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  1. #121

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    8

    Green modern soapy-sweet fougere. A decent effort, but there's a synthy-sweet tone to this one that I find a bit cloying on the fougere structure. This note reminds me of perhaps a berry flavored bubblegum. Otherwise, it is a fairly typical aromatic, woody, green fougere. Modern and bright, even aside from the mystery sweet. I think the dominant notes might be lavender and some sort of evergreen...and I am not sure what might be responsible for the sweet tone. Possibly a sugary floral. There is a little earthy mulchiness to it, and it seems to get a little earthier heading into the base, though it reminds fairly soapy and streamlined in general.

    Due to the berry-sweet note, I'm reminded of 2 things: Rogue's Mousse Illuminee, and Imanginary Authors Cape Heartache. However, both of those are much more based on a woody structure, with the Rogue ending up very mossy and earthy. This has a similar sweetness to the opening profile, but it's overlaid on more of a soapy modern fougere structure. It's interesting, but if we're going to experiment with synthy-sweet openings over a traditional type of base, I prefer Rogue's approach, with more internal contrast between the experimental sweetness and the intense mossy-woody base.

    I think this is relatively modern, and probably niche or semi-niche. Edit: could also see something like this coming out of the 90s.
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 24th February 2021 at 06:32 PM. Reason: Typo
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Sagamore by Lancôme

  2. #122

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    8:
    Formal opening lavender citrus and soap.
    Geranium + something gives that lathery soap impression?
    Damp rolling tobacco...
    Initial thoughts were Quorum & R&G Open.
    A flanker perhaps?
    I noted that I noticed that , d-something-ol note that is present on DN. Sorta brightened it up, and added a smooth fullness to what feels like quite a dry comp.

  3. #123
    Dependent Monsieur Montana's Avatar
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Number 8

    Vintage Stuff not an EdC. There are a lot of very similar perfumes. I have the Impression that i have smelled it before, maybe even own it, but i havent tracked it down yet.
    Classical opening with Citrus and Lavender. Later on soapy/floral evolution. In the drydown maybe Cedar, Patchouli, Moss, Musk.

    All together not a bad perfume but very common (it reminds me a bunch of perfumes made in the seventies and eighties). It would make a fine office scent because the projection is very light and it's well mannered.

    My note 5-6/10

  4. #124
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample 8 was a typical men's aftershave smell to me, or electric pre-shave. Even the texture of the liquid felt like it had skin conditioners. Within a context of feeling mass market and generic, sample 8 was pretty good. It had a bit of a classic gentleman vibe and a bit of a sporty, trendy vibe. I could imagine it being used for a deodorant stick and being marketed as sporty.

  5. #125

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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    No 8: modern fougere-ish, quite synthetic smelling. Very fresh top, then gets sweeter. The drydown feels like some modern woody amber. As others were saying, this seems the most modern one in style.

  6. #126
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by Monsieur Montana View Post
    Number 8

    Vintage Stuff not an EdC. There are a lot of very similar perfumes. I have the Impression that i have smelled it before, maybe even own it, but i havent tracked it down yet.
    Classical opening with Citrus and Lavender. Later on soapy/floral evolution. In the drydown maybe Cedar, Patchouli, Moss, Musk.

    All together not a bad perfume but very common (it reminds me a bunch of perfumes made in the seventies and eighties). It would make a fine office scent because the projection is very light and it's well mannered.

    My note 5-6/10

    Monsieur Montana was spot on when he said it was vintage...
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  7. #127

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by david View Post
    Monsieur Montana was spot on when he said it was vintage...
    Interesting. Top smelled very modern to me; maybe it was ahead of its time. The base heads more into classic/vintage fougere territory.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Sagamore by Lancôme

  8. #128
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample no8 is John Player Special, (JPS).
    The first release, (1984) Black packaging with gold letters JPS on the front.
    I can't find notes listed for this fragrance.

    To my nose it has the same old-school soapy vibe as Lanvin for Men and (to a lesser degree) Versace L'Homme.

    Interestingly, there is a sticker on the base of the boxes reading "Guerlain".
    Maybe JPS comissioned them to create/produce the fragrance (?)...or act as distrubutor (?).

    To my nose it is a high quality fragrance and I can't relate to the synthetic note that many are mentioning.
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  9. #129

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by david View Post
    Sample no8 is John Player Special, (JPS).
    The first release, (1984) Black packaging with gold letters JPS on the front.
    I can't find notes listed for this fragrance.

    To my nose, it has the same old-school soapy vibe as Lanvin for Men and (to a lesser degree) Versace L'Homme.

    Interestingly, there is a sticker on the base of the boxes reading "Guerlain".
    Maybe JPS commissioned them to create/produce the fragrance (?)...or act as a distributor (?).

    To my nose, it is a high-quality fragrance and I can't relate to the synthetic note that many are mentioning.

    Completely unexpected! I wish I could have sprayed a go-go and experience the scent with more detail. Nevertheless,the notes listed on the other brother's website are Aromatic Spices, Musk, Woody Notes, and patchouli. I did not get the vintage vibe. The aroma-chemicals and flavor industry keep in secret what they do, with who they do and the ingredients, you mentioned it might be a Guerlain creation and you might be right. I remember back in my school days smoking the odd time a JPS, great flavor and luxurious packing. Also, I don't know how many tobacco companies were commercially releasing perfumes besides Davidoff and Camel eau de toilette pour Homme but it could make a good theme collecting tobacco brands perfume.
    Last edited by Descartes; 25th February 2021 at 05:31 PM.

  10. #130
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Perfume sample no9...
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  11. #131

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    I would have expected more oakmoss in the base of No/8 for a vintage feel, but to my nose it was overwhelmingly patchouli.
    Also would have expected more topnotes and florals/spices in the mid, but I just got mostly a bright lavender, with some violet leaf, and geranium.
    Quite pleasant, no faffing around, straight to the point fougere.

    ETA : no 9 was not in the UK sample box.
    Spring is coming. Selecting from : Penhaligon's Elixir, Juniper Sling; Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta pour Homme EdT, Bottega Veneta EdP; Etro Heliotrope, Gomma, Dianthus, Palais Jamais. Aramis Tuscany; Knize Knize Ten, Hermes Equipage (vtg), Bel Ami, Prada Infusion d'Iris. Decants/samples - various fougeres

  12. #132

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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    NO 9: some flowers at the beginning perhaps, but mostly incensy woody. On paper, there's also a mossy component.

    As for no 8, I would have also thought perhaps a touch more recent. The synthetic modern aspect is not in the sense of the modern woody ambery stuff, but like a touch of things like Cool water or so. Perhaps these molecules were used in small amounts in the early 80s, before other perfumes started to overdose them.

  13. #133

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    I’m going to fall a bit behind again: travel. Don’t wait for me, I will catch up Monday.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Sagamore by Lancôme

  14. #134

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    David, No 9 was not included in my samplers

  15. #135
    Dependent Monsieur Montana's Avatar
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    I also haven’t received Nr. 9

  16. #136

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Wow - John Playaaaa
    Can see(smell) the tobacco influence.

    9. wasn't in UK pack.

    Best wishes !

  17. #137
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample 9

    This did not hold my interest very much so I did not not take careful notes. As I recall, it opened with some citrus and then quickly turned into an ambroxan-y amber.

    A generic masculine or niche?

  18. #138
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample no9 only went out to american basenoters, so we just need reviews from Bavard and Jazz Live. So for the time being we can move on to no10 and I will reveal no9 after the reviews are completed.

    Let's move on to no.10 ???
    Last edited by david; 6th March 2021 at 01:22 PM.
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  19. #139

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sampler No10-

    Heliotrope, Bourbon vanilla, coconut, Tiare flower, lactonic, banana, geranium, star anise, cinnamon, patchouli, musk, sandalwood, some white florals, some resins perhaps like benzoin, moderately sweet and fresh. I found it very gourmand like bakery pastry-yeast. I thought the heliotrope was the most dominant note. I like it very much. Profumi del Forte?. It seems a modern creation to me.
    Last edited by Descartes; 28th February 2021 at 02:24 PM.

  20. #140

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    No.10 : well, that was quite an opening !
    Topnotes : cherry, almond, boozy; some citrus to keep it sharp/bright
    Mid : heliotrope, powder, iris, rose, cinnamon, spices
    Base : cedar ? patchouli, cocoa-ish, vanilla
    On skin there was leather in the drydown that seemed like the leather in Bel Ami (niiice !)

    This seemed 'modern' - not 'deep vintage' at least.
    Cartier Le Baiser du Dragon came to mind, though this is less wild.
    Spring is coming. Selecting from : Penhaligon's Elixir, Juniper Sling; Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta pour Homme EdT, Bottega Veneta EdP; Etro Heliotrope, Gomma, Dianthus, Palais Jamais. Aramis Tuscany; Knize Knize Ten, Hermes Equipage (vtg), Bel Ami, Prada Infusion d'Iris. Decants/samples - various fougeres

  21. #141

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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    No 10: incense and woods to me.

    Which has me quite puzzled-as I don't get anything that the previous reviewers do. (unless they are talking about the extrait vial...). Of course it is well possible that I mixed up the samples, or wrote down my notes incorrectly.

    cacio

  22. #142
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Number 10

    It starts with a blast of bergamot and Patchouli.
    Patchouli is the main ingredient and I detect it in all the phases.
    In the evolution it becomes sweeter possibly due vanilla accords.
    The dry down is very nice and I detect a combination of patchouli, sandalwood and amber.
    Interesting composition with high quality ingredients.
    Its probably something modern but remains faithful to old “recipes”.
    Its not the best patchouli I have ever tested but it’s a very good one and I have enjoyed wearing it.

    My note 7-8/10

  23. #143
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    On to Sample 10, which DID hold my interest.

    On me, it felt like a heavy, langorous floral. Creamy makeup powder aldehydes, orris, violet, and heliotrope.
    The base consisted of what seemed to be warm nitromusks and sweet vanillin. It had a long and satisfying drydown.


    I think this is a feminine scent and could be a vintage one. It smelled almost identical to vintage Coty L’Aimant to me.
    This was oily on the skin (parfum? bath essence?) and smelled completely different on paper.

  24. #144
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    No 10: incense and woods to me.

    Which has me quite puzzled-as I don't get anything that the previous reviewers do. (unless they are talking about the extrait vial...). Of course it is well possible that I mixed up the samples, or wrote down my notes incorrectly.

    cacio

    Thanks cacio, I don't think anyone means the extrait vial....but no10, (in the 2 ml screw top vial).

    Hoping to hear from Bavard and the others soon about no10.
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  25. #145

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    9

    A whispy green floral start. Watery, watercolored, pastel green hue. Maybe some mint an something reedy and cool, and florals I couldn't identify, as the opening was gone in a flash. It lands on something that I think is supposed to be a bare-bones cool sandalwood, maybe? Whatever it is, it's a chilly sort of note, sappy, mineralic, somewhat futuristic and plasticy. It's sort of interesting, but so thin. Seems like something CdG could have done in the Odeur and/or Synthetic Series era.

    10

    Modern powdery woods and patchouli. Very warm, almost gourmand opening, maybe with a dusty cocoa note. That leaves the scene fairly quickly and then's more of a peppery-woodsy-soft accord, maybe with some florals in there to keep it bright. Nice cool/warm and dark/light effect...contrasts. Impressive perfumery.

    A cool woody-green sort of patchouli comes in strong through the base and lends a nice earthy tone to what otherwise would be a standard sweet woody-oriental profile, vanilla and woods. I like this, and may know what it is. Or if it isn't what I think it is (a fairly recent masculine Guerlain), it's similar in many ways.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Sagamore by Lancôme

  26. #146
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample 9 - Similar to Narciso for Women / Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely, but maybe more rose-centered than those. A feminine white-musk floral.

    Sample 10 - This reminded me a bit of Shalimar and a bit of a modern amber, where it's so focused on amber that they put it in the name. It has a bit of a cola note up close, and it's powdery from a distance.

    It smells a little harsh up close for the first half hour, but nice after an hour.

  27. #147

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Ah bum, refreshed and deleted my note!

    I got these notes on me wall for #10:

    Old powerhouse or the style of - brutes that walk between genderring!
    Leather
    Musty
    Resin
    A floral leather
    Tabu and Etro Gomma came to mind.
    Powdery
    Labdanum? Oily, chewy, green brown, dense

  28. #148
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Thanks everyone for your reviews of no10.
    Time to reveal...

    It's called Patchouli no.4 (from Revarome).

    I also have Rose no.9 from them and highly recommend it.
    It's available online where prices vary from €10 - €25.
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  29. #149
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    The unlabled, (small thin vial) with dark liquid (?) Your views please ???
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  30. #150

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    I think the reviews of no 9 are complete as well. What was that one?
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."
    Currently wearing: Sagamore by Lancôme




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