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  1. #1

    Exclamation Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Geo F Trumper Eucris Parfum

    I love the reviews for this one. Well, a few of them.
    Would have bought it a long time ago, but on their website they mention moss, not oak moss.
    Is it the real oak moss, or not?
    Thank you!

    The warm, sensual beauty of sandalwood, musk and moss is enhanced by a heart of rich, honey-like jasmine and exquisite muguet. Rousing, peppery top notes of cumin and coriander radiate with the fullness of plump blackcurrants.



    Currently wearing: Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

  2. #2

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    It's treemoss.
    Ethanol B, Demineralised Water, Fragrance, Treemoss Extract, Coumarin
    Rare, vintage, and niche off-site sales.
    Big list of niche splits.
    For me a work of fiction exists only insofar as it affords me what I shall bluntly call aesthetic bliss, that is a sense of being somehow, somewhere, connected with other states of being where art (curiosity, tenderness, kindness, ecstasy) is the norm. - Vladimir Nabokov

  3. #3

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by strifeknot View Post
    It's treemoss.
    So I'm removing it from my wish list.
    Sad moment.

    Thank you!
    Currently wearing: Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

  4. #4

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    It's a wonderful fragrance. Treemoss smells great. Try it before you write it off.
    Rare, vintage, and niche off-site sales.
    Big list of niche splits.
    For me a work of fiction exists only insofar as it affords me what I shall bluntly call aesthetic bliss, that is a sense of being somehow, somewhere, connected with other states of being where art (curiosity, tenderness, kindness, ecstasy) is the norm. - Vladimir Nabokov

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Trumper’s site is quite cagey about it, listing ingredients only as alcohol, fragrance, and water. Since unadulterated oakmoss isn’t legal as a perfume ingredient in the EU, Trumper is obscuring whether Eucris is compliant or not. Most fans say it’s decidedly not compliant. But, if we can’t tell for sure, then what does it matter either way?

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    Trumper’s site is quite cagey about it, listing ingredients only as alcohol, fragrance, and water. Since unadulterated oakmoss isn’t legal as a perfume ingredient in the EU, Trumper is obscuring whether Eucris is compliant or not. Most fans say it’s decidedly not compliant. But, if we can’t tell for sure, then what does it matter either way?
    Basically means EU members have to take the Chunnel and smuggle it into their bags if they want it. Americans can have it a plenty though.
    oh look, I have a signature
    Discover a searchable archive of my reviews and more at The Scented Devil

  7. #7

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    It doesn’t strike me the same way as oakmoss of old. Probably a higher than usual dose of treemoss. It has a punch mind you. It feels uncomplicated, like a reworked aftershave rather than a perfume that was brought down in concentration, but still utterly enjoyable.
    The bottle has one of those ‘stingy’ sprayers freewheeling mentioned just the other day, but you only need 2 or 3 sprays and you’re set for the day.
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    Basically means EU members have to take the Chunnel and smuggle it into their bags if they want it. Americans can have it a plenty though.
    That's rubbish. It's available on many fragrance sites based in the EU.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by Emanuel76 View Post
    So I'm removing it from my wish list.
    Sad moment.

    Thank you!
    Quote Originally Posted by strifeknot View Post
    It's a wonderful fragrance. Treemoss smells great. Try it before you write it off.
    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    But, if we can’t tell for sure, then what does it matter either way?
    Exactly. You wouldn't judge a book by it's cover, so why judge a fragrance by its label/reputation?
    If it smells good, what's there to write off about it?

  10. #10
    Heaven's made of oakmoss
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    I smell oakmoss in the EdP for sure. Maybe they've amped up a tree/oak combo, I can't say, but there's oakmoss. So writing this one off is a pointless thing to do. There.
    Non IFRA Compliant & proud of it!
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  11. #11

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    Exactly. You wouldn't judge a book by it's cover, so why judge a fragrance by its label/reputation?
    If it smells good, what's there to write off about it?
    It's not a superstition, fetish or a fixed ideea. I just don't like tree moss at all. Compared to the oakmoss, it's from another galaxy.
    Probably it's good, maybe it's very good. But very good isn't enough anymore. I have plenty of very good perfumes that I don't wear much.
    Currently wearing: Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

  12. #12

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by Marand75 View Post
    I smell oakmoss in the EdP for sure. Maybe they've amped up a tree/oak combo, I can't say, but there's oakmoss. So writing this one off is a pointless thing to do. There.
    I had just managed to solace myself, now you're giving me hope again.
    I hate you!
    Currently wearing: Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

  13. #13

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    I asked them by email.
    Maybe I'll get a helpful answer, not a polite f@@@ off.
    Currently wearing: Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

  14. #14

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    With my EdP there isn't any treemoss or oakmoss listed on the box, and I don't think they'd be able to use the previously compliant oakmoss (2021 regs which led to perfumes using it i.e. Shangri La by HG up for being discontinued). So I'd assume they are using the mossy background approach that was fashionable from the 70's onwards introduced via Evernyl. Apparently Evernyl combined with oakmoss phenol(s) can give out the key characteristics of oakmoss, which makes sense if you think about the 70-80's style of moss which was louder in a way and was one of the contributors to the "powerhouse" style. Now obviously they aren't able to combine the restricted stuff with these isolates nowadays to give that same impression, but from what I have smelled of the EdP they must have used a decent slug of the mossy isolate materials atleast, and it is lovely.

    As for what some may be wondering with this being a UK based company and what is going on between the UK and EU, I saw the perfumer Sarah McCartney mention awhile ago that one of the chief dermatologists in the country used to be a part of the regulatory process in the EU cosmetics scene. From what I remember them saying this dermatologist seemed to want to impose even stricter rules than the commission. As for the hopes a couple of UK based BNers might have, our country would most likely copy-paste the EU's cosmetic regulatory standards, and if that dermatologist gets involved who knows what else. Not to be all doom and gloom though, plenty of perfumers have always tried hard to work around strict rules, and hopefully GFT does too.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Perhaps this is a treemoss accord of materials, some of which are natural and others synthetic, where some materials smell more "oakmossy" than "treemossy"? The problem with this back-and-forth regarding "treemoss or oakmoss?" is that "notes" in perfumery rarely reflect what is actually used to create blends. Plus, the listing of treemoss on the website is just a reflection of what the brand legally must list -- it has very little to do with what it will smell most like.

    Either way, OP, it seems like you have a bunch of replies saying they get an oakmoss note out of it. Stop torturing your curiosity and just sample it already.

    I have a vintage bottle of the EdT - smells more like oakmoss to me, but it could actually contain that given its age.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by Emanuel76 View Post
    It's not a superstition, fetish or a fixed ideea. I just don't like tree moss at all. Compared to the oakmoss, it's from another galaxy.
    Probably it's good, maybe it's very good. But very good isn't enough anymore. I have plenty of very good perfumes that I don't wear much.
    Perhaps your nose is better adjusted to telling the difference between oakmoss and treemoss. I personally wouldn't know the difference.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by HauteParfumGourmand View Post
    As for what some may be wondering with this being a UK based company and what is going on between the UK and EU, I saw the perfumer Sarah McCartney mention awhile ago that one of the chief dermatologists in the country used to be a part of the regulatory process in the EU cosmetics scene. From what I remember them saying this dermatologist seemed to want to impose even stricter rules than the commission. As for the hopes a couple of UK based BNers might have, our country would most likely copy-paste the EU's cosmetic regulatory standards, and if that dermatologist gets involved who knows what else. Not to be all doom and gloom though, plenty of perfumers have always tried hard to work around strict rules, and hopefully GFT does too.
    I've so far tried to keep away from the politics side of things on the forum in line with BN rules (as you all already know). But as this has a lot to do with perfumes, I wanted to comment to say that the above point (quoted post) is very true. Only yesterday the UK announced it will be following the EU rules on "no VAT-free shopping at airports and ports", so forget airport shopping for cheap/affordable perfumes from 2021 onwards. The same happened with interchange fees (= the fee charged to businesses by credit card companies to process transactions): rules in the UK are now stricter than the EU and cap transactions.

  18. #18
    Heaven's made of oakmoss
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by Emanuel76 View Post
    I had just managed to solace myself, now you're giving me hope again.
    I hate you!
    Thank you. Glad to help
    Non IFRA Compliant & proud of it!
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  19. #19
    Heaven's made of oakmoss
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    I've so far tried to keep away from the politics side of things on the forum in line with BN rules (as you all already know). But as this has a lot to do with perfumes, I wanted to comment to say that the above point (quoted post) is very true. Only yesterday the UK announced it will be following the EU rules on "no VAT-free shopping at airports and ports", so forget airport shopping for cheap/affordable perfumes from 2021 onwards. The same happened with interchange fees (= the fee charged to businesses by credit card companies to process transactions): rules in the UK are now stricter than the EU and cap transactions.
    It's a sad thing. And I'm fuming thinking "what the hell is wrong with people (politicians)!". These prohibitions and regs... Makes me friggin sick and tired!
    Non IFRA Compliant & proud of it!
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    Basically means EU members have to take the Chunnel and smuggle it into their bags if they want it. Americans can have it a plenty though.
    Eventually, perhaps (though even then that seems unlikely), but not yet. Despite what it may seem, we in the UK are still (effectively) operating under exactly the same conditions as we were before leaving the EU, so much so that we haven't really 'left' yet.

    If in doubt, I would head to ebay. Surely there will be older stock on there or even a vintage bottle or two to guarantee it's got the real thing, if that's what you're after?
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  21. #21

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    . Only yesterday the UK announced it will be following the EU rules on "no VAT-free shopping at airports and ports", so forget airport shopping for cheap/affordable perfumes from 2021 onwards. .
    This sucks.... so by the time it feels safe to fly again won't be able to do the old "buy lots of vat stuff and wonder wth my bag is so heavy" routine....... Some people just want to take all the joy out of life.....



    Back on topic, have had some frags with treemoss that are different from oakmoss and others where you can't tell the difference.... doesn't seem a good reason to not try a fragrance.....

  22. #22

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    unadulterated oakmoss isn’t legal as a perfume ingredient in the EU
    Is that true? I own several recent fragrances that contain oakmoss in their ingredients lists. (Off the top of my head - Terre d'Hermes, Cartier Declaration and La Panthere, Tom Ford Grey Vetiver EdT, even the new bottle of frickin' Burberry Weekend I bought last week). I thought oakmoss was still allowed in minute quantities.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Of course I'll try it if I get the chance, but I can't find any samples.
    I was going to blind buy, but without oakmoss it's not worth it.
    For oakmoss and cumin I would have bought it.

    Quote Originally Posted by woodnotes55 View Post
    have had some frags with treemoss that are different from oakmoss and others where you can't tell the difference
    Which are those?

    The only one I know is the recent version of Diorella (2015), in the late dry down. It's weak, but it's close.
    Currently wearing: Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by subhuman85 View Post
    Is that true? I own several recent fragrances that contain oakmoss in their ingredients lists. (Off the top of my head - Terre d'Hermes, Cartier Declaration and La Panthere, Tom Ford Grey Vetiver EdT, even the new bottle of frickin' Burberry Weekend I bought last week). I thought oakmoss was still allowed in minute quantities.
    https://www.sgs.com/en/news/2017/08/...ance-allergens

    If the quantity of atranol falls below .01%, you're still within the bounds of the law, but since there's not much point to that, it's effectively illegal to introduce a new fragrance containing oakmoss in the EU market now, and it will be illegal to sell an old one as of August 23, 2021. The ones you're talking about get a pass for another year because they were introduced before August 23, 2019.

    I suppose it's vaguely possible these regulations will be overturned, but I wouldn't bank on it. I foresee a black market for vintage fragrances in Europe.

    Note that the same ban applies to chloratranol (tree moss), so we're denied even the next best thing. Some perfumers have been using low-atranol oakmoss, but I doubt the percentage is low enough to meet the new EU regs. The chemist who develops an effective hypoallergenic substitute is going to make a mint.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    So I have to blind buy in a year all the vintage perfumes I wish.
    OK. It's doeble.
    Currently wearing: Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

  26. #26
    Heaven's made of oakmoss
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    ...and it will be illegal to sell an old one as of August 23, 2021.
    WHAT??!! So...basically, the vintage-fragrances market will be criminalized as of that date onwards?
    Non IFRA Compliant & proud of it!
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  27. #27
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by Marand75 View Post
    WHAT??!! So...basically, the vintage-fragrances market will be criminalized as of that date onwards?
    If I’m reading the statute correctly, yes. It may be that the aftermarket is excluded from the ban. I’d have to see the full text to be sure.

  28. #28
    Heaven's made of oakmoss
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    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    If I’m reading the statute correctly, yes. It may be that the aftermarket is excluded from the ban. I’d have to see the full text to be sure.
    Thanks, Stoller.
    Non IFRA Compliant & proud of it!
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  29. #29

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Is the oakmoss also banned in the UK?

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    It may be that the aftermarket is excluded from the ban.
    I don't think aftermarket will be affected.
    Currently wearing: Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

  30. #30

    Default Re: Eucris Geo F Trumper - real oakmoss?

    Quote Originally Posted by Emanuel76 View Post
    So I have to blind buy in a year all the vintage perfumes I wish.
    OK. It's doeble.
    Seriously. Kinda wish I hadn't read about this. Ignorance is bliss, and all that.




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