Code of Conduct
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 84
  1. #1
    Dependent slpfrsly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Posts
    2,125

    Default What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    What am I missing?

    When I was growing up, the impression I had of masculine fragrances was of warm, somewhat dark, rich, and masculine aromas that were brown and ambery coloured liquids. Far from being some blue or synthetic coloured bottle or liquid, something musty, perhaps spicy, rich, blended, with woods and tobacco and mosses were 'the' smell of men.

    It's that idea, that feel, as much as anything else that drew me in to fragrance: particularly in the colder months we are heading in to. And it's that feeling or 'type' I'm still searching for, still trying to find, and trying to add to my collection.

    So, what am I missing?

    I'll admit that my own formative idea isn't the be all and end all, however I also think there's a distinct lack of these type of fragrances currently for sale. Given that I was a teenager in the 00s and thus that era had a huge bearing on me as well, the fact that so many designer fragrances seemed to draw upon this idea (at least in terms of physical presentation) leaves me massively disappointed at the sheer lack of similar-smelling options today. From D&G's The One, Michael Kors for Men, and perhaps more recently Boss' The Scent, there are at least some mainstream male fragrances that tread on the stylings of yesteryear but even then, they're somewhat cauterised or softened. The scents of yesteryear - think colognes from the 70s, perhaps something like Bel Ami - are too dated for my tastes yet it's that idea, that feel, that still entices me.

    And yet it seems like 'dark' has become a pastiche in perfumery. 'Dark' in perfumery is now a cartoonish attempt to produce something that is, to my mind, unwearable. Think Beaufort London and their dedication to making interesting yet (to my mind) unwearable (or at least socially challenging) 'dark' fragrances based on concepts like gunpowder. 'Warm' has become either gloopy vanilla that is over-the-top in its sweetness, or more commonly it refers to the 'amber note' trend of pairing vanilla with labdanum and creating something more oriental-smelling. 'Spicy' has become its own venture in to orientalism, with spice going either full spice cabinet, or leaning on the vanilla trend. And 'leather'...well. This is perhaps my most hated modern development as it seems like, rathe than rich, warm, worn, enticing leathery scents, we're left with harsh, factory-fresh leather aromas akin to TF's Tuscan Leather. To my nose, these leather scents smell utterly female - they're female powerdressing fragrances and not simply because of the presence of the raspberry. They smell like a mix of dominatrix and handbag and far from the brown, rich, ambery leathery aroma I am trying to find, they are harsh, cold, sharp, and once again leaning in to the 'dark' territory of trying to smell too realistic for their own good. I am a fan of sueded leather, though it still seems like this isn't being used in the kind of manner I'm hoping for.

    So, again, what am I missing?

    Do these scents actually exist and I'm simply not seeing the woods for the trees? I do think that the designer trend of amber-coloured bottles as previously mentioned (The One etc) aren't what I'm looking for - I like what they do but they lack the depth and perhaps quality. And I tend to find issues with all vintage fragrances - from smelling dated to poor performance. Michael for Men by Michael Kors is the closest I've come to finding this aroma in a relatively modern fragrance but it takes a rather offputting opening (coriander, fir, cinnamon - quite fresh and sharp) to get to the warm, rich, lovely mid to base of tobacco, suede, and a more tasteful blending of the spicier notes. Yet I feel that fragrance is also 'thin' - the years haven't really been kind to it. Do these scents still exist? Have they changed the way they are branded? Are they no longer deep brown or amber liquids in clear glass bottles - which makes it hard to categorise this kind of smell in one harmonious family as we might be able to do more easily with, say, the dark blue ambroxan and amberwood trend?

    Or, rather than me not seeing what is out there, has the market simply stopped making these fragrances?

    I'm fairly disdainful of most niche perfumery that seems to deliberately try to maximise its market by creating nominally unisex scents - precisely because they invariably are not unisex in the slightest, they are female-oriented. This is in particular evidence when it comes to the big designers - Chanel, YSL, Dior - and their high end 'boutique' lines: Les Exclusifs, La Collection etc. But even smaller niche houses seem to fall for this - whether women are the primary buyers of fragrances or not, having tried a good 200-300 niche samples over the last 12 months, their fragrances tend to veer in to the self indulgent, or 'more' oriental, or simply feminine smelling. The kind of fragrance I'm hoping to find simply doesn't exist. At least, the market has decided not to make it anymore. Why? What am I missing...?

    It seems like a horrible joke is being played on men, where they're being told to wear all manner or iris and violet-based designer fragrances as office wear (my own interpretation of that is this trend has been pushed specifically to produce a modern-smelling 'safe' workplace aroma that doesn't deter women; the fragrance equivalent of banning conversations about sport in the office) or dark blue sporty scents that, for the most part, are not as versatile or as universal as brands evidently believe (again, my opinion). It's like this staple of masculine aroma has...disappeared. It's just gone. Poof...off in to the ether. And I'm really, truly struggling to understand why.

    To me, this IS the reason for fragrance: something warm, rich, blended, a dark yet comforting aroma that is somewhat smoky, spicy, warming, and masculine. I totally understand fresh and clean. I understand green and piney, or blue and sporty, or yellow and citric. But brown, ambery, rich, warm...it's THE whole point I want to wear fragrance. It feels like the absolute pinnacle of masculine perfumery and yet, perversely, the market doesn't seem to even recognise this let alone cater to it.

    Apologies for the rant but I'm genuinely at a loss: am I missing something? Have I simply overlooked the scents I'm talking about? This is with a view to genuinely finding a fragrance I love: and so when I ask 'am I missing something', it's because I want to add it to my wardrobe. Yet equally, I feel like I'm at a loss as to why this style of fragrance just...seems to be in such short supply. Given the sheer number of fragrances available in the present day, all the weird and wonderful aromatic creations, why on earth is this fragrance type so...absent?

    Thoughts, advice, commiserations, and anything else very welcome. I'm particularly interested if anyone else has had a similar revelation borne out of this kind of frustration?
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Aventus by Creed

  2. #2
    Basenotes Junkie Mak-7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    762

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    M by puredistance, Anubis papillon, musc ravageur, bing ma yong by auphorie, ambre narguile, EO1 and possibly Overture man though i didnt try it.

    I dont play with basic designer after trying a few and realizing that it doesnt fulfill my requirement.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    22,663

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    As you point out, the nineties brought in aquatics and other sharp fresh molecules, and this dominates masculine perfumery. Then darkness was gourmand-with a lot of sugar and vanilla. Then IFRA made it next to impossible to recreate the genre, which needed oakmoss as a skeleton.

    Some oldies survive in decent state (Derby, Bel Ami). In modern niche, here and there there are some dark ones that don't go into sharp leather or too much amber. Perhaps some Tauer (eg Air du desert, Lonesome rider)? Tom of finland? Rasei fort kolonya (if it lasted)?

  4. #4
    Dependent PrinceRF's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    California
    Posts
    5,822

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Honestly I feel similar to you.

  5. #5

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Some designer releases in the "warm brown" style from the last ten years:

    Azzaro pour Homme Intense (2015)
    Baldessarini Ambre Oud (2017)
    Bentley for Men (2013)
    Calvin Klein Euphoria Amber Gold (2018)
    Cartier Pasha Parfum (2020)
    Dunhill Moroccan Amber (2019)
    Robert Graham Fortitude (2016)

    When it comes to niche, why haven't you gotten your nose on Frank Los Angeles No. 2 yet? It's pretty much everything you've been hunting for. Warm, boozy, suede-y, with a Michael for Men vibe but without Michael's aggressive aspects.
    Last edited by Brooks Otterlake; 17th October 2020 at 10:43 PM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    I feel that same as you on many of these points. Have you tried Moroccan Amber from Dunhill's signature line? Might right up your street.
    Very clearly a case for corn flakes and classics

  7. #7
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Dubai
    Posts
    451

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Perhaps these amber frags fall in the category of niche that u dislike... but i really dig these in order of preference
    Ambre loup by rania j
    Ambre sultan by serge lutens
    Ambre nuit by dior
    Ambre cashmere by nicolai
    Ambre eternal by guerlain




    Sent from my SM-G980F using Tapatalk
    1. Sandalo by Lorenzo Villoresi
    2. Eau D'Hederin by Annick Goutal
    3. Neroli Portofino by Tom ford
    4. Gris Clair by Serge Lutens
    5. L'Ombre Dans L'Eau by Diptyque
    6. Colonia by Acqua di Parma
    7. Scandal by Roja
    8. Sublime Vanille by Creed
    9. Moon Safari by Memo
    10. Pour Homme by Paco Robanne

  8. #8

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Have you tried Safari For Men? From what you’re describing it sounds like Safari For Men is in the ballpark of what you want.
    All time favourites

    Bois du Portugal
    by Creed
    Aventus by Creed
    Heritage EdT by Guerlain
    Incident Diplomatique by Jovoy
    Cool Water (vintage) by Davidoff
    Eau Sauvage (vintage) by Christian Dior
    Chic For Men (original formulation) by Carolina Herrera
    Halfeti by Penhaligon’s
    French Lover by Frederic Malle
    Jubilation Man by Amouage
    Pour Monsieur by Chanel
    Currently wearing: Fendi Uomo by Fendi

  9. #9

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Hermes Equipage and Bel Ami
    ELdO Je Suis Un Homme
    +1 Papillon Anubis
    Unum Io Non Ho Mani
    A November rotation meandering around leather, forest, incense and vetiver : Bottega Veneta EdP, Knize 10, GGA, Yatagan, Quorum, Jacomo de Jacomo, Zagorsk, Etro Vetiver, Encre Noire. Penhaligon's Elixir, Casbah, Shaal Nur
    Currently wearing: Équipage by Hermès

  10. #10

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Sounds like the original Perry Ellis for Men to me.

  11. #11

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Slumberhouse Jeke and Baque are both in this category. Jeke is a little smokier but with a great, woody and creamy backdrop for an excellent smoky tobacco fragrance.

    Baque is fresh apricot tobacco with a golden haze of ambergris around it. Not the amount of smoke but has a comfortable richness that feels like what you might be looking for.

    Outside of those, if you're open to looking for some vintage on eBay, I've gotten the precise vibe that you're referencing from Lagerfeld Cologne. Down to the color of the juice in a clear bottle.

  12. #12
    Basenotes Junkie Alonewithcologne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    919

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Perhaps Jovan Secret Amber? It's an inexpensive, yet classic amber which supposedly smells similar to Ambre Precieux by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier.

  13. #13
    Basenotes Institution Danny Mitchell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    10,460

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    I'm confused. The 70's classics, in which this genre is based upon, aren't your think but you want something like that now? What makes you think you'll actually enjoy what it is you are wanting?
    "Ducks eat for free at Subway."
    Currently wearing: Polo by Ralph Lauren

  14. #14
    Dependent PrinceRF's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    California
    Posts
    5,822

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by krooze View Post
    Slumberhouse Jeke and Baque are both in this category. Jeke is a little smokier but with a great, woody and creamy backdrop for an excellent smoky tobacco fragrance.

    Baque is fresh apricot tobacco with a golden haze of ambergris around it. Not the amount of smoke but has a comfortable richness that feels like what you might be looking for.
    These two are very special scents.

  15. #15

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    I second the Tauer and the Bentley already mentioned and I’d like to add L’Homme Sage by Divine. I would recommend Fan di Fendi but that’s discontinued and not sure about current prices.
    Currently wearing: Zen for Men by Shiseido

  16. #16

    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Brisbane AUS
    Posts
    1,329

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Zaharoff Signature
    Tom Ford Noir Anthracite
    Burberry London
    Bentley Absolute
    Top 10: Chanel Antaeus, Chanel Sycamore, Creed Aventus, Creed Green Irish Tweed, Frapin Isle of Man, Guerlain Habit Rouge, Hermes Terre d'Hermes, TF Beau de Jour, TF Tuscan Leather, YSL Rive Gauche.

    10-20: ADP Colonia Essenza, Chanel Egoiste, Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree, Creed Vintage Tabarome, Dunhill Edition, Dunhill For Men 1934, Knize Ten, Polo Modern Reserve, YSL M7, Zaharoff Signature

  17. #17

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    "The scents of yesteryear - think colognes from the 70s, perhaps something like Bel Ami - are too dated for my tastes yet it's that idea, that feel, that still entices me."

    You're incredibly discerning which is your right.

    But I find it interesting you yearn for scents something like BEL AMI, but then find them too dated. What sort of line are you asking these scents to walk?

    PUREDISTANCE M is sort of a modernized version of BEL AMI as is ROJA DOVE FETISH.
    Between Covid and retirement I don't get out much. But when I do, I smell real good.
    Currently wearing: Antaeus by Chanel

  18. #18
    All Is Beautiful
    thrilledchilled's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Virginia, Florida
    Posts
    6,509

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Ombre Leather
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

  19. #19

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Currently wearing: Psychédélique by Jovoy

  20. #20
    everyday i'm samplin'
    notspendingamillion's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Middleof, Nowhere
    Posts
    2,457

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    man+amber= mamber? Manber?

    the problem i think is that theyve significantly sweetened the ambers in the designer realm

    brown bottles:
    adg absolu
    adg instinct
    stronger with you
    code profumo
    aramis tobacco reserve
    wanted
    wanted by night

    when i want some amber, i go with a gloopy sticky wall of Grand Soir, or a balsamic thinned out obsession. so outdated. i like it, but i understand if people dont. it is the quintessential old man amber.
    I smell.

  21. #21

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Have you tried the Private Blend version of Beau de Jour? It's one of the best ambers out there.


    "No one wants advice - only corroboration." - John Steinbeck

  22. #22
    Freed from BN Institution

    N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    56,424

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Some oldies survive in decent state (Derby, Bel Ami).
    I would add Bourjois Or Maculin. The amber is accompanied with oak moss and sandalwood.
    Follow Upcoming Sync Fridays For 2020 HERE:http://www.basenotes.net/threads/471...d-Fridays-2020

    Fragrance Reviews:http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/13373062

    Interested in Learning about Discontinued/Vaulted Creeds? Join Basenotes' Creed Group: http://www.basenotes.net/group.php?groupid=35

  23. #23

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    I love Akkad by Lubin. Fantastic amber fragrance.

  24. #24
    hednic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Reside in McLean, Va., Manhattan NYC, Manuel Antonio Costa Rica & Búzios Brasil
    Posts
    326,962

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by slpfrsly View Post
    Apologies for the rant but I'm genuinely at a loss: am I missing something? Have I simply overlooked the scents I'm talking about?
    They're out there. You probably just haven't stumbled upon them yet.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  25. #25
    Basenotes Institution
    sjg3839's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    45,693

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Ambre Premier by Jovoy.
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26148387.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26148387-7393.jpg"> Carven L'Eau Intense by Carven</a></div>

  26. #26

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Can relate to this particular situation-while having tested good ambers in the past and also owned a few, most new male releases in any price category by most fragrance houses do for some reason ignore/underexpose/under-weigh warm male/unisex ambers among the recent output

  27. #27

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    I think this is a common sentiment for those of us that grew up in the 70s/80s. I am always on the lookout for a throwback and usually walk away dissatisfied.
    Although very rarely, I do find one that makes me smile. I don't know if you have tried Mr Blass, but I highly recommend it.

  28. #28

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Ombre Leather
    Nah, that'd be exactly the kind of sweet, fruity leather OP is trying to get away from. I like Ombre Leather, but it's not exactly butch.

  29. #29
    Basenotes Institution pluran's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Carmel Valley, CA
    Posts
    10,312

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    ...........Some oldies survive in decent state (Derby..........
    Hmm. New version: Glade air freshener.
    Currently wearing: Clubman by Pinaud

  30. #30
    Banned
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    US
    Posts
    2,165

    Default Re: What am I missing? Where have warm, 'ambery' masculine fragrances gone?

    Quote Originally Posted by slpfrsly View Post
    What am I missing?

    It seems like a horrible joke is being played on men, where they're being told to wear all manner or iris and violet-based designer fragrances as office wear (my own interpretation of that is this trend has been pushed specifically to produce a modern-smelling 'safe' workplace aroma that doesn't deter women; the fragrance equivalent of banning conversations about sport in the office)
    Fact checking: Dior Fahrenheit is a huge seller, a violet based scent, and I cant imagine a woman wearing that one ever, nor a man wearing that in the office. Bad call!
    As for sport convos, I'm an ex rugby player and very happy not to have basic bros coming to bother me in the office with sport talks. Nothing more boring!
    Wearing a bold fragrance at work would porbably not only deter women, but also men... Why taking women specifically as example?

    I'm not sure what you're "missing", but as others have underlined in their previous responses, that doesn't make really sense to look for an "amber of the 70s/80s that is not done anymore" while openly admitting that you're not a fan of this period and taking Bel-Ami as an example of dated fragrance.

    On a different point, I would be curious to understand what is the point of spending hours and hours over 2 years on 2 fragrance platform forums in your quest for the holy grail, asking for advices, looking for under-the-radar fragrances and write pages and pages on perfume, and then ending up with 5 fragrances, of which 4 are very contemporary smelling, and 3 of these 4 are crowdpleasing bestsellers (Layton, Aventus, Beau de Jour) that you could have located by yourself within one hour of sniffing at any decent department store. To "each his own", as we say politely... But ok, let's be constructive, and here are a couple of suggestions (that I hope will be useful this time):

    Tauer - L'Air du Desert Marocain (coriander, labdanum, leather)
    Jovoy - Les Jeux Sont Faits (booze, tobacco, cumin)
    HdP - Ambrarem (dark amber, spices, oud)
    Masque - Tango (dark amber)
    Lutens - Le Participe Passe (caramel, spices, woods - sweet but dark)
    Zegna - Strength (smoky tobacco, oud, honey, animalic musks - discontinued)
    Zegna - Passion (booze, incense, saffron - discontinued)
    Currently wearing: Resina by Oliver & Co.




Similar Threads

  1. Best Warm/Winter Masculine Scent for men?
    By 1_ODONNELL in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 9th December 2014, 06:19 AM
  2. Warm, Confident, Open....yet.................Masculine
    By fkc_nner in forum Just Starting Out
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 27th November 2011, 03:36 AM
  3. Warm, Masculine Scents...will these 3 do it?
    By ChuckW in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 9th February 2010, 10:09 PM
  4. Dry, Masculine Scents for Warm Climate
    By ChuckW in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 27th August 2007, 04:42 PM
  5. looking for ambery fragrances
    By docjason in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 22nd September 2005, 03:22 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000