If we were to create a fragrance 'canon', what would be included?

[slpfrsly]

I'm sure this question has been asked before, perhaps under a different guise, such as 'the best fragrances one should try'; that said, I thought it might be interesting to ask it again, under a more specific notion of wondering whether we can create a canonical 'list', and/or approach, to perfume.

Personally, I'm dubious about the notion of fragrance as 'art', per se, but I see many refer to it as such. Evidently there is something artistic about perfume, at the very least, and for all the 'postmodern' developments in perfume over the last, say, 20-30 years, where anti-perfume seems to be as popular or even more popular than the idea of creating something neo-classical, there is evidently a lot of love for what may be deemed the 'golden age' of perfume and the vintage fragrances that were created in that era. That's not to say that the list must solely be 'classical' perfumes, or comprised of vintage fragrances, but it surely has to be built upon the foundational concepts and creation of fragrance (or does it?).

So, if we can all agree that there is at the very least something artistic about perfume, for the sake of argument: if there were to be an attempt to include fragrance in the canon...

- how would you/we/whoever decide what is included, and the reasoning behind any inclusion/exclusion?

- what would you choose to be included (and excluded), and why?

Bit of a heavy one, I know, but hopefully something to sink your teeth in to if/when you have the time!

[Kaern]

I've gone back about 35 years and they are all masculines. I think they represent either movements away from the norm and so are quite bold/daring or are very typical examples of what the big houses think will sell in astonishing amounts, so making them interesting for that reason alone.

I don't actually like all of these, but, for me, they are all fascinating and should at least be tested and be included in any 'canon' of male fragrances. I have hardly touched any 'niche'.

Versace - L'Homme (original)
Rive Gauche PH
Habit Rouge
M7 Fresh
Cool Water
Fahrenheit
Bulgari Black
Jubilation XXV
Derby
1Million
Bleu
A*Men
Terre d'Hermes
Dior Homme
Aventus

[slpfrsly]

Well I'd tentatively add 4711's Eau de Cologne should be a good starting point. Hopefully for obvious reasons.

[hednic]

Versace - L'Homme (original)
Rive Gauche PH
Habit Rouge
M7 Fresh
Cool Water
Fahrenheit
Bulgari Black
Jubilation XXV
Derby
1Million
Bleu
A*Men
Terre d'Hermes
Dior Homme
Aventus

This is a good representation.

[The Cologne Cabinet]

I'll start with the letter A -


Aramis EDC
il_1140xN.2261667935_6gi9.jpg

Azzaro Pour Homme EDT
IMG_5875 (1).jpg

Avon for Men Cologne
1554203148399.jpg

[Danny Mitchell]

Alphabetical canon, that's a great idea. Good call.
For modern canon, I'd include Acqua Di Gio.

[Orangecloud]

I think fragrance has closer ties to fashion rather than art. Look at the 80s fashion which was brash, loud, garish sexuality, very much like the fragrances such as Poison and Jovan Musk.

[chypre]

For canonical works, I tend to think of legendary fragrances that define a fragrance family or an era. For example:

Jicky - the first modern perfume to use synthetics
Mitsouko - reference chypre
Shalimar - reference oriental
Chanel No. 5 - reference aldehyde and probably still the most well-known perfume in the world
Jean Patou Joy - legendary floral, marketed as the ultimate luxury in fragrance for decades ("costliest perfume in the world" etc)
Opium - legendary spicy oriental evocative of the 80s
L'Eau d'Issey - launched the aquatic trend
Angel - launched the gourmand trend (bad Mugler, bad!)