Azzaro Pour Homme: Yesterday & Today (Reference Guide)

[The Cologne Cabinet]

azzaro5.jpg
Azzaro Pour Homme: Yesterday & Today (Reference Guide)

Azzaro pour Homme is an institution: it's one of the most famous perfumes ever created. In the middle of the 1980s "Azzaro pour Homme" and "Drakkar Noir" by Guy Laroche accounted for almost 40% of all male perfume sales. During those years, if you wanted to buy a perfume for men, you had to choose between "Azzaro" and "Drakkar Noir"....

There are several different noses apparently claiming to have contributed to its creation (namely: Gérard Anthony, Martin Heiddenreich, Richard Wirtz, and probably others) plus several urban legends surrounding the creation of "Azzaro pour Homme".

We will probably never know the true story behind this perfume, but the legends are quite fascinating. The whole project was almost discarded for several reasons: Loris Azzaro, a well-known couturier "pour femmes" was dubious in being involved in a perfume "pour homme"; apart from this, perfumers wanted the new scent to be better than "Paco Rabanne pour Homme" (the real benchmark for male perfumery in those years), but the formula was too complex at nearly 320 ingredients!

At last, Azzaro Pour Homme arrived on shelves and was an instant success. Distributors made real fortunes with it as Azzaro pour Homme was very hard -almost impossible- to keep up with requests and was immediately sold-out.



Let's go and examine all the bottles.

blackDSCF8083.jpg
The First Bottle (1978-1997)

Full-size "L"and "A" logo (Loris Azzaro) on the box.
Silver sticker on the bottle. "Round" cap.
Between 1978 and half of the 80s:"Parfums Loris Azzaro SA Paris" in a SINGLE line.
Between half of the Eighties and 1997: "Loris Azzaro - Paris" in TWO lines on the bottle.
Bar-Code on the box after 1990, Greendot after 1992.

blackDSCF8087.jpg
Typical mid 1980s bottle, with "Loris Azzaro- Paris" in two lines on the bottle

Azzaro Pour Homme.jpg
Early bottle: "Parfums Loris Azzaro SA Paris" in a single row
on the bottom of the bottle: between 1978 and mid-1980s.

$_57.jpg
"First bottle" after year 1992, with barcode and GreenDot on the box.
Notice the "90%" and "fl.oz. ml" removed from the front of the bottle.



The Second bottle (1997-2007)
Medium size "L"and"A" logo on the box
Silver sticker on the bottle.
Hexagonal cap with chrome trim around the top edge.
Short list of ingredients ("Alcohol-Parfum-Water") until 2004

azzaro2bis.jpg

blackDSCF8094.jpg

blackDSCF8095.jpg

s-l1600.jpg
Urban Spray bottle and box (front)

s-l1600-1.jpg
Urban Spray box (bottom)

6c6d80e68d4302f8e8bb0f69384804c5.jpg
15ml travel spray


The Third bottle (since 2007)
Small-size "L" and "A" logo on the box
Glass logo on the bottle (instead of the silver sticker)
Hexagonal cap with chrome trim at the bottom edge.
(In these bottles, check the six-digits batch code: the first number = the year.)


blackDSCF8110.jpg

blackDSCF8113.jpg

blackDSCF8114.jpg

3b2c3a95943865f325d56f05e8fcb528.jpg
Refillable bottle with removable atomizer
613661e50b0db1fcec6343bab508041a.jpg
Refill bottle



Comparing Bottles & Boxes

blackDSCF8103.jpg
First bottle (L) Second bottle (R)

blackDSCF8105.jpg
L to R: First, Second, and Third Box designs (Front)

blackDSCF8106.jpg


L to R: First, Second, and Third Box designs (Back)


Side by Side version comparisons

Azzaro pour Homme is one of the few perfumes to be allegedly reformulated by the House. It happened during 1997, due to IFRA restrictions, and likely another reformulation happened around 2007.


So, let's go and compare three different bottles, the first produced during mid-Eighties, the second around year 2000 (reformulated), and the third after 2007 (probably another reformulation).


Can you spot any difference with a side-by-side test? The answer is : Yes.


The good news is that reformulations didn't destroy the scent. It's always Azzaro pour Homme, without any doubt. But differences actually exist.
The older one is a bit different from others. The main difference is the the sense of "perfect blend".

The vintage perfume appears without any edge, smooth, more aromatic, and almost delicate in its bitterness. You could say it a "smooth fougère" with the typical bitter notes softened, levigated, without asperities.


The newer versions, on the contrary, appear a bit more "sharp", less aromatic, less "blended". Single notes appear bold and heavy, without too much smoothness. The newest version (since 2007) is even more "rude" and heavy than previous ones. Bitter notes are really bitter ones. There is no attempt to "smooth" and "sweeten" the blend.


On the other side, all versions has same longevity and sillage. Newer versions are both strong and intense, both in longevity and sillage. There is no real winner in these aspects.


In conclusion, if you prefer a perfect "fougère"-type scent, you should seek a vintage bottle (1978-1997).

If you prefer a bold, in-your-face version, the modern version (2007 - ongoing) is perfect.

The "middle" version (1997-2007) is probably a sort of compromise between the two.


Personally, I prefer the smoother, perfectly-blended vintage version.


immagines1.jpg

Sources:

http://raidersofthelostscent.blogspo...zaro-pour.html

http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scenteds...azzaro_pe.html

[Zealot Crusader]

There is a fourth bottle too, with 8 sides, no chrome trim, removable atomizer, no oakmoss or treemoss listed on ingredients

[Brooks Otterlake]

I thought there was another formulation change since 2007, with the switch to refillable bottles?

[speckmann0706]

There is a fourth bottle too, with 8 sides, no chrome trim, removable atomizer, no oakmoss or treemoss listed on ingredients

Yup that’s the one I’ve been using and have a large stash of 100ml refillable bottles. The current 6.8oz bottles are nice but a total pain to hold and spray, they smell a little more richer as well compared to the 100ml refillable bottles and also spray a lot more which maybe has something to do with it. I double up on sprays with my refillable bottle, thanks The Cologne Cabinet appreciate the detailed history on Azzaro Pour Homme!

[The Cologne Cabinet]

I thought there was another formulation change since 2007, with the switch to refillable bottles?

I'm aware of the refillable bottles, but didn't have the info on what year they were introduced. I updated the post to reflect the reform in 2007. Thanks!

[The Cologne Cabinet]

There is a fourth bottle too, with 8 sides, no chrome trim, removable atomizer, no oakmoss or treemoss listed on ingredients

Updated, thanks

[The Cologne Cabinet]

Yup that’s the one I’ve been using and have a large stash of 100ml refillable bottles. The current 6.8oz bottles are nice but a total pain to hold and spray, they smell a little more richer as well compared to the 100ml refillable bottles and also spray a lot more which maybe has something to do with it. I double up on sprays with my refillable bottle, thanks The Cologne Cabinet appreciate the detailed history on Azzaro Pour Homme!

[saminlondon]

Raiders of the Lost Scent is such a useful resource, isn't it?

[Zgb]

My top worn! Excellent fragrance.

[Diddy]

I currently own a couple bottle of the first formula, and a few samples of newer stuff for reference. I’ve often said that Azzaro Pour Homme may not always be the right fragrance to wear but it’s never the wrong one. I adore that original release. And if I was only allowed one fragrance to own in my life, I think it would have to be original formula Azzaro Pour Homme. It’s works fine in my climate. It’s never offensive. It has great longevity. Yea, I’d have to say that first formula is my #1 all-rounder. I need another bottle!

[The Cologne Cabinet]

Raiders of the Lost Scent is such a useful resource, isn't it?

Yes it's a real asset to the community. I finally got around to sharing this link here on the boards.

My top worn! Excellent fragrance.

I currently own a couple bottle of the first formula, and a few samples of newer stuff for reference. I’ve often said that Azzaro Pour Homme may not always be the right fragrance to wear but it’s never the wrong one. I adore that original release. And if I was only allowed one fragrance to own in my life, I think it would have to be original formula Azzaro Pour Homme. It’s works fine in my climate. It’s never offensive. It has great longevity. Yea, I’d have to say that first formula is my #1 all-rounder. I need another bottle!

100%. If versatility is important to you then Azzaro is a home run every time!

[Danny Mitchell]

Man....I need to just get some vintage. I have current stuff. It's really good! But I'm thinking I may fall harder onto the hype train if I got some older stuff. I've done probably 5 or 6 wearing at this point. I'm not sure I logged all my wearings on this site, so it might be a few more than that. I am really enjoying it, though I wish it was stronger. Some days, I can pick it up and other days, I can't smell it at all.

[Brooks Otterlake]

Man....I need to just get some vintage. I have current stuff. It's really good! But I'm thinking I may fall harder onto the hype train if I got some older stuff. I've done probably 5 or 6 wearing at this point. I'm not sure I logged all my wearings on this site, so it might be a few more than that. I am really enjoying it, though I wish it was stronger. Some days, I can pick it up and other days, I can't smell it at all.

Older stuff is much improved, I think.

Current stuff feels a bit flat and fuzzy to me.

[deltasun]

Cool, great read! Thanks for putting this together.

[The Cologne Cabinet]

Man....I need to just get some vintage. I have current stuff. It's really good! But I'm thinking I may fall harder onto the hype train if I got some older stuff. I've done probably 5 or 6 wearing at this point. I'm not sure I logged all my wearings on this site, so it might be a few more than that. I am really enjoying it, though I wish it was stronger. Some days, I can pick it up and other days, I can't smell it at all.

Still plenty of affordable vintage splash and spray available on EBay.

Cool, great read! Thanks for putting this together.

Cool

[hellbentforleather]

This thread makes me want to start hoarding vintage Azzaro. At the moment, I'm preferring the second iteration by a hair - it seems to have a tad bit more warmth to it maybe?

[The Cologne Cabinet]

This thread makes me want to start hoarding vintage Azzaro. At the moment, I'm preferring the second iteration by a hair - it seems to have a tad bit more warmth to it maybe?

IMO, original and 2nd formulas are very close in terms of scent and longevity. A toss up really....the original probably has a higher concentration of Oakmoss, don’t know for sure.

[Sheik Yerbouti]

Agree with hellbent. I own a bottle of the 2nd edition vintage and tried the 4th edition a few times and prefer the vintage. It just oozes that air of the 80s cologne and the lack of oakmoss in the 4th is a stark contrast. The topnotes in the 4th also feel less finished. I guess there is no convincing substitute for oakmoss but some fragrances miss it more than others. A fougere without oakmoss is like a Coke without the fizz. Just better with.

[nosey74]

A fougere without oakmoss is like a Coke without the fizz. Just better with.

Well said

[Avecesar]

Vintage Azzaro Pour Homme has been, is, and will be my most worn scent !

[Bigsly]

I have a splash bottle of the original (rounded cap design) and like Yatagan, it's quite different from the later formulations, though you can get some sense that it's of the same lineage, so to speak. It's not as anisic and there's less of a fougere presence, but it's more animalic. In fact, the first versions of Yatagan and APH are actually a lot closer to each other than they are in their later formulations, IMO.

[Ken_Russell]

Thank you for the very extensive info and highly detailed pictures.
Do happen to both own and use the post 2007 version happen to like quite a bit while also enjoying the more vintage one (s) closer to the initial formulation or even identical with the very first one.

[Jean-Sté]

Thank you for the whole review; I'm fond of those very precise reviews, in terms of year of production, bottle shape, and so on...

Again, thank you !

It makes me willing to buy some vintage Azzaro...or to wear Macassar !

[hellbentforleather]

I guess there is no convincing substitute for oakmoss but some fragrances miss it more than others. A fougere without oakmoss is like a Coke without the fizz. Just better with.

I think this is why, in part, I'm traveling down the vintage rabbit hole. Aside from Egoiste, my current favorites have oakmoss as basenote: Azzaro, Tuscany, Safari, and Heritage. If I wasn't so fickle in my tastes and perceptions (at times, anyway), I could probably reduce my wardrobe to these 5.

[yourthemannowdog]

i had a bottle from the year 2005 and i didn't care much for it got rid of it . i got another bottle from 2016 and it seemed stronger and more harsh i still have that one . is a vintage worth buying

[The Cologne Cabinet]

Vintage Azzaro Pour Homme has been, is, and will be my most worn scent !

Nice! Me too...

Thank you for the very extensive info and highly detailed pictures.
Do happen to both own and use the post 2007 version happen to like quite a bit while also enjoying the more vintage one (s) closer to the initial formulation or even identical with the very first one.

Awesome

Thank you for the whole review; I'm fond of those very precise reviews, in terms of year of production, bottle shape, and so on...

Again, thank you !

It makes me willing to buy some vintage Azzaro...or to wear Macassar !

Go for it, you're welcome!

I think this is why, in part, I'm traveling down the vintage rabbit hole. Aside from Egoiste, my current favorites have oakmoss as basenote: Azzaro, Tuscany, Safari, and Heritage. If I wasn't so fickle in my tastes and perceptions (at times, anyway), I could probably reduce my wardrobe to these 5.

Agreed. If that day ever comes, I could easily survive with 5 benchmark fragrances.

[The_Cologneist]

Ty for this reference guide to ApH, and the time you put into it.

I do feel based on my knowledge of ApH, you are missing a couple bottles. Maybe collaborating with some others on here to finish this.

[saminlondon]

Since many will also be referring to the original article on Raiders of the Lost Scent, it would be useful to know what specifically is new here. Perhaps you could highlight the changes or updates you made?

[hednic]

Raiders of the Lost Scent is such a useful resource, isn't it?

Yes very informative.

[The Cologne Cabinet]

Since many will also be referring to the original article on Raiders of the Lost Scent, it would be useful to know what specifically is new here. Perhaps you could highlight the changes or updates you made?

I added a few different pictures of bottle variations and paraphrased some of the descriptions. Ultimately, I wanted to share this blog entry on the forum as many have questions about vintage variations and have never heard of the Raider’s blog page. Thanks