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  1. #1
    Basenotes Junkie khanada's Avatar
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    Default Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Hi Vintage People,

    I am obsessed with carnations right now and I think I probably need to go vintage due to IFRA’s restrictions on cloves. I have vintage Bellodgia PDT (probably 60s, very weird aerosol spray bottle that has slightly turned but settles after an hour). I expect this will be something of a quest, and many windmills to tilt at, so some guidance would be incredibly helpful. I’ll even take a bouquet if it features very prominent carnation.

    Can you guys make some suggestions? I’m desperate and I don’t know where to even start . Thank you in advance!
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Hermes Equipage is pretty carnation prominent.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Quote Originally Posted by khanada View Post

    Can you guys make some suggestions? I’m desperate and I don’t know where to even start . Thank you in advance!
    Garofano (Carnation) Santa Maria Novella would be something to look at.
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  4. #4
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Caron Bellodgia.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Ho Hang Club by Balenciaga would be my top choice.

    The nice thing is 1.7oz bottles are still very reasonably priced. It was marketed to men, but in today’s day and age, it would hit the shelves as a unisex offering.
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  6. #6
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Hi Khanada—

    Carnation notes appear in many vintage compositions so you may need to settle on whether you are looking for something that presents the flower in a soliflore scent or one where the carnation plays a role in a more complex composition.

    For a soliflore-type carnation, I would keep looking for a Mary Chess bottle.

    For significant carnation in more complex vintage perfumes, you could try Lelong Indiscret, Lanvin Crescendo, Patou Moment Supreme, or Coty L’Origan. You’re safe with any Crescendo or Moment Supreme bottle, but you’ll need to search for older Indiscret and L’Origan since more recent reformulations are in circulation.

    Those vintages situate carnation amid spicy, ambered accords. Another option would be vintage L’Air du Temps. Again, you want a “deep vintage” bottle, but they’re not hard to find. Vintage LADT offers carnation within a beautiful floral bouquet.
    Currently wearing: Ysatis by Givenchy

  7. #7
    Dependent saminlondon's Avatar
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    The vintage Patous have a very prominent carnation note to my nose (Adieu Sagesse, Normandie, and others in the 'Ma Collection' range). It was very much part of the house style.

    But steer clear of the most recent incarnations (ho ho).

  8. #8

    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Carnation is one of my favourite notes, but seems terribly out of fashion at the moment not helped by the restrictions on key carnation notes by IFRA.
    Floris Malmaison is an old school carnation, but you are looking at vintage bottles only and it's hard to track down.
    Caron's Poivre, only discontinued last year, is a gorgeous luxurious spicy clove carnation. The last iterations of the extract were just about ok, but the vintage is stunning if you can find it. Another vote too for the gorgeous Caron Bellodgia, a softer take on carnation.
    Another one that is worth trying is Serge Lutens Vitriol d'Oeillet - the later dry down is supposed to be reminiscent of the legendary Iris Gris. You'll either love it or hate it.
    Left field recommendation, that would need ordering from the UK, is Green Carnation by Pell Wall and as the name suggests, focuses on the green, sappy nature of carnation. The perfumer is the guy who did Beaver for Zoologist, so he knows his way around modern ingredients.
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  9. #9
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Quote Originally Posted by saminlondon View Post
    The vintage Patous have a very prominent carnation note to my nose (Adieu Sagesse, Normandie, and others in the 'Ma Collection' range). It was very much part of the house style.
    Agree with this, also many long-gone Caron perfumes of which we shall not speak, eheu. A Ma Collection mini would be a good tester.
    Currently wearing: Ysatis by Givenchy

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Here’s another, which would allow you to get in touch with your inner Lola Falana—- Faberge Tigress. Again, you need a good vintage bottle but they are widely available.

    Here’s a fun post about Tigress from the inimitable and irreplaceable Gaia Fishler (The Non Blonde):

    http://www.thenonblonde.com/2014/03/...l#.YHracxD3ahA
    Currently wearing: Ysatis by Givenchy

  11. #11

    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    I love Carnation as well. Perhaps JHL by aramis might be of interest.

  12. #12
    I’m not old, I’m vintage.
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    A Ma Collection mini would be a good tester.
    One can occasionally find the entire Patou Ma Collection set for sub-unicorn $, which I highly recommend.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Derby & Dunhill (1934)
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  14. #14
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Quote Originally Posted by checkmate View Post
    Ho Hang Club by Balenciaga would be my top choice.
    This one and Moschino Pour Homme and Derby.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tradition View Post
    Derby & Dunhill (1934)
    I need to look for it in Dunhill for Men.

  15. #15
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    Unhappy Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Monsieur Lanvin has a a wonderful representation of Carnation and a healthy dose of Civet blended in.

    Carnation is an important note in most of the Vintage Caron I have nosed. They also have the Daltrof Mousse de Saxe.
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  16. #16

    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Quote Originally Posted by Bavard View Post
    This one and Moschino Pour Homme and Derby.



    I need to look for it in Dunhill for Men.
    No matter how good, sometimes vintage carnation dominant fragrances stand out too much and many people instantly associate them as being too retro because it was quite heavily used in men’s and women’s fragrances of the distant past. Also, strong carnation can wear people down quite rapidly. So, I go for timeless and well blended carnation fragrances, Derby and Equipage fall perfectly in this category while Dunhill can be more of an acquired taste, but I can feel a good dose of carnation in it providing a cooling and light barbershoppy character to the otherwise serious tobacco, amber, Jasmine, nutmeg and sandalwood notes.

    Derby was also sold with the tag line ‘Barbare et tres civilize’, maybe carnation was added to help keep it civilized and trigger associations with barbershop gentlemanly fragrances of the past.

    Cartier Santos is another fragrance that uses carnation to provide some cooling effect to the darker and spicier notes. Your interests are more attuned towards the patchouli themed fragrances .
    Currently wearing: Jasmine by Floris

  17. #17
    Basenotes Junkie khanada's Avatar
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Hi guys absolutely thank you so much!!

    I knew this was going to be something of a quest, as, yes, between IFRA and changing times, Carnation has been, for the moment, relegated to the dust bin. While it is true that my native taste runs toward spicy fragrance, I love a well crafted floral, a zesty citrus, and pretty florientals. My idea Carnation would be an assertive, gutsy, spicy accord with so much clove that it probably skips 5th period, hides at the local coffee house, and writes endless poetry about the darkeness pain of living with Bauhaus on its iPods, wreathed in the smoke of Djarum Black. With a phat cushion of Amber to support it, yet some freshness around the top.

    I went ahead, and purchased that bottle of Mary Chess. I believe it has been around since the 30s s no idea as to its actual age. Packaging looks to be 50s/early 60s but I can’t tell much from the photos. I think it will be interesting regardless of how well it satisfies my partuciar cravings. If it does, or even if it doesn’t I would love to try SMN Garafano, as it seems like exactly the that house does best—scents out of step worn time, impeccable in every way. I should perhaps revisit Vitriol—I was disappointed with its lack of ... vitriol, I guess.

    That is very good to know about Ho Hang Club!! I wear masculine scents often, and masculine florals are a special interest. Can’t wait to get my nose on it.

    So ... thank you. Please continue here, if you think of anything else
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  18. #18
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Aramis Devin Country Cologne

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  19. #19
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Overlooked, but Monsieur Houbigant/Monsieur Musk (1973) has a nice carnation note.
    Also, Le 3ème Homme de Caron (1985) aka The Third Man or Number Three.
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  20. #20
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Three others have just come to mind: Etro's Dianthus, Royal Oeillet by Oriza Legrand, and Carnation by Comme des Garçons (the last one dc'd, I think, but maybe not completely out of reach).

    Edit: sorry, overlooked the 'vintage' bit!
    Last edited by saminlondon; 19th April 2021 at 03:47 PM.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    If you want another carnation/clove heavy leather, the stunning, and uncompromising Peau d'Espagne by Santa Maria Novella is pretty unbeatable. It's powerful stuff though.
    Currently wearing: Diorling by Christian Dior

  22. #22

    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    +1 for Caron Poive, and don't forget Caron Coup de Fouet.

    But really, I would have to say that JAR Golconda is the best carnation soleflore imo.
    Sans parfum, la peau est muette.

    What I'm wearing:

    1. Annick Goutal Sables
    2. Parfums MDCI Invasion Barbare
    3. Lagerfeld Cologne (vintage)
    4. Chanel Eau de Cologne
    5. Balenciaga Le Dix
    6. Fendi Theorema

  23. #23

    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Maybe also:

    Balenciaga Florabotanica, while not certain if qualifying as vintage due to its first release as late as 2012, one of the personal favorites fragrances with a floral, just carnation note fragrance,

    - vintage Dior Poison another favorite among vintages with more "generalist", complex floral notes,

    - vintage Versace The Dreamer, a quite unisex floral tobacco

    - vintage Clin d'Oeil by Bourjois

    while seconding especially the vintage versions of L'Air du Temps including some flankers of this, Guerlain Derby, the aforementioned Caron options, Etro Dianthus, Devin and JHL

  24. #24
    Dependent Slayerized's Avatar
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Villoresi Garofano +1
    My Top '12':

    - Paco Rabanne: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - Guerlain: Héritage (vtg)
    - Mancera: Red Tobacco/Aoud Vanille
    - Armani: AdG Profumo
    - Azzaro: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - Antaeus (vtg)
    - Thierry Mugler: A*men
    - Initio: Side Effect
    - D&G: Pour Homme (vtg)
    - YSL: Kouros (vtg)
    - Vermeil: Pour Homme

  25. #25

    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    I second L’air du temps and, if memory serves me well, Caron Fleurs de rocaille.
    Currently wearing: Classic Chypre by Esteban

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    I think you should try Krizia Uomo
    Oleg cassini for men
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  27. #27

    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    How did you find the Mary Chess? I have an old bottle and it is almost syrup, but still a very fresh carnation with a little spice. Mary Chess Violet is really beautiful, too.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Vintage Carnation Suggestions??

    Houbigant Raffinee, L'Air du Temps again, Miller Harris Fleur Oriental, Old Spice, Vintage Opium edt, Caron en Avion, Red Moscow, and not vintage but put together like any good vintage, DSH Oeillet Rouges and Fleuriste. If you can ever find it Roger and Gallet Blue Carnation is one to try.
    Edited to add my beloved Teatro Alla Scala & Detchema.




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