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  1. #1
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    Default in praise of Dune by Dior

    The feminine, not the Pour Homme. Wow, this is phenomenal. And it's not feminine at all, it is very unisex.

    Who else is a huge fan of Dune?

    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

  2. #2

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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    I recall a dusty, almost Hershey-chocolate drydown that's quite somber and makes it a rather interesting one. (As a European, Hershey chocolate tastes strange to me...)

    cacio

  3. #3
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Bought the Parfum for my wife not too long ago.
    I think it’s gorgeous.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by thrilledchilled View Post
    Who else is a huge fan of Dune?
    *raises both hands high*

    A truly sui generis perfume. I know of nothing else even similar. But even loving it as I do, I can understand some peoples' objections. Turin calls it "the bleakest beauty in all of perfumery", which seems apt to me, and I understand Cacio's association with Hershey's chocolate. As an American, once you grow out of a childhood association with Hershey's as THE taste of chocolate and realize how superior the European product is, it's easy to see Hershey's viewed as sour or even vomitous in smell -- but somehow that adds to the mystique of Dune.

    But I think what I find most attractive in Dune is the brume note; it gives it a sort of garrigue or Mediterranean feel*. And it's so light on its feet, like it's dancing across your skin.

    PS: I notice your photo is of the vintage EDT splash bottle with the crystal stopper. For me, that's the best version.

    *Apparently there was once a Dune flanker called "brume", but I've only seen photos, never tried it or heard from anyone who has.

    DuneBrumeParfumee_AlcoholFreeBodySpray.jpg
    Last edited by Cook.bot; 7th June 2021 at 10:56 PM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    I agree with you on the phenomenal part - the vintage was and is. It was amazing mossy, sandalwood, florals, benzoin, maybe freesia and rosewood but all dirty and all sexy - you name it.
    It was loud and bombastic but it always felt femme to me as I associated with a group of girls I knew. Like goth before goth, a ballerina with black lippy and Doc Martens to boot.

    I know many others will disagree on this and say it is unisex but it’s how I felt and feel about it. No shade thrown. Enjoy what you enjoy.

    It’s a rare 10/10 for me though (but only in vintage).
    Currently enjoying

    Bois du Portugal / Aventus / Pour Monsieur / Boss Number One (current)
    Sagamore (vintage) / Drakkar Noir / Bright Neroli / Cool Water (vintage)
    Patrick / Allure Homme / Jazz Club / YSL Pour Homme HC


  6. #6
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Sorry, I should have mentioned that the Parfum I bought was vintage.....
    Although I think it was only ever vintage

  7. #7

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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    The reference to Hershey chocolate, as well as Turin's remark about bleakness, are not intended to be objections-to the contrary. They are used to great effect.

    cacio

  8. #8
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    I am not sure how this is put together because its sum is so much greater than its parts. Astonishing.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    The reference to Hershey chocolate, as well as Turin's remark about bleakness, are not intended to be objections-to the contrary. They are used to great effect.
    Yes, I completely understand that. I just wanted to point out that most people are not going to interpret "bleak" or "Hershey's chcolate" as positive attributes. But within the context of Dune, they absolutely are.

  10. #10

    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    One of the best choices from a house that already stands out with numerous feminine and masculine masterpieces already, mainly but not exclusively vintage one.
    Also agreeing that Dune, including in its vintage version, can be quite unisex.

  11. #11

    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    *Apparently there was once a Dune flanker called "brume", but I've only seen photos, never tried it or heard from anyone who has.

    DuneBrumeParfumee_AlcoholFreeBodySpray.jpg
    I own this. It's junk that has little to do with the real Dune. It almost smells like a weak Allure knockoff.

  12. #12

    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    PXL_20210520_123626540.jpg

    Here's a pic of my little Dune family (excluding backups...of which there are many.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    6ADF4695-2854-4A9B-BD98-A88519DE4610.jpg

    Here’s the bottle I bought for my wife.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Dane View Post
    PXL_20210520_123626540.jpg

    Here's a pic of my little Dune family (excluding backups...of which there are many.
    Fantastic menagerie.
    FYI: I spray all fragrances on clothing, never on skin.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by AlanG View Post
    Here’s the bottle I bought for my wife.
    Ooo, a whole ounce of parfum. Yum.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dane View Post
    Here's a pic of my little Dune family (excluding backups...of which there are many.
    It's a pity that you hate that Brume Parfumee. I'd love a Dune that emphasizes the brume.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Ooo, a whole ounce of parfum. Yum.

    Yes. I got lucky with this one!

  17. #17

    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Cook.bot View Post
    Ooo, a whole ounce of parfum. Yum.




    It's a pity that you hate that Brume Parfumee. I'd love a Dune that emphasizes the brume.
    I'm not sure I'd recognize brume (broom?) if I smelled it.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by Dane View Post
    I'm not sure I'd recognize brume (broom?) if I smelled it.
    I just realized that I mistook the name on that product ("brume") to mean the Mediterranean shrub "broom" (genisteae), when they actually meant brume, the French word for "mist".

  19. #19
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    I love it and own a bottle of vintage EdT. I have received a compliment twice when wearing it (both times from men).

    I would LOVE to smell the Parfum.
    "A man has made at least a start on discovering the meaning of human life when he plants shade trees under which he knows full well he will never sit. "

    -- D. Elton Trueblood

  20. #20
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Hi folks—

    I am not familiar with Dune at all but yesterday I decided to test the sample that I have had for a while that I believe I received from a kind Basenoter (perhaps one of you?)...this:

    DDB8C1F5-857D-4F85-A12E-8E3C69A82434.jpeg

    I don’t want to spoil the Dune party but I’m wondering if anyone else gets an indelible woodiness from the drydown of this? Some form of synthetic sandalwood or rosewood is still strongly wafting from my skin a day later, even after a long bath and a scrub.

    Or perhaps my skin is blotter paper for woody aromachemicals.

  21. #21

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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    I guess what I perceive as gritty Hershey chocolate is what you call inedible woody.
    cacio

  22. #22

    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    I have the Brume version and prefer it to the original. It's also been branded 'Dune Sun' in the past. It's basically an alcohol free mist.

  23. #23

    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    If anyone's interested, I have a perfume textbook that says that 50% of Dune consist of Galaxolide (musk) and Hedione, with a significant amount of orris. The topnote has a large quantity of Stemone. Also present are the usual suspects - rose, jasmine, sandalwood, vanillin, and patchouli.

    This would relate to the 90s formula.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    I guess what I perceive as gritty Hershey chocolate is what you call inedible woody.
    cacio
    Hi Cacio, I really wanted to see if I could perceive the “gritty Hershey chocolate” because I was intrigued by your description but I don’t believe I did. Perhaps the chocolate appears earlier in the perfume’s evolution? I get the super persistent woody note in the very late drydown, even after a wash, so it is pretty much the only note left by that point.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dane View Post
    If anyone's interested, I have a perfume textbook that says that 50% of Dune consist of Galaxolide (musk) and Hedione, with a significant amount of orris. The topnote has a large quantity of Stemone. Also present are the usual suspects - rose, jasmine, sandalwood, vanillin, and patchouli.

    This would relate to the 90s formula.
    Interesting information Dane! I haven’t associated the persistent woody note that I am describing with Galaxolide before but it could be. I’ve never smelled Galaxolide straight but I always thought it was more of a clean laundry smelling musk.

    I may need to test Dune again.

  25. #25

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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    The Hershey chocolate character is indeed not regular chocolate-it's something more woody, acidic, somewhat gritty. But as said it's something quite personal.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Interesting information Dane! I haven’t associated the persistent woody note that I am describing with Galaxolide before but it could be. I’ve never smelled Galaxolide straight but I always thought it was more of a clean laundry smelling musk.
    Do you know the age of your bottle, Grayspoole? I don't detect anything like WACs in the base of mine. (I hate them too, though you might hate them even more than I. )

    I've owned 4 bottles of Dune, and I've tried to guarantee their age by either buying splash bottles with the stoppered necks or by following Dane's excellent advice to only buy when the box has a horizontal black band around the bottom. I've been happy with all my bottles.

  27. #27

    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Hi Cacio, I really wanted to see if I could perceive the “gritty Hershey chocolate” because I was intrigued by your description but I don’t believe I did. Perhaps the chocolate appears earlier in the perfume’s evolution? I get the super persistent woody note in the very late drydown, even after a wash, so it is pretty much the only note left by that point.



    Interesting information Dane! I haven’t associated the persistent woody note that I am describing with Galaxolide before but it could be. I’ve never smelled Galaxolide straight but I always thought it was more of a clean laundry smelling musk.

    I may need to test Dune again.
    You're correct that Galaxolide isn't what I would consider woody. I have a feeling that whatever sandalwood was used originally was amped up with other woody notes, and no doubt replaced the real sandalwood completely at some point.

    Edit - I forgot to mention that the chocolate effect, for me, comes from patchouli + iris. A similar accord can be found in Armani Prive's Iris Celadon.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    @Cook.bot—my sample is labeled 90’s Dune, source unidentified.

    I searched my notes and discovered that I actually began to explore Dune a year ago, with the same sample. Puzzled by it then, still puzzled by it now, but intrigued because Dune seems to have had such a decisive influence on so much modern perfumery.

    Wearing one small spray of Dune again, I’m assessing my sometimes peculiar reactions to certain modern ingredients (call them musks, call them woody aromachemicals, whatever). It may be a form of synaesthesia, but these modern musks/woods often feel textured to me, thick like rosin, sticky, sandy, and resinous, and give me a sense of stuffiness. I do see that other commentators discuss the evocation of olfactory sand in Dune, and link it to its beachiness. And Cacio thinks of “gritty Hershey chocolate.” Vintage perfumes feel oily/smooth in comparison...WHY???

    Still not getting chocolate or cocoa, alas. That cocoa-patchouli-iris thing also seems to characterize much modern perfumery.

    Dane has proposed that vintage Dune had a high concentration of galaxolide and thinks that the galaxolide was supported by woods:

    Quote Originally Posted by Dane
    You're correct that Galaxolide isn't what I would consider woody. I have a feeling that whatever sandalwood was used originally was amped up with other woody notes, and no doubt replaced the real sandalwood completely at some point.

    I now want to smell galaxolide straight and have some on its way to me. Chris Wall has a good overview of it, along with its use in the Grosjman accord.

    https://pellwall.com/shop/ingredient...xolide-50-ipm/

    And then there's this:


    http://www.whatwedoissecret.org/madebyblog/monoscent-g

  29. #29
    Common Lackey

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    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    @Cook.bot—my sample is labeled 90’s Dune, source unidentified.
    So almost certainly original formula, then.


    It may be a form of synaesthesia, but these modern musks/woods often feel textured to me, thick like rosin, sticky, sandy, and resinous, and give me a sense of stuffiness.
    Pool noodles!

    Still not getting chocolate or cocoa, alas. That cocoa-patchouli-iris thing also seems to characterize much modern perfumery.
    Yeah, I don't get the chocolate scent from Dune either. But quite a lot of people do.

    I now want to smell galaxolide straight and have some on its way to me. Chris Wall has a good overview of it, along with its use in the Grosjman accord.

    https://pellwall.com/shop/ingredient...xolide-50-ipm/
    That was interesting! And surprising to me, since I generally dislike anything with the Grosjman accord, including and especially Tresor. I wonder how much galaxolide is actually in Dune, and why it doesn't bother me there?

    Whoa, that's almost tempting. Undergirding your perfumes with galaxolide? When you receive yours, I hope you'll try that and report on it.

  30. #30

    Default Re: in praise of Dune by Dior

    ∆ All I know is that there is a lot (of Galaxolide). It's a masterful composition that can hide most of the ingredients and end up with a solid accord. I honestly can't pick out many notes - I just smell "Dune".

    Edit - I haven't been able to wear anything heavy lately, but I couldn't resist the tiniest spritz of my ole fav. One of the most beautiful aspects in the EDT is the slightest hint of lavender, almost fougere-like.

    Ok I'll try not to monopolize this thread, as I'm sure I have with every other Dune thread.
    Last edited by Dane; 20th June 2021 at 03:04 AM.




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