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  1. #1

    Default Favourite perfumer and their best work

    I am looking for more ideas on what to try in search of the elusive holy grail.

    I thought perhaps filtering by peoples' favourite perfumers, finding one that I like and then sampling their best work might be a reasonable strategy?

    I like a range of genres so sticking to just one doesn't really work for me.

    Can I have your recommendations, please?

    Also, as a bit of a side question, how do you go about choosing what to try next?

    Cheers
    Please see my "wanted partials"
    Currently wearing: Herod by Parfums de Marly

  2. #2

    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Among others and in no particular order, though unsure if sufficient for a spot on and complete testing recommendation:

    Roger Pellegrino - especially thanks to Armani Eau pour Homme, Bogart One Man Show and Rochas Macassar,

    - almost anyone in the Guerlain dynasty and their contributions, as well of the more recent ones of Thierry Wasser to both the regulars and the exclusives of Guerlain,

    - both Jacques Polge and Olivier Polge-mainly but not exclusively contributions to French designer houses like Chanel,

    - almost any of the more recent output but Oliver Creed
    Last edited by Ken_Russell; 23rd January 2021 at 07:15 PM.
    Currently wearing: Fate Man by Amouage

  3. #3
    New Member Salvter's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Dominique Ropion for everything he has created in his career. And Julien Rasquinet to represent the new generation of master perfumers.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    Among others and in no particular order, though unsure if sufficient for a spot on and complete testing recommendation:

    Roger Pellegrino - especially thanks to Armani Eau pour Homme, Bogart One Man Show and Rochas Macassar, almost anyone in the Guerlain dynasty and the contributions, as well of the more recent ones of Thierry Wasser to both the regulars and the exclusives of Guerlain, both Jacques Polge and Olivier Polge-mainly but not excllusively contributions to French designer houses like Chanel, almost any of the more recent output but Oliver Creed
    Don't think Olivier creed is a perfumer in actuality

  5. #5

    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Demachy EAU Sauvage EDP (17)
    Bourdon French Lover

  6. #6
    Sound Scents
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    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Dominique Ropion

    Best Work:

    Portrait of a Lady by Malle
    Accenti by Gucci
    Superstitious by Malle
    Une Fleur de Cassie by Malle
    Vetiver Extraordinaire by Malle
    Carnal Flower by Malle
    The Night by Malle
    Costume National Homme

    Honorable Mention:

    Edouard Flechier
    Frank Voelkl
    Edmond Roudnitska
    Jean Kerleo
    Current Top Ten:
    1) Portrait of a Lady original formula (EdP Frédéric Malle)
    2) Jasmin Antique (Rogue Perfumery)
    3) Giorgio for Men vintage (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie
    3) Giorgio V.I.P. Special Reserve (Giorgio Beverly Hills) - tie

    5) Dia pour Homme vintage edt (Amouage)

    6) Captain vintage (Molyneux)
    7) Nombre Noir (Shiseido)
    8) Lucifer (Renaissance Fragrances) - tie
    8) Monsieur de Givenchy vintage (Givenchy) - tie
    8) Polo vintage (Ralph Lauren) - tie


  7. #7
    Basenotes Institution dougczar's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Hands down - Olivier Creed, and his best work IMO is Spice & Wood.

    But these were pretty darn good too:

    Virgin Island Water
    Aventus
    Pure White Cologne
    Green Valley
    Jardin d'Amalfi
    Bois du Portugal
    Royal English Leather
    EROLFA
    Royal Oud



    Quote Originally Posted by ION-ONE View Post
    Don't think Olivier creed is a perfumer in actuality
    A lot of people suggest this, but with no proof or evidence. Usually speculation / wishful thinking from the "Creed Haters". May well be true (I wouldn't know either way), but there hasn't been anything I have seen or heard which would show otherwise, nor have I ever seen anyone claim to be the true perfumers behind any of those that I listed above.
    Current Winter Favorites:

    1. House of Matriarch - Blackbird
    2. Brückner - Aoud 1
    3. Creed - Royal Oud
    4. Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 - Generation Man
    5. Armani Privé - Oud Royal
    6. by Kilian - Straight to Heaven
    7. Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777 - Mortal Skin
    8. Creed - Royal English Leather
    9. Creed - Bois du Portugal
    10. by Kilian - Cruel Intentions

  8. #8
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
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    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    I guess it would be Jacques Polge and Antaeus, with honorable mention to Antaeus Sport, Pour Monsieur Concentree, Egoiste, Egoiste Concentree, and Platinum Egoiste.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    One I respect is Elodie Pollet and her # 11 by Eutopie is just wonderful IMO.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
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  10. #10
    Missing Oakmoss

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    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Of the modern perfumers, probably Christopher Sheldrake (Lutens Borneo 1834, Tubéreuse Criminelle) and Jacques Polge (Chanel Les Exclusifs line).
    Last edited by Bonnette; 23rd January 2021 at 09:18 PM. Reason: added perfume names

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Mathilde Laurent:

    L'Heure Perdue XI
    La Treizieme Heure XIII
    L'Heure Mystérieuse XII

    Roja Dove(& NO I don't care if you don't think he's a perfumer):

    Great Britain
    Pierre de Velay 1
    Amber Aoud

    Chris Maurice/Chris Carbonell:

    Alexandria II
    Al-Khatt
    Pikovaya Dama

    Dominique Ropion:

    Portrait Of A Lady
    The Night
    Carnal Flower

    Julien Rasquinet:

    Russian Tea
    The Moon
    Tabac Rose
    Make It Happen!

    Current Top 10 Of All Time
    1.Encens Mythique d’Orient
    2.L’Heure Perdue XI
    3.Le Monarque II/Sultanate Of Oman/Pierre de Velay No. 1/Black Cashmere/Pearl Moon/Semi Bespoke 21/Parfum Royale No.1
    4.Candy Aoud/(Dior) Vetiver/Santal Noir/Great Britain/Correspondence/Dasman/Symphonium/Al-Khatt/Nuit de Bekelite/Richwood
    5.Les Sables Roses/Mon Patchouly/1996/EL/Vision In A Dream Psychedelic/Argentium Halo De Lune/Torc/FDB Velvet Amber
    6.L’Heure Mysterieuse XII/Au Hasard/#laislablanca/ Luci Ed Ombre/Tabac Rose/Russian Tea/Oud & Ambre
    7.Opus VI/Prolixe/Jump Up & Kiss Me Hedonistic/Alseif
    8.Le Monarque III/V/MAAI/Malesia/Absolue Pour le Soir/Ganymede
    9.Fetish Parfum Pour Homme/Dhajala
    10.Cuir Intense

  12. #12
    Dependent Emanuel76's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Duchaufour gave me many of my favorite perfumes, from which Dia is my love.

    Btw, who is the nose behind Moschino pour Homme?
    Currently wearing: Jaïpur Homme by Boucheron

  13. #13

    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Olivier Creed - Aventus
    and
    Roja Dove - Vetiver Parfum

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Pierre Bourdon
    Kouros
    Bois du Portugal
    Green Irish Tweed (sometimes debated).
    Favorites
    Fahrenheit/Fahrenheit Parfum - Dior
    Aventus/Bois du Portugal/Green Irish Tweed/Royal Oud - Creed
    Danger- Roja Dove
    Jubilation XXV - Amouage
    Baraonda/Pardon - Nasomatto
    Naxos - Xerjoff
    1962 - Floris
    Pegwell Bay - Haeckels
    Heritage (edt & edp) - Guerlain
    Beau de Jour - Tom Ford

  15. #15

    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Quote Originally Posted by Man Of The World View Post
    Pierre Bourdon
    Kouros
    Bois du Portugal
    Green Irish Tweed (sometimes debated).
    Another one do admire very much - and consider purchasing as well as testing more from
    Currently wearing: Fate Man by Amouage

  16. #16

    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Jacques Polge - Egoiste
    Follow Upcoming Sync Fridays For 2021 HERE:https://www.basenotes.net/threads/48...d-Fridays-2021

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    Currently wearing: Derby by Guerlain

  17. #17

    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Helena for TDH
    Duchaufour for Avignon

  18. #18

    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Jean-Paul Guerlain

    Arsène Lupin Dandy (2010)
    Arsène Lupin Voyou (2010)
    Chamade pour Homme (1999)
    Coriolan (1998)
    Derby (1985)
    Eau de Guerlain (1974)
    Habit Rouge (1965)
    Héritage (1992)
    Guerlain Homme (2008)
    L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme (2004)
    Spiritueuse Double Vanille (2007)
    Vetiver (1961)

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Bertrand Duchaufour ... hard to pick a favorite. Sartorial is my SOTD and it is certainly a worthy contender
    1. Sandalo by Lorenzo Villoresi
    2. Eau D'Hederin by Annick Goutal
    3. Neroli Portofino by Tom ford
    4. Gris Clair by Serge Lutens
    5. L'Ombre Dans L'Eau by Diptyque
    6. Colonia by Acqua di Parma
    7. Scandal by Roja
    8. Sublime Vanille by Creed
    9. Moon Safari by Memo
    10. Pour Homme by Paco Robanne

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Polo Green; Polo Modern Reserve; Herrera for Men - Carlos Benaim

    Azzaro pour homme - Gérard Anthony, Martin Heiddenreich, Richard Wirtz

    Aramis Havana - Nathalie Feisthauer

    Montana Parfum d’Homme - Edouard Flechier

    Michael for Men - Harry Fremont

    Drakkar Noir - Pierre Wargnye

    Aramis Tuscany; Polo Crest; Safari for Men - Unknown


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  21. #21
    Basenotes Member Ozymandias's Avatar
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    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    I don't quite have the breadth of experience with the body of work of many perfumers to confidently pick any out as a favourite (for me it's still mostly individual scents) but here are some who I think have interesting vision:

    Andy Tauer - Lonestar Memories

    Thierry Wasser - Furyo (co-perfumer), Salvador Dali pH

    Also agree with Dominique Ropion as mentioned for Portrait of a Lady. Jacques Cavallier has quite a few nice ones in his catalogue, and though I have yet to smell it, Kingdom sounds really fascinating to me

  22. #22

    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Jean Laporte for the exquisite Santal Noble

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Jean-Louis Sieuzac, credited with: Bel Ami, Or Black, Fahrenheit, and Opium among others.

    Jean-Francois Laporte, founded L'Artisan & MPG. His 1988 whirlwind at Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier of Ambre Precieux, Eau des Iles, Parfum d’Habit, Route du Vetiver, especially Santal Noble, and others always impressed me.

    But...
    Figuring out just what it was that I was looking for, for the most part, was a more focused approach. Afterall, these guys largely follow scripts rather than freewheelin' it, no?
    Wanna Shop? --> Buzier's Sales

    MY TOP SHELF: Azzaro pH, Bel Ami, Blackbird, Blend 30, Cuba, Davidoff '84, Derby, Edition, Equipage, Jules, Knize Ten, Kouros, Leather Oud, Puredistance M, Santal Noble, Tribute Attar, Yatagan

  24. #24

    Default Re: Favourite perfumer and their best work

    Jean-Claude Ellena
    Terre d'Hermes.




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