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  1. #61

    Default Re: White Lotus Aromatics Closing

    I think in this case it's best to avoid trivial names (like Night Queen or Night flowering jasmine), because they are so unspecific and inadequate. You can easily find dozens of different plants named "Night Queen" or (even more confusing) "Night flowering jasmine". The only way to go is by botanical name. In this case
    Nyctanthes arbor-tristis

    According to Arctander the scent of the flowers is "somewhat similar to that of orange flowers and jasmine". He goes on to tell that an essential oil can be obtained by distillation. The oil has a "strong and fresh gardenia-jasmine type odor." It's also possible to get an absolute (intensly floral odor of jasmine and orange flower type somewhat indolic and sharper than orange flowers.)

    Interestingly, Arctander also mentions Cestrum nocturnum. But his own experience with this plant or the oil/absolute is very limited. Consequently, he doesn't give a description of scent of the fresh flowers. He gets a heavy isoeugenol, carnation-like but still floral impression of his samples, although he's unsure of the provenance/quality.

    A view at the composition of the essential oil of the flowers of Nyctanthes arbor-tristis: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/...tbl1_325294375

    Some years ago, I got some essential oil of Nyctanthes arbor-tristis (it's long been sold out). I'm a bit skeptical about the authenticity of the oil, because the price was quite cheap for an flower oil, although more expensive than Ylang Ylang. The oil matches Arctander's description in scent and colour. To me it's indeed a mixture of orange flower and gardenia with a musky and subtle phenolic touch and some delicate spicyness. The overall impression to me is exotic and a bit "dirty". (Imagine some Jasminum sambac absolute not in green but in orange.) - In the end it's an original scent and the named associations are a bit helpless, because there is no other natural smell really comparable to this oil.

    So, this is my first post here after almost 20 (!) years of passive-reading basenotes!

    I'm interested in essential oils/absolutes and botany for more than 35 years, but I'm also interested in fragrances, perfumery and all sorts of aromachemicals. It's quite interesting to see how things changed during the last 20-30 years - especially DIY perfumery!

  2. #62

    Default Re: White Lotus Aromatics Closing

    (deleted - double post)
    Last edited by Contrapunctus; 12th March 2021 at 08:04 PM.

  3. #63

    Default Re: White Lotus Aromatics Closing

    You will find a headscape analysis in „ Meaningful Scents around the World“ by Roman Kaiser, Zürich 2006, pages 169-170 and 244-245.

  4. #64
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    Default Re: White Lotus Aromatics Closing

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Maybe, they can be useful, but me and my good friend all Natural Perfumer, Maggie and I agree, that we never liked very many of the formulas that were sent out as freebies with orders... they always smelled a bit weird. I think that you would be better served to work with other formulas that you might find in older books, like these below:

    Attachment 140621

    Attachment 140622
    This book was in a University library, and I copied the entire book and then had it bound.

    Attachment 140623
    This book was in a University library, and I copied the entire book and then had it bound.

    And in order to understand this last book in particular, and some parts in the book in the middle, you will most likely need to understand the Apothecary weights and measures, and you can consult that through my Tutorial that I have made on this topic for Perfumers in modernity. found here:
    https://pkperfumes.com/wp-content/up...al-rev6-12.pdf
    Whoa. I missed this response to my comment.

    Thanks Paul. I think I need to head over to a library soon and see what I can find. I am obsessed with finding formulas, particularly older ones with higher concentrations of EOs, absolutes, etc.

  5. #65
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    Default Re: White Lotus Aromatics Closing

    Hey! I was at a loss when WLA closed as well, but someone on here recommended Zoils on Etsy and they had some nice things I didn’t think I’d ever find again available in tiny amounts, but a truly amazing shop that I think really compares to White Lotus is EOApothecare on Etsy. I’ve found and tried a few things and was so impressed. She really has a lot of rare and specialty materials- easy to sample before going big which is always so nice. Good luck!

  6. #66
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    Default Re: White Lotus Aromatics Closing

    Quote Originally Posted by Stefffie View Post
    Hey! I was at a loss when WLA closed as well, but someone on here recommended Zoils on Etsy and they had some nice things I didn’t think I’d ever find again available in tiny amounts, but a truly amazing shop that I think really compares to White Lotus is EOApothecare on Etsy. I’ve found and tried a few things and was so impressed. She really has a lot of rare and specialty materials- easy to sample before going big which is always so nice. Good luck!
    Zoils is good, I've talked with the owner Molly a few times and she is super nice. She actually got a lot of her supplies from WLA as well and I cleaned out the rest of the silver fir that she had left from Chris a few months ago. On the expensive side, but if you just need a few grams of this or that it's not a bad option
    My perfume project: http://pinewardperfume.com/

  7. #67
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    Default Re: White Lotus Aromatics Closing

    Well, Since I missed ordering Nutmeg absolute from WL, Christine and I are splitting a kilo from Biolandes, most likely the source for WL. Should be in the PSH shop in a month or two. I use a fair bit in the scent for Ecuacion Natural, "El Secreto de la Alcazaba", so I am very glad to get it in stock again...
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  8. #68
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    Default Re: White Lotus Aromatics Closing

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Well, Since I missed ordering Nutmeg absolute from WL, Christine and I are splitting a kilo from Biolandes, most likely the source for WL. Should be in the PSH shop in a month or two. I use a fair bit in the scent for Ecuacion Natural, "El Secreto de la Alcazaba", so I am very glad to get it in stock again...
    Thanks Paul, glad to hear it. Been looking for some more of this myself as well.
    My perfume project: http://pinewardperfume.com/

  9. #69
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    Default Re: White Lotus Aromatics Closing

    Quote Originally Posted by junior_surgeon View Post
    Zoils is good, I've talked with the owner Molly a few times and she is super nice. She actually got a lot of her supplies from WLA as well and I cleaned out the rest of the silver fir that she had left from Chris a few months ago. On the expensive side, but if you just need a few grams of this or that it's not a bad option
    She seems really nice! I am so glad I found her shop! I was so scared I would never find Spanish lavender absolute again- I would have paid anything haha. And Cher from EO apothecary is so nice too. And Christine from PSH. And they all have such great materials, maybe there is life after White Lotus.

  10. #70
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    Default Re: White Lotus Aromatics Closing

    Quote Originally Posted by Stefffie View Post
    Zoils on Etsy
    Well, She certainly sells in small enough qty... AND she has Lavender Seville Absolute, at least a tiny bit...
    It is indeed hard to come by.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.




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