Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 20 of 20
  1. #1
    Basenotes Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Location
    Edinburgh
    Posts
    20

    Default Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Hi All,
    This is admittedly a selfish post, but I'm making an order from Pell Wall and I'd love to get your advice on what I have in my cart so far. If there's anything I really should stay away from, I'd appreciate the feedback. Right now, I'm interested in just constructing a good collection of materials, but I would prefer not to spend any money on anything totally disappointing.

    Evernyl
    Scentenal
    Calone
    Birch Tar Rectified
    Oud Malekai 10%
    Raspberry Ketone
    Geraniol
    Oranger Crystals

    Let me know if you have any other recommendations. Like I said, I'm just trying to build up my toolkit.
    Currently wearing: Santal 33 by Le Labo

  2. #2
    Basenotes Plus
    Claudio_Wu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Ireland
    Posts
    73

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Any material can be useful, so it's impossible to say what you should stay away from. It would be good if you define what compositions you would like to create, of what nature, then it will be easier to advise what to buy and what not to waste money on.
    You should definitely buy some solvents like DPG, IPM, TEC, for example to dissolve Raspberry Ketone or Evernyl.
    Buy as little Birch Tar as possible as it is very efficient.

  3. #3
    Basenotes Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Location
    Edinburgh
    Posts
    20

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    I tend to like kind of dusty, floral perfumes. Things that smell more natural. I suppose when I start imagining what I want to evoke with a formula, I often come back to ideas of gloomy days in my childhood friend's country home and the monotonous, dusty and earthy smell of the American Southwest.
    Currently wearing: Santal 33 by Le Labo

  4. #4
    Super Member Casper_grassy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Queens
    Posts
    475

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    If you were to base it off building a collection of materials with “more” usage, I wouldn’t jump for the oud maleki (I personally dislike pre-diluted material) or the birch tar. Though birch tar is a staple if I’m making a rougher leather, so in that regard I would purchase a small amount, 4ml if offered is plenty to last you a while. Everything else though I feel is quite useful. I’ve actually been trying to consolidate my material count, I realized I have so much bs that I rarely use, so take your time in making decisions and really think about what could be put to use. I’m pushing the 300 mark of material and it seems every formula I make I don’t even think I use half of that. I could’ve spent that $ on larger quantities of materials that I put to use more.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    I ordered the IFRA compliant oakmoss from pell wall which, reading the site again, may be a mixture of oakmoss and synthetics like evernyl. It's not overly clear. Either way, it's very nice and more complex and natural than evernyl.

    What other materials do you have?

    I have found that Virginia cedar and benzoin smells a bit like walking among hot, dry pine trees.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    It (the Payan Bertrand at PW) is a mixture of the natural extract together with other ingredients both natural and synthetic, per the provided documentation.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/25f16lm5qj...%2048.pdf?dl=0

    The disclosed potentially hazardous ingredients are:

    Picture3.jpg

    I'm sorry I can't get the picture to show any better. I don't know why.

    Anyway, the two lowest ingredients respectively are alpha-cedrene and cedrol. The top ingredient, making up at least 50%, is essentially Hercolyn-D but is not necessarily of any given brand. There may be up to 28% other non-reportable ingredients. Oakmoss extract itself is between 20 and 50 percent.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/yc15dc8s8f...__SDS.pdf?dl=0

  7. #7

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Thanks Bill. It says 20-50% oakmoss, which is curiously vague. I'm guessing evernyl is in there, as I smell a similarity, but this is richer. I'll get my hands on some non-compliant stuff at some point.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    I find it impossible to judge what one needs and what not. Materials are expensive yes, but otherwise you get the opportunity to learn with every new material.
    You don't know what you don't know.
    I am already far beyond 300 materials and I also do not use them all every day. I am glad for each and every bottle I have. But how can one know just from anybody else's advice what YOU really like and need? On top of that odor descriptions can be misleading sometimes.
    As a first approach I would get the Top 100 materials from the help/read first thread and work from there. That's approximately what I did when starting off.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Quote Originally Posted by Yuri-G View Post
    Thanks Bill. It says 20-50% oakmoss, which is curiously vague.
    Not really. SDS's ordinarily give ranges which can be pretty broad, such as 2-5 times or even 10 times, such as 0.1-1%.

    On occasion SDS values are fairly precise, but that's more the exception than the rule.

    On non-compliant, I don't know the selections available in the UK, but if shipping from the US is not too bad, the John Steele is wonderful. The Hermitage may well be fine. To me there's a world of difference between a great natural and the Givco, Evernyl, Orcinyl, or the latter two combined.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Roberts View Post
    Not really. SDS's ordinarily give ranges which can be pretty broad, such as 2-5 times or even 10 times, such as 0.1-1%.

    On occasion SDS values are fairly precise, but that's more the exception than the rule.

    On non-compliant, I don't know the selections available in the UK, but if shipping from the US is not too bad, the John Steele is wonderful. The Hermitage may well be fine. To me there's a world of difference between a great natural and the Givco, Evernyl, Orcinyl, or the latter two combined.
    That's interesting to know Bill.

    Shipping is fairly horrendous, and Hermitage no longer supplies the UK.

    There are other suppliers but they seem suspiciously cheap.

    For example:

    https://www.bayhousearomatics.com/oa...w-atranol.html

  11. #11

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Roberts View Post
    Not really. SDS's ordinarily give ranges which can be pretty broad, such as 2-5 times or even 10 times, such as 0.1-1%.

    On occasion SDS values are fairly precise, but that's more the exception than the rule.

    On non-compliant, I don't know the selections available in the UK, but if shipping from the US is not too bad, the John Steele is wonderful. The Hermitage may well be fine. To me there's a world of difference between a great natural and the Givco, Evernyl, Orcinyl, or the latter two combined.
    Bill, do you have a suggestion for evernylrcinyl ratio to start with?

  12. #12

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    It does seem many times too cheap.

    I see they use the less-reputable-retailers trick of keeping from you any of the original documentation, providing only their own.

    For example, the price might be explained if it is the Payan Bertrand, as that might be as low as 20% oak moss, but they keep the original documentation from you.

    I have no problem with the term "Absolute" being used for what sounds like a natural even where it is extended with other materials so long as that fact is presented, but to me it is unethical to sell an extended material, or one having none of the named natural at all, as the "Absolute" of a natural while hiding that fact. Which I don't know they are doing, but others that I try to avoid doing business with, or succeed in avoiding, do.

    (PW did not, they provide the original documentation showing it clearly.)

  13. #13

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    What about Oshadi? At my very beginning, I bought some oils from them, including oakmoss if I remember right. Expensive, but nice oils. Try to check

  14. #14

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Quote Originally Posted by Yuri-G View Post
    That's interesting to know Bill.

    Shipping is fairly horrendous, and Hermitage no longer supplies the UK.

    There are other suppliers but they seem suspiciously cheap.

    For example:

    https://www.bayhousearomatics.com/oa...w-atranol.html
    Just because they are in GB, so may be less expensive for you

  15. #15

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Quote Originally Posted by mnitabach View Post
    Bill, do you have a suggestion for evernyl:orcinyl ratio to start with?
    2:1

  16. #16

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Thanks! I love evernyl, so gonna get some orcinyl & try this out. Evernyl is among the most tenacious molecules I know, months on smelling strip, will be interesting to see how orcinyl compares.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Anyone have Cedryl Acetate? I bought a fair amount because it seems like a 'friendly' woody material. I'm curious how it might compare to something like Cedrol or Vetiver Acetate.

  18. #18
    Super Member Casper_grassy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Queens
    Posts
    475

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Quote Originally Posted by chyprefresh View Post
    Anyone have Cedryl Acetate? I bought a fair amount because it seems like a 'friendly' woody material. I'm curious how it might compare to something like Cedrol or Vetiver Acetate.
    It’s similar to cedar virginia in scent, a bit softer and weaker by comparison. I have never smelled cedrol so can’t speak on that, but IMO performs like vetiver acetate. It is nice for cedar nuances, but if going for full on cedar it requires help. For the price I think it’s worth it and I use it often and sometimes usually finding myself using it upwards of 80+ppt. To me, it’s a “more the merrier” type unless going for subtle nuances then it’s absolutely beneficial

  19. #19
    Basenotes Plus
    Claudio_Wu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Ireland
    Posts
    73

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Quote Originally Posted by danieldanieldaniel View Post
    I tend to like kind of dusty, floral perfumes. Things that smell more natural. I suppose when I start imagining what I want to evoke with a formula, I often come back to ideas of gloomy days in my childhood friend's country home and the monotonous, dusty and earthy smell of the American Southwest.
    My perception of dusty earthiness may be completely different to yours, but maybe you could try Geosmin in homeopathic doses for earthiness and Tobacarol for dustiness, possibly a bit of Terrasol. For the smell of an old but wooden house, I would suggest using Vertofix, hint of Fixateur 505 and hint of Birch Tar.
    These are my ideas, but you are looking for something that reminds you of a place I've never been, hence my guess. Perhaps there is someone from Southwest America here who could help you so much better.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Please Help Me Construct My Next Order

    Geraniol is very useful. I often switch it in with my fruit accords instead of linalool. In my notes, it smells like waxy rose. Would be useful in all kinds of floral accords as well as many other things.




Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 10th September 2020, 08:12 PM
  2. Lilac construct
    By xii in forum Fragrance DIY
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 16th June 2020, 09:10 PM
  3. Help me construct a nice collection!
    By Jake94 in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 26th November 2014, 11:55 PM
  4. "Paranoia Man" how would you construct this scent?
    By Francolino in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 8th October 2012, 11:05 PM
  5. Samples - What is your average order size & how often do you order? Examples?
    By whitelace in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 10th May 2010, 12:37 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000