Your Vintage Scent of the Day (SOTD) - Q1 2021

[AlphaFrank75]

LacosteLand.jpg

[Jean-Sté]

Hi Jean!
How close do you think it is to Macassar?
Thank you!

Hi Deleanu ! I'm an absolute beginner in the world of scents, but to me, there are no similarities between OMS and Macassar. Macassar is far more complex, darker, deeper than OMS (which doesn't mean OMS is inferior: they are different.) I'll wait until the drydown of OMS to make up my mind.
In other words, when I believe OMS goes in one direction (great direction, however), Macassar goes in many, which makes, in a certain way, its complexity.

EDIT I just smelled the nozzle of Macassar, to compare with OMS. I can see maybe to things they share: the needle pine smell, and a peppery smell. But, when the peppery of OMS comes directly from the huge amount of pine, the one of Macassar comes from something else (which I'm unable to tell.) Other means to compare: should OMS be a colour, it would be a dark green, when Macassar is more a dark yellow, deep gold dark yellow (and by saying this, I don't refer to their juices' colour.) Or, on a musical comparison: where OMS is the horns section, Macassar is the whole orchestra.

Sorry for my bad English again, I think it is the longer text I've ever written here !

[grayspoole]

Lenthéric - Tanbark Cologne (1941)
From the name, you’d expect a woody leather. All I got was a rote citrus opening over a base so generic that the notes defy identification. It’s something as opposed to nothing—nothing more or less than “nice.” Ah, well: it wasn’t too great an investment, at least.

Tanbark is described as “woodsy” in vintage ads. I’m sorry it wasn’t more memorable but thanks for posting about your testing of it.

I do love all of the vintage Lenthéric advertising though. I think they had a big ad budget in the 1930’s -40’s. The men’s products were put up in sets called “Three Musketeers.” (women had “Three Silent Messengers” or “Three Secret Messengers”). Great tagline for the men’s products...”Quiet. Perfect Grooming.” This ad is earlier but these sets did include Tanbark afterwards

4BC7C587-B253-4890-8F72-BDEEB7E4D530.jpg

Meanwhile, I thought this 1934 ad had a good explanation for the “Bouquet Lentheric” formulation, which was their version of cologne, while their EDT’s were stronger, closer to parfum but not as expensive, (There’s another ad that explains this.)

A8A288CD-DC2C-4F1F-83A3-C2FE3A0CED33.jpeg

“Let the silent message tell him of your inner radiance.” So THAT’s why the women's sets are called Silent and Secret Messengers! Despite the insistence that the Bouquet Lentheric formulations are “quiet but with a strange persistence,” I have always found them to be rather light.

Have you tried “patting” it on with your hands, sir?

[JON RODGERS]

[allkindsofwatches1]

Giorgio Armani Attitude

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[nosey74]

Unagro Pour L'Homme

Great fragrance


Today I'm wearing Sybaris by Puig

IMG_6658.jpg

[Marand75]

Fine water it is! Puig Agua Brava ('68)

[JON RODGERS]

Great fragrance


Today I'm wearing Sybaris by Puig

IMG_6658.jpg

Another great one

[aero58]

Givenchy Vetyver (vintage)

Trying this one for the first time (from a decant). My oh my, what a pleasant surprise upon initial application - this is marvelous! Looking forward to seeing how this dries down and what kind of longevity I'll get.

[freewheelingvagabond]

SOTD

[Cook.bot]

Ô de Lancôme (1969)

...and waving to RoRo, wherever he may be.

[cologne connoisseur]

Perry Ellis Cologne for Men

[Tristan45]

Cabochard.jpg

[PStoller]

Tanbark is described as “woodsy” in vintage ads. I’m sorry it wasn’t more memorable but thanks for posting about your testing of it.

I do love all of the vintage Lenthéric advertising though. I think they had a big ad budget in the 1930’s -40’s. The men’s products were put up in sets called “Three Musketeers.” (women had “Three Silent Messengers” or “Three Secret Messengers”). Great tagline for the men’s products...”Quiet. Perfect Grooming.” This ad is earlier but these sets did include Tanbark afterwards

4BC7C587-B253-4890-8F72-BDEEB7E4D530.jpg

Meanwhile, I thought this 1934 ad had a good explanation for the “Bouquet Lentheric” formulation, which was their version of cologne, while their EDT’s were stronger, closer to parfum but not as expensive, (There’s another ad that explains this.)

A8A288CD-DC2C-4F1F-83A3-C2FE3A0CED33.jpeg

“Let the silent message tell him of your inner radiance.” So THAT’s why the women's sets are called Silent and Secret Messengers! Despite the insistence that the Bouquet Lentheric formulations are “quiet but with a strange persistence,” I have always found them to be rather light.

Have you tried “patting” it on with your hands, sir?

Perfume ads of that era tend to be pretty amusing now, and may well have been then (however unintentionally). I should have captured more of the ad copy for these fragrances as I went, as some of it was pretty bonkers.

Lenthéric had a confusing tendency to repurpose names for different products. For example, Bouquet was a concentration, but there was also an actual fragrance named Bouquet. Three Musketeers was, as you note, a set sold with Tanbark cologne in the package, but Lenthéric also sold a men’s fragrance called Musketeer (which I happen to have).

Case in point: Lenthéric Cabaña. Various sources (Perfume Intelligence, Grace Hummel’s Lenthéric blog) date this fragrance to 1935. Hummel allows that Cabaña was also a presentation, and indeed it was. In fact, back in the 1930s–1940s, that’s apparently all it was: a set of three fragrances, none of them named Cabaña. (The set was Shanghai, Miracle, and Tweed.)

The evidence of ads suggests that Lenthéric introduced the fragrance Cabaña as a stand-alone in 1958, then sold in a set of “summer colognes” until 1963.

And that brings us to our SOTD:

2163EEF2-29E5-49C9-8C10-0D3D3B62EDA2.jpg

…and not much to it. Light, dry, and vegetal, like eau de celery and wilting flower. Hoping my SOTE will be better.

[hednic]

SOTE: Gengis Khan by Marc De La Morandiere

[AlphaFrank75]

SOTA: Kouros Fraîcheur (1993) by Yves Saint Laurent
YSLKourosFraicheur.jpg

[Deleanu]

Hi Deleanu ! I'm an absolute beginner in the world of scents, but to me, there are no similarities between OMS and Macassar. Macassar is far more complex, darker, deeper than OMS (which doesn't mean OMS is inferior: they are different.) I'll wait until the drydown of OMS to make up my mind.
In other words, when I believe OMS goes in one direction (great direction, however), Macassar goes in many, which makes, in a certain way, its complexity.

EDIT I just smelled the nozzle of Macassar, to compare with OMS. I can see maybe to things they share: the needle pine smell, and a peppery smell. But, when the peppery of OMS comes directly from the huge amount of pine, the one of Macassar comes from something else (which I'm unable to tell.) Other means to compare: should OMS be a colour, it would be a dark green, when Macassar is more a dark yellow, deep gold dark yellow (and by saying this, I don't refer to their juices' colour.) Or, on a musical comparison: where OMS is the horns section, Macassar is the whole orchestra.

Sorry for my bad English again, I think it is the longer text I've ever written here !

No worries Jean. I understood you by all means. Thank you kindly for your view of nose! ;-)

[The Cologne Cabinet]

SOTE: Safari for Men

IMG_7440.jpg

[thrilledchilled]

370CF245-D617-4426-881C-4FCB7B8A74EC.jpg

SOTE is L'Egoiste by Chanel

[cologne connoisseur]

Bel Ami (cocktail shaker version)

[thrilledchilled]

Bel Ami (cocktail shaker version)

Yum!

[nosey74]

SOTE - Lagerfeld Cologne Spray (Bethco) = musky bliss

IMG_7851.jpg

[PStoller]

SOTE:

66E1B464-F334-47AA-B238-522BC7B7FED6.jpg

Lenthéric - À Bientôt

Here, I can do no better than to crib from Grace Hummel:

‘(À Bientôt) was classified as a dry, heady, floral tobacco fragrance for women. It begins with a strong, cool, lemony eau de cologne top note and dries down to a rich animalic dry, tobacco leaf base.

It was described in a vintage 1938 newspaper article as "the dry mellow aroma of sun ripened tobacco leaves, expressing camaraderie, and is to be worn with bright bravado."

Top: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, rosemary, lavender, neroli
Heart: flowers, spices
Base: vetiver, musk, civet, vanilla, tobacco leaf, sandalwood, amber, leather’

So far, this description is on the money—and so is the fragrance. As disappointing as Cabaña and Tanbark were, so does À Bientôt exceed my expectations, at least in its stellar opening. Fans of vintage “butch” feminines like Tabac Blond, Cuir de Russie, and Emir would likely feel at home with this.

[N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer]

Guerlain Heliotrope Blanc
GUERLAIN HELIOTROPE BLANC.jpg

[Varanis Ridari]

IMG_20210225_185656_565.jpg

Esencia Loewe (1988)

How loewe can you goewe?

Turns out, pretty dang loewe. Wouldn't cha knoewe?

[Cook.bot]

SOTE:
Lenthéric - À Bientôt
‘(À Bientôt) was classified as a dry, heady, floral tobacco fragrance for women. It begins with a strong, cool, lemony eau de cologne top note and dries down to a rich animalic dry, tobacco leaf base.

Oh, my. That sounds like quite the yummy little dish.

There aren't enough feminine tobacco scents in the world.

[PStoller]

Oh, my. That sounds like quite the yummy little dish.

There aren't enough feminine tobacco scents in the world.

Of course, these days, this is 1) unisex, and 2) archaic. But I’ll bet if Areej le Doré put this out now (with a smidge of oudh), it’d sell for several hundred dollars an ounce.

[MiamiRobbie]

6BD460C2-38DD-47D3-BA51-FD3355E65949.jpeg

[The Cologne Cabinet]

IMG_20210225_185656_565.jpg

Esencia Loewe (1988)

How loewe can you goewe?

Turns out, pretty dang loewe. Wouldn't cha knoewe?

When you knoewe, you knoewe

[Varanis Ridari]

When you knoewe, you knoewe

That one was a bit on the noewse.