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  1. #1
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    Default Wearing vintage that has turned

    I've had a couple vintage fragrances that turned a bit.

    The first was Polo Sport. The opening usually has a sporty-fresh vibe, but with this bottle, it's almost like it got sprayed through a dirty filter. It retained the same smell beneath it all, but there was this maybe "burnt" aspect to some of the notes. It didn't smell good at all for the top and heart. Only when it got down to the base notes did I noticed the classic Polo Sport smell and a considerable depth when compared to the reformulation. I ended up tossing it.

    The second vintage fragrance I got is a mixed back, which I'm trying to get some feedback on. Top notes smell like a high concentration of alcohol. Not a great sign, correct?
    Then it gets down to the heart notes and it smells kind of nice, but also smells like an antique store. It's not gross like the Polo Sport but the antique store "note" isn't exactly what I want to conjure when wearing it around others. However, after about 2-3 hours, this stuff smells amazing! Completely different in every aspect to the reformulation. I'd almost go as far as to say it's the ideal classic men's fragrance. I personally think it's worth smelling like an antiques for an hour or two in order to get that dry down for the rest of the day.

    Two questions:

    1) Do you think there's a chance my description of the actual dry down is skewed and maybe the antique smell is just there but I got ansomic to it? I've often heard that when a fragrance goes bad, usually the base notes survive, so I assumed that's the case here.

    2) Do you still wear vintage fragrances as long as some aspect of them survives, or do you chuck the whole thing? How do you deal with the turned part in public? Just spray it earlier than usual before going out?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    I assume some of the top notes fade through age but I still dig 'em. One thing to consider: try cleaning the spray head with a warm water soak. I have a 2011 bottle of Royal Oud that seemed to have turned - sour and weird-smelling - until I soaked the spray head a few times per a suggestion. It solved the problem in full.
    "No one wants advice - only corroboration." - John Steinbeck
    Currently wearing: Royal Oud by Creed

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    As long as they have not been exposed to direct sun light for a longer period of time or big temperature differences, my experience is they are almost all fine, even when 40+ years old.
    My Top '12':

    - Paco Rabanne: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - Guerlain: Héritage (vtg)
    - Mancera: Red Tobacco/Aoud Vanille
    - Armani: AdG Profumo
    - Azzaro: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - Antaeus (vtg)
    - Thierry Mugler: A*men
    - Initio: Side Effect
    - D&G: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - YSL: Kouros (vtg)
    - Vermeil: Pour Homme

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Hi Hugh V.—

    Your second example is a “mixed back”? What is that? What is the perfume?

    And the “antique store” smell...could you describe this more specifically? Dusty? Musty? Moldy?

    In general, if I feel that a perfume has significantly degraded, I don’t wear it. If the top notes are gone, if the structure is lost, I do not find that the basenotes “survive” in a wearable condition either,
    Last edited by grayspoole; 30th January 2021 at 02:06 PM.

  5. #5
    Missing Oakmoss

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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    If a perfume has really and truly turned, there's no mistaking it - it will either smell like acetone or furniture varnish, and often it looks syrupy. A vintage perfume will usually have lost its top notes, which is fine, and even some of its heart notes might be on their way out - but it will still be recognizable as itself, and I will sometimes wear a vintage perfume in that condition if I'm in the mood for it. But if it's blatantly off - no matter how much I try to tell myself it isn't - of if all I can smell is the base, it gets put in the perfume graveyard (a corner of the cabinet, with a little sticker saying why it's there, not in the trash).

  6. #6

    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    If a perfume has really and truly turned, there's no mistaking it - it will either smell like acetone or furniture varnish, and often it looks syrupy. A vintage perfume will usually have lost its top notes, which is fine, and even some of its heart notes might be on their way out - but it will still be recognizable as itself, and I will sometimes wear a vintage perfume in that condition if I'm in the mood for it. But if it's blatantly off - no matter how much I try to tell myself it isn't - of if all I can smell is the base, it gets put in the perfume graveyard (a corner of the cabinet, with a little sticker saying why it's there, not in the trash).
    This is good to know. So if/when a fragrance turns, it's obvious yeah?
    "No one wants advice - only corroboration." - John Steinbeck
    Currently wearing: Royal Oud by Creed

  7. #7
    Missing Oakmoss

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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Quote Originally Posted by hellbentforleather View Post
    This is good to know. So if/when a fragrance turns, it's obvious yeah?
    That's how ot seems to me, and I think many members here will agree.

  8. #8
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    Talking Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    I've have two turned Vintage bottles that I have identified, in my Wardrobe.
    Both carry an opening of Acetone-ed Alcohol.
    There is a moment, with both, that my natural reaction is recoil.
    My Basenote's nose's first instinct, is to search for the Heart and further, to the Base.
    With one, the Heart of Ginger, Cardamom and Coriander is distinctly rounded and the base a bloom of Oakmoss, Vetiver and Cedar. The Acetone seems to have produced a Golden Lacquered, Layered Patina.
    With the other an open, empty space of Pepper and Rose transparent and the base, a Flat Canvas of Vetiver and Cedar. The Acetone seems to have produced an Icy White, Single Dimensioned Patina.

    I keep both to compare to following releases.

    I wear one often with great pleasure.

    chanel Pour monsiererrr.jpg

    The other is a 2019 tester of Terre d'Hermes.
    Last edited by purecaramel; 31st January 2021 at 01:34 AM.
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  9. #9
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Quote Originally Posted by Hugh V. View Post

    2) Do you still wear vintage fragrances as long as some aspect of them survives
    I would if that were the case with me, but it hasn't happened yet thankfully.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    it does indeed seem that the perfume has turned, but the deep drydown is still ok. I did buy some bottles (on ebay) that were like that. As others explained, sharp varnish/alcohol is a common sign of citrus or aldehydes turning, and musty odors are also a sign of degradation. As you point out, many of the old drydown materials (oakmoss, sandalwood, animalic musks) are forbiddden or unavailable, so sometimes the drydown does indeed smell gorgeous. Whether one thinks it worth to go through hours of bad smells to get there it's up to one's preferences. Spraying on handkerchief etc could be a possibility, but since fabric keeps smells for longer, it will take days to get to the drydown.

    cacio

  11. #11

    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    1) it can be actually possible that the fragrance did not turn, just certain notes developed in a way different from spoilage that might be perceived more difficultly and/or cause a certain olfactory fatigue


    2) so far personally speaking, did not notice even the fragrances aged 30-40 years in the current vintage lineup did not turn or at least their scent and/or performance seem little to not affected so far

  12. #12

    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    One of my two opened bottles of Guerlain Vol de Nuit from 1930s has clear evidence of it being turned. I had a few individuals here who've tested out both bottles and made the same conclusions that I've made on them. A great chypre masterpiece, I only wished it was created in a way that it would be more resistance to turning.

    GUERLAIN VOL DE NUIT 1930s.jpg
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  13. #13
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Thanks for the advice and replies everyone.

    Quote Originally Posted by hellbentforleather View Post
    I assume some of the top notes fade through age but I still dig 'em. One thing to consider: try cleaning the spray head with a warm water soak. I have a 2011 bottle of Royal Oud that seemed to have turned - sour and weird-smelling - until I soaked the spray head a few times per a suggestion. It solved the problem in full.
    Thank! I wonder if that's what happened to some of my vintages I tossed. The nozzles were all coated with thick left over sprays.

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Hi Hugh V.—

    Your second example is a “mixed back”? What is that? What is the perfume?

    And the “antique store” smell...could you describe this more specifically? Dusty? Musty? Moldy?

    In general, if I feel that a perfume has significantly degraded, I don’t wear it. If the top notes are gone, if the structure is lost, I do not find that the basenotes “survive” in a wearable condition either,
    I meant to say a mixed bag. I'd love to say what fragrance it is, but I don't want to hype it up and drive the grey market price up. I know that doesn't help tryin to ascertain whether it's just how that particular fragrance smells, or if it's turned.

    I'm thinking it's a little to the musty side. Actually typing that out, it must have turned. Musty or antique store, no one perfumer is trying to replicate that smell. Yeah, sharp alcohol opening, musty heart...it turned. But it doesn't smell like vinegar or "burnt," and the base notes are absolutely amazing. So a scent I wear around the house for a few hours before going out.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Quote Originally Posted by Hugh V. View Post
    I meant to say a mixed bag. I'd love to say what fragrance it is, but I don't want to hype it up and drive the grey market price up. I know that doesn't help tryin to ascertain whether it's just how that particular fragrance smells, or if it's turned.

    I'm thinking it's a little to the musty side. Actually typing that out, it must have turned. Musty or antique store, no one perfumer is trying to replicate that smell. Yeah, sharp alcohol opening, musty heart...it turned. But it doesn't smell like vinegar or "burnt," and the base notes are absolutely amazing. So a scent I wear around the house for a few hours before going out.
    Hi Hugh-

    Well it’s hard to know if that is “how that particular fragrance smells” if you won’t tell us what it is! Perhaps you can tell me in a PM? I swear I will not buy any of it.

    I am curious because some vintages, especially compositions with a lot of oakmoss such as Replique or Tweed or the original Brumes could smell peaty or perhaps musty. But these are scents from the 1930’s and 40’s and perhaps your mystery bottle is newer?

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Quote Originally Posted by Hugh V. View Post
    Musty or antique store, no one perfumer is trying to replicate that smell.
    I wouldn't be so sure about that.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Quote Originally Posted by Hugh V. View Post
    I've had a couple vintage fragrances that turned a bit.

    The first was Polo Sport. The opening usually has a sporty-fresh vibe, but with this bottle, it's almost like it got sprayed through a dirty filter. It retained the same smell beneath it all, but there was this maybe "burnt" aspect to some of the notes. It didn't smell good at all for the top and heart. Only when it got down to the base notes did I noticed the classic Polo Sport smell and a considerable depth when compared to the reformulation. I ended up tossing it.

    The second vintage fragrance I got is a mixed back, which I'm trying to get some feedback on. Top notes smell like a high concentration of alcohol. Not a great sign, correct?
    Then it gets down to the heart notes and it smells kind of nice, but also smells like an antique store. It's not gross like the Polo Sport but the antique store "note" isn't exactly what I want to conjure when wearing it around others. However, after about 2-3 hours, this stuff smells amazing! Completely different in every aspect to the reformulation. I'd almost go as far as to say it's the ideal classic men's fragrance. I personally think it's worth smelling like an antiques for an hour or two in order to get that dry down for the rest of the day.

    Two questions:

    1) Do you think there's a chance my description of the actual dry down is skewed and maybe the antique smell is just there but I got ansomic to it? I've often heard that when a fragrance goes bad, usually the base notes survive, so I assumed that's the case here.

    2) Do you still wear vintage fragrances as long as some aspect of them survives, or do you chuck the whole thing? How do you deal with the turned part in public? Just spray it earlier than usual before going out?
    it might be your sprayer is clogged with turned juice . i had a bottle of goodlife that smelled bad but after 10 sprays its back to normal. i got 2 bottles of polo sport and i wouldn't toss them if they went bad they cost too much and the bottles looks cool

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Hi Hugh-

    Well it’s hard to know if that is “how that particular fragrance smells” if you won’t tell us what it is! Perhaps you can tell me in a PM? I swear I will not buy any of it.
    I suppose it's not a big deal. It's vintage Azzaro Pour Homme. The top notes have a high concentration of alcohol, middle kind of has that anise vibe to it mixed with a possibly musty/antique-store smell. It's the smell of "old" in my opinion but because of the anise it still smells okay. Once it gets past that, it smells like a regular vintage men's cologne would smell like: blended perfectly, smooth, etc.


    Quote Originally Posted by yourthemannowdog View Post
    it might be your sprayer is clogged with turned juice . i had a bottle of goodlife that smelled bad but after 10 sprays its back to normal. i got 2 bottles of polo sport and i wouldn't toss them if they went bad they cost too much and the bottles looks cool
    I had vintage Cool Water and vintage Curve, both weren't stored great, and probably turned because of it. But they also had some gunk on the sprayer. I should have kept those AND my Polo Sport.

  18. #18
    I’m not old, I’m vintage.
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Quote Originally Posted by Hugh V. View Post
    I suppose it's not a big deal. It's vintage Azzaro Pour Homme.
    Yep, not a big deal. That cat’s been out of the bag for ages, and there’s still plenty of it out in the world.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Ah, so the second fragrance is Azzaro our Homme. Thanks for clearing that up. Unfortunately, I have no idea what it smells like but perhaps others will weigh in on whether or not the drydown of an unturned bottle might suggest an “antique store.”

    As Cook.bot suggested, some of us may be seeking out perfumes with that “antique store” vibe on purpose!

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Your question reminded me that I bought a vintage bottle of Bowling Green, some months ago, with box, probably sprayed once or twice that smelled really strong patchouly or something like that after initial spraying. So strong I couldn't put up with it. However, after some minutes a rich citrusy still full of patchouli or oakmoss, I don't know for sure, exuded and from then on, It has become my favourite citrusy old school fragrance: green and full-bodied patchouly.
    What puzzles me is that, previously, I had only tested the new/reformulated version (with clear juice) and It's a completely different fragrance (a nice bright/clean citrusy scent, almost aquatic).
    Now I don't know if I own a true vintage bottle or a true turned vintage bottle...

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    I've often thunk about this.
    I feel fellow basenoters, sometimes I really really reallllly want it to not have gone sour, acetone, vinegar...
    The only one I've had really gone is a old St Michaels (Mark's &Spencer) "Burgundy" cologne and talc set. Talc I didnt touch (dont think it would be safe tbh!) And the cologne was in a plastic bottle. Dont think plastic helped with the plastic glue off smell. Yet still far dry off was ok.
    I think one of my Dunhill Colognes has really mashed up its top notes, hmmm... 1/2 he later though its bang on. I wear it still.
    Similarly Chanel Mens Cologne, spot onndescription below. The slight turn is almost pleasant!

  22. #22

    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Quote Originally Posted by RCavs View Post
    Your question reminded me that I bought a vintage bottle of Bowling Green, some months ago, with box, probably sprayed once or twice that smelled really strong patchouly or something like that after initial spraying. So strong I couldn't put up with it. However, after some minutes a rich citrusy still full of patchouli or oakmoss, I don't know for sure, exuded and from then on, It has become my favourite citrusy old school fragrance: green and full-bodied patchouly.
    What puzzles me is that, previously, I had only tested the new/reformulated version (with clear juice) and It's a completely different fragrance (a nice bright/clean citrusy scent, almost aquatic).
    Now I don't know if I own a true vintage bottle or a true turned vintage bottle...
    IMHO, a turned scent can't turn into "a rich citrusy still full of patchouli or oakmoss, I don't know for sure, exuded and from then on, It has become my favourite citrusy old school fragrance: green and full-bodied patchouly." I think you own a true vintage bottle.

    My two cents (or scents ^^)

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Quote Originally Posted by RCavs View Post
    Your question reminded me that I bought a vintage bottle of Bowling Green, some months ago, with box, probably sprayed once or twice that smelled really strong patchouly or something like that after initial spraying. So strong I couldn't put up with it. However, after some minutes a rich citrusy still full of patchouli or oakmoss, I don't know for sure, exuded and from then on, It has become my favourite citrusy old school fragrance: green and full-bodied patchouly.
    What puzzles me is that, previously, I had only tested the new/reformulated version (with clear juice) and It's a completely different fragrance (a nice bright/clean citrusy scent, almost aquatic).
    Now I don't know if I own a true vintage bottle or a true turned vintage bottle...
    I'm with Jean-Sté, definitely vintage.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Quote Originally Posted by Jean-Sté View Post
    IMHO, a turned scent can't turn into "a rich citrusy still full of patchouli or oakmoss, I don't know for sure, exuded and from then on, It has become my favourite citrusy old school fragrance: green and full-bodied patchouly." I think you own a true vintage bottle.

    My two cents (or scents ^^)
    Quote Originally Posted by Bonnette View Post
    I'm with Jean-Sté, definitely vintage.
    That's what I suspected, LOL! Thanks for replying!

  25. #25

    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Hi Hugh

    Can you part with some of your vintage Polo sport? I would like to smell it, can I buy a two ml of it. I want it for inspiration.

    regards

    Justin

  26. #26

    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Quote Originally Posted by creativeaccord View Post
    Hi Hugh

    Can you part with some of your vintage Polo sport? I would like to smell it, can I buy a two ml of it. I want it for inspiration.

    regards

    Justin
    Perhaps you could create a thread in the fragrance wanted thread to inquire for a small decant of Polo. The fragrance split thread is also worth checking for decants. Hope that helps.
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  27. #27
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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Quote Originally Posted by creativeaccord View Post
    Hi Hugh

    Can you part with some of your vintage Polo sport? I would like to smell it, can I buy a two ml of it. I want it for inspiration.

    regards

    Justin
    Sorry to say, but I gave it away a while back.

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    Default Re: Wearing vintage that has turned

    Just a thought but sometimes I have to clear the spray tube inside the bottle by wasting a few sprays to get rid of the stale
    Fragrance that was stuck in the tube for who knows how long. Maybe it’s psychological but worth a shot to see if the entire bottle went bad or just the juice that was in the spray tube. If it’s a splash that’s a different story.
    Currently wearing: Calvin by Calvin Klein




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