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  1. #31
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    I like some here and there (Santal Blush, Soleil Blanc) but there's nothing as good or as innovative as Black Orchid these days. Or the stuff he did pre-TF at Gucci (Gucci Pour Homme, Envy for Men), YSL (Rive Gauche Pour Homme, Nu) and Lauder (Azuree Soleil Eau Fraiche, Youth Dew Amber Nude).
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  2. #32
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Proudly never owned any TF products. Never found anything worthy of my attention; nothing appealing about this house.

  3. #33
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    Thoughts?
    Agree with most of your points.

  4. #34

    Default Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    I recall the early days, more than 10 years ago, when Tom Ford came along with a range of bold compositions. Since then the brand has simply gone downhill. Not saying they have anything good anymore, but consider the red flags -

    • Reformulations and watering down the best ones, such as Tuscan Leather (watered down).
    • Many of the better scents discontinued for no reason
    • This is speculative - but apparently there are differences between theMade in USA vs. Made in Switzerland versions


    Thoughts?
    Tom Ford perfumes used to be the unattainable holy grail of perfumes for me when I just started looking past the usual designers many moons ago. A price point I never though I‘d buy at (still to this day, TF private blend at official pricing is some of the highest per ml, with the exceptions of Clive Christian et al.).

    Tuscan Leather was the one I had my eyes on for the longest time (and then finally got at a relative bargain). Then came Oud Minerale, Costa Azzura, Oud Wood and Mandarino di Amalfi.

    Can‘t talk about reformulations since I haven’t bought any TF since ever but back then, they were great and I was always excited to get one at a significantly lower price. It seems I almost bought them just because of the discount .

    Discontinuation has a reason, obviously. Sales numbers. Something doesn’t sell, it has to go. That‘s just economics. Even if regrettable.

    Funny you‘d mention Switzerland (my home country) I definitely need to read into this although it wouldn’t matter much as I‘d usually only be getting that version.

    So all in all, I am happy with the TF fragrances I have but somehow lost interest in TF as I discovered new and more interesting (niche) perfumes. Except for a refill of Costa Azzura from the signature line (which I will pour in the Private Blend bottle, just for the aesthetics of it) I probably won‘t be buying TF any time soon.his new offerings simply don’t interest me and the old stuff I wanted I still have.


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  5. #35

    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    I think my biggest issue with TF is that most of his fragrances are really linear & monotone. The perfume doesn’t evolve. It seems like all of his best fragrances did have scent evolution, and ironically those are ones he’s discontinued.
    Like Amber Absolute, Sahara Noir, TF extreme and Noir edp. I think those 3 are worth buying at retail price. And while not really my style, I do like Noir Extreme (though I think I prefer the femme version due to the added florals).

    I liked and owned a lot of them many moons ago when I first smelled them, like Tuscan leather, oud wood, tobacco vanille, etc- but soon after wearing them I quickly grew tired of the monotone, steady 1 note hum of them. I need stages in a fragrance.
    Fougere D’argent is excellent but again, it’s monotone.

    That said, I’m always excited to see what he’ll bring out next. His track record can’t be denied. I just wish he’d go back to making stuff like he did in the Gucci & YSL days.

    *Ive never smelled Italian cypress, London or moss breeches so I can’t speak on those.
    Last edited by Opiate; 9th April 2021 at 04:33 PM.

  6. #36

    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by Opiate View Post
    I think my biggest issue with TF is that most of his fragrances are really linear & monotone. The perfume doesn’t evolve.
    That's exactly what I think about Noir Anthracite. I only own one TF fragrance (Noir Anthracite), and I'm unable to detect any scent evolution. So I don't wear it.
    Currently wearing: Furyo by Jacques Bogart

  7. #37

    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by Jean-Sté View Post
    That's exactly what I think about Noir Anthracite. I only own one TF fragrance (Noir Anthracite), and I'm unable to detect any scent evolution. So I don't wear it.
    Ah, I actually think that one has a kind of "color shift" that's interesting, but it certainly doesn't transform entirely.

  8. #38

    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    All I can say is that started 2020 with half a dozen bottles, but I'm left now with one old half used bottle of Tuscan Leather with the black paint flaking off. Inside though is the original version of what is one of the iconic Private Collection scents from the early days. I don't love it, but it is a modern classic that deserves the occasional outing. Nothing I've smelled recently has persuaded me to buy any more. Some like Beau de Jour absolutely turn my stomach and are unwearable for me. I never did enjoy Oud Wood, there is an aromachemical in that that gives me a very bad reaction, probably the synthetic oud, and I've always had to scrub it.
    Last edited by Tristan45; 9th April 2021 at 09:45 AM.
    Currently wearing: Cabochard by Grès

  9. #39

    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by Tristan45 View Post
    All I can say is that started 2020 with half a dozen bottles, but I'm left now with one old half used bottle of Tuscan Leather with the black flaking off. Inside though is the original version of what is one of the iconic Private Collection scents from the early days. I don't love it, but it is a modern classic that deserves the occasional outing. Nothing I've smelled recently has persuaded me to buy any more. Some like Beau de Jour absolutely turn my stomach and are unwearable for me. I never did enjoy Oud Wood, there is an aromachemical in that that gives me a very bad reaction, probably the synthetic oud, and I've always had to scrub it.
    Oud Wood came off as burning rubber the more time I had with it. I can't envision how one would like that stuff.
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  10. #40
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Oud Wood came off as burning rubber the more time I had with it. I can't envision how one would like that stuff.
    Really? I loved this one the first time I tried it.

  11. #41
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by Tristan45 View Post
    Some like Beau de Jour absolutely turn my stomach and are unwearable for me. I never did enjoy Oud Wood, there is an aromachemical in that that gives me a very bad reaction, probably the synthetic oud, and I've always had to scrub it.
    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Oud Wood came off as burning rubber the more time I had with it. I can't envision how one would like that stuff.
    I have to agree with both sentiments. Beau de Jour has the most enormous amount of some sort of synthetic and highly sweetened lavender that turns my stomach. I find this so loud, I just have to scrub it. Same with Oud Wood. I am not an oud fan admittedly, but there are some that I find pleasant and this one is definitely not one of them.

    Come on TF. Bring back your real fragrances like Italian Cypress and Sahara Noir. What happened to you?

  12. #42
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    I own two, wort keeping in my wardrobe, Ombre Leather and Tom Ford For Men, I used to own Tom Ford Extreme, but the performance was horrible.

  13. #43
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    I recall the early days, more than 10 years ago, when Tom Ford came along with a range of bold compositions. Since then the brand has simply gone downhill. Not saying they have anything good anymore, but consider the red flags -

    • Top-loaded compositions, with almost always worse dry-downs (could go from good to ok, or great to good .....).
    • Reformulations and watering down the best ones, such as Tuscan Leather (watered down).
    • Many of the better scents discontinued for no reason (Sahara Noir, Italian Cypress, Moss Breches ....). Now it seems discontinuation is a strategy.
    • Launching relatively inexpensive versions of Private Blends in the Signature line (personally I do not care about this point at all, as I prefer cheaper, but some who paid a higher price initially could be annoyed).
    • Too many flankers to keep up with, most being trivial variations on another existing perfume.
    • This is speculative - but apparently there are differences between theMade in USA vs. Made in Switzerland versions of the same perfume. I wouldn't bet on that, but it is something I have read on the forums and elsewhere.

    If you compare that to something like Chanel or Hermes, just too many red flags IMO. Tom Ford will occasionally release a good perfume, but that seems more by chance than design. And in that case, if you really like it, better to buy several bottles soon since it will be discontinued or reformulated. I think that discontinuation and reformulation drive sales in this day and age, and Tom Ford looks to capitalise on that instead of staying true to the customer.

    Thoughts?
    I think Tom Ford's greatest strength was novelty. His brand was very early to the burgeoning scene of what is now big business: 'niche' and 'boutique' perfumery. Celebrity fragrances and cheaper/affordable fragrance brands like Calvin Klein are out, and the Le Labos and Tom Fords took their place, until now it's seen as 'the norm' to pay a lot for perfume.

    Unfortunately, I think Tom Ford stayed still (rather than went backwards, as some might think) while the perfume world caught up, and some brands passed his company by. There are some obvious concerns regarding reformulation of his original Private Blend fragrances - Tobacco Vanille is certainly not what it used to be, and is now mostly a vanilla scent, rather than a sweet-spicy tobacco. However, although the quantity of releases has grown - with many throwaway fragrances in the Private Blend, released as exclusive 'Intense' versions which seem more like not wanting to throw away all of the rough drafts that didn't make the final cut - the quality of Tom Ford's main releases has stayed steadily solid: Beau de Jour is fantastic, just like the original Tom Ford for Men. Noir Extreme is a gorgeous perfume, if feminine to my nose, and far superior to Sahara Noir - if the former was discontinued and the latter still made, I can guarantee there would be far more mourning.

    To make things even better, whether as a result of the pandemic or not, Tom Ford is making the very welcome move to shift several of their fragrances in to more affordable products: the Acqua line is back in some sort of capacity (Sole di Positano hasn't made the cut), Costa Azzurra and Beau de Jour are now part of the signature line, and Oud Minerale is also for sale for £120 for 100ml (there HERE for more on that).

    I would say that TF is still a far better brand to buy than 90% of the unwearable and pretentious bollocks that can be found elsewhere in the pseudo-indie corners of the boutique/niche world of upmarket/expensive fragrances. One thing they clearly have is early access to new materials and perfumers - Tobacco Oud was definitely something of a trend setter which has been somewhat copied by many brands. Byredo released their version of it 7 years later, which says it all.

    So I'd still expect the TF brand to appeal as it always has done - for those who enjoy the middle ground between 'good', well constructed, upmarket fragrances, and novelty/speed to market. All of this is done with a heavy dose of retro stylisation and while the best Tom Ford fragrances are the cheaper fragrances, at least in my opinion, as a brand there are far worse ones out there.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Beau de Jour by Tom Ford

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Mitchell View Post
    Though the Private Blend line has had some great stuff, I am starting to realize I mostly only like TF's designer releases and his signature releases. Not even because of price point, I just think those releases are more interesting and appealing to me. Everything in the Noir line, especially Anthracite, TF for Men, TF Extreme, BDJ, OL, Metallique, Costa Azzura. And I know the last three mentioned were once PB but are now Sigs and I honestly prefer them that way.
    You nailed it.

    The Tom Ford marketing nonsense about the Private Blend being TF's own, well, 'private collection' isn't as ridiculous as it sounds: it's clearly not being aimed at your average customer. There is an exclusivity to it that is used as the breeding ground for what the brand seeks to push to the forefront. In essence, it was always seen as something for guinea pigs. There have always been more PB fragrances than signature releases, that was the case in 2007 and is still the case now. Having tried the likes of Japon Noir, Moss Breches, and Bois Rouge, I can't say they're objectively superior fragrances to the ones that weren't discontinued - quite the opposite, I can see far more anger at Tuscan Leather being discontinued than any of the above.

    One of the objectives for the Priate Blend is clearly to put the gaudy, colour-centric bottles like Lavender Extreme, Jasmin Rouge, and Fucking Fabulous at the centre of the line - as something separate from the maroon bottles. The latter in particular is evidently appealing to a particular kind of wealthy, perhaps even glib, almost certainly gay consumer who wants something luxurious but doesn't want to spend hours or thousands of dollars/pounds on delving deep in to the niche world. He's appealing to a particular client with these scents and the colour change is largely reflective of how visual culture is far more important in 2020 than it was in 2007, with colour being a great way to stand out from the crowd, as most people are now buying online and not in store.

    But perhaps the more important component is the 'signature' line - or, you know, what most people are going to buy when they buy a Tom Ford. These scents are infinitely more wearable, better composed to my nose as they avoid the 'burnt plastic' smell of the Private Blend fixatives, and obviously far more affordable. It does make for a slightly clunky business strategy to discontinue and re-release something for a lot less money within the space of 12 months, but most people buying BdJ won't even know this. It's only within enthusiast circles where this sort of thing really matters, and whether it matters at all is another matter entirely. To my nose, the signature version of Beau de Jour is actually marginally better and I fully believe that people are judging with their prejudices towards price and perceived value, rather than their nose, when they suggest the opposite.

    Complaining that Tom Ford produces fragrances that 'smell like they are cheap' misses the point. His main perfumes are in the standard luxury designer range - the Chanels, Diors etc. They're £80-150ish. If you're buying the Private Blend, you're either buying it for the novelty factor and because you love the marketing - which I have to say, when it comes to something like Fucking Fabulous, is clearly well conceived for what it is, and who it is targeting - or you're on the dopamine train of wanting to sample or buy anything and everything that is expensive in the fragrance world.

    The one caveat is that I'd be annoyed if I really loved a scent - like, say, Tobbaco Oud Intense - only to discover it was gone for good within 2-3 years. Likewise, reformulations in the signature line in a similar sort of timescale is annoying.

    But I wouldn't even really think of TF as an overpriced house, primarily because his fragrances are in the 'standard' range of prices, particularly when you consider the grey market. 100ml of the Tom Ford can almost always be had for £50-80. The Private Blend scents, although there are more of them, are clearly operating on a different level and should be thought of differently.

    Put it this way: if they didn't release the 'Vert' line, or several different 'Fougeres', would people actually be happy? Would they be happy with very few Private Blend releases? Or does it allow people the chance to try different shades of similar scents; particularly those with loads of fragrances who don't wear one fragrance regularly and so don't burn through a bottle within a year or two?

    As I say, there are far worse offenders in the world of ripping people off. Tom Ford has more misses than hits, but when they hit, I'm not sure there's anyone hitting 'better' than TF. As much as you have to love Dior and Chanel, comparing their masculine output in the same time period is dreadful. Name a better set of fragrances released by one of the big European fashion houses that could rival Beau de Jour, Tom Ford for Men, Grey Vetiver, and Noir Extreme? In my opinion, you can't. When TF hits, he hits, and that's why so many people inside and outside the enthusiast world maintain their interest in the brand.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Beau de Jour by Tom Ford

  15. #45
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    I also think the 'beauty' of these kind of discussions is you have so many different people listing so many different fragrances as 'the best' from Tom Ford, you realise that, actually, there are plenty of fragrances that are well-loved by enthusiasts. Which tells me that the criticism is largely undeserved, at least not to the extent some are issuing it with.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Beau de Jour by Tom Ford

  16. #46

    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    Ah, I actually think that one has a kind of "color shift" that's interesting, but it certainly doesn't transform entirely.
    Maybe I should give Noir Anthracite more tries...
    Currently wearing: Furyo by Jacques Bogart

  17. #47

    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I like some here and there (Santal Blush, Soleil Blanc) but there's nothing as good or as innovative as Black Orchid these days. Or the stuff he did pre-TF at Gucci (Gucci Pour Homme, Envy for Men), YSL (Rive Gauche Pour Homme, Nu) and Lauder (Azuree Soleil Eau Fraiche, Youth Dew Amber Nude).
    I find Black Orchid a touch repulsive (I actually prefer the Ard Al Zaafaran riff on it, Oud 24 Hours, for being a bit smoother and woodier), but there's no denying that it's distinctive.

    I think that distinctiveness is what gets lost in the flood of releases we get now. The Private Blend releases might be linear, but they had showmanship: they were statement fragrances.

    I think that TF has struggled to maintain that effect, more just because its lineup is so crowded. Black Orchid has had how many flankers now?

    The Basenotes crowd rightly mourns the loss of stuff like Sahara Noir (surely one of the best incense-dominant fragrances ever released in the designer segment), but it's also easy to see why it ended up on the chopping block.

    I think my frustration with the house is that I'm not sure it quite knows what to do with its scents and the marketplace. I get the sense that the house is throwing stuff at the wall to see what sticks, hiding behind certainty that the market will bear that level of experimentation given the high profit margin on their fragrances.

  18. #48
    Basenotes Institution Danny Mitchell's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by slpfrsly View Post
    I also think the 'beauty' of these kind of discussions is you have so many different people listing so many different fragrances as 'the best' from Tom Ford, you realise that, actually, there are plenty of fragrances that are well-loved by enthusiasts. Which tells me that the criticism is largely undeserved, at least not to the extent some are issuing it with.
    Just as I was in the middle of reading this, I was reaching the same realization of 'A lot of people are listing their favorite TFs in here and wow, there are a lot!"' If the favorites fragrances among a small group reaches levels of two or three dozen, that's pretty strong!
    "Ducks eat for free at Subway."

  19. #49

    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    If I didn't go all natural, I'd still have Plum Japonais, Tobacco Oud, Vert d'encens, and Oud Minerale. Haven't seen any substitutes for them, natural or not.

  20. #50

    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by techt View Post
    I used to own Tom Ford Extreme, but the performance was horrible.
    My perception of that one changes a lot depending on weather, both in performance and accord structure. In colder weather it seems to go away quickly, but in warm weather it seems to scream off my skin (enough so that my wife complained it was too loud when she was sitting ten feet away).

    It seems a lot more truffle-y on warm days. Darker and more "fig jam"-y on colder days.
    Last edited by Brooks Otterlake; 9th April 2021 at 07:24 PM.

  21. #51
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    It seems a lot more truffle-y on warm days. More dark and "fig jam"-y on colder days.
    I've actually noticed that as well.

  22. #52
    Dependent slpfrsly's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Mitchell View Post
    Just as I was in the middle of reading this, I was reaching the same realization of 'A lot of people are listing their favorite TFs in here and wow, there are a lot!"' If the favorites fragrances among a small group reaches levels of two or three dozen, that's pretty strong!
    Yes, precisely!
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Beau de Jour by Tom Ford

  23. #53
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Mitchell View Post
    Just as I was in the middle of reading this, I was reaching the same realization of 'A lot of people are listing their favorite TFs in here and wow, there are a lot!"' If the favorites fragrances among a small group reaches levels of two or three dozen, that's pretty strong!
    He certainly has a wide array of diverse offerings, which is one thing that I enjoy about the house. Too bad all of the best ones get discontinued...

  24. #54
    Basenotes Institution freewheelingvagabond's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tom Ford not worth buying anymore ......

    Quote Originally Posted by techt View Post
    ..... Tom Ford Extreme, but the performance was horrible.
    My experience as well.
    Currently wearing: Insensé by Givenchy




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