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  1. #31
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    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Quote Originally Posted by GoldWineMemories View Post
    I've never heard of this before. This is actually really curious. I've wondered if Frederic Malle's Superstitious actually has any flower oils in it, because on the USA website is says it contains Turkish Rose, and Egyptian Jasmine. Anyone who knows anything about perfumery knows all ingredient claims are usually smoke and mirrors. Interesting, because on the French website it makes absolutely no claim at all about containing rose or jasmine, much less the providence of said flowers. I go to Une Fleur de Cassie, and both ad reads for the USA & French site claim to use jasmine absolute. Huh.
    I'm of the opinion that these are real. It would be pushing the law to misadvertise in this manner, opening them to false advertising and, in the US, the potential of litigation. Possibly.

    The likely explanation, and I apply this to the likes of Creed as well and many other houses, is that the use of certain naturals is small enough to be insignificant while still factually true. Perhaps it's not insignificant to a perfumer's sense - perhaps it really does add to the aroma, to round out a floral accord, for instance, above and beyond what more common and inexpensive synthetics can bring. But when they lis 'Turkish Rose', for instance, any rose 'note' is not just going to be comprised of that. The real Turkish Rose extract may in fact be a tiny percentage of what goes in to creating the rose note. So it's not false advertising, it really does contain the real thing.
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  2. #32
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    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    MFK Oud extrait but it's likely not the authentic stuff.
    Yep, he's basically as good as admitted that his fragrances are synthetic. If it does use natural ingredients then, as above, they're in tiny amounts. That doesn't detract from his genius as a perfumer.

    Case in point: one of his Ouds (I forget which) uses the exact same oud aromachemical one can find in Layton Exclusif. Exactly the same. There's no way it's real oud, the scent is identical, like smelling the Tuscan Leather accord in other fragrances - it's impossible not to notice what it is and how similar it is.
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  3. #33
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    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Quote Originally Posted by slpfrsly View Post
    Forget note lists, your nose is right. Rose is the strongest note in the scent to my nose. The fact it has "raspberry" as well is neither here nor there, rose is used to create a sweet-floral accord on top of the oud. It's the epitome of a western designer oud-rose, taking what MFK did and making it even more pleasing to your average customer. It's a good fragrance in my opinion, and only gets better when you just forget about the notes and treat it as its own thing. But it 100% has rose in it haha.
    Yeah, I'd have to completely re-wire my senses if there wasn't rose. Now, I can be convinced that there are certain accords that might trick me into thinking it's rose and I'm open to that. That's quite interesting though with Andy's claim that to create a raspberry accord, rose absolute may be used. That would be quite ironic if the raspberry is giving me rose vibes and rose is used to create that raspberry accord.
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  4. #34
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    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Quote Originally Posted by deltasun View Post
    Yeah, I'd have to completely re-wire my senses if there wasn't rose. Now, I can be convinced that there are certain accords that might trick me into thinking it's rose and I'm open to that. That's quite interesting though with Andy's claim that to create a raspberry accord, rose absolute may be used. That would be quite ironic if the raspberry is giving me rose vibes and rose is used to create that raspberry accord.
    Yeah, I'm not sure about the claims that raspberry comes from rose. That seems chemically illiterate given that it's going to be a synthetic compound. No doubt there are many ingredients that go in to making individual notes, so it's entirely probably that rose goes towards a raspberry accord or 'note'. Still, I would assume that this is the wrong way to think about perfumery as so much of it is synthetic chemistry and therefore not using 'real' absolutes, extracts and so on.

    I found this. I had heard that 'the Universe smells of raspberry' before.

    Screenshot_2021-05-09 The-Chemistry-of-Raspberries pdf.jpg

    http://www.compoundchem.com/wp-conte...aspberries.pdf

    It seems to suggest that you can produce raspberry extract but, due to the obvious, perfumery uses synthetic equivalents.

    Either way, definitely rose in Ombre Nomade. Saffron too. Its primary accord is floral with the raspberry offering sweetness as it does in so many modern leather fragrances. It's a good fragrance. If it wasn't so expensive I'd consider buying it but it's beyond what I'd pay for a full bottle.
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  5. #35

    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    In the end, whether your senses are playing tricks on you or not, if you smell rose in it, then you smell rose. Period. I'm not smelling it so as far as I'm concerned the list is accurate

    I think the takeaway for the topic starter is that just looking for rose-less ouds may not be enough. There may be other combinations he may want to exclude

  6. #36
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    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Quote Originally Posted by D.McDutchface View Post
    In the end, whether your senses are playing tricks on you or not, if you smell rose in it, then you smell rose. Period. I'm not smelling it so as far as I'm concerned the list is accurate

    I think the takeaway for the topic starter is that just looking for rose-less ouds may not be enough. There may be other combinations he may want to exclude
    Good point! In the end, the OP is asking for Oud fragrances with no rose. So, even if it's raspberry, but if it gives one the impression of rose, it doesn't meet the OP's ask.
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  7. #37

    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Floris Leather Oud. No rose, but there are other florals in play.

  8. #38

    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Quote Originally Posted by deltasun View Post
    Good point! In the end, the OP is asking for Oud fragrances with no rose. So, even if it's raspberry, but if it gives one the impression of rose, it doesn't meet the OP's ask.
    Yes, we were hijacking his topic, for which I apologize Regardless, Ombre Nomade is expensive enough to not buy it blind so he would be able to decide whether he senses rose or not.

    Another one I forgot to mention, and in Louis Vuitton's "cheap", or rather, "not as expensive" line: Nouveau Monde.

  9. #39
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    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Shams Oud Memo, Opus XI Amouage
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  10. #40

    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Quote Originally Posted by D.McDutchface View Post
    Another one I forgot to mention, and in Louis Vuitton's "cheap", or rather, "not as expensive" line: Nouveau Monde.
    I see people say all the time that they get rose in Nouveau Monde, too, which I totally don't understand.

  11. #41
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    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Quote Originally Posted by D.McDutchface View Post
    In the end, whether your senses are playing tricks on you or not, if you smell rose in it, then you smell rose. Period. I'm not smelling it so as far as I'm concerned the list is accurate

    I think the takeaway for the topic starter is that just looking for rose-less ouds may not be enough. There may be other combinations he may want to exclude
    That's totally understandable but for me, the irony is that Ombre Nomade is far more of a rose + floral fragrance than it is an oud fragrance, so it's almost the exact inverse of what the topic if seeking.

    I think the fact that 'oud' is such a wide-ranging 'note', going from disgusting faecal cheesey-shit in the real Indian variety all the way to rubbery cypriol in its impressionistic form, makes this topic a tricky one to answer.
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  12. #42
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    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Quote Originally Posted by D.McDutchface View Post
    Yes, we were hijacking his topic, for which I apologize Regardless, Ombre Nomade is expensive enough to not buy it blind so he would be able to decide whether he senses rose or not.

    Another one I forgot to mention, and in Louis Vuitton's "cheap", or rather, "not as expensive" line: Nouveau Monde.
    Not your fault, it was a good discussion. And yes, Nouveau Monde is a good one. I get a lot of the cacao, in addition to the oud/leather.
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  13. #43
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    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Robert Piguet Oud Divin: Oud, Coffee Bean(Espresso), Tonka, Vetiver, & Patchouli that gives off a cacao effect.
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  14. #44

    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Ombré Nomade is a massive rose to me as well, just as prominent as the Oud accord on top of vanilla, Noveau Monde is stripped of Rose version which is more leathery and less sweet.

  15. #45

    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Quote Originally Posted by slpfrsly View Post
    Yep, he's basically as good as admitted that his fragrances are synthetic. If it does use natural ingredients then, as above, they're in tiny amounts. That doesn't detract from his genius as a perfumer.
    That's what I thought. Yes some of his releases do smell good.
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  16. #46
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    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Kilian Pure Oud
    Or any pure oud oil / attars, many of which come without rose.
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  17. #47

    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Al Haramain's Obsessive Oudh - hefty amount of authentic Cambodian Oud. Also musk and amber. Starts out funky. Ends divinely.

    Al Haramain's Ode of Oudh - this is well-blended, very classy stuff without a hint of funk. Smaller bottles and more expensive than the other stuff in their Prestige line, it may very well be discontinued. Has one of the best licorice/anise type notes I've smelled.

    Arabian Oud's Blue Oud - Cambodian Oud, Indian Oud and Egyptian Blue Musk. Big doses of authentic oud in this.

    Arabian Oud's Aqua Royal Oud - hard to find - real oud, mixed with ambergris and musk. This is the cheapest of the three. The others are going to cost $$$, but are in 100ml bottles though Blue Oud comes with an additional 12ml Attar. It's available at a hefty discount on Arabian Oud's USA website until Ramadan's over, this coming Wednesday (May 12th.)
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  18. #48
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    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Mandarava by Parfum’s Prissana.

    It’s spicy incense laden florals, animalic and musky on a bed of real Oud. Absolutely stunning. Feels warm and “red”. Slightly cashmere like texture. Almost furry in a way. It’s perfectly balanced and not in any way unwearable.

    Grandenia by Areej le Dore

    Citrusy white florals and lemon on a bed of Thai Oud and incense. Really fantastic and vintage leaning. Slightly sweet with a GORGEOUS patchouli note.

    Amber Cologne by Bortnikoff

    Stunning white florals, bitter citrus and grapefruit and a whole ton of ambergris. There’s some Oud in the base that adds depth to the entire fragrance. Mostly natural. Overall this is super crowd pleasing and enjoyable. Perfect for summer.

    Paradise Tropical by Dixit and Zak

    Excellent citrusy incense laden Oud and sandalwood fragrance. Leans slightly medicinal but it’s entirely natural. The Oud is stunning. Lasts 14 hours on my skin. This is really fun because it’s versatile and easy to wear. Doesn’t require fancy clothes nor does it take itself too seriously. Ultimately the majority of this fragrance is a wonderful citrusy Thai Oud and frankincense drydown with a musky sandalwood closing it all out. Very creamy and spicy at times.
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  19. #49

    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Swedish Wood - Pana Dora
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  20. #50

    Default Re: Your favorite oud with no rose

    Russian Oud. An abolute gem though not worth harvesting organs for it given the current price point.
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