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  1. #1
    The_Cologneist's Avatar
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    Default Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Candies for Men for sure.. it's amazing that this gets such high marks from people who review it. For nostalgic value, sure, it can be as high as your heart desires, but as a fragrance, it's very mediocre.
    All Time Top 10: Fahrenheit, Fahrenheit Absolute, Corduroy, Seduction in Black, Itasca, Arpege pH, Burberry London, Spark Seduction, Paul Smith Man, Eau des Baux

  2. #2
    The Scented Devil
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    That's tough for me, because it's hard to remember what was already discontinued and became a unicorn before I tried it, and what was discontinued and then got crazy hype long after I already made an opinion of it. From what I can recall, the following severely did not live up to all the worship:

    Calvin by Calvin Klein (1981) - All the talk of this one being "the one true and only good Calvin Klein masculine fragrance" makes me laugh hysterically. Yeah, it's a good 80's powerhouse fougère that I don't regret stumbling across for a thrift store price, but the hype for this used to be nuts. The only reason methinks this one got all the kum-bay-yas and prostration a few years ago is it was made before CK decided to go the synthetic future-is-now direction they took with Obsession (1985) and onward. It's the only conservatively-constructed and conventional/traditional men's fragrance from CK, so if that's what you look for in a fragrance, I can understand why people here love it. Just a guess, but it probably got discontinued because it likely didn't fit the rest of the house's creative direction after Obsession, Eternity, and cK One took off.

    Gucci Rush for Men (1999) - A peppery creamy lavender woody amber musk thing that might have been new in 1999, but became a trope later one. The plastic box bottle is cool, very pre-collapse Millennial futurist, but that isn't enough for me. Rush for Men gets compared to Azzaro Visit a lot, and the latter is quite different in some ways, but it can just about substitute for Rush in vibe. Later on the woody/nutty lavender thing would become a popular trope for niche fragrances too, like Parfums de Marly Pegasus (2011), so there are a lot of options in this style. I give Rush props for being first, but compared to all the things out there now that get you to the same destination, it really isn't all that amazing, especially for the prices it commands. Just a ho-hum fragrance that was maybe a bit ahead of the equally ho-hum curve.

    Chanel Bois Noir (1987) - This is literally just Chanel Égoïste (1990) in its "open beta" form. I detected some lavender, birch smoke, and a bit rounder citrus in the opening that makes it wear darker, more serious for the first 30 minutes or so. Once you hit that jammy rose core, the ambrette seed and sandalwood base, it's the same fragrance, and you soon forget all about those brief differences and think you're wearing vintage Égoïste. Yeah, vintage Égoïste is better than current and worth the upcharge when you find it, but Bois Noir is easily double to triple that even, and for about 30 minutes of a slightly more humorless opening, seems an unfair trade-off. There are reasons Polge tweaked Bois Noir into Égoïste, and you realize that when you smell it.

    Guerlain Derby (1985) - Arguably the most masculine Guerlain, and the only proper 80's powerhouse men's scent from them, this is another example of "I see why people like this" but can't understand the intensity of veneration. To me, this clearly smells like Jean-Paul Guerlain was riffing off Chanel Antaeus with the green castoreum leather chypre, but shoved a bunch of powdery handbaggy Guerlinade into the mix so it homologated with scents like Habit Rouge (1965). I mean yeah, that makes sense for the time: make a really butch leather that was en vogue in the 80's and then Guerlain it up, instant success, but also a bit too "obvious" and heavy-handed. Guerlain isn't known for the hyper-macho vibe and it shows with Derby. Tack on beyond-stupid prices and I'm just gonna reach for Antaeus all day every day. Héritage (1992) felt more properly Guerlain to me.

    Yves Saint Laurent Jazz Prestige (1993) - The word "masterpiece" gets slung around a lot with this one, when regular Yves Saint Laurent Jazz (1988) was just fine and this feels like oneupmanship to Pasha de Cartier (1992). YSL didn't like investing millions into putting out an old-school fougère as their first fragrance independent of Charles of the Ritz, then being shown up by Cartier when they did it better with Pasha. Jazz Prestige is another example of "a good fragrance if had for a good price", but it's really just a fruitier spicier Jazz, being like Pasha but "a little bit extra" in ways that make it more 90's but not better. I'm guessing YSL realized the redundancy and moved on with Opium pour Homme (1995) two years later. It's good and I'm happy to have it, but it's not worth blood money nor a masterpiece.

    PS: I like everything here except the Rush, I just don't see the value. If any of these are your absolute pride and joy fragrances, sorry not sorry to burst your bubble. We can still be friends or you can ignore list me. Either works lol
    Reviews Wordpress Archive here --> The Scented Devil
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  3. #3

    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Hi The_

    Too early, just up, mis read title.


    SixCats!

  4. #4
    Dependent slpfrsly's Avatar
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    I'd have to go with Gucci Nobile.

    I'll post my review dissecting why it's overrated in the basenotes blog section one of these days as it wasn't deemed acceptable to go up on the review page despite being submitted a long time ago.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Beau de Jour by Tom Ford

  5. #5
    Dependent slpfrsly's Avatar
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    And Gucci Rush is great. The fact no one has been able to replicate what it achieves within a woody-masculine fragrance in over 20 years is precisely why it deserves all the praise it gets. This praise is well deserved even when considering its obvious limitations with regard to performance, synthetic quality, and current second hand pricing. Gucci Pour Homme, for instance, has two developments on the same template by Almairac. No one has managed to capture the genius of Rush: not in the vetiver-sawdust of Wonderwood, the creamy sweetness of Tam Dao, nor the synthetic rubbish of supposed replacements like Sartoriale. There is quite literally not a single woody fragrance on the market, or even discontinued, that manages to capture the magic of Rush.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Beau de Jour by Tom Ford

  6. #6
    Missing Oakmoss

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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    To me, Midnight in Paris is overrated - I find it pleasant, nice but not remarkable. The bottle is more stunning than the fragrance.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Habit Rouge Sport

    I think it's gone now anyway. Difficult to judge whether it was overrated -- it was hyped a bit.

    The whole concept was awful imo and I don't think the fragrance worked.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    I totally agree with the already mentioned Bois Noir, Derby, Jazz Prestige, and Gucci Nobile (haven't tried the others cited). And I'll add one more to the list:

    Dunhill Blend 30

    I'm sure this will ruffle some feathers, but this one baffles me as to why it's so hyped. I was pleasantly surprised recently to have been PIF'd a decant of Blend 30 EdT from a generous BNer (many thanks!) and I've given it numerous samplings. Meh, it's good, but it certainly doesn't "wow" me by any stretch. And the worst part is how short-lived it is (at least for me). I mean, goodness, I have aftershaves that last 10 times longer than Blend 30 EdT. I am convinced that the only reason this one gets the hype is due to its scarcity.
    Last edited by aero58; 22nd April 2021 at 02:03 PM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    I lucked into a bottle of PATOU POUR HOMME a few years back.

    It was certainly a very nice scent. I gather it may have gone for a kind of a premium price back when it was in production.

    But nice as it was, I was grateful I didn't pay some crazy premium price for it. Lots of other stuff I own that is preferable.
    Between Covid and retirement I don't get out much. But when I do, I smell real good.

  10. #10
    Dependent slpfrsly's Avatar
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Given that Tom Ford discontinues fragrances between 2-5 years after release, there are a lot of discontinued fragrances that aren't 'vintage'.
    “If it is not right do not do it; if it is not true do not say it.”
    Currently wearing: Beau de Jour by Tom Ford

  11. #11

    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Escada Magnetism. Yes, it's a pleasant fragrance, but not at the sky-high prices you see on eBay.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nastka View Post
    Escada Magnetism. Yes, it's a pleasant fragrance, but not at the sky-high prices you see on eBay.
    It was an excellent designer when in production though, it’s just that the pricing has overgrown it
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  13. #13
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nastka View Post
    Escada Magnetism.
    This.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Quote Originally Posted by aero58 View Post
    I totally agree with the already mentioned Bois Noir, Derby, Jazz Prestige, and Gucci Nobile (haven't tried the others cited). And I'll add one more to the list:

    Dunhill Blend 30

    I'm sure this will ruffle some feathers, but this one baffles me as to why it's so hyped. I was pleasantly surprised recently to have been PIF'd a decant of Blend 30 EdT from a generous BNer (many thanks!) and I've given it numerous samplings. Meh, it's good, but it certainly doesn't "wow" me by any stretch. And the worst part is how short-lived it is (at least for me). I mean, goodness, I have aftershaves that last 10 times longer than Blend 30 EdT. I am convinced that the only reason this one gets the hype is due to its scarcity.
    I get very good longevity from Blend 30 (both in EDT and aftershave form).

  15. #15

    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    I won't belabor the point since there's a whole thread about it, but Rive Gauche would be my number one choice.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    I won't belabor the point since there's a whole thread about it, but Rive Gauche would be my number one choice.
    I assume you mean Rive Gauche Pour Homme since the standard version is still easy to get both vintage and new.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    I think anything that was cheap that now goes for 2-3x it's price. Gucci Pour Homme II & Rive Gauche come to mind. Good scents sure, but Gucci Pour Homme II was a $40 fragrance not this $200 crap you see now.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Agree with Patou Pour Homme, Guerlain Djedi could be added in the list.

    I'd add Creed Vintage Tabarome, used to be wanted by many Creed enthusiasts back in the day.
    CREED VINTAGE TABAROME FLACON TESTER.jpg
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  19. #19
    Dependent Mark_Trail's Avatar
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Agree with Patou Pour Homme,
    ]
    Plus a trillion!
    I think we should all try and get this important msg. known!
    Prices for Patou pour Homme need to drop , a lot!!


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  20. #20
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    Agree with Patou Pour Homme
    This is probably my most expensive overrated purchase. I got so close to buying a FB, but my decant, which was not cheap, saved me from that mistake.

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Quote Originally Posted by Brooks Otterlake View Post
    I won't belabor the point since there's a whole thread about it, but Rive Gauche would be my number one choice.
    Along with Gucci Nobile mentioned above, there are quite a few still in production that are easily close enough given the price differential.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    1) Furyo
    2) Givenchy Insense
    3) M7
    4) Creed Vetiver
    5) Tsar
    Currently wearing: Jasmine by Floris

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Escada pour homme

  24. #24
    Wearing Perfume Right Now
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    I tend to be clueless about what's been discontinued.

    Take Tsar and Rive Gauche Pour Homme - I have seen those in a perfume shop in the recent past, I seem to recall - but recent to me is around three years, so maybe they've been discontinued since then. On Tsar, maybe I imagined seeing it, but I don't think so. For Rive Gauche Pour Homme, I remember exactly where it was displayed in Bergdorf Goodman.

    "Overrating" is an interesting concept. I sometimes have a vague feeling that something is overrated, but more often recently, I've been feeling like it's not really a thing (as long as people are honest / aren't caught up in joining a bandwagon).

    I might have said Blend 30 was overrated, but having seen it mentioned earlier in the thread, I now consider it correctly rated.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Tsar has a really pungent start, but when it finally does settle I can see some of the appeal. I don't know how overrated it may be though. Before it was discontinued I remember mostly comparisons to Drakkar Noir but no big hype. But considering the grey market pricing for it, I don't think it's worth it. In it's last formulation, it smells very much like its original $25 price tag.

    I'm waffling on Rive Gauche PH. I'm starting to like it again. It's reputation is well-deserved. But if you're experiencing it after reading all the unicorn hype it's hard to appreciate it for what is as opposed to what you thought it would be.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Tend to agree with ZC; Bois Noir is exceptionally overrated, and this from a huge fan of Egoiste and its variants.

    Were Bois Noir *the same price* as vintage Egoiste, OK maybe. But at the absurd prices it commands, you'd think you were getting some magical version of Egoiste whereupon a genie appears to grant a wish every time you wear it, when, in reality, its basically the same thing - except its longevity is not nearly as good as (vintage) Egoiste (or ECC).

    Thank the perfume gods for Strifeknot, that I was able to sample a few MLs of Bois Noir to arrive at this conclusion.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Rive Gauche is a wonderful fragrance with excellent construction.

    Some of the ingredients smell cheap; the patchouli note in particular, while one of the best things about the composition, is rendered a little cheaply and gets grating over time. Given that I had trouble selling NIB bottles of this for $40 after I realized I'd never use my backups, the current pricetag and reputation is ludicrous.

    Toward Minimalism:
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  28. #28
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    I haven't smelled this, but at the price ppl are asking, it has to belong here as an overrated frag.

    375x500.490.jpg

  29. #29
    I’m not old, I’m vintage.
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    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    I think there's a meaningful semantic difference between overrated and overpriced. There are some fine fragrances in this thread that are being tagged as "overrated" because of unicorn pricing. I would argue, for example, that—on a purely olfactory basis—no fragrance is worth the prices Patou for Homme fetches (or at least asks) in the market, but that doesn't mean it isn't great stuff. Some fragrances use painfully expensive ingredients, or are extremely difficult to find: there, you're paying for something beyond how it actually smells. If you're OK with that, then it's "worth it." Likewise, I don't think Derby or Blend 30 are overrated, just overpriced.

    Overrated would be something that gets critical praise or fanatical devotion it doesn't warrant: e.g., Aventus, which strikes me as a perfectly fine fragrance but hardly the be-all, end-all the maniacal batch-code-parsers would have one believe.

    But then, we're back to the usual banter about what we do and don't like as if it were an objective assessment. It's probably more accurate to say that any fragrance you've experienced is exactly as good as you think it is.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Most Overrated Discontinued Frags?

    Quote Originally Posted by PStoller View Post
    It's probably more accurate to say that any fragrance you've experienced is exactly as good as you think it is.
    A hundred percent true.




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