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  1. #211
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample C is another interesting one. The opening brought to mind English Leather - there's a kind of older, mass market, masculine vibe to it which is tugging at my heartstrings. I don't know this specific fragrance, but it's still giving me nostalgia. It's fairly strong.

    Through three samples, I'm liking this set even more than the first one.

    This is a nice, simple, old-school woods fragrance. There is barely a drop of soap to make it a fougere. It's shaped like it would go in that direction, but there's not really a soap note. When I want to find the soap, and breathe in deep, I come away with a dark mossy smell - not soapy. Almost swampy. It has a hint of powdery velvet emerging. I'm finding this a lot of fun to sample. It's a bit of an exercise in trying something on that I might not normally wear, but good fun. This is sort of a kinder, gentler Oscar de La Renta Pour Lui.

    The person wearing this could be coming across as quietly confident. It has a relaxed feeling about it, as if there aren't all that many notes to it - a no fuss fragrance.

    In the base, it's reminding me a little of Cabochard.

    Also, the Lentheric house keeps going through my head. I think their style is similarly relaxed, or downplayed.

    Deeper into the base, I'm getting a slightly powdery rose note. I like it. It's a greenish rose at this point.

    I love this as a skin scent. It's a strange one. I think it has oak moss and a greenish rose, and I can't stop taking big inhales from where I applied it.
    Last edited by Bavard; 10th May 2021 at 05:37 PM.

  2. #212

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample C (again, this was tested briefly 5 months ago, and these are the notes I made back then) :

    Top : Vegetal, green, stemmy, leafy, herby - possibly in the artemisia family, citrus
    Mid : drier, something fresh/minty/cool (geranium, violet leaf), green tobacco note ??, carnation, 'floral gums' (a vintage UK sweet)
    Base : woody, green vetiver, a bit of moss

    I enjoyed this. It got even better as it dried down and developed.
    It was more assertive on skin than on the test strip, and the mid notes arrived faster.
    The opening reminded me somewhat of Devin, but nowhere as sweet (thankfully).
    Vaguely reminiscent of Rogue's Le Canotier (which also has the 'floral gum' note, and vetiver), but far more 'modern'
    Summer is here : greens, vetiver, aromatics. Selecting from : Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta pour Homme EdT; Guerlain Vetiver, Etro Palais Jamais. Aramis Tuscany; Penhaligon's Juniper Sling; Knize Sec; Caron Yatagan; . Evening : Etro Ambra, Etro Shaal Nur; Knize Ten, Penhaligon's Elixir.
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  3. #213

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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    incense and heliotrope and others:
    regarding sample B, the leather to me is more of the musky-floral-sweet variety, so prunol likely. But it's very fast.

    Regarding cashmeran, I think this is one molecule that people perceive differently, and it's more a matter of impression/feel rather than smelling like a particular thing per se. To me it's a bit chalky, dry, and coldish, but other people perceive it very differently. I did have some fof that impression when smelling this, but not too much. And it is of course entirely possible that this effect is given by some other synthetic like some other woody amber.

    cacio

  4. #214
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample C

    Old school sharp green floral leather chypre. I think it starts with a whole heap of crunchy galbanum, aldehypes, and various bright green herbal/floral notes. Probably bergamot, maybe something like basil or tarragon, geranium, etc. Direct and cutting up top, a green scalpel. I am thinking of the openings of scents ranging from Bandit to Alliage (or Devin) to to Scherrer to Bogart Signature. Or even VC&A Pour Homme.

    The the heart, florals open up a little more (I can't identify them, but it's smelling like classic dry-green floral heart, maybe involving rose and jasmine), and it gets a little softer, but it's still very assertive and sharp overall, no nonsense. There might be a little spice creeping in...carnation?

    Base seems like a dry mossy leather. A little dirty...musky/maybe civet. Vetiver, oakmoss (a heap of it), probably patchouli, and a taut sort of leather, again reminding me of Scherrer. A lot.

    Is this Jean-Luis Scherrer? I would compare, but my sample is all gone ...It is on my buy list.

    I would be very surprised if this isn't vintage, and I would guess 60s-70s era feminine chypre. This one is excellent for fans of this style, of which I am one.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  5. #215
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    My notes on C are very brief. Just a quick take...

    Fresh bergamot and pine on top
    greenish rose (damascone) in the middle
    civettone in the base

    Following Live Jazz’ line of reasoning, I don’t think C is Scherrer by Scherrer, which I wear often in the vintage EDT and parfum, but it does seem to fall into a similar genre.

  6. #216

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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample C: old style coniferous, green-woody, chypre. Quite dry and foresty. A bit rough around the edges perhaps, but I like this style.

  7. #217
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Interesting reviews on C. I haven’t received it.

  8. #218
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Sample C: old style coniferous, green-woody, chypre. Quite dry and foresty. A bit rough around the edges perhaps, but I like this style.
    I like all the interest and curiosity concerning C. Personally, this description from cacio sums it up perfectly for me.
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  9. #219
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by Monsieur Montana View Post
    Interesting reviews on C. I haven’t received it.
    I'm sure I gave you a sample of this a few years back. If so, hopefully you will be able to add a review when it is revealed !
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  10. #220
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by david View Post
    I'm sure I gave you a sample of this a few years back. If so, hopefully you will be able to add a review when it is revealed !
    I “ll take your word on this. I “ll be glad to review it but it won’t be blind anymore

  11. #221
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Ok, in guess mode now.

    Aramis 900?
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  12. #222
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Okay, time to reveal...

    Basenotes lists this as a 1985 release, but most other websites say 1982 (?)

    It's LANCETTI UOMO.

    Notes:
    Top - mint, galbanum, absynthe, lavender, artemesia, clary sage, thyme, nutmeg and lemon.
    Middle - jasmine, oakmoss.
    Base - patchouli, animal notes, labdanum, sandalwood, ambergris, leather and cedarwood.

    To my nose this is a heavy complex mix. I get what cacio means with, "rough around the edges" and, "dry and coniferous - foresty".
    It is powerful and heavy hitting, the sort of fragrance you can't wear on an empty stomach.
    It's also very much a love or hate fragrance in the same way Yatagan is.

    Interestingly, it must have been one of the first mens fragrances to be offered in edp format as well as edt. I own both and love both, but I have to be in a special mood to wear it. The extreme dry forest aspect can be overwhelming.

    The sample that was tested was the edt strength.
    Last edited by david; 18th May 2021 at 05:55 PM.
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  13. #223
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    This is the second of the pass that I’d buy if I came across it for a reasonable price, after #6.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  14. #224

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    This is the second of the pass that I’d buy if I came across it for a reasonable price, after #6.
    Your tastes are indeed similar to mine. I didn't realise you were so keen on #6.
    Summer is here : greens, vetiver, aromatics. Selecting from : Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta pour Homme EdT; Guerlain Vetiver, Etro Palais Jamais. Aramis Tuscany; Penhaligon's Juniper Sling; Knize Sec; Caron Yatagan; . Evening : Etro Ambra, Etro Shaal Nur; Knize Ten, Penhaligon's Elixir.
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  15. #225
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by incense+heliotrope View Post
    Your tastes are indeed similar to mine. I didn't realise you were so keen on #6.
    Ooops, I looked back and it was actually #7 that I loved, with its spiced incense, but #6 was pretty wild and also sticks in my memory. Less of a love, more of a fascination with that one.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  16. #226
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample D ???
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  17. #227

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample D :
    Opening : quite heavy to start with - wooden floor polish, spicy (cinnamon, clove - or carnation), rose or geranium, almond/heliotrope (again); feels a tad syrupy
    Mid : freshens/lightens up, perhaps with the geranium; sandalwood; a bit powdery; cherry/almond/heliotrope
    Base : balsamic, vanilla, tonka, rosewood, amber, a bit boozy/liqueur-ish. I have smelt this drydown before... what is it ?

    Heavy, almost gelatinous. EdP strength.
    The sillage was monstrous. Longevity was massive, and it did not scrub off.
    Summer is here : greens, vetiver, aromatics. Selecting from : Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta pour Homme EdT; Guerlain Vetiver, Etro Palais Jamais. Aramis Tuscany; Penhaligon's Juniper Sling; Knize Sec; Caron Yatagan; . Evening : Etro Ambra, Etro Shaal Nur; Knize Ten, Penhaligon's Elixir.
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  18. #228
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    I don't seem to have a sample D. Just A, B,C, Y, Z.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  19. #229

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample C:
    eau de cologne, floral, lavender, jasmine, musk, herbal, fern, petitgrain, oakmoss, geranium, chamomile. elegant

    Sample D:
    Gourmand, marzipan, vanilla, coffee, patchouli, lavender, woody, amber, neroli

  20. #230

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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Lancetti. Period and country are those of my teenage years-something reminded me of that old style. I don't think I ever wore that, but that style must have been around. Oldish italian perfumes tended to gravitate towards foresty coniferous, I guess the legacy of acqua di selva and pino silvestre. But here amped up by the chypre base and the 80s power.

    I don't have D either.

    cacio

  21. #231
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample D

    Very gourmand right from the start. At the top notes I also detect Lavender and Bergamot.
    A few minutes later the vanilla appears on the scene and stays there all the way to the end.
    There is also a stark medicinal accord which goes hand in hand with the vanilla for almost half an hour.
    At a later point I think I think I detect leather. I say I think because in the past I have also smelled this accord in other perfumes and I was almost sure it is leather but it wasn't. So I am being careful with this.
    In the later evolution I detect cinnamon next to vanilla and this is the sweetest part of the evolution.
    In the dry down phase the vanilla is still there but not alone. I also detect patchouli and tonca bean.
    Summa sammarum the perfume is not for me. It is a gourmand, vanilla centrered perfume and I like vanilla only in small, not lasting doses.
    If you like vanilla this is something you should try or even buy.
    For the sake of the blind testing I kept it on my skin till the end. On another occasion I would have washed it away after the first 30 minutes.

    My note: 2-3/10

    MM

  22. #232

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by Monsieur Montana View Post
    For the sake of the blind testing I kept it on my skin till the end. On another occasion I would have washed it away after the first 30 minutes.
    This.
    Summer is here : greens, vetiver, aromatics. Selecting from : Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta pour Homme EdT; Guerlain Vetiver, Etro Palais Jamais. Aramis Tuscany; Penhaligon's Juniper Sling; Knize Sec; Caron Yatagan; . Evening : Etro Ambra, Etro Shaal Nur; Knize Ten, Penhaligon's Elixir.
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  23. #233
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    I don’t think I received D, but it seems intriguing...

  24. #234
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Okay, it's a shame that I did not send sample D to everyone. Sorry about that.
    Time to reveal...

    Sample D is: J'S Exte Man (2006)

    To my nose this is pretty much a clone of the iconic Eau Noire, (Dior Private Collection)...which is great because Eau Noire is discontinued and this stuff is cheap !

    In J'S Exte the top notes are thyme and oregano, whereas in Eau Noire they are thyme and sage. These herb notes create the infamous 'Maggie seasoning' vibe which is so polarising - making it a love/hate fragrance.
    Personally I love both J'S and Eau Noire. To me they are 'in your face' hippy juice fragrances with an almost extrait strength. The first time I smelled EN on someone I had to know what it was. It felt like a home made perfume of essential oils, so I was shocked when the guy told me it was from Dior/ exclusive line !!!

    A lot of reviewers on fragrantica compare this to Dior Homme...which I don't get at all.
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  25. #235
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    On to the last 2 samples, Y and Z...to be reviewed together (and to see if there are similarities ?)
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  26. #236

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample D was..... interesting. I would not have thought it was a version of a Dior (only acquainted with Eau Sauvage, Fahrenheit, and DHI).
    Summer is here : greens, vetiver, aromatics. Selecting from : Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta pour Homme EdT; Guerlain Vetiver, Etro Palais Jamais. Aramis Tuscany; Penhaligon's Juniper Sling; Knize Sec; Caron Yatagan; . Evening : Etro Ambra, Etro Shaal Nur; Knize Ten, Penhaligon's Elixir.
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  27. #237

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample Y :
    Top : citrussy, cress, herby, basil, fresh, peppery, aniseed, slightly savoury, watery, florals
    Mid : spices, nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom; chilli/green bell pepper; carrot/iris; a LOT of carnation
    Base : musk, mossy, powdery
    Reminded me a bit of Hermes Eau de Gentiane Blanc.

    Sample Z :

    Top : lavender, minty geranium, a very strong jasmine, white narcissus, fresh, floral, green
    Mid : watery, iris, turns more savoury towards the base
    Base : musk, woods

    I could find no similarity between these two, apart from the slightly 'savoury' twist, and watery aspect.
    Summer is here : greens, vetiver, aromatics. Selecting from : Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta pour Homme EdT; Guerlain Vetiver, Etro Palais Jamais. Aramis Tuscany; Penhaligon's Juniper Sling; Knize Sec; Caron Yatagan; . Evening : Etro Ambra, Etro Shaal Nur; Knize Ten, Penhaligon's Elixir.
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  28. #238
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample Y - Fantastic, and a typical fragrance from this pass. Light, confident, old school, soapy, woods. It leans masculine and it's relatively light.

    Sample Z - No good to wear with Y. It's like a harsh flanker of Acqua di Gio, a bit like Essenza. So harsh in the opening. Punishing, really, this version. Will it soften, and how long will it take?

    It softens after an hour or two, and it becomes wearable, but it's not my favorite style, being so harsh in the opening.
    Last edited by Bavard; 7th June 2021 at 08:30 PM.

  29. #239
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Y

    A very nice lemony-herbal chypre. Bracing, not sweet, probably vintage, or at least it's very vintage in style and personality. From memory, it reminds of YSL Pour Homme the most, or maybe Monsieur de Givenchy, things along those lines. Clean, classic, suave, has gravitas. There is a distinct aromatic dry sort of green astringency to this, and a bright dusting of spice, maybe black pepper, mace, etc....it augments the crispness of the citrus-herbal. I wonder if one of the citruses is perhaps grapefruit?

    Stout woody-moss base. I get a tiny wisp of woodsmoke.

    I really like this style, and this scent.

    Z

    I could convince myself there's a relationship between this and Y, perhaps in the green-aromatic-astringent component. But it's a fairly distant relationship, if it's there. This is generally a greener scent, and obviously more modern in feel. I think there is calone here, used nicely...a crisp green aquatic. I quite like this, even though aquatics are not typically my thing. There is a maturity to this one, an aromatic/earthy/green depth that I like a lot.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  30. #240

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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Y: as others were saying. An old-style citrus, herbal, a bit sharp, and dry. Probably what went for fresh sporty back then.




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