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  1. #1

    Default Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Hi

    I wanted to build an oakmoss fragrance, almost a soliflore if such a thing is possible. I'm not really sure what to use for the top. I'm looking to make something fairly demure, refreshing*, soothing and relaxing.

    *sometimes I feel like I want it to be rich and sensuous. Maybe I'll make two versions.

    Here's what I have in mind so far:

    Backbone of hedione and iso e super
    IFRA compliant oakmoss absolute
    Evernyl (possibly an overdose)
    Clary sage absolute
    Clearwood (has a mossy aspect to me)
    Tabanon (to boost the tobacco element of oakmoss)
    A touch of vetiver
    Tiny bit of coumarin
    Cashmeran velvet
    Musks - maybe habanolide, tonalide, ethylene brassylate, muscenone for a more sensuous version. Open to suggestions

    Experiments with these materials have been successful, but I'm struggling a bit with the top and mid. What might provide or compliment a mossy fragrance in the top and mid do we think?

    Vague ideas so far:

    Dihydromyrcenol (seems like a cop out)
    Benzyl salicylate
    Sclareolate
    Florol
    A touch of cypress EO
    Stemone? I don't have this
    Thyme EO
    Petitgrain

    On the subject of oakmoss, I have read in a couple of places including Pell Wall, that evernyl can be used in combination with ifra compliant oakmoss to give a truer oakmoss effect. Is that right? To me evernyl smells like the oakmoss, but with missing complexity, not the thing that is missing from the oakmoss itself.

    Does anyone know other ways of boosting oakmoss? Be interested to know.

    Thanks
    Andy

  2. #2

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Hi, i made this, posted a long time ago by a basenotes member. Smells pretty good. It is a good point to start a good mossy fragrance.

    Moss base

    325 Iso E Super
    145 Hedione
    70 Patchouli
    65 Ambrettolide
    50 Habanolide
    30 Beta Ionone
    30 Linalyl Acetate
    25 Bergamot 104 (Givaudan)
    25 Vertofix Coeur
    20 Evernyl
    15 Vetiverol
    115 Oakmoss Absolute 10%
    10 Cinnamon Leaf EO
    10 Coumarin
    10 Dihydromyrcenol
    10 Ambroxan
    10 Geraniol
    10 Musk Ketone 50%
    5 Vetiver
    5 Civet Absolute
    5 Miel Oliffac
    3 Citronellol
    2 Citral
    5 Vanillin 10%
    1000

  3. #3

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by German Pujol View Post
    Hi, i made this, posted a long time ago by a basenotes member. Smells pretty good. It is a good point to start a good mossy fragrance.

    Moss base

    325 Iso E Super
    145 Hedione
    70 Patchouli
    65 Ambrettolide
    50 Habanolide
    30 Beta Ionone
    30 Linalyl Acetate
    25 Bergamot 104 (Givaudan)
    25 Vertofix Coeur
    20 Evernyl
    15 Vetiverol
    115 Oakmoss Absolute 10%
    10 Cinnamon Leaf EO
    10 Coumarin
    10 Dihydromyrcenol
    10 Ambroxan
    10 Geraniol
    10 Musk Ketone 50%
    5 Vetiver
    5 Civet Absolute
    5 Miel Oliffac
    3 Citronellol
    2 Citral
    5 Vanillin 10%
    1000
    Ooh thanks! Looks nice. I don't have every single material, but a good number of them.

    Vanillin is a surprise...
    Andy

  4. #4

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Citrus top would be classic, but what about isobornyl acetate + theaspirane for a camphoraceous sweet fresh woody minty top & heart?

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    For the Oakmoss portion, I would recommend either Oakmoss Givco, or Oakmoss Firbest.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by mnitabach View Post
    Citrus top would be classic, but what about isobornyl acetate + theaspirane for a camphoraceous sweet fresh woody minty top & heart?
    I don't have either of those things, but that does indeed sound lovely!
    Andy

  7. #7

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    I'm just starting to learn how to use theaspirane, but isobornyl I've gotten to know pretty well. Because it is intrinsically balanced sweet & camphoraceous/woody, it can be used at very high doses as the core of a top. But it is also pretty powerful in low doses to add a nice camphoraceous woody facet to other top accords.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    I have been working on Montana pour homme, a classic mossy, spice, letheary fragrance, and this accord helps me. but, I do not finish formulating it.
    MONTANA POUR HOMME

    PATCHOULI 14
    TIMBEROL 0,7
    PICONIA 0,9
    CASHMERAN 3,6
    CEDRAMBER 2
    VERAMOSS 1,5
    OAK 50 % 8
    LADANO 25 2,4
    AMBROX 1,5
    RASPBERRY KETONE 0,3
    BETA IONONE 1,5
    IBQ Pure 0,6
    DIHIDRO BETA ION 0,3
    VAINILLIN 10 0,6
    KEPHALIS 3
    BACDANOL 0,9
    EBANOL 0,3
    AMBRETTOLIDE 0,3
    IES 3,6
    VELVIONE 0,3
    COUMARIN 0,5
    EXALTOLIDE 0,6
    OLIBANUM 0,6
    EUGENOL 0,9
    ISO EUGENOL 2,4
    LIRAL 7
    CINNAMON ACC 1,8
    ARMOISE 1,7
    CEDAR LEAVES 0,8
    SPRUCE 1,5
    LAVANDIN 8,2
    BORNEOL 0,7
    SAGE 1,8
    HEDIONE 12
    BENZYL SALICYLATE 0,7
    AMYL SALICILATE 1,4
    LILIAL 0,1
    LIMONENE 0,3
    NUTMEG 0,3
    PEPPER 0,8
    BERGAMOT 2
    VERDOX 2,1
    FLOROL 3,6
    CARIOPHYLENE 10% 1,8
    GARDENOL 0,3
    C10 0,6
    MNA 0,8
    C12 0,3
    ALLYL CAPROATE 10% 0,6

  9. #9

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Frank Saunders (from here) posted a free formula for a bombshell oakmoss base on my site which is really amazing - you might find something useful in that or the comments . . .

    1980s Powerhouse Oakmoss Base

    Here's a free fragrance formula which uses it:

    Tigerseye Fragrance

    Frank's notes on Tigerseye: To start, it opens with an intensely bright citrus note which features anise, petitgrain, and elemi tinged with spearmint. This unique and beautiful opening blends into a bright woody heart with notes of patchouli, geranium, cedar, tonka bean, and violet leaf. lastly, it settles into a powdery smooth amber base consisting of tobacco, oud, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver and a healthy dose of musks, both animalic (civet) and sensual skin notes (romandolide).
    Formulas for Fine Fragrances (including clones) and Bases
    Including: YSL M7, Patou Pour Homme Privé, Twilly, Aventus, Green Irish Tweed, Terre d’Hermés, Chanel Coromandel, and More.
    Currently wearing: V / Visa by Robert Piguet

  10. #10

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by German Pujol View Post
    I have been working on Montana pour homme, a classic mossy, spice, letheary fragrance, and this accord helps me. but, I do not finish formulating it.
    MONTANA POUR HOMME

    PATCHOULI 14
    TIMBEROL 0,7
    PICONIA 0,9
    CASHMERAN 3,6
    CEDRAMBER 2
    VERAMOSS 1,5
    OAK 50 % 8
    LADANO 25 2,4
    AMBROX 1,5
    RASPBERRY KETONE 0,3
    BETA IONONE 1,5
    IBQ Pure 0,6
    DIHIDRO BETA ION 0,3
    VAINILLIN 10 0,6
    KEPHALIS 3
    BACDANOL 0,9
    EBANOL 0,3
    AMBRETTOLIDE 0,3
    IES 3,6
    VELVIONE 0,3
    COUMARIN 0,5
    EXALTOLIDE 0,6
    OLIBANUM 0,6
    EUGENOL 0,9
    ISO EUGENOL 2,4
    LIRAL 7
    CINNAMON ACC 1,8
    ARMOISE 1,7
    CEDAR LEAVES 0,8
    SPRUCE 1,5
    LAVANDIN 8,2
    BORNEOL 0,7
    SAGE 1,8
    HEDIONE 12
    BENZYL SALICYLATE 0,7
    AMYL SALICILATE 1,4
    LILIAL 0,1
    LIMONENE 0,3
    NUTMEG 0,3
    PEPPER 0,8
    BERGAMOT 2
    VERDOX 2,1
    FLOROL 3,6
    CARIOPHYLENE 10% 1,8
    GARDENOL 0,3
    C10 0,6
    MNA 0,8
    C12 0,3
    ALLYL CAPROATE 10% 0,6
    I have two Claude Montana "Homme" vintage frags: Montana Parfum d'Homme (1989; sold in red box) & Montana Homme (2001; sold in blue box). I think your formula is aimed at the former?

  11. #11

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    yes mnitabach, the first, the classic red box. I'm very obsessed and every time I want to improve it, I get further away

  12. #12
    Basenotes Junkie Casper_grassy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    If you're making a base I'd look into using "sarriette base firmenich", like most green things, it's strong as hell and pairs great.

    Do some research on a mousse de saxe accord.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by German Pujol View Post
    yes mnitabach, the first, the classic red box. I'm very obsessed and every time I want to improve it, I get further away
    Cool! I like the classic red box a lot better than the blue.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by mnitabach View Post
    I have Montana Parfum d'Homme (1989; sold in red box)
    I don't think I've tried this... Looked on ebay, nearly all of the bottles there are in a red box... is this not the right red box then?
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by German Pujol View Post
    yes mnitabach, the first, the classic red box. I'm very obsessed and every time I want to improve it, I get further away
    Just want to confirm that "ladano" is labdanum? Also, any sense for possible substitutions of verdox & allyl caproate? Otherwise, I've got everything on hand to try this!

    ETA: Oh, also "Oak" is oakmoss?

  16. #16

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    I don't think I've tried this... Looked on ebay, nearly all of the bottles there are in a red box... is this not the right red box then?
    There's Montana frags w "Homme" in the official name in red box & blue box, which are quite different frags. I think there is some confusion of ebay sellers about the correct naming of what they've got, but you can distinguish between the red box & blue box in their photos. I bought both on ebay. The blue box I bought from ebay user beautyboutique2020; the red box I bought from janinesjunk.

    ETA: And I don't want to 100% guarantee that the red box is the leathery chypre as formulated above. I'm not home w my collection to confirm.

  17. #17
    Basenotes Plus
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    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by mnitabach View Post
    Just want to confirm that "ladano" is labdanum? Also, any sense for possible substitutions of verdox & allyl caproate? Otherwise, I've got everything on hand to try this!

    ETA: Oh, also "Oak" is oakmoss?
    Allyl Caproate is at PSH as Allyl Heptoate (Allyl Heptanoate)
    Verdox is at PA
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by Casper_grassy View Post
    If you're making a base I'd look into using "sarriette base firmenich", like most green things, it's strong as hell and pairs great.

    Do some research on a mousse de saxe accord.
    Thank you. I read about the mousse de saxe accord a while ago and had forgotten about it. I will revisit that. I have IBQ and find it a challenge to work with.

    Will investigate sarriette too.
    Andy

  19. #19

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by jfrater View Post
    Frank Saunders (from here) posted a free formula for a bombshell oakmoss base on my site which is really amazing - you might find something useful in that or the comments . . .

    1980s Powerhouse Oakmoss Base

    Here's a free fragrance formula which uses it:

    Tigerseye Fragrance

    Frank's notes on Tigerseye: To start, it opens with an intensely bright citrus note which features anise, petitgrain, and elemi tinged with spearmint. This unique and beautiful opening blends into a bright woody heart with notes of patchouli, geranium, cedar, tonka bean, and violet leaf. lastly, it settles into a powdery smooth amber base consisting of tobacco, oud, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver and a healthy dose of musks, both animalic (civet) and sensual skin notes (romandolide).
    Cheers! Sounds fabulous.

    I just got an old (early 90s i think) bottle of Quorum. I'm getting into these old school scents a bit.
    Andy

  20. #20

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Allyl Caproate is at PSH as Allyl Heptoate (Allyl Heptanoate)
    Verdox is at PA
    There seems to be some ambiguity whether allyl caproate is allyl hexanoate vs allyl heptanoate?

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by mnitabach View Post
    There seems to be some ambiguity whether allyl caproate is allyl hexanoate vs allyl heptanoate?
    Yes, the caproate is the same as the Heptanoate/heptoate.
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    In addition to Our own PK line, we make Custom Bespoke Perfumes, perfumes for Entrepreneurs needing scents for perfumes or products, Custom Wedding Perfumes, and even Special Event Perfumes.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    Yes, the caproate is the same as the Heptanoate/heptoate.
    Pell Wall is a selling allyl hexanoate as allyl caproate tho?

    https://pellwall.com/shop/ingredient...lyl-hexanoate/

    As is PA:

    https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com...-caproate.aspx

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by Yuri-G View Post
    Cheers! Sounds fabulous.

    I just got an old (early 90s i think) bottle of Quorum. I'm getting into these old school scents a bit.
    Wow... Same here! I picked up a bottle of Quorum as well. TBH it smells nothing like I remember it smelling,

  24. #24

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by WestOzDave View Post
    Wow... Same here! I picked up a bottle of Quorum as well. TBH it smells nothing like I remember it smelling,
    Is yours an old batch? Apparently it got reformulated like lots of things. I don't remember it from the time but wanted to find a pre-IFRA fragrance with a healthy dose of oakmoss. It's not exactly what I was expecting either. It's more mellow (i wondered if that's down to age) and very animalic. It lasts ages. I put some on my arm yesterday morning and can still smell it almost 24 hours later.
    Andy

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by Yuri-G View Post
    Is yours an old batch? Apparently it got reformulated like lots of things. I don't remember it from the time but wanted to find a pre-IFRA fragrance with a healthy dose of oakmoss. It's not exactly what I was expecting either. It's more mellow (i wondered if that's down to age) and very animalic. It lasts ages. I put some on my arm yesterday morning and can still smell it almost 24 hours later.
    Andy I picked up a new bottle as it spiked my curiosity when I saw it.... of what I remembered that it smelled like... and it smelt nothing like I remembered AT all! But you have inspired me to try and track down a Vintage bottle to compare because I thought I really loved it back then...

  26. #26

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by mnitabach View Post
    Just want to confirm that "ladano" is labdanum? Also, any sense for possible substitutions of verdox & allyl caproate? Otherwise, I've got everything on hand to try this!

    ETA: Oh, also "Oak" is oakmoss?
    oak is oakmoss 50% diluted
    ladano is labdanum 25% diluted

  27. #27

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by German Pujol View Post
    oak is oakmoss 50% diluted
    ladano is labdanum 25% diluted
    Thanks for clarifying!

  28. #28

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    I don't think I've tried this... Looked on ebay, nearly all of the bottles there are in a red box... is this not the right red box then?
    Paul, you should try it, look for a good clone, all them are the red box classic montana pour homme, 1989.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by mnitabach View Post
    Pell Wall is a selling allyl hexanoate as allyl caproate tho?

    https://pellwall.com/shop/ingredient...lyl-hexanoate/

    As is PA:

    https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com...-caproate.aspx
    Caproate is hexanoate, caprylate is octanoate.

    Enanthate is inbetween, the heptanoate, but I haven't myself seen in perfumery. Odd-number fatty acids are rarer biologically.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Oakmoss-based fragrance

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Roberts View Post
    Caproate is hexanoate, caprylate is octanoate.

    Enanthate is inbetween, the heptanoate, but I haven't myself seen in perfumery. Odd-number fatty acids are rarer biologically.
    https://perfumersupplyhouse.com/product/allyl-heptoate/

    This is heptanoate for sale at PSH, with relatively similar odor quality description as caproate/hexanoate.




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