib to help seal the bottle's mouth. It's nonetheless quite possible that it's turned—one of the risks of sharing unworn fragrances, alas. I'm not sure whether it's truly gone off, or if diminished citrus top notes leave the vegetal funk of the opening herbs and the lily/geranium/sage heart combo unbalanced.

    Eau Fringante was advertised as "more than fresh":

    La Plus Que Fraiche.jpg

    …but it strikes me as anything but. Nobody would call the 1970s the heyday of Parfums d'Orsay, but it's hard to believe that what I've shared with you reflects the perfumer's intent. The final stage is actually nice, but nothing exceptional, so for me it hardly justifies the first several hours. Ah, well. Tomorrow is another day.
    Last edited by PStoller; 13th August 2020 at 12:38 AM.

  5. #35
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Eau Fringante 1969

    Hi all—

    There’s talk of this bottle being spoiled, but I am going to disagree on that. To me, it smells very hesperidic, fresh, and herbal. I don’t perceive any vinegar or any weird fetid turned smells. As PStoller noted, the ads for Eau Fringante say it is “plus que fraiche,” the more than fresh perfume, but he found its opening “anything but,” Bavard felt the opening notes were “shocking” and Dr. Tricia said “rough.” Eau Fringante is certainly sour and citrusy, with lots of bergamot on top and the tangy chalkiness of galbanum, but in its time, before the big turn to musky sweetness in fragrances, I don’t think Eau Fringante would have seemed odd to anyone.

    In fact, I think Eau Fringante may have been very much on trend in 1969. There’s an early YSL fragrance that I have never tried, but would like to, called Eau Libre that sounds very much like Eau Fringante. Elena Vosnaki has a good essay on Eau Libre, and the place of 1970’s colognes within the evolution of the genre here:

    https://www.fragrantica.com/news/The...ibre-6902.html

    PStoller posted the published notes from Parfumo (and who can say where they got them?) but I don’t get quite so much complexity in my sniffs of EF. Definitely a lot of bergamot and galbanum in the top (which is probably why I like it). The herbal notes are hard to pin down but I think I am getting more sage than basil. No clearly perceptible floral notes, and not much in the way of weightier basenotes, just some very nice, incense-y vintage (dry not creamy) sandalwood, isobutyl quinoline, and perhaps, a little more of that natural-smelling ambergris.

    Live Jazz, I am very interested in EF strongly suggesting rubber to you. I absolutely LOATHE rubber/latex notes and I am not running away from this. I am going to venture a guess that the galbanum may be suggesting rubber. It could be the IBQ too.

    So, to sum up, Eau Fringante is just fine with me. PStoller, you can send me the bottle (just kidding!)

  6. #36
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    I'm trying D'Orsay Toujours Fidèle. This is nice. (I also like the name.) I think it's fairly unique. I don't recall trying anything quite like it before. It's not surprising, but it is different. There's a spiciness to it, like hot cooking spices, and there's a leatheriness to it. It's quite good.

    I like how the sample was done - just enough for one wearing. I didn't use the sprayer, I took it off and dabbed the whole thing.

    The finest perfumes are crossing my mind as I wear this, including Diorling. It's that good. Or the early-version Bijan for Men that I'm in love with at the moment. This is good and getting better. I wish it were two times stronger. There's a heavenly note in here that hints at cola - I think it's just a rose with some sweetness. This is a perfect 10 type of fragrance based on my sampling. I looked on eBay, and it doesn't look like one I will be trying again. There have been several of these in this series.

  7. #37

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    D'Orsay Toujours Fidèle

    Oh, this is nice. Love the opening. It's fruity and warm with some snappy, soapy things in the background. Not thick and gooey. It has a dry-soft texture, velvety. It continues in a soapy-smooth-floral direction, starting to resemble something like Chanel no. 5 with those spare soapy aldehydes on a soft background.

    It has body and heft, though. Like Bavard, I do detect a suede-like leather bringing up the rear. Similar leather feel to what I remember in the more modern Cuir de Lancome, with less sweetening agents added in. A suede rucksack that's seen some use vs a luxury suede handbag. I think there's a sweet hay-like note (tonka?) in the background, too. And that d'Orsay skin-salt feeling again! Love that, and works wonders with the suede...it glows.

    I'm grasping for other references, but to Bavard's point, it's pretty unique in overall effect, though some components seem familiar. This one is fantastic.

    ~~

    Someone selling on Etsy posted this description, which is nice:

    Toujours Fidèle was launched in 1909, and continued to be a beloved perfume for many years, becoming on of D'Orsay's best selling fragrances.

    The design of the bottle has been attributed to Baccarat in 1912 and to Cristalleries de Nancy .. from 1909 and 1912. There appears to also have been a 1928 reissue by Baccarat with molded label, frosted stopper and gray patina. Many of these flacons did not bear the Baccarat mark, as was common at that time.

    The bulldog on the bottle cap symbolizes loyalty. Toujours Fidèle "always faithful" .. the name suggests romance. The "ever faithful" object of the name is man's best friend .. a dog .. a French bulldog or,.. perhaps .. a pug. The bottle is referred to as "pillow shaped " and it could resemble a pillow for a dog, or a doggie bed. It is thoroughly charming!

    There are no remaining fragrance notes to be found on the Internet or in my books. I believe that this was intended as a unisex fragrance, even though so many of D'Orsay's fragrances were designed for very dapper men! The structure could look something like this ..

    Top notes are Lemon, Mandarin, Orange Blossom, and Neroli
    Heart notes are Jasmine, Ylang Ylang, Honeysuckle, and Lilac
    Base notes are Cedar, Benzoin, Ambergris, Sandalwood, and Vetiver
    Note that the notes are just a guess by the poster, but seem plausible enough.

    Must say, I am obsessed with the pug bottle.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Vermeil for Men by Vermeil

  8. #38
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    C45975E0-FF69-4475-A004-5C94EE739BD4.jpg

    D’Orsay Toujours Fidèle

    Notes to follow: off to a late start today!

    ____

    I find it amusing to read Toujours Fidèle described as a floral. Not that there are no floral components, but it's predominantly fruity, albeit more of a berry liqueur than a fresh fruit scent. It's sweet, but with none of the toothache-inducing sweetness of modern fruity florals. It also has a mildly animalic aspect, a sly hint rather than an open invitation. Is that suede? I get suede less as a smell than a texture—a delicate glove suede, at that. Perhaps the leather will emerge for me as it dries further down.

    In any case, a delight that I was incredibly lucky to find. There are a few bottles out there in the wild, but they tend to be quite pricey, the most outwardly tempting of which is from a very nice seller who, unfortunately, seems to have acquired a collection of vintage bottles filled with alcohol rather than fragrance (so, if you're inspired by this sample, caveat emptor).

    Toujours Fidele D'Orsay 1939 BW.jpg
    Last edited by PStoller; 13th August 2020 at 10:56 PM.

  9. #39
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    When PStoller (aka Mr.S) brought home Toujours Fidèle, he presented it, knowing I would flip over the stopper. At that time, it was impossible to open, but I was already charmed, so it probably would not have mattered if he had never gotten it open. Luckily, he did manage to coax it free, with no damage to bottle or stopper.

    I refer to this fragrance, affectionately, as “The Dog” and find it very pleasant. To me, it opens fruity, fruity, fruity, then a little spice comes into play after a bit, but not in the heated way 90s era L’Heure Blue incorporates spice. Rather, The Dog spice is one you lean into instead of it coming to slap you in the face every time you turn your head, which can be exhausting. I await the base dry down.

    I find it easy to wear, but I can’t see it ever making me lose my mind — unless Mr. S. finds the
    Toujours Fidèle bottle with the cat stopper…

  10. #40
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Quote Originally Posted by DrTricia View Post
    I find it easy to wear, but I can’t see it ever making me lose my mind — unless Mr. S. finds the Toujours Fidèle bottle with the cat stopper…
    4826B5B7-0AC6-4D02-BFB7-6D94DD96534F.jpeg

    On the right, the only cat stopper I've ever seen (and no, dear, it was not for sale).

  11. #41
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    4826B5B7-0AC6-4D02-BFB7-6D94DD96534F.jpeg

    On the right, the only cat stopper I've ever seen (and no, dear, it was not for sale).
    But. But. It’s a cat. Must find, one day.

  12. #42

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Toujours Fidèle-

    Dabbed this on twice today because it is very nice and I got so distracted with things and think I missed the middle.

    The flowers in this are lovely. Substantial but not fleshy or heavy. Delicately sweet - maybe lilac, and something yummy reminding me of edible carnation with the little spiciness.
    I'm still missing the mentioned leather. I think I don't smell leather very well unless it is hitting me hard in the face. Dry down is creamy, sweet swirling tortise shell colors, and some papery dryness. Comfy couch of a perfume.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Knize Two by Knize

  13. #43
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Quote Originally Posted by DrTricia View Post
    But. But. It’s a cat. Must find, one day.
    Well, we almost certainly won't find it on a bottle of Toujours Fidèle. It didn't strike me as correct—the cat doesn't really fit the name of the fragrance, and the base of the stopper is different as well. So, I did some digging, and what we're really looking for is an antique bottle by Julien Viard for glassmaker Depinoix:

    9004117_1_x.jpg9004117_2_x.jpg

    The perfume is unknown: it may have been sold originally as an empty flacon. Viard did another bottle for Depinoix with a similar stopper, again for an unknown perfume:

    H0472-L69032901.jpg

    Don't get your hopes up for bargain prices on any of these, should we ever see one.

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    Well, we almost certainly won't find it on a bottle of Toujours Fidèle. It didn't strike me as correct—the cat doesn't really fit the name of the fragrance, and the base of the stopper is different as well. So, I did some digging, and what we're really looking for is an antique bottle by Julien Viard for glassmaker Depinoix:

    9004117_1_x.jpg9004117_2_x.jpg

    The perfume is unknown: it may have been sold originally as an empty flacon. Viard did another bottle for Depinoix with a similar stopper, again for an unknown perfume:

    H0472-L69032901.jpg

    Don't get your hopes up for bargain prices on any of these, should we ever see one.
    Wow. Very cool. But I disagree that cats don’t go with the perfume name. At least our cat. And hero cat.

  15. #45
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    967C04C0-E5B7-4DEE-B550-294688DD6165.jpg

    D’Orsay Élégance (c. 1923)

    aka L’Élégance, or perhaps they’re different fragrances as per Grace Hummel’s site. Issue dates range from 1914 to 1959, but 1922–1923 is most common. I can find almost nothing written about the perfume itself, let alone a pyramid or review, though the original Lalique bottle (neither of mine, alas) is prized by collectors. Bizarrely, the two bottles pictured above came up for auction at nearly the same time from different sellers. I’ve not seen one before or since, though I’m sure they’re out there.

    I look forward to your notes!

    The Lalique bottle:

    EleganceLalique1.jpgEleganceLalique2.jpg

  16. #46

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    That Lalique bottle is amazing.

    I'm really liking Elegance. It strikes me as a luxurious but also somewhat serious spicy floral with a woody and maybe mossy backbone. It's stout but comfortable, with just the right amount of softness. Warm, dry, woody cyphre base, and maybe some wispy (sandalwood?) incense. It reminds me of some good sandalwood soaps I've smelled.

    The smell suits the name, I think. Another great one!

    Update: the deep base is almost pure (sandal)woody incense and moss.
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 14th August 2020 at 07:39 PM.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Vermeil for Men by Vermeil

  17. #47
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Ooh. This is nice. It went on with the odor of shellac, which I don’t find entirely unpleasant, but that only lasted 10 seconds. Now it has the thing I call “hair oil,” which I love. It’s some note that stood out to me as a kid in Alberto VO5 hair dressing cream.

  18. #48
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    I'm getting wood (almost a rosewood, not just sandalwood, and definitely not the usual cedar or pine), spices, maybe leather. I have to reapply, because I got caught up with work (such misplaced priorities!), but this is a winner for me. Just from sniffing the bottle, I was thinking it might be very close to Toujours Fidèle, but on the skin it's a totally different animal—not a French Bulldog. I suspect this was marketed as a feminine in the 1920s, but it's sufficiently butch to out-muscle any number of contemporary candied masculines, for those who care about such things.

    Going by this week and my prior experience with the deep vintage stuff (esp. Earlyn's Mystère from the last VSSS), I'd say Parfums d'Orsay really was once a great house—not on the level of Guerlain, perhaps, but still accolade-worthy. I'm not surprised by the photos of d'Orsay bottles alongside their more celebrated peers on the dressing tables of early 20th century movie stars. The next big thing is all well and good, but there's something to be said for smelling like a legend.

  19. #49

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Elegance-

    Catching up today. Actually wore a bit of Elegance yesterday as well, and this is a good one.
    Interesting about the “hair oil” and “shellac” DrT mentions.
    When I first put this on yesterday was getting a smell like my mother’s well worn hair combs - scalp/oils, hair dressing, early plastic. Nice memories and I enjoy these smells.
    There’s some warm, opaque sweetness. Touch of makeup powder.
    Later I get something spicy - like old mulling spices, old and dry stick cinnamon, clove.
    The woody base is quite blended - slightly sweet, dry wooden spice drawer.

    This smells the most old-fashioned to me of the D’Orsay’s this week.
    Overall D’Orsay’s been way above average in house likes for me.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Knize Two by Knize

  20. #50
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    I'm trying D'Orsay Élégance. It started out with what I thought was a floral aldehyde style, but has changed quite a bit, and become more typically unisex or masculine. English Leather has crossed my mind. And cocoa butter. This is another fragrance that can smell like a scented product. For Cherry Blossom, it was colorful soap. For Elegance, it's moisturizing cream.

    But then Elegance changes some more, and the leather association feels stronger. This is pretty good, but I think the dog fragrance, Toujours Fidele, is my pick of the week.

  21. #51
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Whew! I’m glad we built the weekends into the schedule as catch up time! Here are my reactions to the last two samples. I did my testing notes without reading what others had written, and I now see that we have a wide range of opinions, but I will post my impressions anyhow. I will be curious to see if we can tease out some connections later.

    D’Orsay Toujours Fidele

    I did a few rounds of testing with this rare scent. Thanks so much for sharing it with us, PStoller and Dr. Tricia. The charm of the faithful dog on the flacon is hard to resist. I was interested to find an ad for Toujours Fidele that documented how the scent was used in a full line of products, including indelible lipstick!

    6625EEA3-D0C0-40ED-B431-724BEF5B8CD9.jpg


    The TJ sample is a haunting floral. Upon spraying, it releases a cloud of volatile topnotes, which are rather hard to pin down, but I think there is some bergamot and dry aldehydes. I am also smelling the vestiges of a rose ingredient, some tonka or vanillin, and civet. For a brief moment, Toujours Fidele reminded me of my 1950’s No. 5 extrait. After testing it a few times on skin (but not the whole vial at once, as I see the always intrepid Bavard dared to do) and also on paper, I feel that the perfume may be showing signs of its advanced age and evaporation. The structure is compressed and flattened, with all of the notes unfolding at once and it fades away fairly quickly. On my skin, it disappears almost completely in about an hour. It lasts longer on a blotter, where one can perceive the presence of rose more clearly. I’d like to research this perfume more.

    D’Orsay Elegance (1923)

    The perfume in this sample presents itself as a fine vintage leather chypre. It has a freshness and airiness, and it reminds me of similar perfumes from a much later date such as Miss Balmain. There’s the chypre Holy Trinity of bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum, as well as birch tar, isobutyl quinoline and, I believe, castoreum providing a not unpleasant presence of greasy skin (animal or human). There is also a herbal note that I couldn’t pin down—it felt like vetiver or patchouli. I began to wonder if this composition relied on one of the famous De Laire bases, such as Mousse de Saxe.

    I had fun searching for vintage D’Orsay ads. Here’s a neat ad from my local newspaper, from almost a hundred years ago..

    5A259C26-9D57-4C1A-B10A-DBC084463D9F.jpg

    I really enjoyed discussing the D’Orsay vintages and look forward to exploring this house further. I have a very old flacon of Le Dandy that I still need to open.

    Has anyone noticed what the current owners are producing now? After the effort to revive the house with reissues of classics in the 1990’s, we are now seeing a rather remorseless line of niche offerings, very arty indeed, and identified by initials only and put up in “olfactory fetishes.”

  22. #52
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Grayspoole, thanks for the research you’ve done so far, as well as your great smelling notes. I was happy to have these to share. FYI, I have some older Le Dandy en route as well. (And thank-you again to Earlyn for Cherry Blossom and last thread’s Mystère!)

    I hadn’t seen anything from the new D’Orsay beyond re-rereleases of the 1990s stuff, which Zealot Crusader assures me are decidedly inferior to the first revival. Following your post, I visited the site, which is odd to say the least. The About page contains a dubious and sketchy history that overplays by implication Count d’Orsay’s role in the founding of the company, practically to the point of deception. It alludes to the company’s illustrious past without mentioning prior owners, perfumers, or perfumes, though it does show two old ads and namechecks bottlers and illustrators. It refers to “recreations for art-lovers” without offering a hint as to what has been recreated. And it announces that the new fragrances bear the initials of famous people who inspired them without naming any of them (“we keep their identities a secret”) or who made them (“we have chosen to keep the perfumers’ names anonymous”). The owners don’t even identify themselves. So, basically, an exercise in obfuscation.

  23. #53

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    According to the "Ask a Parisienne" part of the ad, at the time of publication D"Orsay had the "largest sale of all perfumes in Europe". That surprised me. Not sure about the metrics, as the ad is pretty hard sell, but an impressive statement.

    I enjoyed the last week so much I went on to the D'Orsay site as well looking for something of interest. Not really finding anything, I'll be going back to revisit my bottles of Intoxication and Voulez Vous, Mystere. I'd like to see how these fit together. Grayspoole's Arome 3 was very good and definitely thumbs up, but to me seems so much apart from the other D'Orsays I've tried so far.

    So glad to have been able to try the D'Orsay rarities. Thanks for sharing the unobtainiums, P & T.
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Knize Two by Knize

  24. #54
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Whew! I’m glad we built the weekends into the schedule as catch up time! Here are my reactions to the last two samples. I did my testing notes without reading what others had written, and I now see that we have a wide range of opinions, but I will post my impressions anyhow. I will be curious to see if we can tease out some connections later.

    D’Orsay Toujours Fidele

    I did a few rounds of testing with this rare scent. Thanks so much for sharing it with us, PStoller and Dr. Tricia. The charm of the faithful dog on the flacon is hard to resist. I was interested to find an ad for Toujours Fidele that documented how the scent was used in a full line of products, including indelible lipstick!

    6625EEA3-D0C0-40ED-B431-724BEF5B8CD9.jpg


    The TJ sample is a haunting floral. Upon spraying, it releases a cloud of volatile topnotes, which are rather hard to pin down, but I think there is some bergamot and dry aldehydes. I am also smelling the vestiges of a rose ingredient, some tonka or vanillin, and civet. For a brief moment, Toujours Fidele reminded me of my 1950’s No. 5 extrait. After testing it a few times on skin (but not the whole vial at once, as I see the always intrepid Bavard dared to do) and also on paper, I feel that the perfume may be showing signs of its advanced age and evaporation. The structure is compressed and flattened, with all of the notes unfolding at once and it fades away fairly quickly. On my skin, it disappears almost completely in about an hour. It lasts longer on a blotter, where one can perceive the presence of rose more clearly. I’d like to research this perfume more.

    D’Orsay Elegance (1923)

    The perfume in this sample presents itself as a fine vintage leather chypre. It has a freshness and airiness, and it reminds me of similar perfumes from a much later date such as Miss Balmain. There’s the chypre Holy Trinity of bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum, as well as birch tar, isobutyl quinoline and, I believe, castoreum providing a not unpleasant presence of greasy skin (animal or human). There is also a herbal note that I couldn’t pin down—it felt like vetiver or patchouli. I began to wonder if this composition relied on one of the famous De Laire bases, such as Mousse de Saxe.

    I had fun searching for vintage D’Orsay ads. Here’s a neat ad from my local newspaper, from almost a hundred years ago..

    5A259C26-9D57-4C1A-B10A-DBC084463D9F.jpg

    I really enjoyed discussing the D’Orsay vintages and look forward to exploring this house further. I have a very old flacon of Le Dandy that I still need to open.

    Has anyone noticed what the current owners are producing now? After the effort to revive the house with reissues of classics in the 1990’s, we are now seeing a rather remorseless line of niche offerings, very arty indeed, and identified by initials only and put up in “olfactory fetishes.”
    Thank you for your wonderful notes and research.

  25. #55
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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Elegance-

    Catching up today. Actually wore a bit of Elegance yesterday as well, and this is a good one.
    Interesting about the “hair oil” and “shellac” DrT mentions.
    When I first put this on yesterday was getting a smell like my mother’s well worn hair combs - scalp/oils, hair dressing, early plastic. Nice memories and I enjoy these smells.
    There’s some warm, opaque sweetness. Touch of makeup powder.
    Later I get something spicy - like old mulling spices, old and dry stick cinnamon, clove.
    The woody base is quite blended - slightly sweet, dry wooden spice drawer.

    This smells the most old-fashioned to me of the D’Orsay’s this week.
    Overall D’Orsay’s been way above average in house likes for me.
    So cool that you “get” the hair oil reference. I feel a bit less insane.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    According to the "Ask a Parisienne" part of the ad, at the time of publication D"Orsay had the "largest sale of all perfumes in Europe". That surprised me. Not sure about the metrics, as the ad is pretty hard sell, but an impressive statement.

    I enjoyed the last week so much I went on to the D'Orsay site as well looking for something of interest. Not really finding anything, I'll be going back to revisit my bottles of Intoxication and Voulez Vous, Mystere. I'd like to see how these fit together. Grayspoole's Arome 3 was very good and definitely thumbs up, but to me seems so much apart from the other D'Orsays I've tried so far.

    So glad to have been able to try the D'Orsay rarities. Thanks for sharing the unobtainiums, P & T.
    Oh, my gosh, you use “unobtanium” too? It’s definitely one of my words, which, for me, came into use while collecting parts to restore a vintage car. And thank YOU for introducing me to new scents in the lovely extras you sent along with the Smell Club samples (I have some new loves from that bunch).

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    C8703224-7F2D-4678-B65F-CC0197575BFA.jpg

    Lanvin Eau Rumeur

    Notes this evening.

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    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    It’s good to revisit fragrances that presented a challenge in the past. Sometimes you get a wonderful change of heart. Rumeur was the first vintage Lanvin I had ever tried, when Mr. S. generously gifted me a bottle (or 5, in various strengths) toward the beginning of his foray into the world of elective smell. At the time, I was on a strict diet of Chanel No.19 and Clive Christian “C” for Women. The name and packaging were appealing, and I really wanted to love Rumeur. I wore it multiple times, and there are aspects I like very much, but there is a note in it from start to finish that ruins it for me. It’s like the caraway in an everything bagel (I hate caraway) — there’s enough other stuff going on that I can get through it, but unpleasant when it comes to the fore periodically. If I had my druthers, I would have a different kind of bagel with no caraway seeds, allowing me to enjoy without guarding.

    Mitsouko also took a few wears before I could smell it, and the heavens opened. In that case, there was nothing that offended me, I simply couldn’t smell very much (as Mr. S. gagged and knew I was wearing Mitsy from down the block. Wearing a mask). One day, about an hour or two into the wearing, I stopped in my tracks and said, “what is that?” it was the most glorious smell imaginable. My first experience of the wonderful shape-shifting Guerlain. I had a similar experience with LHB and Nahema. Such fun.

    So when I put on Rumeur this morning, I had a tiny hope that she would speak to me today in a way she never has, but, no, that note I dislike (I call it “stringiness” plus a kind of caraway smell, actually) is still there. My Guerlain epiphanies have not given me the sophistication to embrace the challenges of Rumeur, despite her charms. Back in the day, I hated what I now know was drastically reformulated Arpege, so I wasn’t feeling very optimistic about Lanvin, and the disappointment with Rumeur reinforced the doubt. Then I tried Pretext, My Sin, vintage Arpege, and, oh, my Lord, Scandal. All really good, with Scandal being one that can elicit an audible positive expression of my opinion. When we planned this sample swap, I did not have the huge bottles of eau and extrait of Scandal that I now have, but if anyone doesn’t have it, and is curious, let me know.

    I shall be very curious if your notes help pinpoint the note I dislike.

  29. #59

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Eau Rumeur- Sample 6 of 25

    Initially I got sweet citrus and a sense of a white veil of incense but then it didn't fully go there. There is freshly snuffed candle and a little dampish paper, there's ripe stone fruit in there too. Slightly sweet fruit breath, masses of exhales. Sitting in and old church after everyone has cleared out. Some spice makes me think clove or the like. I'm not good at picking out exact spice unless it is pretty obvious. I'm a lover of caraway in cooking so don't think I'd have the same negative response as DrT should I smell it in a perfume. Really not getting much in the way of flowers. There is a little bitter woodiness. I'm trapped in the church thing, although this isn't that churchy, so it is hard for me to let my brain go elsewhere. I do like old churchy smells.

    Seems this is going towards light dry wood with a little tart grass. Palm Sunday - see, there I go again. So far this doesn't smell old-fashioned to me.

    I have Eau My Sin and Eau Arpege (I think) and they are different from their parfum versions, with some aspects hi-lighted over others.
    Anyone tried both Eau and parfum for Rumeur and/or Scandal and can comment on one vs. the other?
    ”I want all the perfumes”
    Currently wearing: Knize Two by Knize

  30. #60

    Default Re: Vintage Sample Swap and Synchronization 3

    Lanvin Eau Rumeur

    Bright, warm, fleshy, citrus-and-more plus spicy floral opening. A clovey spice is very clear. Immediately there is a touch of something living. Not in a sexual or boundary-pushing way...it just smells lived in, like an old couch that has absorbed the general smell usage. This impression grows into the base, which augments the effect with feeling of earthiness within in a dark woody-leathery foundation. This smells cozy to me, like a favorite old jacket, or a well-used family getaway cabin, in which there is perhaps some potpourri sitting out.

    This reminds me of Monsieur Carven...but instead of heading out for a dashing evening, like the Monsieur just did some light gardening before slapping on a nice bayrum.

    Quote Originally Posted by DrTricia View Post
    I shall be very curious if your notes help pinpoint the note I dislike.
    After looking at the pyramid, I think it might be costus. It's a little hard to describe...earthy, bitter, dark, unwashed...lots of folks associate it with dirty hair/scalp. Used in a moderation, it can give a uniquely "human" type of animalic feel, but to some it sticks out like a dirty sore thumb.

    MPG Parfum d'Habit uses a lot of it, I think,

    Quote Originally Posted by Earlyn View Post
    Eau Rumeur- Sample 6 of 25
    Slightly sweet fruit breath, masses of exhales. Sitting in and old church after everyone has cleared out. Some spice makes me think clove or the like. I'm not good at picking out exact spice unless it is pretty obvious. I'm a lover of caraway in cooking so don't think I'd have the same negative response as DrT should I smell it in a perfume. Really not getting much in the way of flowers. There is a little bitter woodiness.
    Yes! I love these notes! I think we're very in tune here. I think we're both getting same type of "human-ness" which does seem to align with how costus is often perceived.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Vermeil for Men by Vermeil




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