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  1. #1
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    Default A winter gourmand for a woman

    Hi everyone, I'm a long time lurker but I'm struggling to find the right fragrance so looking for some suggestions! I love a gourmand but I find that those I have (in my very limited wardrobe!) are mostly spring summer fragrances. I would love something a bit deeper, spicier and cosier for winter. I have always been a one fragrance kind of person, so just gently expanding my collection and would love some suggestions. I have sampled like crazy and seem to be getting nowhere. I think I like the idea of niche, but in reality I am more conventional, maybe with a twist.

    Hopefully it's not information overload but I'll list my faves and things I've tried below.

    First Love
    Gucci Envy - my cousin bought this for me in the 90s and I loved it from first sniff. I think after many years I wanted a change (because of course I couldn't have more than one smell!!)

    Signature
    Coco Mademoiselle - found this in duty free with a close friend, we both tried it and both hated it on her but both loved it on me, made me realise the importance of skin chemistry. It's since been nearly a twenty stint as my scent, it has lot of memories and sentimentality attached, so I think I will always have a bottle. I've nearly run out so ordered the Intense version to try.

    Rest of Wardrobe
    *TF Noir Pour Femme - this was my attempt at a winter gourmand and a rushed buy whilst going nose blind in a department store. I like it and it's wearable but I find it a bit 'meh' so regret rushing to buy it just so I had something.
    *Imaginary Authors Yesterday Haze - I visited Bloom in London and came home with this, I find it light yet warm and comforting. I enjoy wearing it but it's not a signature.
    *Vilhelm Parfumerie Poets of Berlin - my husband took me to Liberty last Christmas to pick out a scent together and this is what we chose. To me it seems very floral even though there is none in the notes! I save this for best stupidly, so think I need to wear it more often.

    Sampled
    Last year (before the Liberty trip) I was trying to find a tobacco scent, sampled like mad yet nothing grabbed me. We then went to Liberty and came away with Poets of Berlin, so maybe tobacco is just not for me?
    *TF Tobacco Vanille - liked but didn't love
    *Tabac Rouge - felt more interesting and complex than TV but still like not love
    *Franck Boclet Tobacco - seemed the easiest to wear of the three but longevity on me wasn't great

    Currently sampling vanillas and again struggling
    *Memoirs of a Trespasser - too much like incense, too smokey
    *Diptyque Eau Duelle - soft and a bit smokey again, it's ok but just that
    *Di Mono Vanille - my husband says it makes me smell like a church!
    *Un Bois Vanille - opening seems burnt and dirty? After a while I could smell the clouds of vanilla around me which I liked, prefer after the dry down

    If it helps my husband wears Ombre Leather which I absolutely love on him!

    Also a candle I love and I wish was a fragrance is Diptyque Narguile. It has that spiced, wintery feel I'm looking for.

    Thank you!

  2. #2

    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Guerlain Lui might be worth a try.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Thank you, that was actually on my list but I couldn’t find a sample to buy just a full bottle. I’ll have another look for a sample.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Vanille Absolument
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26148387.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26148387-7393.jpg"> Carven L'Eau Intense by Carven</a></div>

  5. #5
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    How about Angel!

  6. #6
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    You've got to try Hermèssence Ambre Narguilé from Hermes, an amazing gourmand. My favorite for winter in fact.

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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    I see you're including niche or expensive perfumes, and I think that in this genre (elegant gourmand) niche does much better than mainstream.

    Adding a couple of ideas:
    Chanel Bois des Isles: smooth, cozy, woody
    Lubin Korrigan: warm wintery, amber, incense, vanilla

    cacio

  8. #8
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Tom Ford Plum Japonais

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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Welcome to basenotes!

    Like This by Etat Libre d'Orange is surely a must-try in this category.
    "What is this secret connection between the soul, and sea, clouds and perfumes? The soul itself appears to be sea, cloud and perfume..." - from Zorba the Greek by Nikos Kazantzakis.
    Currently wearing: Nag Champa by Ava Luxe

  10. #10
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Lubin Korrigan: warm wintery, amber, incense, vanilla

    cacio
    Another for this.
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    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Thank you for all of the suggestions, it’s much appreciated.

    It seems Vanille Absolument and Plum Japonais are discontinued, or maybe that’s just in the UK?

    Sadly I don’t like Angel, I prefer Alien but still not a love.

    I will try and track down samples of the rest!

  12. #12

    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Quote Originally Posted by curiosityfinds View Post
    Thank you, that was actually on my list but I couldn’t find a sample to buy just a full bottle. I’ll have another look for a sample.
    It's really lovely! Translucent pear, spicy clove and geranium, and a comforting fog of high-quality vanilla.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    This is the perfect question for Kotori, but I haven't seen her around here lately. This is exactly her field.

    I'm pretty sure she'd recommend a fave of hers -- "L" de Lolita Lempicka. I think they may have discontinued it, but there's still plenty of it floating around the after-market online. Read up on it and see if it ticks all your boxes.

  14. #14

    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Great recommendations already, also adding in no particular order: Akkad by Lubin, Chergui by Serge Lutens, Chanel Coco Noir, Dior Dolce Vita, Yves Rocher Vanille Noire

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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Plum japonais was inspired by a Lutens classic, Feminite de bois. Which would also work very well. Warm and woody, but with fruits.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    This is the perfect question for Kotori, but I haven't seen her around here lately. This is exactly her field.

    I'm pretty sure she'd recommend a fave of hers -- "L" de Lolita Lempicka. I think they may have discontinued it, but there's still plenty of it floating around the after-market online. Read up on it and see if it ticks all your boxes.
    This sounds amazing! I can find some on ebay but I'm worried if I fall in love with it then it will be difficult and pricey to get hold of. Not sure whether to get a sample!

  17. #17
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    Great recommendations already, also adding in no particular order: Akkad by Lubin, Chergui by Serge Lutens, Chanel Coco Noir, Dior Dolce Vita, Yves Rocher Vanille Noire
    Ooh thank you, will have a look at these!

  18. #18
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Plum japonais was inspired by a Lutens classic, Feminite de bois. Which would also work very well. Warm and woody, but with fruits.
    I will have a look at this, thank you!

  19. #19
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    When I am in this mood, I enjoy Mauboussin’s Histoire d'Eau by Christine Nagel. It’s discontinued, but I do see it around here and there.

    Good luck!
    Currently wearing: Parfum de Peau by Montana

  20. #20
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Hello and welcome to Basenotes! You already have many wonderful suggestions here. I’ll add

    Dior Addict, Hypnotic Poison
    Nobile 1942 Cafe Chantant
    Lolita Lempicka Eau de Parfum

    Quote Originally Posted by curiosityfinds View Post
    Sadly I don’t like Angel, I prefer Alien but still not a love.
    You may find Alien Essence Absolue more to your taste as it builds on the original with added vanilla, amber and incense.
    "I felt something so intense, I could only express it in a perfume." - Jacques Guerlain
    Currently wearing: Delina by Parfums de Marly

  21. #21
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Thank you all for the welcome and suggestions! I will get hold of as many samples as possible and let you know how I get on!

  22. #22
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Lutens Jeux de Peau, Hermès Ambre Narguilé, Guerlain Shalimar, Dior Fève Délicieuse.
    I don’t understand.It is so vast that surpasses all understanding.Understanding is always limited.But not understanding can have no boundaries.I feel like I'm much more complete when I don't understand.Not understanding,like I say,is a gift.Not understanding,but not as a simple-minded.The good thing is to be intelligent and not understand.It's a strange blessing, like having craziness without being crazy.It is a meek disinterest,it is a stupid sweetness.
    Currently wearing: Roadster by Cartier

  23. #23
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    I'm sorry I didn't think of this sooner: Tea for Two by L'Artisan Parfumeur. Pretty near perfect for your requirements.

    Originally launched in 2000, the Nose behind this fragrance is Olivia Giacobetti. The top notes are bergamot, star anise and tea; middle notes are cinnamon, ginger, spices and gingerbread; base notes are honey, vanilla, leather and tobacco.

    https://olfactoriastravels.com/2014/...r-tea-for-two/

  24. #24

    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Great suggestions already given, I agree with all of them. A couple I would add are Guerlain Gourmand Coquin, Kilian Love and Thierry Mugler Angel Muse.
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  25. #25
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Hi everyone, I've had most samples arrive now and initial thoughts below.

    The ones I like and want to try again
    *Hermes Ambre Narguile - warm spiced smokey honey, like this
    *Nobile 1942 Cafe Chantant - musky and spicy with a fruity note but is quite sweet
    *L de Lolita Lempicka - rounded, spicy and warm
    *Lubin Akkad - not something I'd usually go for with the smokey incense but I quite like
    *Alien Essence Absolue - I find this quite dense but I do quite like

    Not sure
    *Guerlian Lui - not sure on the opening, seems kind of flat but that may be the pear? I like it when it settles but sits very close to the skin and I'd like more projection.
    *Etat Libre d'Orange Like This - very citrus and fresh so maybe not what I'm after, but it does settle ok and becomes more mellow

    Didn't like
    *Chergui - really not for me, got a really burnt note which may be the hay. Hubby quite likes it though so he can use the sample!
    *Hypnotic Poison - very musky not sure I get the florals or fruit
    *Lolita Lempicka - seemed quite a soapy scent on me
    *Lutin Korrigan - had high hopes for this, but it completely disappears on me
    *Feminite du Bois - also vanishes, smells strongly as I spray it and then within a couple of minutes is barely discernible!
    *Bois des Iles - smells quite masculine on me, dark and smokey

    I will try the ones I like again but wonder based on my preferences if there are any further samples I should try? Tempted to get a sample of Tea for Two?

    Thank you again for all of your wonderful suggestions!

  26. #26
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Quote Originally Posted by curiosityfinds View Post
    Hi everyone, I've had most samples arrive now and initial thoughts below.
    Tempted to get a sample of Tea for Two?
    You definitely should, based on the ones that you liked.

  27. #27

    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    In case your hunt runs out of steam (I'm sure some of the above are great fragrances). I'll just chime in:

    Diptyque Volutes EDP (to me this is slightly on the feminine side of unisex, it's just so soft and nice, but then it has that iris/honey warm/cold thing, and a bit of some "darker" tones of tobacco, hay and incense. Similar to Chergui but a lot less harsh, I own both but I almost never wear chergui because it's a bit too much sometimes. Volutes EDP is just really nice. But I doubt that many would classify it as a gourmand, but it is sweet, but it's just some honey/iris that flows perfectly with the rest. I think it would be worn best by a woman, but I don't think it project very much (and/or my nose gets so used to it so quickly I struggle smelling it now).

    Etro Heliotrope - not really gourmand, but it does smell of vanilla, a bit of cherries, and it's rather dry or sort of a bit like Dr. Pepper soda. Sort of a bitter almond smell. Nothing very complicated about this one, but I think it's unique.

    Again on the edge of gourmand would be "Indochine" (parfumerie generale) which is basically cardamom, honey, benzoin and a hint of black pepper. Very nice, quite inoffensive.

    The one PG fragrance I do own which is borderline gourmand, is Intrigant Patchouli - parfumerie generale, it's patchouli but it's perfumey and sweet (slightly animalic = I think most would call "perfumey" or even "soapy" at this point, I certainly find nothing dirty about this one -- I believe there's civet in this one), but like all of PG scents they are very smooth and comforting. This one I think is amazing, and again like Volutes I think it would work great on a woman, but this one has better projection/longevity in my opinion than Volutes.

    If you like honey or iris, then I can highly recommend Infusion d'Iris Eau de Parfum Absolue https://www.basenotes.net/ID26133700.html
    It just smells amazing, but it is rather potent and so forth... iris fragrances tend to cause more headaches than some, literally.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    You definitely should, based on the ones that you liked.
    Thank you, I'll get a sample!

  29. #29
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    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Thank you Heawns for the detailed and informative reply, I shall look in to these. Much appreciated.

  30. #30

    Default Re: A winter gourmand for a woman

    Others to consider

    Amber Mystique by Estée Lauder

    Honey Aoud by Montale

    Oajan by Parfums de Marly

    Tabac Rouge by Phaedon

    Kensington Amber by Penhaligon’s
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