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  1. #1
    david's Avatar
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    Red face A second round of blind testing...

    Wishing everyone a safe and fun 2021 !

    I have started another round of blind testing. I think this one will be more interesting because samples have been sent out to both american members and european members.
    Also, this time round the perfumes are all, (apart from one) relatively well known brands on a national/ international level. Nevertheless, I think most of them have slipped under the radar and remain unknown.

    The samples have not long been sent out, so there will be a long gap between the first reviews/ descriptions and and the last testers review...afterwhich the name of the fragrance will be revealed. Please keep checking the thread to see as each perfume is named.

    Thanks to everyone taking part !
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  2. #2
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Perfume no1 :
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  3. #3

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    No1: Arabian jasmine or Sambac jasmine; neroli, white florals, mimosa, lily, green, snapped leaves, foliage, peppery, oakmoss, sweet, soft, feminine.

  4. #4

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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    NO 1: to my nose, sweet deep citrus. floral lemony top, then very long lasting, sweetish hearth, probably with a light chypre base.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Descartes and cacio, nice descriptions, but how do you rate the fragrance ?...(uniqueness/ quality/ collection worthy, etc ?).
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  6. #6
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Blind testing! Fun!
    I smell.

  7. #7

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Personally, I would not add it to my collection despite liking and wearing white florals like jasmine, tuberose, Tiare flower, mimosa, etc, etc. The fragrance suits a young person or a female with an introverted or shy personality, too feminine for a man I think, for me, a white floral fragrance has to be more challenging, for example, The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit a rather edible gourmand jasmine. N1 is well blended but with weak projection, not very original, as a jasmine lover, my choice is for pure Indian Sambac jasmine oil.
    Last edited by Descartes; 6th January 2021 at 07:24 PM.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Blind testing is fun. I'm trying sample 1. The initial smell made me think of an Eau de Cologne - something along the lines of Nicolai Cologne Solonge.

    I mostly like it. If I were starting with no perfume, it is something I would consider for my collection.

    Another perfume coming to mind - a bit of a stretch, maybe - but Goutal Grand Amour. That came to mind thinking of what else I have that somewhat covers this ground.

    I could believe this is something from the updated feminine Diors - Les Creations de Monsieur Dior - it's reminding me a little of the updated Diorama.

    Uniqueness - 0 to 2
    Quality - 8 (I'm not great at this. I often think of a perfume as a perfect version of itself, so the idea of rating it 10 flashed through my mind - somewhere between 6 and 10).
    Collection worthiness for myself at this time - 2 to 4

    I like sample 1. I'm a fan. I think it's a well-done, light, Eau-de-Cologne floral. I can't really pick out anything I don't like.

    I'm trying the others, and keeping notes offline until the others have tried them. Having tried the next couple, I'm really enjoying this set so far.
    Last edited by Bavard; 14th January 2021 at 01:08 PM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Bottle No. 1.
    Projection : skin scent
    Sillage : almost none (couldn't smell it at all when wafting the strip)
    Longevity : vaguely, 30-60 mins, but hangs on for longer on skin. Does it get more persistent the longer you wear it ?
    None of these are usually concerns of mine when assessing fragrance, but in this case.....

    Notes I picked up : Opening is a bit 'perfumey', and then green/leafy. A hint of orange (not a lemony citrus), orange blossom, neroli; a bit of jasmine. Clean musk in the base, if there is a base. A bit soapy (the neroli). Gets a slight powderiness in the heart. Not especially sweet, though (no tonka or vanilla), nor does it have the backbone/structure that oakmoss might impart.
    Has to be eau de cologne strength, though it does not have enough bite/attack in the opening to be an 'eau de cologne'.
    Would need to overspray to get a result, but that would ruin/unbalance the experience.
    Clean, tasteful, innocuous, unassuming. Hotel toiletries, neutral enough for everyone. Unisex; slightly more fem, perhaps.
    Virgin bridal vibes (probably the orange blossom associations).

    My guess is that it is a current release (within the last 10 years).
    The quality is good; I'd say it's from a designer-level house (Hermes, Chanel, Dior, Guerlain, Prada maybe).
    But it's not a Hermes Eau, as style and base are not Hermes.
    Doesn't have the classic Guerlainade accord either.
    Possibly a post-2015 Prada Infusion (I couldn't smell much of any of those when I tried them in store)

    I am guessing it's from one of the designer-ish ranges of discreet cologne-strength scents aimed mostly at the growing east Asian market - I'm not familiar with these. Serge Lutens' concept of 'eaux de politesse' applies, but this is a more conventional/classic scent in terms of the white floral notes (and obviously it's not a Lutens).

    This would not have a place in my Wardrobe. Not my style, and does not suit the weather here.
    Last edited by incense+heliotrope; 22nd January 2021 at 11:34 AM.
    Spring is coming. Selecting from : Penhaligon's Elixir, Juniper Sling; Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta pour Homme EdT, Bottega Veneta EdP; Etro Heliotrope, Gomma, Dianthus, Palais Jamais. Aramis Tuscany; Knize Knize Ten, Hermes Equipage (vtg), Bel Ami, Prada Infusion d'Iris. Decants/samples - various fougeres
    Currently wearing: Beach Hut Man by Amouage

  10. #10
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Hello all—

    Bavard kindly looped me into this Blind Sampling project organized by David. He knows well that blind sampling is a favorite pastime for me! I’m going to follow the instructions to post notes on Sample 1 only at this time. I will be testing on paper and skin.

    Sample 1

    A transparent colorless liquid that performs as a very light and fairly simple citrus cologne. The opening topnote is fresh and tangy and reminded me of grapefruit or petitgrain. Dries down quickly to hedione or a white musk. If I try hard, I think I may be picking up a very faint frankincense note. I do not perceive any vividly realistic floral notes, except for the jasmine nuances of the hedione.

    Immediately upon application, the scent projects on my skin to about six inches away (from two 2 dabs applied on wrist and inside elbow). There is hardly any sillage from the dabs on the paper. 10 minutes after application, the sillage on skin is down to 2 inches, and the paper has no sillage, even when wafted energetically. I must put nose to paper to smell anything. The citrus lingers fairly well on skin, albeit in a very subtle way. Gradually, the scent resolves into a lingering hedione note.

    Nothing offensive here but I don’t think I would ever purchase this. It feels genderless to me, wearable by anyone looking to freshen up. I could see spraying it on freely on summer days, but even in very hot weather, I prefer to wear perfumes with more of a presence than this.

    I will keep working my way through the samples and noting my thoughts. Thanks again for including me in the game!

  11. #11
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Thanks grayspoole, I'm really happy that you are joining us !
    I think everyone is going to be quite surprised with the name of this perfume.
    Just waiting for one more review, then all will be revealed.
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  12. #12

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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    I forgot to add the additional info. Not very unique, similar to other citruses with flowers. Quality: simple but good. I would buy if not too expensive.

    I see that people tend to pick up more florals than orange from this.

    cacio

  13. #13

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Hey all. Thanks you and honored to be taking part!

    OK Sample 1:
    Fairly straightforward to me nose - cologney. A little bit of creamines and flora come through. Has a tiny tiny skank to it (my skins perhaps) - made me think of one of the Hermes colognes - Noir i think? Any of these samples aged at all? I often get 'that' fuzzy BO skank with stuff thats been stewing far too long!
    At distance - a slight citric prickliness - as per Mugler cologne - yet nowehere as strong.

    More depth and quality than 4711
    Not as creamy,perfumey or floral as say Quercus
    My closest ref point is the Hermes Cologne.
    Currently wearing: Worth pour Homme by Worth

  14. #14

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by david View Post
    Just waiting for one more review, then all will be revealed.
    My bad - we're on!
    Currently wearing: Worth pour Homme by Worth

  15. #15
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    There is a fourth person in line to try the US samples, after Grayspoole.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by Ifti View Post
    Hey all. Thanks you and honored to be taking part!

    OK Sample 1:
    Fairly straightforward to me nose - cologney. A little bit of creamines and flora come through. Has a tiny tiny skank to it (my skins perhaps) - made me think of one of the Hermes colognes - Noir i think? Any of these samples aged at all? I often get 'that' fuzzy BO skank with stuff thats been stewing far too long!
    At distance - a slight citric prickliness - as per Mugler cologne - yet nowehere as strong.

    More depth and quality than 4711
    Not as creamy,perfumey or floral as say Quercus
    My closest ref point is the Hermes Cologne.
    Thanks for your views Ifti !
    Regarding age of samples, they have been well stored and I don't think any have turned...others have not mentioned, so it may be your imagination (?) Hope so !!
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  17. #17
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    There is a fourth person in line to try the US samples, after Grayspoole.
    Okay, but because this is going a bit slow and people lose interest in the thread, I'm going to reveal sample no1...and I think when the name is mentioned you will all be surprised, but I need to explain first...

    Firstly, I should have sent a larger amount out for testing and I do feel that it no1 has been underestimated because of this. It's a shame.

    I give 3 sprays and it lasts me for 6 hours or longer, with good sillage too. The next day I can still smell the fragrance on clothes.

    The fragrance is from Perlier, a well known brand in Italy and France and I believe I have seen the giant 1 litre matching shower gels for sale at TK/ TJ Maxx outlets in various countries.
    On to the name of the fragrance which will surprise many, (but I have a theory about this)... "Sandalo del Kashmir" from Perlier does not smell of sandalwood, (I think most would agree) but in the drydown there is guaiac wood. I'm assuming the name was intended to give an impression of a sandalwood variant, (hence the reference to Kashmir)...all down to marketing for punters who want something different. So they used guaiac wood to suggest a 'green' sandalwood.

    The reason I liked this fragrance so much, (and actually bought several back up bottles) is because to my nose there was an instant connection to Aromatics Elixir from Clinique, (although toned down and with an added dose of sweet, waxy tangerine). I really like this mixture + the green guaiac. With 3 decent sprays it is really alive and the fragrance seems to keep on going throughout the day. So of course I was surprised that it was considered by everyone as a skinscent. I agree that it's cologne strenght, but 3 sprays gives good performance.
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  18. #18

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    How interesting ! Just goes to show that the amount and method of application can make such a difference to perceptions of a fragrance.
    Perlier is a brand I've only seen as skincare/bath products in the UK, perhaps the honey-scented line.
    Spring is coming. Selecting from : Penhaligon's Elixir, Juniper Sling; Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta pour Homme EdT, Bottega Veneta EdP; Etro Heliotrope, Gomma, Dianthus, Palais Jamais. Aramis Tuscany; Knize Knize Ten, Hermes Equipage (vtg), Bel Ami, Prada Infusion d'Iris. Decants/samples - various fougeres
    Currently wearing: Beach Hut Man by Amouage

  19. #19
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by incense+heliotrope View Post
    How interesting ! Just goes to show that the amount and method of application can make such a difference to perceptions of a fragrance.
    Perlier is a brand I've only seen as skincare/bath products in the UK, perhaps the honey-scented line.
    Yes, especially in the case of this particular fragrance. Dosage seems all important.
    Interestingly, I located Sandalo del Kashmir on the parfumo website directory, where it says in brackets, (Elixir Parfum) For Men...wonder if that's a hint towards what they are achieving > Aromatics Elixir/ Aramis 900 (?).
    There are two versions of this fragrance. The one that has been tested here is the elegant black aluminium can. There is also a "Sandalwood aus Kashmir" edt, also from Perlier, which is in the form of a glass flacon and appears to be geared toward a german speaking market.
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  20. #20

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Wozza - didn't see that!
    Got keepers guilt - I think I'mthe last UK/EU tester - will surely have to havea decent splosh of this.
    Rang a bell - but I was thinking of Tesori d oriente sandalo. Often wondered about this - curious about the aerosol can for perfume. I & H - spot on - application is everything!
    Currently wearing: Worth pour Homme by Worth

  21. #21
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Let's go on to sample no2 !
    There are 3 lots of samples going around, but due to limited amounts of some of the fragrances not everyone received sample no2...
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  22. #22

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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    No 2: we're still in fresh classic territory. It starts slightly aromatic, almost fougereish fresh, then it becomes sweeter and citrusy, and a bit more synthetic woody. Not disagreeable, but nothing interesting either.

    Re: no 1, yes, surprising what it was. As an italian, I've seen perlier products, but I never paid attention to the perfumes. The name doesn't make sense, not just because it's no sandalwood. Apart from the fact that they are both in india, sandalwood and kashmir have nothing to do with each other. Probably, they had a few formulas, somebody else in the firm made up evocative names, then they poured without regard to the content. If there is more than one batch, I wonder if they even pour the same liquid in a given bottle. Perhaps not...

    Still, Perlier is very cheap, so if the price was as expected, this is worth buying for me.

  23. #23

    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    David: I am surprised you don't mention jasmine on n1 as many of us noticed, I could not smell any Guaiac wood which is sweet balsamic vanilla-like to woody smoky, leathery, tar-like, personally, jasmine was the most prominent note.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by Descartes View Post
    David: I am surprised you don't mention jasmine on n1 as many of us noticed, I could not smell any Guaiac wood which is sweet balsamic vanilla-like to woody smoky, leathery, tar-like, personally, jasmine was the most prominent note.
    Thanks for your review and after thoughts. I really appreciate this type of discussion. I'm convinced that everyone's sense of smell is individually tuned and with varying individual judgement upon smelling any said perfume. When I first sprayed Sandalo del Kashmir my first and immediate impression was, Aromatics Elixir/ Aramis 900 !!! So for me it's very surprising that nobody testing got that connection. I did notice a description on the back of the bottle that says, "invigorating exotic notes, into an 'elixir' with extraordinary 'aromatic' properties"...almost as if they are hinting to punters as to what the fragrance is about. My nose gets the guiaic wood note very clearly from the beginning. Maybe my nose is overlooking the jasmine by skipping straight to the Aromatics Elixir and Aramis 900 which both contain jasmine (?).
    I love the way peoples description of the very same perfume can be so different. I'm sure the thread will continue this way !
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  25. #25
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    No 2: we're still in fresh classic territory. It starts slightly aromatic, almost fougereish fresh, then it becomes sweeter and citrusy, and a bit more synthetic woody. Not disagreeable, but nothing interesting either.

    Re: no 1, yes, surprising what it was. As an italian, I've seen perlier products, but I never paid attention to the perfumes. The name doesn't make sense, not just because it's no sandalwood. Apart from the fact that they are both in india, sandalwood and kashmir have nothing to do with each other. Probably, they had a few formulas, somebody else in the firm made up evocative names, then they poured without regard to the content. If there is more than one batch, I wonder if they even pour the same liquid in a given bottle. Perhaps not...

    Still, Perlier is very cheap, so if the price was as expected, this is worth buying for me.

    Thanks cacio ! Hopefully more descriptions of no2 will follow.
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  26. #26
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    David's sample #2 is like a version of Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, but with an added "tea" note, such as chamomile. It could be something such as Patrick by Fragrances of Ireland. Similar to sample 1, I would give it low marks for uniqueness, but better marks for quality.

    They both have a soap note. Sample 1 is like a soap made for women and sample 2 is like a soap made for men.

    This is stronger than sample 1, which was light. This is a regular strength men's fragrance, interesting, warm, and complex.

    Sample 2 smells like it's trying to get at something leathery, but like there'a an additive that doesn't quite work. The soap note is spot on for the traditional fougere - an 80s type men's fragrance - but the glitch with the leather (or whatever they're calling the warmer aspect of this) makes it feel like less of a success - but just barely. In moments it can smell just right.

    When I smell it with the soap note - it works. When I just get the underlying warmth, it can smell slightly off.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Hi all—

    I am in possession of one of the US sets but I have completed my tests and will mail them to Live Jazz next. Hopefully tomorrow morning but we are in the middle of another snowstorm.

    Sample 1 Revisited

    At David’s suggestion, I transferred some to a small atomizer and had a good couple of sprays. The projection and duration was much better. The scent remained predominantly citrus with a transparent woodiness in the base. This combination suggested a light touch of frankincense to me, and I would say that was still true in my second test. I don’t experience the connection to Aromatics Elixir which, in my memory, possesses a fairly vivid dark rose note, but I do think Sample 1 would be a very nice summer scent.

    Sample 2

    At the start, I get bergamot, perhaps a touch of pine, and a lot of creamy soap. Not the smell of Ivory soap or Pears soap but a bar of old fashioned Camay The creamy soapy aldehydes are especially evident on the paper (The scent is much better on skin than paper, by the way.) Some lovely herbal notes begin to appear about 10 minutes into my test. I am thinking of thyme or sweet woodruff or grass. This phase is delightful and unusual. After a half hour or so, I began to get some subtle fruit and flowers. Perhaps a peachy tropical flower note such as osmanthus or ylang ylang. After about an hour, the scent settled down into a slightly smoky amber or tobacco. Overall, I found that Sample 2 went through its phases very quickly and was not an especially heavy composition. The topnotes had some unusual touches that I appreciated but the drydown felt rather familiar.

    I would judge this to be a contemporary scent marketed to men or perhaps a unisex niche.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Thanks to all 3 american reviewers, ( I know Jazz Live will be receiveing them soon, but I'm going to reveal the fragrance and he can comment later).

    Sample no2 notes: Top - lavender, bergamot / Middle - carnation, cinnamon / Base - oakmoss, tonka bean, amber

    It's a 1982 release - Grès Monsieur

    Sadly, this fragrance seems to have gone unoticed. Only 2 reviews on basenotes and 3 on fragrantica. Of the 3 on fragrantica it's described as "a masterpiece"/ "one of the finest" and "just sublime all the way through the drydown"
    In the comparison chart on fragrantica it's voted by 2 reviewers as being similar to Ebène from Balmain, (though personally I find it to be much more subdued than Ebène and without the spearmint note).
    I'm very curious to know the nose behind this creation which is not listed on the websites, (anyone ?).

    Also, I have to emphasise here that it was a huge mistake for me to only give 2 ml size samples to be passed around and shared. Nobody was able to have even a single proper wearing and a review based on a couple of dabs is almost impossible. I do apologise for this and next time I will send out larger spray samples.

    Now we can move on to sample no3...
    Only dead fish swim with the current...
    <div class="bnsotd"><b>Currently wearing:</b> <a href="ID26120772.html"><img src="http://www.basenotes.net/photos/products/33/26120772-4846.jpg"> Héritage Eau de Toilette by Guerlain</a></div>

  29. #29
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    Sample #3 was my pick of the bunch. It was close enough to Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree, for me, that I was on the fence about whether it actually was Pour Monsieur Concentree.

    If there's a difference, Sample 3 has more of the roasted patchouli smell of something like Zino, Versace L'Homme, or Pacoma Gatsby and maybe less vanilla (although it takes time to see how much vanilla is in the mix, when the lighter notes have burned off). "Micallef" keeps coming to mind, from something I sampled a while back, as the house that might have made Sample 3.

    Really nice perfume. Yes something I would buy and wear. I feel like I already do wear it because it is at least a great approximation of vintage Chanel Pour Monsieur Concentree, which I like.

    I was getting a touch of the gummy resin smell that I get from things such as Jean Marie Farina edc from Roger and Gallet.

    If Sample 3 is not Pour Monsieur Concentree, it is possibly an upgrade. I got in a second wearing with the sample, and I was loving the opening just as much or more the second time.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: A second round of blind testing...

    On to Sample 3 already? Yikes!

    Sample 3

    I found the carmelized tobacco opening very nice, and I immediately began to get a Guerlain vibe from this one…or a Guerlain wannabe vibe. I felt that the base had a lot of creamy sandalwood but it certainy wasn’t as floral (jasmine-y) as Samsara. I began to think it might be Habit Rouge, so I tried a comparison with a Habit Rouge sample that I have receivef from another Basenoter (from you Bavard? I can’t remember!). Sample 3 was not as leathery as HR in the middle phase but the late drydowns were identical on my skin.

    So fairly contemporary, masculine, and enjoyable.




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