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  1. #1
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    Default Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    and scrambling to find new ways to create old smells
    https://www.washingtonpost.com/magaz...-safety-rules/

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    Interesting read. Thanks for sharing.
    Remember that while it is perfectly acceptable to criticize the content of a post - criticizing the poster is not.
    Mean spirited, nasty, snide, sarcastic, hateful, and rude individuals on Basenotes don't warrant or deserve my or other Basenoters' acknowledgement or respect.

  3. #3
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    Default April 21 Washington Post article about fragrance regulation

    (I think you're allowed three free article views per month.)
    https://www.washingtonpost.com/magaz...-safety-rules/

    A Big Stink in the World of Perfume
    Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations — and scrambling to find new ways to create old smells
    Currently wearing: Witch Cornelia by Disney

  4. #4

    Default Re: April 21 Washington Post article about fragrance regulation

    I was just coming here to post this! Great article, thanks for sharing.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    Thanks for sharing! Ugh this makes me scared for the future. I think perfumers will always find ways to make great work within the given regulations, but I worry about the state pre-existing fragrances as these rules take away more and more of their fundamental materials.

    I've experienced some rashes recently testing indie perfumes that don't follow IFRA requirements, so I totally respect the need for some regulation. But this new set of rules seems to go way too far. I'm not even mad at those houses that caused a reaction on me, but I wish they had a warning "may cause contact dermatitis, patch test before use." A warning like that would totally solve the issue for me, no need to even list all the ingredients. Like a lot of cosmetic products that suggest patch testing before use, I don't see why fragrance can't go this route.

    I hope the fears are overblown and the fragrances I love will still be great when this new set of rules is fully in effect, but when I read things like no jasmine sambac, I don't have so much faith.

    Sidenote, Frederic Malle's alleged next release is titled "Synthetic Jungle", I wonder if this is a bit of a jab at the regulators increasingly forcing them to use synthetics to replicate natural accords.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    Quote Originally Posted by cheapimitation View Post
    I've experienced some rashes recently testing indie perfumes that don't follow IFRA requirements, so I totally respect the need for some regulation. But this new set of rules seems to go way too far. I'm not even mad at those houses that caused a reaction on me, but I wish they had a warning "may cause contact dermatitis, patch test before use." A warning like that would totally solve the issue for me, no need to even list all the ingredients. Like a lot of cosmetic products that suggest patch testing before use, I don't see why fragrance can't go this route.
    Exactly, a warning label for contact dermatitis should be standard in the beauty industry. Actual toxic chemicals like carcinogens I'm happy to see banned.

    Incidentally, the only time I've experienced reactions to fragrances have been recent IFRA regulated ones. Give me my vintage pre-regulation perfumes anytime.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    Quote Originally Posted by cheapimitation View Post
    ...
    Sidenote, Frederic Malle's alleged next release is titled "Synthetic Jungle", I wonder if this is a bit of a jab at the regulators increasingly forcing them to use synthetics to replicate natural accords.
    Makes sense.
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  8. #8
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    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    I loved this article.
    Reviews Wordpress Archive here --> The Scented Devil
    Instagram here --> Varanis Ridari @the_scented_devil
    Formerly Zealot Crusader
    Currently wearing: Roadster Sport by Cartier

  9. #9

    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    So, I went googling around to see what's the other side of the story before I get worked up into a backup bottle buying hysteria and found this very useful breakdown of what the new regulations actually mean on Frangrantica.

    Reading that did put my mind at ease. Especially the jasmine example, that the new regulations are still well above what even the most jasmine laden perfumes contain.

    What is hilarious is the absolute shit show that is the comments section of that frangrantica article. A bunch of chickens running around with their head cut off screaming the sky is falling when the article is telling them the sky will remain intact. I guess people just conclude what they want even when presented with clear and concise facts, which is sad.

    I still believe IFRA isn't going about this the right way, but I also don't think this will be the fragrance apocalypse some are making it out to be.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    I'm sure in the future it could become technically possible to create "perfect" juices synthetically that match or exceed the classics. Perhaps even tailored and fine-tuned to personal taste, by help of AI. Speaking from a technical perspective, that is.

    BUT I am sceptical because maximizing profit is (and will be) the driving force in the business. Niche and indie houses (who may be more into the "art" side of things) will not have the resources to utilize the technical possibilities or invest in the required R&D.

    My dream? Old skool styles - fougeres, chypres, powerhouses - become fashionable again at some point (and hence economically feasible to produce) and I can buy awesome present day concoctions without any of the allergens that give me issues, not to mention the degraded top notes and risk of getting a turned vintage bottle.
    Spray less, love more.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    I suspect this has affected Celine already. It is suspicious why they held back Rimbaud and Bois Dormant. They said they would release them in 2020, but it is already closing in towards halfway into 2021. Based on the interviews, it was already created, so it is a mystery why they are unable to launch it. I suspect that the original formula was not compliant with the new regulations and they're struggling to reformulate it to get Hedi's approval.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    Nice article with quite some face palmers in the comments section.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    Interesting article. Thanks.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    Thank you for sharing.
    If ever being a fragrance creator or even in any profession/business/line of work even marginally related to fragrances, fashion, cosmetics, luxury industries, beauty care etc. would likely feel at least somewhat stifled by increasing restrictiveness.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    Thanks for sharing!

  16. #16

    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    Quote Originally Posted by cheapimitation View Post
    What is hilarious is the absolute shit show that is the comments section of that frangrantica article. A bunch of chickens running around with their head cut off screaming the sky is falling when the article is telling them the sky will remain intact. I guess people just conclude what they want even when presented with clear and concise facts, which is sad.
    Sounds like business as usual for Fragrantica's user base. There must be something in the water over there.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    The comment section is surprisingly hostile towards perfume.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    About time. Too bad it is (a) too late and (b) right now much ado about nothing.
    Currently wearing: Classic Chypre by Esteban

  19. #19

    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    Thanks for the link, Rüssel.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rüssel View Post
    The comment section is surprisingly hostile towards perfume.
    Not so surprising. Every time there’s a perfume article in the MSM those who want to ban perfme use it to further their cause.


    Quote Originally Posted by Parfum de peau View Post
    About time. Too bad it is (a) too late and (b) right now much ado about nothing.
    I couldn’t agree more. The horse left the barn years ago. IFRA members are mostly the multinationals with proprietary aromachemicals. they have pretty much succeeded in banning universally available ingredients.
    ​"It was foolish of her not to have bought a larger bottle."

    Dorothy Eden, The Time of the Dragon

  20. #20

    Default Re: Fragrance creators are sniffing at increased regulations

    Yea those comments are wild! I blame beast mode designer scents for giving the general public the impression that fragrances have an acrid irritating smell.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rüssel View Post
    The comment section is surprisingly hostile towards perfume.




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