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  1. #31
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    They're out there. You probably just haven't stumbled upon them yet.
    This.
    Currently wearing: Resina by Oliver & Co.

  2. #32
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    M7 Oud Absolu (or did they do that confusing thing where they changed the name to just M7?)
    1. No, never blind buy (I do, but do as I say, not as I do. I'm taking no responsibility for your fragrance gambling).
    2. Get them both. You're a Basenoter and you know you're going to end up purchasing them both eventually.
    3. Yes, it has been reformulated.
    4. Looking for a signature scent? You've come to the wrong place.

  3. #33
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by slpfrsly View Post
    Thoughts, advice, commiserations, and anything else very welcome. I'm particularly interested if anyone else has had a similar revelation borne out of this kind of frustration?
    All in all, I have had similar thoughts as you, hence my extensive selling lately.

    There is clearly a shift in what 'masculine' means these days. I'm not going to try and explain why - I don't think I'm qualified to do that and it could open up all sorts of debates that will likely take this thread into another dimension.

    Traditionally speaking, I yearn for scents that are masculine - as in, woody, fougere, or perhaps only slightly 'oriental' in that they do not drift too far off into sweet candy-floss territory.

    To conclude, I think scents you might want to check out (assuming your wardrobe is up to date) are:
    Antonio Puig Quorum
    Armani Eau Pour Homme
    Chanel Pour Monsiuer
    Ralph Lauren Safari for Men
    YSL Pour Homme
    YSL Rive Gauche

    If you really are looking for something amber and not just amber-coloured, I suggest checking out YSL Opium Pour Homme.

  4. #34
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    I can sympathize. When I first got into this hobby, this was the type of scent I so badly wanted to find.

    Have you tried Caron’s Third Man? It’s not exactly brown (nor an amber), but it has the same kind of “chewiness” that’s found in Bel Ami.

    I haven’t smelled Azzaro Pour Homme Intense, but I’ll second it, as getting my nose on the original was a sort of watershed moment for me.

    I’ll also second the Ombre Leather, though I think it’s more “feminine” than what you’re looking for (smells delicious on my wife, but I love wearing it as well).

    If you want balls-to-the-wall masculine, try Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114 (edit: or is it Noir Patchouli I’m thinking of?). You might decide that the more modern, “feminine” ambers are what you want.

    Finally, Halston Man Amber might be more to your liking, though I believe it’s discontinued.

  5. #35

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    I'm wearing Frank No. 2 Los Angeles tonight and maintain that it's everything slpfrsly has been after in his quixotic quest. Warm, boozy, with that Michael Kors plum note and a rich, prominent suede. There's the faint ghost of an old-school classic waving from the distance.

  6. #36

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    MFK Grand Soir
    Guerlain Heritage edp
    Pasha Parfum
    Nicolai Amber oud

  7. #37
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    I could be wrong but Guerlain L'Homme Ideal line in its entirety, especially the new Extreme flanker fits the bill. Moschino Toy Boy, terrible marketing aside, could also be a good option. Baldessarini Ultimate, an off the radar gem. Cartier Pasha Parfum, the newest gem. Boss Botlled Intense EdP and Boss The Scent Parfum Edition are at least try worthy. Paco Rabanne 1 Million Prive is worth cheking, the most mature one from that line. I don't think that the market actually lost this warm type of frags, however it is lately more oriented in the Dior Sauvage tone for the past five years.
    Currently wearing: Luna Rossa Black by Prada

  8. #38
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    I forgot about Armani Emporio Armani Stronger With You and Stronger With You Intensely. Very strong, warm, potent. Armani Code Profumo is also worth checking.
    Currently wearing: Luna Rossa Black by Prada

  9. #39
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    Some designer releases in the "warm brown" style from the last ten years:

    Azzaro pour Homme Intense (2015)
    Baldessarini Ambre Oud (2017)
    Bentley for Men (2013)
    Calvin Klein Euphoria Amber Gold (2018)
    Cartier Pasha Parfum (2020)
    Dunhill Moroccan Amber (2019)
    Robert Graham Fortitude (2016)

    When it comes to niche, why haven't you gotten your nose on Frank Los Angeles No. 2 yet? It's pretty much everything you've been hunting for. Warm, boozy, suede-y, with a Michael for Men vibe but without Michael's aggressive aspects.
    The Pasha Parfum you mention is superb.
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  10. #40
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    I've just checked back in on this - sorry for lack of replies.

    I wasn't sure what the reaction would be to what was, admittedly, basiclly just a rant. Some appear to have misunderstood what I'm talking about, which is totally understandable, but good to get some engagement. I think I expected a discussion as much as anything else, rather than suggestions.

    I'll reply properly to each person when I have more time but thanks for responses so far.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  11. #41
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Yep, I'm kind of confused. I think part of the problem was using the term amber left me and others confused about whether you wanted a masculine amber scent, but it seems you were just going on the basis of the color of the juice or the bottle and perhaps an associated brownness(?).
    I'm still not really sure what you're looking for because some of the examples you gave are, to my mind, some of the prime offenders with respect to the areas you are complaining about (The One, I'm looking at you as gloopy sweet thing that's cloying, even for an amber scent).
    1. No, never blind buy (I do, but do as I say, not as I do. I'm taking no responsibility for your fragrance gambling).
    2. Get them both. You're a Basenoter and you know you're going to end up purchasing them both eventually.
    3. Yes, it has been reformulated.
    4. Looking for a signature scent? You've come to the wrong place.

  12. #42
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    I mean this in the kindest possible way that I think you're walking in circles, unknowingly caught in a logic loop or paradox of your own making. I'll be as clear as possible in explaining. There is a payoff I promise.

    You want a fragrance that is MODERN but smells like a VINTAGE style, but don't want to use the existing options in that style because they subjectively smell DATED to you, but also don't want the MODERN ALTERNATIVE because they smell too MODERN to you.

    In this context, DATED and VINTAGE are effectively synonymous, so to make analogy, you're looking for CHOCOLATE (vintage) that does not actually smell or taste like COCOA (dated) but is still somehow CHOCOLATE (vintage), and the WHITE CHOCOLATE (modern alternative) won't do because it's missing the X factor which makes it like the CHOCOLATE you somehow want but don't like.

    In this, you're asking everyone to solve for X, but X has likely already been identified by yourself and others in their replies as the thing that makes what you're looking for a dealbreaker to your nose.

    I can only guess that what you're looking for isn't actually amber itself, since we've established that's just a combination of labdanum, vanilla, musks, or spices varying by maker, so what I think you're after are animalics and oakmoss, which are the very things you want to avoid because of the bias towards modern relevance you have, eschewing "dated" smells in the process.

    Maybe, and this is a very very thin maybe, you'll find something from niche or high-end designer outfits like Tom Ford, Roja Dove, or Ramon Monegal. They all like playing around with vintage styles like old-school ambers, tobaccos, leathers, chypres, and the like, but you'll pay per ml dearly for it and there's no guarantee they still won't feel dated to you.

    Hence why I think you're walking in circles, like the guy who hates the bitterness of IPAs but keeps trying a million different types trying to convince himself he hasn't found the right one yet, failing to recognize that maybe he just doesn't like IPA beer after all. Maybe what he wants is more-traditional ale with a bit of malt, and not an IPA at all.

    Maybe this is you. Maybe you don't want a dark masculine amber, you really want a nice simple masculine oud (real or synth) without all the rose or patchouli. It's dark, it's masculine, and it's rich, sometimes can feel leathery, ambery, or musky, but it won't smell like "dad's aftershave".

    Try Bogart One Man Show Oud Edition (2014) for a starting point. It even has a leather note. Only $20-ish dollars.
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  13. #43

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Man Of The World View Post
    The Pasha Parfum you mention is superb.
    I think that I was the first Basenoter to seek it out, and I wasn't disappointed. Really nice stuff.

  14. #44
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post
    Maybe you don't want a dark masculine amber, you really want a nice simple masculine oud (real or synth) without all the rose or patchouli. It's dark, it's masculine, and it's rich, sometimes can feel leathery, ambery, or musky, but it won't smell like "dad's aftershave".
    Excellent analysis. This is a great suggestion.

  15. #45

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zealot Crusader View Post

    Maybe this is you. Maybe you don't want a dark masculine amber, you really want a nice simple masculine oud (real or synth) without all the rose or patchouli. It's dark, it's masculine, and it's rich, sometimes can feel leathery, ambery, or musky, but it won't smell like "dad's aftershave".

    .
    I think this sums it up as well.

    I would suggest Nasomatto Duro- a cross between Malle Monsieur and Cuirs Carner


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  16. #46
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    this is you. Maybe you don't want a dark masculine amber, you really want a nice simple masculine oud (real or synth) without all the rose or patchouli. It's dark, it's masculine, and it's rich, sometimes can feel leathery, ambery, or musky, but it won't smell like "dad's aftershave".
    This was my assumption, thus my suggestions were in that tone. As I understood, it's not exactly that the scent needed to have a dominant amber note, but rather just to be warm, opulent etc.
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  17. #47
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mak-7 View Post
    M by puredistance, Anubis papillon, musc ravageur, bing ma yong by auphorie, ambre narguile, EO1 and possibly Overture man though i didnt try it.

    I dont play with basic designer after trying a few and realizing that it doesnt fulfill my requirement.
    I've tried a few of these.

    Papillon: very underwhelming saffron fragrance with hints of incense and suede that dries down in to...nothingness. Overpriced, not good, mostly just the saffron aromachemical that is in plenty of other fragrances.

    Musc Ravageur: probably a bit more animalic than I'm talking about. Not a bad scent though, but not really what I'm talking about.

    Overture Man: another bad incense, scorched myrrh on a boring woody base. Not a 'nice' scent at all, feels offputting on my skin, and not well made.

    I am certainly fussy but I'd also say that the two that aren't animalic are also 'too' oriental for what I'm describing. I'll get on to this point in a bit..
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
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  18. #48
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    As you point out, the nineties brought in aquatics and other sharp fresh molecules, and this dominates masculine perfumery. Then darkness was gourmand-with a lot of sugar and vanilla. Then IFRA made it next to impossible to recreate the genre, which needed oakmoss as a skeleton.

    Some oldies survive in decent state (Derby, Bel Ami). In modern niche, here and there there are some dark ones that don't go into sharp leather or too much amber. Perhaps some Tauer (eg Air du desert, Lonesome rider)? Tom of finland? Rasei fort kolonya (if it lasted)?
    Yeah, I've been discussing this elsewhere online and it definitely seems like losing sandalwood first of all was a major issue with the base for many of these fragrances. Likewise, oakmoss no doubt plays a part, too. The woody ambers obviously range in both their smell, potency, 'depth' and all the rest of it - to the point where it's now a major part of things like Bleu de Chanel. But it doesn't really seem to have catered towards the 'melded' orientals of 30-50 years ago, and orientals themselves have become 'true' orientals in that they're much more Middle Eastern smelling than western brands would ever have made in previous deacdes. Bel Ami is definitely the right sort of thing. I wasn't impressed with Lonesome Rider at all, a poor fragrance to my nose. Tom of Finland was decent but lacking an interesting base - which is the key point, I think.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
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  19. #49
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    Some designer releases in the "warm brown" style from the last ten years:

    Azzaro pour Homme Intense (2015)
    Baldessarini Ambre Oud (2017)
    Bentley for Men (2013)
    Calvin Klein Euphoria Amber Gold (2018)
    Cartier Pasha Parfum (2020)
    Dunhill Moroccan Amber (2019)
    Robert Graham Fortitude (2016)

    When it comes to niche, why haven't you gotten your nose on Frank Los Angeles No. 2 yet? It's pretty much everything you've been hunting for. Warm, boozy, suede-y, with a Michael for Men vibe but without Michael's aggressive aspects.
    Good question - access is the simple answer. I can't find a sample anywhere this side of the Atlantic, unfortunately. I'll keep an eye out, though.

    Fortitude fits well as discussed elsewhere. I wasn't impressed with the Calvin Klein nor the Bentley, but they do fit this style, you're right - they're just very...'thin' feeling, I suppose, and lack the depth and guts and, dare I say it, balls for the kind of scent I'm thinking about.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
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  20. #50
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Oviatt View Post
    I feel that same as you on many of these points. Have you tried Moroccan Amber from Dunhill's signature line? Might right up your street.
    I have not. Reviews of the line seemed mixed and as they don't appear to have dropped in price, I wasn't in a rush to sample. I'll keep an eye out for it though.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
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  21. #51
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sheik Yerbouti View Post
    Have you tried Safari For Men? From what you’re describing it sounds like Safari For Men is in the ballpark of what you want.
    I have. Not a bad fragrance, a bit more herbal and fougere-y than I'm thinking of. It's been the best part of 2 years since I smelled it, though, and I didn't have my sample for very long. I have a mate who wears it to work but not enough to smell it on him - decent, and definitley in the style, but perhaps not quite. Not 'dark' enough, I think - it doesn't have those deeper, warmer notes front and centre.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  22. #52
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Mitchell View Post
    I'm confused. The 70's classics, in which this genre is based upon, aren't your think but you want something like that now? What makes you think you'll actually enjoy what it is you are wanting?
    Good, fair question.

    I'm thinking of scents that are fairly old that I came across when I was in my teens - old school aftershave/cologne scents like Yardley Gold or Roberre Noir.

    They smell unmistakably masculine, are well blended scents based on the notes I'm describing above that aren't 'one note' centirc like, say, 'Tobacco X' or 'Oud Y'.

    However they're obviously very dated. And the lineage of these kind of masculine scents seems to have been broken. Or at least, these type of masculine aromas seem to have been splintered in to component parts, or replaced by more Arabic and Persian brands, or have simply disappeared and been replaced by newer trends. Which is a shame.

    What I'd like is something that feels like something related to that historical kind of scent without, obviously, smelling as dated. For me, the best two examples I can think of are Michael for Men by Kors, and Sandor 70s by Carner Barcelona, although the latter feels too feminine.

    Hope that makes sense.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  23. #53
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ged View Post
    Zaharoff Signature
    Tom Ford Noir Anthracite
    Burberry London
    Bentley Absolute
    1. Haven't tried.
    2. Definitely not, a cold spicy wood.
    3. Thin, piney, sharp/harsh green woods. Nope.
    4. Close, not bad, Gucci Pour Homme makes a good reference point.

    Quote Originally Posted by StylinLA View Post
    "The scents of yesteryear - think colognes from the 70s, perhaps something like Bel Ami - are too dated for my tastes yet it's that idea, that feel, that still entices me."

    You're incredibly discerning which is your right.

    But I find it interesting you yearn for scents something like BEL AMI, but then find them too dated. What sort of line are you asking these scents to walk?

    PUREDISTANCE M is sort of a modernized version of BEL AMI as is ROJA DOVE FETISH.
    I think I've answered that in the comment above about the dated issue. I've tried a few Rojas, he seems to fit the bill, albeit very expensive for what they are.

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Ombre Leather
    Unfortunately not the kind of thing I'm thinking about. Good 'new leather' scent though. Lacks the depth, warmth, and complexity I've hopefully described above.

    Quote Originally Posted by notspendingamillion View Post
    man+amber= mamber? Manber?

    the problem i think is that theyve significantly sweetened the ambers in the designer realm

    brown bottles:
    adg absolu
    adg instinct
    stronger with you
    code profumo
    aramis tobacco reserve
    wanted
    wanted by night

    when i want some amber, i go with a gloopy sticky wall of Grand Soir, or a balsamic thinned out obsession. so outdated. i like it, but i understand if people dont. it is the quintessential old man amber.
    Definitely. I think Grand Soir and 'pure amber' scents (more vanilla) are sweeter and less masc than I',m thinking of, but Obsession isn't actualyl a bad reference point. It's a nice 'mixed' oriental while still smelling western. Sadly too feminine to my nose - even the men's version. Not in a bad way, I really like it, but I'd like it on a milf. To be crude. Haha.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
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  24. #54
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by hellbentforleather View Post
    Have you tried the Private Blend version of Beau de Jour? It's one of the best ambers out there.


    Haha, I agree, definitely Tom Ford's best amber. I would have thought TF would be the brand to make this kind of scent and although he's come close, I'm not sure anything fits the bill, sadly. Which is a sign of just how rare this scent evidently is.

    Quote Originally Posted by hednic View Post
    They're out there. You probably just haven't stumbled upon them yet.
    Would love to have some suggestions. I don't doubt that it's possible, but the sheer lack of a visible and easily accessible section of the market makes me think I might not be missing it, and they are either incredibly rare or simply aren't being made anymore.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy the frenchy View Post

    On a different point, I would be curious to understand what is the point of spending hours and hours over 2 years on 2 fragrance platform forums in your quest for the holy grail, asking for advices, looking for under-the-radar fragrances and write pages and pages on perfume, and then ending up with 5 fragrances, of which 4 are very contemporary smelling, and 3 of these 4 are crowdpleasing bestsellers (Layton, Aventus, Beau de Jour) that you could have located by yourself within one hour of sniffing at any decent department store. To "each his own", as we say politely...
    Yawn. I took you at your word when you had a hissy fit on fragrantica when I said I didn't like your suggestions that you didn't want to speak again. I wish you'd be a man of your word instead of seemingly being hellbent on working out some more aggro on me. Buy a punchbag or something, it's much better for you.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  25. #55

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by slpfrsly View Post
    I have. Not a bad fragrance, a bit more herbal and fougere-y than I'm thinking of. It's been the best part of 2 years since I smelled it, though, and I didn't have my sample for very long. I have a mate who wears it to work but not enough to smell it on him - decent, and definitley in the style, but perhaps not quite. Not 'dark' enough, I think - it doesn't have those deeper, warmer notes front and centre.
    I’ve read through the whole thread and think that you have painted yourself onto a tightrope....but it’s not impossible to find what you are looking for. Ambers (labdanum/vanilla/benzoin accords) tend to be sweeter because of the way they are constructed and there isn’t an agreed upon definition of an amber (not talking about ambergris here). I started a thread some time ago talking about how ambers made in the 80’s weren’t as sweet as they are today, or that’s to say when most people talk about men’s ambers today they tend to be much sweeter.

    With respect to Safari for Men, the amber plays more of a supporting role but in Grand Soir it has a lead role and a more syrupy one at that. The middle ground between these two types of fragrances is what I think will satisfy what you are looking for.
    I would suggest Jubilation XXV.
    It’s effectively a fougere / oriental hybrid - less herbal, but more resinous than the fougeres of the 80s and the resinous sweetness being tempered by the fougere aspects. It also has some blackberry. There isn’t really anything sharp about it, just well blended to contrast its two big parts.

    It’s not a straight up amber but the stuff that is made today is usually too sweet because of the resinous aspects to create the accord. Give it a go. It will take some time to get to know it well but if you are patient it will pay off. I’m not sure you’ll get much closer in your paradoxical quest for a 80s smelling modern amber that is classically masculine.
    All time favourites

    Bois du Portugal
    by Creed
    Aventus by Creed
    Heritage EdT by Guerlain
    Incident Diplomatique by Jovoy
    Cool Water (vintage) by Davidoff
    Eau Sauvage (vintage) by Christian Dior
    Chic For Men (original formulation) by Carolina Herrera
    Halfeti by Penhaligon’s
    French Lover by Frederic Malle
    Jubilation Man by Amouage
    Pour Monsieur by Chanel
    Currently wearing: Fendi Uomo by Fendi

  26. #56
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sheik Yerbouti View Post
    It’s not a straight up amber but the stuff that is made today is usually too sweet because of the resinous aspects to create the accord. Give it a go. It will take some time to get to know it well but if you are patient it will pay off. I’m not sure you’ll get much closer in your paradoxical quest for a 80s smelling modern amber that is classically masculine.
    I think there's perhaps been some reading too much in to what other people have written as my opinion rather than my opinion itself.

    I don't want something to smell like the 80s, or 70s, or anything like that; merely, this style of masculine scent seems to reside in those eras more obviously than any other period. Certainly in the present day I can't see any 'trend' or genre of fragrance like it: I'll admit that one clearly existed 10-15 years in fairly affordable 'ambery' fragrances that were like the 'safe', winter versions of the watery light blue aquatic trend. But there doesn't appear to be any true grouping of scents to point to - unlike, say, the lavender revival that is clear to note in its silver, mirrored bottles. Just the odd fragrance here or there over the last 20 years that sort of fits the bill. I'd like it to feel somewhat classical and, ideally, timeless - but in the sense that, say, Aventus 'feels' and smells like an old school fragrance. It's citrus on top of woods and spice, fairly classical, feels mature etc. Mentioning era is a good way of separating the kind of fragrance I'm talking about from modern orientals, which are, basically, too 'truly' oriental to my nose: whether that's the synthetic or even real oud trends, or something full of rose or florals, or something like Amouage that is loud and pungent, or something unisex, or something 'broken down' in to individual notes rather than a blending of these staples.

    Basically, I just want a modern incarnation of something deep, masculine, and pleasing, and 'ambery' is a means of relating to the bottles of yesteryear where using natural ingredients would mean that darker liquids were more likely to contain 'darker' notes, for want of a better phrase. I'm not talking about amber - and abstract concept, anyway - in the contemporary sense of labdanum and/or vanilla and/or woody amber etc. in the Grand Soir, gloopy vanillic amber sense.

    I think the door is pretty wide open tbh. A masculine scent containing some or all of: woods, spices, tobacco, leather/suede, and some resins or balsams/amber. Something relatively classical and timeless, that has links to old school colognes without smelling like one. There are many fragrances that manage that latter quality exceedingly well, albeit not for this 'type' of fragrance.

    I don't think the demand itself is all that precise or confusing tbh, although perhaps the way I am expressing it is. I just simply don't think brands are making these kinds of fragrances for the several reasons, mostly linked to maximising profits and splintering oriental fragrances in to constituent parts that they sell as separate fragrances. I also have to wonder if there isn't also some kind of sick joke being played on the male market to produce either fairly bogstandard aquatic or blue/sporty scents while at the same time trying to sell them increasingly feminine sweet and/or floral fragrances while denying us any distinctly wearable masculine cool weather fragrance (there are plenty of 'artistic' renditions from houses like Beaufort that, to my nose, are not serious scents to be worn by serious people). But such a discussion on whether such sick jokes exist is for another time.

    Jubilation XXV is a good fragrance, I like it. Sadly, it fails one of the other elements I raised at the start and have tried to again: it smells 'too' oriental in the true sense for my taste. At least, I don't think I could wear it, it doesn't suit me. There's something in the style that doesn't quite cross cultures harmoniously for regular wear - once in a while, by all means. But I couldn't get away with wearing it. Too opulent, too Middle Eastern in its smell.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  27. #57
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by Darjeeling View Post
    M7 Oud Absolu (or did they do that confusing thing where they changed the name to just M7?)
    A decent option, but perhaps a tad too oriental than I'm probably looking for. I did persist with the original M7 for a while, though. I liked it. So a good suggestion, thanks. It's perhaps a sign of what and how this 'style' of scent changed and morphed in to other things.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  28. #58
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    All in all, I have had similar thoughts as you, hence my extensive selling lately.

    There is clearly a shift in what 'masculine' means these days. I'm not going to try and explain why - I don't think I'm qualified to do that and it could open up all sorts of debates that will likely take this thread into another dimension.

    Traditionally speaking, I yearn for scents that are masculine - as in, woody, fougere, or perhaps only slightly 'oriental' in that they do not drift too far off into sweet candy-floss territory.

    To conclude, I think scents you might want to check out (assuming your wardrobe is up to date) are:
    Antonio Puig Quorum
    Armani Eau Pour Homme
    Chanel Pour Monsiuer
    Ralph Lauren Safari for Men
    YSL Pour Homme
    YSL Rive Gauche

    If you really are looking for something amber and not just amber-coloured, I suggest checking out YSL Opium Pour Homme.
    My wardrobe is way off - I only own a small number of scents, but I don't list the scents I've tried/owned. I have it up to date on fragrantica though.

    These are probably more fougere-like or perhaps too...gentlemanly and restrained for what I'm thinking of. Think of a ballsier, darker, and perhaps even sexier alternative to these kind of scents - which are more office safe, daily or versatile friendly - and that's probably a touch closer.

    I haven't tried Opium Pour Homme but may well give it a go, if nothing else as a reference point.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  29. #59
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    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by NettyYeti View Post
    I can sympathize. When I first got into this hobby, this was the type of scent I so badly wanted to find.

    Have you tried Caron’s Third Man? It’s not exactly brown (nor an amber), but it has the same kind of “chewiness” that’s found in Bel Ami.

    I haven’t smelled Azzaro Pour Homme Intense, but I’ll second it, as getting my nose on the original was a sort of watershed moment for me.

    I’ll also second the Ombre Leather, though I think it’s more “feminine” than what you’re looking for (smells delicious on my wife, but I love wearing it as well).

    If you want balls-to-the-wall masculine, try Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114 (edit: or is it Noir Patchouli I’m thinking of?). You might decide that the more modern, “feminine” ambers are what you want.

    Finally, Halston Man Amber might be more to your liking, though I believe it’s discontinued.
    I definiely have a few Histoires de Parfums scents on me radar so will hopefully sample this soon. Their branding does seem to be akin to the kind of thing I'm thiking of. I'm not really after a feminine amber, though - if by that you mean something like Grand Soir? I like those scents, but I'd want something more solidly masculine or at least less monolithic in its smell, which these modern ambers tend to be overly reliant on a labdanum/vanilla amber idea with not much else.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  30. #60

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by rum View Post
    All in all, I have had similar thoughts as you, hence my extensive selling lately.

    There is clearly a shift in what 'masculine' means these days. I'm not going to try and explain why - I don't think I'm qualified to do that and it could open up all sorts of debates that will likely take this thread into another dimension.

    Traditionally speaking, I yearn for scents that are masculine - as in, woody, fougere, or perhaps only slightly 'oriental' in that they do not drift too far off into sweet candy-floss territory.

    To conclude, I think scents you might want to check out (assuming your wardrobe is up to date) are:
    Antonio Puig Quorum
    Armani Eau Pour Homme
    Chanel Pour Monsiuer
    Ralph Lauren Safari for Men
    YSL Pour Homme
    YSL Rive Gauche

    If you really are looking for something amber and not just amber-coloured, I suggest checking out YSL Opium Pour Homme.
    I feel the same as of late. My favorites at the moment are Azzaro PH, Safari, Tuscany, NYI Intense, Heritage, and Beau de Jour (in no particular order). Vintage Safari, especially, just has an immaculate dry down. Aventus and Tuscan Leather are still favorites but I don't find myself reaching for them as often.
    "No one wants advice - only corroboration." - John Steinbeck




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